IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!

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Greengenes707

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I 100% agree. Another thing I noticed from others saying their to expensive, is that they are actually a chunk of doe less expensive then other options based on the PPF & PPFD per watt & dollar. From what I see it takes about 660 watts of another light to compete or about $1500, ($500 more then I paid). Plus they are the first company to use top-bin Cree & still the only company employing the enhanced spectrum through using top-bin Cree monochromes.
A51 has been using top bin cree(white and red) since before victor/amare made his screen name.
 

bggrass

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3636699
I 100% agree. Another thing I noticed from others saying their to expensive, is that they are actually a chunk of doe less expensive then other options based on the PPF & PPFD per watt & dollar. From what I see it takes about 660 watts of another light to compete or about $1500, ($500 more then I paid). Plus they are the first company to use top-bin Cree & still the only company employing the enhanced spectrum through using Cree monochromes. This isn't advertising & I don't understand why when someone says they like this light some poeple jump all over it with hate. This is the thread for those who are seeking such info. No?View attachment 3636699Its no secret & growers should know.
Where does it say which bin cobs are inside the amares?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
O.k My company is already testing the COB two years.COB Cree CXB 3570,3590,Vero 29,Vero 18 and Citizen.Blend different color temperatures,color blue, orange, red IR ....
After two years we found,that simplicity is power.Best results CXB3590 and Vero 29 + photo red.
Other colors are unnecessary.Result 1.7 g / watt.
You mean Cree CXB 3070... not 3570. Ya thats not suspicious at all
 

flexy123

Well-Known Member
MARSHYDRO 2pcs Reflector96 LED Grow Light Flower Veg in a 5 x 5 area will these work
Yeah! Marshydro == bestest Led in World! Why? Because if one LED goes out, all others not! Absolutely AHHH-MAZING!!!

/S Just joking here. Careful territory mentioning the name Marshydro here in this forum :)
 

flexy123

Well-Known Member
What is the difference between a cxb3590 @ 1750mA & and cxb3070@1400mA ?

Im looking at these on alibaba and i really like 450 watts rather then 540 watts. ( 30x30 inch table).

450 watt version cxb3070
540 watt version cxb3590

Im curious is there a HUGE difference between cxb3590 and cxb 3070 ?

Total newb here.
It is my understanding that there really is NOT much difference when you run both COBs medium at say, 1400mA. It's a while ago but I vaguely remember even someone in a thread stating the older CXB3070 more efficient. CXB3590 (IMHO, and I am not an expert by a long-shot!) make more sense driven coarser, like at 1750mA....but if you end up driven them at 1400mA, 50W per COB there is no significant difference (mind you: SIGNIFICANT) between those COBS. And a fixture with 3070s would be a lot cheaper, also the driver and driver availability. Just my $0.02. Pros feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

Some while ago I got a fixture with 4xCXB3590 and 1750mA driver, and I feel I could have saved some good money and basically a light on par just with CXB3070 and a 1450mA driver.
 

Hybridway

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O.k My company is already testing the COB two years.COB Cree CXB 3570,3590,Vero 29,Vero 18 and Citizen.Blend different color temperatures,color blue, orange, red IR ....
After two years we found,that simplicity is power.Best results CXB3590 and Vero 29 + photo red.
Other colors are unnecessary.Result 1.7 g / watt.
Great job! Props! What is your company called? It's good that you're testing the colors & I've seen others get good results with just a Kelvin temp. I am in no way saying otherwise. That's cool n all but different reasons here. I like that the Monos on the Amare allow one to have a veg or flower mode.
BML got 2+ GPW w/ their Grow-Max spectrum of only R+B. But that doesn't mean the plants did all they could. Ex: Photomorphogenesis & Photoperiodism. That's why Fluence openly admits to the problems with such spectrum.
I'm all about growing w/ Kelvin temps. (I believe that's the way to go) I also like the fact that they offer the enhanced spectrum. I believe the plants are reaching their maximum potential. I judge this by being an HPS grower & seeing them lacking but still putting out a lb. + a plant. There Spectrum runs from 32-36k with a very broad & full graph. But to each his own. All I'm saying is I think they are a good company with great service, warranty & products using top components. All I ask is that poeple here recognize these facts. Me, nor anyone else is knocking other lights, just stating we are very happy with ours. Honestly, I haven't finished flower with mine but I don't need to to be happy with my plants reactions.
These lights being less money then most per PPF, warranty, watt, using all the components that we like, offering full transperancy, being the first to openly disclose they are made for our POT, and being so easy to work with, I just don't get why anyone would knock them & say bad things to new growers. To me, Amare is our Freind. Why any different I'll never understand? Not one person has given me any legit reason. We're all growers & we all want the best we can for our hard earned money, so why not except this company whom has gone out on a ledge to except us? Other LED & NUTE companies seem to fear openly admitting they are made for our girls. Why would anyone hate on something so good?
BTW, there are many good companies & many Garbo. DavidP, I'm sure yours is great & if I owned one & liked it, I would share with others. I really like that your taking the time to do the testing! That's great! Keep up the good work & I hope to see your products soon. I wish you nothing but luck in your future endevours.
I will read back in my e-mails w/ Victor & find the exact Bins. They do not state some things on the web-site but I have all the info. & will be happy to share. PPF & PPFD is some of the highest out that o can find.
Sorry so long.
We're all on the same team folks!
 

Where am I

Well-Known Member
Stop doing advertising on the best light!There will not do good business.The local members want to build their light.My company also manufactures light on contract in the Czech Republic and I do not write that we are the best.We test COB chips for 2 years and I have a lot of such photos.
How is that advertising? I bought a product and posted pics of my results. Is it wrong to share a positive experience with a product that I purchased and have used for sometime with excellent results. I own a Jeep and got in a terrible accident. Guess what I purchased another Jeep. Why ? because the one that got totaled in the accident had close to 185,000 miles on it and saved my life. It is the same thing. Here is the title of the Journal...

IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!

I am pretty sure that is what I did...
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
I am getting way more explosive growth from mine then I do from 600-1000 watt HPS. I believe I owe this to the spectrum & quality of my Amare. I am also trying to share my experience unbiasedly to others so they can see for themselves.
Also running the Hydropinics Hut which is also giving great results. Oh, & here's one for the critics, I'm running a SunCloak & it's way exceeding my expectations thus far.
Anyone who's says the theory of any one of these lights is trash is only contradicting themselves in one way or another & I just don't get it? At least give them a chance or see for yourselves. This is My Amare & Hydroponics Hut O.C. GG#4 grow. image.jpgI lost a half a plant in the corner. :( for the HH light. It was broken going in. image.jpgNever thought such little wattage could grow these 6 super sloppy monsters. O.C. GG#4 in the SunCloak 4416image.jpg
 
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Hybridway

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Hybridway,

What kind of temps are you getting?
Well, it's hard to say because I never did an actual test with recorded findings on each light alone. The SunCloak seems to put out the least amount of heat. The Hydroponics Hut gets pretty warm but the company claims their lights do not put out a heat signature. Not hot to the touch, just raises the room temp. The Amare puts out less heat then the HH I believe.
When my AC shit the bed, the room hit 90• with all three lights going (1800 watts). That's not to bad to me after running 7,700 watts of HPS, floresents, & some LED (homeowner) in another room.
My small AC handles it NP. I'm liking this LED growing. About to order a few more SE-450's.
I really want to get the Amare Pro-9. It runs CXB-3590's & 10 watt Monochromes. Different build style then the 450. It's 900 watts as all their lights are true wattage. They offer an in-line Duct version w/ a Y-splitter so it can be duct out just like an HPS hood. But I'll need high ceilings for that & have a room in the making. It's not on their web-site but they sent me all the info & a picture. Pretty bad-ass. I found that Amares always upgrading to the newest tech & moulding their lights specifically to the growers needs. I don't need to finish flower with the SE-450 to know I want more. Very happy!
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Well I have done exactly what you have said and bought several different brand lights and used them. I now have three different AMARE lights. What's that saying a picture is worth a thousand words? Buy whatever you want it's your money and spend it how ever you want. I've already been there and done that...I have had my SS-260 since 6/17/14 and am on my 7 th grow with it.....


View attachment 3635599 View attachment 3635601
Nice! I am running different lights to & did tons of research on them & many others too. Feel free to stop by my thread anytime & post pictures of your results.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Trying to understand ANSI color bin information and if it is even worth my time. The ANSI color "bins" appear to be broken into 4 quadrants but I am having trouble figuring out where these align with the various bin codes (1AO,1BO,1CO...5BO, 5DO,.and..65F,57F). Noticing the XXF numbers align with color, does the F mean it is a 2 step color deviation on (Mcwhatever ellipse).

Guess more to the point as the ANSI color bin LEDs are cheaper for the same lumen output bins as the "easywhite" color bins whats the advantage/disadvantage for the ANSI color bins?
 
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