IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!

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David Pasta said:
Yes,I wrote wrong.CXA,CXB 3070
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Are you up for posting your results or findings with different colors added to white? I'm sure plenty of poeple would be interested & what kind of plants did you do these tests on? If you own a light company I'm sorry to say but if your trying to find out the best combination for a light you want to market, I feel that by the time you have it all figured out that technology will probobly change again & Cree or another company will have put out a COB with peaked r+b just for Hortricultural use & all that would have been for nothing. Good luck though.
For instance, not long after Amare built the SE-350 using CXA's they switched to CXB's when they came out shortly there after to stay I top of things.
 
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I'm building a fixture and have a couple of Qs.
basic info: 4x4tent, dtw coco, 3 x HLG-240h-c2100b running 3 vero 29s each

For dimming mean well shows using a 100k pot on each driver is ok, other sources say I need a resistor as well as the pot. Is the resistor helpful?

The driver data sheet says only 2 drivers per 16 amp breaker. I have a 15a and a 20a 120v circuit, would the 20a be safe with 3 drivers?

And for timers, 15a reg timer be ok? Should I use a 40a metal box timer, or contactor?

Thanks in advance for the help and I apologize if these are rudimentary questions.
 
2100 ist very high.1000-1400 it is the best solution.
Hybridway said:
Are you up for posting your results or findings with different colors added to white? I'm sure plenty of poeple would be interested & what kind of plants did you do these tests on? If you own a light company I'm sorry to say but if your trying to find out the best combination for a light you want to market, I feel that by the time you have it all figured out that technology will probobly change again & Cree or another company will have put out a COB with peaked r+b just for Hortricultural use & all that would have been for nothing. Good luck though.
For instance, not long after Amare built the SE-350 using CXA's they switched to CXB's when they came out shortly there after to stay I top of things.
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http://ledideal.cz/www/led-grow-vero29/ We do light by customer.Cree CXB 3590 CXB3590-0000-00N0HCD35H and Bridgelux Vero 29 BXRC-35E10KO-L-23 he was not seen gram/watt.(aero systém)1,5-1,7 g/watt
Citizen COB CLU058-1825C4-353H5K2 aero systém 1,3-1,4 g/watt.All COB 1050mA.
Vero 29 + red Cree 3w - Spider Vero 29 320W (aero system) yield 590gram!
 
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Someone archive \ close this thread already. A 440 page 3 year old post that keeps getting updated is like living necro. Who really wants to try and catch up by giving it a read? Lets keep these posts short and relevant. Piss poor forum administration imo.

/awaiting lashback for discussing truth.
 
fjbudboy said:
I'm building a fixture and have a couple of Qs.
basic info: 4x4tent, dtw coco, 3 x HLG-240h-c2100b running 3 vero 29s each

For dimming mean well shows using a 100k pot on each driver is ok, other sources say I need a resistor as well as the pot. Is the resistor helpful?

The driver data sheet says only 2 drivers per 16 amp breaker. I have a 15a and a 20a 120v circuit, would the 20a be safe with 3 drivers?

And for timers, 15a reg timer be ok? Should I use a 40a metal box timer, or contactor?

Thanks in advance for the help and I apologize if these are rudimentary questions.
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thats a good question man,i think it might have to do with the inrush current being 7.5 amps but not really sure.i would assume you could safely run 5 drivers off the 16amp breaker with 20% to spare because they only use 2.5 amps @120v but i see what your talking about in the mean well data sheet.maybe @Growmau5 @Greengenes707 @VegasWinner will chime in cause these guys have experience running multiple drivers. i know if it was hid ballasts it would be no problem at those amperages to run at least 4 per breaker
 
MasterpieceNutes said:
Someone archive \ close this thread already. A 440 page 3 year old post that keeps getting updated is like living necro. Who really wants to try and catch up by giving it a read? Lets keep these posts short and relevant. Piss poor forum administration imo.

/awaiting lashback for discussing truth.
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Hopefully they close your account instead, it would make alot more sense. This thread is here so the forum doesn't get clogged up with every single person starting their own thread asking the same damn question 1000 times. If you can't understand why this thread exists you need to stop drinking the bong water.
 
MasterpieceNutes said:
Someone archive \ close this thread already. A 440 page 3 year old post that keeps getting updated is like living necro. Who really wants to try and catch up by giving it a read? Lets keep these posts short and relevant. Piss poor forum administration imo.

/awaiting lashback for discussing truth.
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why just start reading from the latest posted.
 
SSGrower said:
Trying to understand ANSI color bin information and if it is even worth my time. The ANSI color "bins" appear to be broken into 4 quadrants but I am having trouble figuring out where these align with the various bin codes (1AO,1BO,1CO...5BO, 5DO,.and..65F,57F). Noticing the XXF numbers align with color, does the F mean it is a 2 step color deviation on (Mcwhatever ellipse).

Guess more to the point as the ANSI color bin LEDs are cheaper for the same lumen output bins as the "easywhite" color bins whats the advantage/disadvantage for the ANSI color bins?
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So this question either got buried on the last page, it's too technical for a noob to understand or what, why would I think I'm the only person who sees this?? I know there is enough knowledge base here to answer it and I haven't yet been able to find an real references to the ANSI white balance standard.
 
sixstring2112 said:
thats a good question man,i think it might have to do with the inrush current being 7.5 amps but not really sure.i would assume you could safely run 5 drivers off the 16amp breaker with 20% to spare because they only use 2.5 amps @120v but i see what your talking about in the mean well data sheet.maybe @Growmau5 @Greengenes707 @VegasWinner will chime in cause these guys have experience running multiple drivers. i know if it was hid ballasts it would be no problem at those amperages to run at least 4 per breaker
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I use1000k resistor to keep current from going to0
 
SSGrower said:
So this question either got buried on the last page, it's too technical for a noob to understand or what, why would I think I'm the only person who sees this?? I know there is enough knowledge base here to answer it and I haven't yet been able to find an real references to the ANSI white balance standard.
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A thanks to those that answered this in another thread I posted, but ANSI bins have more variance as they are wider than what would be deemed acceptable for various applications.
 
Danielson999 said:
Hopefully they close your account instead, it would make alot more sense. This thread is here so the forum doesn't get clogged up with every single person starting their own thread asking the same damn question 1000 times. If you can't understand why this thread exists you need to stop drinking the bong water.
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A couple FAQ's would fix what this 440 page monstrosity has become. Seriously, Growmaus has covered 99% of the stuff in this thread. I repeat, this 440 page is terribly inefficient. As a fellow LED user, surely you must concede this fact?!
 
Hi guys please can anybody help me what to choose for veg and bloom 5,6ft x 3,5ft room, which option would be more economical with high efficacy and g/w. I was considering 10x vero 29 v2 3000 or 3500k or 4x cxb 3590 CD 3500k bin. I would be very much thankful for every advice about the cobs and what driver/s would suit it well. I would like to leave 2 of these veros v29 v2 for mothers if the option would be vero, Or is the vero 18 best option for me ? Thank you guys
Thanks very much
 
MasterpieceNutes said:
A couple FAQ's would fix what this 440 page monstrosity has become. Seriously, Growmaus has covered 99% of the stuff in this thread. I repeat, this 440 page is terribly inefficient. As a fellow LED user, surely you must concede this fact?!
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This thread is incredibly efficient. A person asks a question, it gets answered. Can't beat that. It also makes surfing the forums even more efficient because it stops people from having to create new threads every time they want a question answered. FAQ's are useless because there are literally thousands of questions that get asked and they constantly change because technology changes.
 
MasterpieceNutes said:
Someone archive \ close this thread already. A 440 page 3 year old post that keeps getting updated is like living necro. Who really wants to try and catch up by giving it a read? Lets keep these posts short and relevant. Piss poor forum administration imo.

/awaiting lashback for discussing truth.
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If a thread hasn't degenerated into people calling each other nazi's after 440 pages then the OP has brought us a golden goose of a thread. Let it keep laying golden eggs.

And really who tries to catch up on a 440 page thread? That's silly.
 
yup i have found some good info in just the last few pages here.like others have said it probably cuts down on alot of silly one question threads popping up all the time.it wont stop em all though lol
 
I don't know if this was discussed here before, the topic is too long now to read everything from beggining.

Anyway, I wanted to asked if someone every tried these Cree COBs bulbs. Here it goes: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x6W-8X9...hash=item20f046bc1d:m:mOHNP9EYlqt1Z6Il-IoeFCQ

We don't know for fact if it is Cree or fake, but it is a COB and that's better than SMD bulbs. It is shipped from UK, so I would say there's a higher chance of being a decent product comparing to those shipped from China.
It says 1100-1300lm per 12w bulb.

In the end I would pay 35$ for 120w and 11000-13000 lumens. Comparing to the 3070 I like the ideia of these bulbs because it is cheaper, easier to install, doesn't require active cooling and since it has a GU10 base type can be used to many other aplications. The fact that it doesn't require a fan pulling air is a plus plus for me for reducing noise.

In terms of efficiency it is worse than the 3070 for sure, but the difference isn't that significant.
The most generally used 3070 (Z2 I guess) has a output of max 7400lm when pulling 74w. That's 100 lumens per watt. The Cree bulb has a max output of 1300lm and pulls 12w, that's 108 lumens per watt.
The 3070 can be driven softer reaching higher efficiency, but you got the point. I'm planning a 100-150w grow set up but I don't want to break the bank, I see these two possibilities:

2 x Cree 3070 driven at 1.4A pulls 100w - 150$
10x Cree bulb pulls 120w - 35$

Based on the information provided the light output seems similar.

Any thoughts about this?
 
Metacanna said:
I don't know if this was discussed here before, the topic is too long now to read everything from beggining.

Anyway, I wanted to asked if someone every tried these Cree COBs bulbs. Here it goes: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x6W-8X9...hash=item20f046bc1d:m:mOHNP9EYlqt1Z6Il-IoeFCQ

We don't know for fact if it is Cree or fake, but it is a COB and that's better than SMD bulbs. It is shipped from UK, so I would say there's a higher chance of being a decent product comparing to those shipped from China.
It says 1100-1300lm per 12w bulb.

In the end I would pay 35$ for 120w and 11000-13000 lumens. Comparing to the 3070 I like the ideia of these bulbs because it is cheaper, easier to install, doesn't require active cooling and since it has a GU10 base type can be used to many other aplications. The fact that it doesn't require a fan pulling air is a plus plus for me for reducing noise.

In terms of efficiency it is worse than the 3070 for sure, but the difference isn't that significant.
The most generally used 3070 (Z2 I guess) has a output of max 7400lm when pulling 74w. That's 100 lumens per watt. The Cree bulb has a max output of 1300lm and pulls 12w, that's 108 lumens per watt.
The 3070 can be driven softer reaching higher efficiency, but you got the point. I'm planning a 100-150w grow set up but I don't want to break the bank, I see these two possibilities:

2 x Cree 3070 driven at 1.4A pulls 100w - 150$
10x Cree bulb pulls 120w - 35$

Based on the information provided the light output seems similar.

Any thoughts about this?
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if you can build a cxb3070 light then do that, you will get higher efficiency and more light with less units.

the bins in the cree bulbs are probably not top bin. Additionally pay attention to the difference between "chip power" and actual wattage. and forever wonder if they are indeed cree chips.
 
What if these bulbs work well? I wonder if anyone here every tried on of these?

I understand the 3070 is a safe bet but I was willing to take the risk if I had a clue from someone.

Cree (?) Cob bulb
$_12.JPG
 
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I'm starting a new micro grow project in a 30x30x60cm tent and was wondering if anyone has experience on lighting for similar sized space? I've been considering Mars Hydro Reflector 48, but would prefer a whiter light, DIY isn't an option. The less vertical space the light takes the better, this kind of closes out all E27 LED Spots because the bulb+socket is just too high vertically. Suggestions?

Maybe something similar to this ->ONE<-?

[edit] I reconsidered DIY, I have 4 of these drivers, I would need the rest of the parts to make small wattage COB lights, could I find the parts from a single EU based site or do I have to source them from different stores? Maybe two lights in the 30x30x60 tent would be enough, four might be overkill?

 
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Psyphish said:
I'm starting a new micro grow project in a 30x30x60cm tent and was wondering if anyone has experience on lighting for similar sized space? I've been considering Mars Hydro Reflector 48, but would prefer a whiter light, DIY isn't an option. The less vertical space the light takes the better, this kind of closes out all E27 LED Spots because the bulb+socket is just too high vertically. Suggestions?

Maybe something similar to this ->ONE<-?
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I guess but it only gets 90lm/w. I have a shop-light made by UtilityTech that I got from Lowes that's about the same. Good supplemental light for my HPS but there's better.
I would stick to a Kelvin temp rather then a BS red n blue plant light.
2 whites w/ a r+b plant light in the middle would work well. I found that enhancing the white Kelvin temps w/ r+b works real well.
Deffinetly not Mars though. Anything but Mars.
 
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