I could use some help

LadyKJ

Member
That bottom one so far is sending out tons of small leaves. I am not seeing the balls the other one had and the tiny preflowers are the right shape for female so I am going to wait and see for sure. The smaller one today was showing very tiny tendrils -I think but I wear glasses so not sure if I was just being hopeful.

The friend that gave these to me has started clones for me from her plants just before they started to flower and said I can reveg hers if I want once she harvests. Hers are so much taller and nicer than mine in huge pots out in the country- Sigh.
 

Fishmon

Well-Known Member
I see no harm in flushing enough to check runoff ppm and ph. That doesn't look too bad. I've had downward clawing leaves on a couple plants one had over 3000 ppm and it appreciated the reset. The other one appeared nothing short of angry. I won't go into the details of the trauma I put it through but it limped across the finish line ok. Still consider myself a newb so a grain of salt is in order.
 

Synchronicity

Well-Known Member
Hang in there- you are watching them close and they look to be on track to me. If the gnats and thrips build up more then control may be needed. If they level off or get lower in number then it wont be an issue...............

Fungus gnats and thrips are an inconvenience but they are pretty easy to control in the grand scheme of things. they come and go more often than not without me doing anything but let the soil surface dry some and make sure of air flow indoors.............

Gnat larvae eat root hairs and you need huge numbers for significant damage. Thrips cycle in the soil but feed on the leaf surface as adults............ They also need the numbers to do much damage......

best regards
 

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LadyKJ

Member
That larger outside plant is definitely male :cry: and the other is female :grin:.

The one in the tent is finally showing tricomes but continues to have the larger leaves turn yellow. Last water I gave it some banana peel tea and some molasses but that didn't seem to make much difference. I am just hoping I can limp across the finish line. I moved the plant and raised the light a little in case it was getting too much light stress. I got a new light but am hesitant to change the light in case it makes things worse.

Considering trying to make a tincture from the male plant leaves to see if helps inflammation. Anyone have luck with that?IMG_4312.jpg
 

zombywolf

Well-Known Member
The only issue I see is that you are trying to grow a sativa inside under low light. You really need at least 40 watts per sq ft of light to do a sativa. You are just under a 5x5 area, which would normally need a 1000w light. 100% Indica or Indica/Sativa mixes can go 30w per sq ft. Light is #1 in importance, then genetics, then water/fertilizer. Bag seeds are tough, most are outside sativas. Female seeds today are cheap enough to be the only solution for a small garden.
 

LadyKJ

Member
the tent is 3X3 with the one light and I am runned a 100W led as well to try and get the lower parts that seem to be not fully under the light.

Is it the lower light levels that are making this grow slower?

I am definitely going to change up the light on the next run.
 

Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
The biggest and fastest growers usually end up male. Your light is adequate for about a 2x2 area. Just my opinion. I try to get as much as l can from my plant so l keep the light very close if possible. Guess that depends on light though. And environment.
 

zombywolf

Well-Known Member
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I am using it in a 3x3 tent over 1 plant about 12 inches from the top branch
Something else to remember is you are growing a probable pure sativa. Those can go 13-15 weeks in flower, so you cant compare the buds now to an 8-9 week strain. You cant change the light, but you can make sure they are fed for that long. Go get some Jobes Veg and Tomato sticks (cheap on Amazon) and put 3 or 4 in each pot. Continue to feed and water as you are doing. Still not sure I am a fan of that light unit. It says it compares to a 250w light for that space, I would never use anything below a 400w unit for that space with an HPS.
 

farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
Whats your humidity in the tent? High humidity or high nitrogen can cause the claw.. ( the shape of the leaves hooking)
But you might want to up your grow nute or nitrogen to green it up.
 

LadyKJ

Member
it has been around 40-55 % humidity the last few days. That clawing has been there a while and nothing so far has improved it. I was thinking it might have been light damage or heat when it was so hot a few weeks ago. The leaves have not recovered from that state since the temp got better. would the leaves recover if I figure out the issue?

Last water I gave it schultz cactis food (2-7-7) I had here because it was lower nitrogen since it is in flower. I have the regular plant food here as well but don't want to give anything with more nitrogen since I have not sorted if it has too much nitrogen.

I am going to get some of those spikes as suggested above in hopes it helps get me to the end without killing this plant.
 

zombywolf

Well-Known Member
Dont use a cactus formulation, you arent growing cactus. Use a normal flowering fert for veggies or flowers, there are decent ones available from Dr Earth or Espoma on the shelf. Mix in 1/4 cup of any of them into the soil every 3 weeks or so, plus the Jobe sticks. That will be enough fert to get you through to the end. The buds are airy and the leaves are funky mostly because of the low light.
 

Fishmon

Well-Known Member
She i
She is looking angry in these pics. Maybe I missed something but haven't seen any mention of ph. In my newbie opinion I'd put a couple gallons through there checking runoff ppm and ph and proceed from there.
Sorry for the double post. Not sure what happened
 

LadyKJ

Member
I checked the runoff this morning and it was 6.5 ph with water at 6.25 going in. Tap water that sits for 4 days with a start TDS of 175ish. the runoff has a TDS at 400. The plant had a horrible case of thrips and got really hot when I moved it home from my friends house about a month before it went to flower. I am still fighting fungus gnats :wall: I have tried the mosquitoes dunks in water and it didn't make much difference. I also did milk spray just before that so a small amount of the leaf marks were from that on the leaves since it doesn't get washed off and hope that would help somehow.

I got rid of the thrips with pyrethin spray because it was a week into flower when I figured out what they were and I am sure that did some of the leaf stress. I also put DE on the soil a number of times to see if that would help.

It is a very sad plant that is hanging there amazingly well given everything I put it through. I just hope I can help it limp over the finishline. I took clones from it that are rooted so I have another crack at it.

Stopping at the store today to get it some Jobe spikes.
 

LadyKJ

Member
I am running it with both lights on and a white standard LED light fixture on as well. I doubt it does much but it is there when I need to work on the plant and turn off the coloured light because it hurts my eyes.

I moved the light this am to try and get it to focus on the top colas. The plant seems to be slowly filling out despite the fact that it has so few leavesl left.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
You could be doing worse. :)

400ppm, assuming a scale that's .5 would put you at .8 EC which seems like maybe it's just underfed?

I've used Mosquito Bits (I think basically same product but in different form) and did find it effective. I ended up making 'tea' with the bits then straining them out and using that to water. Only took doing it once a week for 2 weeks to decimate the fungus gnats, I used the yellow sticky traps along with them to 'clean up' any stragglers.
 
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