How to choose an LED grow light?
I have been reading the forums for a long time now and have decided to put this post up in the hopes of helping LED grow light shoppers make an informed decision.
I have been using LED's for a little while now and have tried about 5 different kinds, from "brand names" to unknown. I even began importing my favourite ones for friends but I am not here to sell any. This is strictly for you to know what to look for before you put up any $$. I'm not going into too much detail at this time, this is simply a starting place. If you have any detailed questions feel free to ask or message me.
First thing I look for. What is the wattage of the LED chip.
THE CHIP:
I am not a fan of any led using less then a 3w chip. A TRUE 3w led chip, not one consisting of 3 1w leds. A good 3w chip from Cree, Epistar or Bridgelux will offer the quality I will be looking for. Bridgelux only makes blue/white spectrum at this time.
5w chips are on the way and I believe will be the future of LED growing but I do not think there has been enough testing and optimizing yet. Give it another year for them to work out the bugs.
THE OUTPUT:
How many units claim to be 300w? 600w? even 1000w led? Sellers will try anything to attract a sale. They use 3w chips, great. In fact they have 300 x 3w chips and the claim this is a 900w unit? Great? No... CHECK OR ASK THE ACTUAL POWER OUTPUT. Chances are they use a 300w power unit, which is slightly underpowered for 300 chips but is respectable. Their sales method however is not.
Now a buyer is comparing a $1000 "900w" to a $800 true 300w unit and really they are probably the same.
In the world of LED you CAN NOT power a chip to 100% power, it will burn the chip, regardless of quality within a few months plus the chip will burn off the extra power as heat NOT PAR.
As of now I use a 560w output unit and it is amazing and VERY strong. I will always go for the most powerful unit I can afford. If its too strong I can always lift the unit, but with a weak one I'm stuck.
THE SPECTRUM:
Naturally we are looking for a spectrum that falls within the ideal PAR values. As of now there is no such thing as "full spectrum led" all Led's are programmed for their spectrum.
I will look for blues ranging from 440-470nm and reds in the 640-660nm. In general Led's also have 10nm "range" around each programmed spectrum. For example a 660nm will offer from 650nm- to 670nm with the peak being 640nm.
THE HEATSINK AND COOLING.
All light sources use their energy by converting the electricity to either light or heat.
HPS/MH bulbs will let off up to 80% of the electricity as heat making them incredibly hot and inefficient. An Led light will let off about 15-25% of the energy as heat and unlike traditional bulbs they release most of the heat from behind them so we need to dissipate this effectively. A good quality light will have a thick high quality aluminium heat sink attached to the back with cooling fans forcing the heat away from the lamp.
Cheaper ones will use a an aluminium sheet resembling a piece of paper across the back and may or may not have a fan.
LENS OR NO LENS?
An optical lens on the lamp will magnify the light. From what I have read it is up to 25% more penetration. At this time LED's are still weak in my opinion and the lamp should use a Lens to get the most out of it. Of course this could raise the price of the lamp some 30% or even more. Exposed leds are not my favourite option but if all the above conditions are in place it would still work decently and be a good cheaper way to start until you have the $$ to upgrade.
MATERIALS USED
An LED grow light is supposed to last up to 10 years. You are paying good money for a high quality lamp, it should not be made with plastics. Of the top end units they all seem to use aluminium housing.
THE WARRANTY
I am VERY suspicious of any lamp with a 1 year warranty since every part installed is expected to last a decade. I look for 3 year warranty. These are usually on the parts and free shipping. Some units are made where parts of the lamp run independently of each other so if one part fails the rest still works.
I wouldn't want to send out my unit so this is great for my personal choice. Your plants still have light till replacement parts arrive.
I hope this helps answer some questions I know its very tedious to do the research on led grow lights since there is so much crap out there.
Happy Growing
I have been reading the forums for a long time now and have decided to put this post up in the hopes of helping LED grow light shoppers make an informed decision.
I have been using LED's for a little while now and have tried about 5 different kinds, from "brand names" to unknown. I even began importing my favourite ones for friends but I am not here to sell any. This is strictly for you to know what to look for before you put up any $$. I'm not going into too much detail at this time, this is simply a starting place. If you have any detailed questions feel free to ask or message me.
First thing I look for. What is the wattage of the LED chip.
THE CHIP:
I am not a fan of any led using less then a 3w chip. A TRUE 3w led chip, not one consisting of 3 1w leds. A good 3w chip from Cree, Epistar or Bridgelux will offer the quality I will be looking for. Bridgelux only makes blue/white spectrum at this time.
5w chips are on the way and I believe will be the future of LED growing but I do not think there has been enough testing and optimizing yet. Give it another year for them to work out the bugs.
THE OUTPUT:
How many units claim to be 300w? 600w? even 1000w led? Sellers will try anything to attract a sale. They use 3w chips, great. In fact they have 300 x 3w chips and the claim this is a 900w unit? Great? No... CHECK OR ASK THE ACTUAL POWER OUTPUT. Chances are they use a 300w power unit, which is slightly underpowered for 300 chips but is respectable. Their sales method however is not.
Now a buyer is comparing a $1000 "900w" to a $800 true 300w unit and really they are probably the same.
In the world of LED you CAN NOT power a chip to 100% power, it will burn the chip, regardless of quality within a few months plus the chip will burn off the extra power as heat NOT PAR.
As of now I use a 560w output unit and it is amazing and VERY strong. I will always go for the most powerful unit I can afford. If its too strong I can always lift the unit, but with a weak one I'm stuck.
THE SPECTRUM:
Naturally we are looking for a spectrum that falls within the ideal PAR values. As of now there is no such thing as "full spectrum led" all Led's are programmed for their spectrum.
I will look for blues ranging from 440-470nm and reds in the 640-660nm. In general Led's also have 10nm "range" around each programmed spectrum. For example a 660nm will offer from 650nm- to 670nm with the peak being 640nm.
THE HEATSINK AND COOLING.
All light sources use their energy by converting the electricity to either light or heat.
HPS/MH bulbs will let off up to 80% of the electricity as heat making them incredibly hot and inefficient. An Led light will let off about 15-25% of the energy as heat and unlike traditional bulbs they release most of the heat from behind them so we need to dissipate this effectively. A good quality light will have a thick high quality aluminium heat sink attached to the back with cooling fans forcing the heat away from the lamp.
Cheaper ones will use a an aluminium sheet resembling a piece of paper across the back and may or may not have a fan.
LENS OR NO LENS?
An optical lens on the lamp will magnify the light. From what I have read it is up to 25% more penetration. At this time LED's are still weak in my opinion and the lamp should use a Lens to get the most out of it. Of course this could raise the price of the lamp some 30% or even more. Exposed leds are not my favourite option but if all the above conditions are in place it would still work decently and be a good cheaper way to start until you have the $$ to upgrade.
MATERIALS USED
An LED grow light is supposed to last up to 10 years. You are paying good money for a high quality lamp, it should not be made with plastics. Of the top end units they all seem to use aluminium housing.
THE WARRANTY
I am VERY suspicious of any lamp with a 1 year warranty since every part installed is expected to last a decade. I look for 3 year warranty. These are usually on the parts and free shipping. Some units are made where parts of the lamp run independently of each other so if one part fails the rest still works.
I wouldn't want to send out my unit so this is great for my personal choice. Your plants still have light till replacement parts arrive.
I hope this helps answer some questions I know its very tedious to do the research on led grow lights since there is so much crap out there.
Happy Growing