How do you install a 50w LED floodlight indoors?

FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
Ive been watching this thread. Great idea and good work guys. I have a little electrical background.from the electrician classes I had to take at audio engineering school. We were taught to build and repair consoles, vu meters, etc..

Anyway. I found same cool white and warm white 20w led flood lights for $23. The rgb witih remote 10
watt for $33 and 20w for $41 localy. Would any of you think 4 20w white lights could cover a 2x4 for veg. I grabbed 2 to replace the 4 27w cfls I have over my moms. I still have to wire up th plugs though. Im lazy today.

I have 1 t5 in veg. I need to get another light for veg for perpetual veg. If 4 of these flood lights would work or even 6. Its still much cheaper and less watts than another t5.

Id rather have another led than a t5. Im really trying to lower my electric bill

Thanks
Click to expand...
I'm vegging 12 plants in 2 liter containers using 2 x 20 watt 5500Ks. They've replaced 4 x 23 watt CFLs and are being used in a 1.5' x 2' space. I'm flat out seeing better growth with the LEDs, so I say 4 x 20 would do it, except if you grow them taller you'll probably have to use some side lighting. And if you want my advice stay away from the warm whites, they usually output less lumens than their cool white counterparts. The RGB light will give you a good mix of spectrums even if they don't perform as well as the warm whites in the lumen department, though I guess they should because they have too much green in them for our purposes really :). But if the warms match up with the cools' L/W by all means use them. Good Luck Hyroot!
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I was wrong about the rgb ones locally, there was only 10 watt there. But I found a site that ships them from china. Have the 20 watt rgb. Around same as ebay prices.


http://m.dhgate.com/search.do

I dont know if its my phone. But every time I go to that link I have to type in led floodlight in the search.
 
Rasser

Rasser

Active Member
FranJan said:
^^^Interesting stuff gang. I always have to read most of your stuff at work where I need to be a little more clear headed :). Some of you should pull together and write a little LED electronic sticky for us more electronically challenged headz :eyesmoke:.

Anyway finally gotten around to separating my spots from their converters. Definitely running much cooler now that they're separate, I couldn't work on one of them for 10 minutes because it was so hot from running for 10 hours. Now you can just pick the converter up and hold it in your hand while it's running. It's still hot, just not insane hot anymore. And I guess you could put the converter's housing back on for esthetics, but I'm using part of it to mount on a sheet metal tray on the outside of my veg cab. Like this they can be mounted in very tight spots.
View attachment 2237924 View attachment 2237928 View attachment 2237929 View attachment 2237936

I'll be finishing them up with some split loom and mounting them soon. And probably during football season, maybe even sooner, I'm going to resolder and rewire as much of the damn things as possible. You cannot believe how terrible the soldering is, and how cheap the wiring that they used is also. I had to solder that fucking chip and 2 of the wire connections together again, but it was mostly because of cold connections that were probably going to fail. But they're doing clones like nobodies business ATM with no problems. Still, no skill involved in the production of these lights. Is the LED even soldered right?
Click to expand...
Another post that I've overlooked hmm.

Those drivers looks like old transformer's and not switch mode power supply's as is most energy efficient,
Good thing they got the hell out of there.
 
FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
^^^^ I'm thinking of just finding a driver I can run 3 20 watters on and getting rid of the transformers altogether. They run hot no matter what it seems. Total shit components. And look at the soldering on the LED. Garbage, and I don't think they soldered them in the correct area anyway! I must learn not to be so cheap all the time :).
 
Rasser

Rasser

Active Member
FranJan said:
^^^^ I'm thinking of just finding a driver I can run 3 20 watters on and getting rid of the transformers altogether. They run hot no matter what it seems. Total shit components. And look at the soldering on the LED. Garbage, and I don't think they soldered them in the correct area anyway! I must learn not to be so cheap all the time :).
Click to expand...
Yes the soldering is strange why not use the pads, and a transformer these days,
it's properly to make the light heavy, so a customer think, I'm getting the real deal here.

The driver from one of my 10W white flood lights.
 
FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Rasser said:
Yes the soldering is strange why not use the pads, and a transformer these days,
it's properly to make the light heavy, so a customer think, I'm getting the real deal here.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rasser I really did want your opinion about the soldering job. And those transformers are so heavy I can't even weigh them on my little scale which maxes out at 100 grams.

Here's a driver that I had shipped to me as a replacement driver for my broken 5x60. I'm wondering if I can use them to run 3x20 watts spots. Or maybe I'll just leave it be as a backup for now, and just build some of your CPU Spots instead.
driver8 - Copy.jpg​
 
IlovePlants

IlovePlants

Well-Known Member
Lately I've been trying to add more wattage to replace my spectra's but I couldn't find a suitable light for the proper cost. I'm going to make a prototype light fixture, 50w dimmable 12"x5" light, it will weigh a bit over 5lbs (4.6lbs of aluminum for the heatsink). The unit will be composed of 1:10watt 6000k,4:10watt 3000k, and 4:5watt 660nm. All leds can only max out at 698ma as I'll be overclocking the voltage, the red leds (700ma max) may die after over a year, but they were a cheap component. It's 73 watts over a 50watt dimmable driver. The bulk of the unit will be operational for years. I wish I had my damn camera so I could get a picture of my design, I should really just pick up an auto cad program, I just love drawing out things by hand. Anyway more info to come I need to get back to work.
Sincerely,
IlovePlants
 
IlovePlants

IlovePlants

Well-Known Member
I have drivers, 65k,30k, 660nm 10w leds, and the will to do it. Unfortunately I don't have funds for the; heatsink, soldering gun, or all the random wires that I need. Just a case of the life keeping me away from my passions. :( By next month I will have the money, hopefully. Honestly my life is fucking terrible right now, I'm in between jobs at the moment...
Sincerely,
ILovePlants
P.S. I'm watching the potential diy lamp thread. Keep it up, and get some content! Check out Goud's diy led thread, it has a spectrum creator, use it by percentages!
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
It looked to me like each led pad had it's own reflector, similar to the security light reflectors here.

I heard back from them. Nothing new. Simply a standard fixture with led conversion bulbs
 
Slipon

Slipon

Well-Known Member
hmmm.. been looking at them light`s myself and been wondering if they could replace my T5HOs at some stages ?
 
K

kathy82

New Member
I've just purchased four "50W LED RGB Color Change Flood Outdoor Light Lamp Remote Control 85-265V" from a seller through http://www.lightingnext.com/50-watt-outdoor-led-flood-lighting.html .When I apply power to them they turn on flickering. If I cycle the power many times, they will eventually turn on correctly, but once I turn the power off and then on again, they most likely flicker. I've discovered that if I get them turned on correctly and then leave them on for a few hours, they are more likely to turn on correctly (though still with no predictability).
 
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