Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
And pee penetrationThere will be some light penetration going on now.
And pee penetrationThere will be some light penetration going on now.
I use tap water, But I lower the PH. The water varies from a PH of 7.5 - 8.5 and has a hardness of 26 PPM out of the tap..Recap time :
Let’s go over what has happened since transplant ( dec. 14 ) . First , the container mix I have done in a basic , no-frills style is holding up well.
Plants were watered only on my local tap water ( 7.6 ph / 350 ppm ) . No issues so far.
Many overthink municipal water at times - it washes your ass , clothes , hydrates your pets , grows your grass and plants . Sure there are scary things in water - many will never be removed , but in gardening all over the world ….. it’s used. My tomato plants don’t give a shit about it - they grow … I eat them. My citrus tree is producing just as always without any input from me …. Except watering.
Calmag really isn’t a necessary evil in most situations as city water is often hard water ( calcium / magnesium ). Plus it’s in your fertilizer or nute charged mix anyways.
Growth up to this point is about 20 days …. And it is doing well. That’s why I say - keep shit simple - let the medium feed it.
I could ( if I wanted to ) begin to flip some of these plants to flower or continue to veg.
Technically the container mix has fed 20 days. So , I should have at least a couple more weeks before recharging mix by either dry fertilizer or top dressing more soil.
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I adjust PH sometimes as grow goes long to help elongate the buffering already in medium. But when i soil top dress it tends to recharge that aspect as well since fresh soil has fresh buffering.I use tap water, But I lower the PH. The water varies from a PH of 7.5 - 8.5 and has a hardness of 26 PPM out of the tap..
My plants are happy.
I have similar tap water as you and have been adding cal mag until I hit about 200ppms. I figured since my ppms were so low without adding any calmag I would be deficient. My medium is promix and nutrients are maxigro and maxibloom for flower. I;m getting red/purple stems which I have been attributing to a magnesium deficiency or lockout. Do you find the need to add cal mag to your tap water with the low ppms or do synthetic nutes typically add enough? Also should mention I'm under LEDs. Thanks!I use tap water, But I lower the PH. The water varies from a PH of 7.5 - 8.5 and has a hardness of 26 PPM out of the tap..
My plants are happy.
PPM's out of my tap is 330. I've never used cal-mag. I'm still new at this and I grow out of potting soil.I have similar tap water as you and have been adding cal mag until I hit about 200ppms. I figured since my ppms were so low without adding any calmag I would be deficient. My medium is promix and nutrients are maxigro and maxibloom for flower. I;m getting red/purple stems which I have been attributing to a magnesium deficiency or lockout. Do you find the need to add cal mag to your tap water with the low ppms or do synthetic nutes typically add enough? Also should mention I'm under LEDs. Thanks!
Great thread Budzbuddha!
You said hardness out of the tap is 26 PPM, unless I'm not reading it correctly.PPM's out of my tap is 330. I've never used cal-mag. I'm still new at this and I grow out of potting soil.
Yes. This is measured using a hardness test kit.You said hardness out of the tap is 26 PPM, unless I'm not reading it correctly.
Thanks so damn much for taking the time and helping so many with this. It was a game changer for me with doing autos using your method. Keeping things simple.View attachment 5358612
Day 21 ( after transplant )
The growth is evident … all from the base medium ( layered ) mix. I am constantly training ( LST ) on all of them. No top dressing or other bumps done up to this point. They are all still on original container mix and non ph tap water.
This is the glaring reason why keeping things simple - no overthinking - no expensive nute lines - NO NPK GUESSING or other lame reason to screw with them.
Fox Farm Ocean forest isnt such a bad product as most people wank about.
This is why i say just allow new plants to acclimate to it. It is a bit hot on “ some strains “ during early growth but they will be fine. I used this analogy- a bit lame but expresses the point - think about getting into a hot tub …. May be a bit hot to you upfront but the longer you sit in it , the more you adapt to it.
Not sure how long i will veg based on size alone but you can see even photos ( such as these are ) will flourish for weeks. I like structure in my plants and am not too concerned in topping excessively as some growers like. I like that plants can not be too crowded and raise the potential of mold with too many close growing tops. I have 2 banana blaze plants with a forest of tops each and have to routinely LST ( spread ) them apart to hedge against mold in their later flower stages - not a lot of fun sweating the final weeks over flowers on top of other flowers.
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Anyways , the plants in tents are pretty much bug free ( i don’t overwater ) and dry back is about every other day. Containers are free of salt buildup too.
I think i will be doing a first top dress or dry fertilizer bump in maybe 2 weeks. Just cover what plant may have exhausted up to this point. I do recommend raising any fabric bag container on to some kind of riser so the bottom doesn’t sit in a drip pan or stay soggy on tent floor.
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Thanks so damn much for taking the time and helping so many with this. It was a game changer for me with doing autos using your method. Keeping things simple.