Help with difference in ec

AnnFrank

Well-Known Member
That’s your PPFD, and good your keeping an eye on that.. VPD is your vapour pressure deficit.. basically the magic number when you get your room Temp/Humidity/leaf surface temps just right.. and when you do you get better growth as you plants transpire at the right rate and draw up nutrients and water better and are just all round happier plants.
Just look up VPD charts for an idea of what balance you want for your setup.
Ah ok thank u, temps around 21 ish, it varies through the day I have 2 small tube heaters in the tent on a thermostat but I’ve come to think they are a waste of time and humidifiers on a stat to and that seems to keep t fairly stable, the inlet fan and exhaust fan should be controlled by a controler that should keep temps and humidity at set levels, u can see by the graphs how the levels are doing (the dips in the middle of the day are where I’ve been in the tent messing about again, the float of the bucket got caught yesterday and the pots had over filled, I lost about 50 litres to the floor so had a right mare when I checked today) night time the humidity goes up quite a bit, thank uIMG_0492.pngIMG_0491.pngfor the vpd do I need to measure the temp of the leaf? Or is it just assumed it’s 2 degrees lower than the air temp?
 

AnnFrank

Well-Known Member
dude little bit more respect for the roots you have dead leafs just rooting between them you are asking for problems.
View attachment 5371269
yeh sorry, I was mid way through cleaning everything through, had total mare with the filter and everything caught behind it, everything’s all cleaned down and spotless
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
Ah ok thank u, temps around 21 ish, it varies through the day I have 2 small tube heaters in the tent on a thermostat but I’ve come to think they are a waste of time and humidifiers on a stat to and that seems to keep t fairly stable, the inlet fan and exhaust fan should be controlled by a controler that should keep temps and humidity at set levels, u can see by the graphs how the levels are doing (the dips in the middle of the day are where I’ve been in the tent messing about again, the float of the bucket got caught yesterday and the pots had over filled, I lost about 50 litres to the floor so had a right mare when I checked today) night time the humidity goes up quite a bit, thank uView attachment 5371363View attachment 5371364for the vpd do I need to measure the temp of the leaf? Or is it just assumed it’s 2 degrees lower than the air temp?
Either
Ideally you would measure the leaf temp directly with an IR thermometer.
In reality, 2-3 degrees °C is reasonable and and should be a good proxy.

In my tents, the LST is consistently 2.5 - 3.5 °C less than ambient depending on the location, fwiw,
 

AnnFrank

Well-Known Member
Either
Ideally you would measure the leaf temp directly with an IR thermometer.
In reality, 2-3 degrees °C is reasonable and and should be a good proxy.

In my tents, the LST is consistently 2.5 - 3.5 °C less than ambient depending on the location, fwiw,
I’ll get one ordered next time I get paid, and try get it dialled in, and I guess it changes from top or bottom of the plant ? (I tried to get my canopy flat but it’s not quite there
 

Mumbeltypeg

Well-Known Member
Ah ok thank u, temps around 21 ish, it varies through the day I have 2 small tube heaters in the tent on a thermostat but I’ve come to think they are a waste of time and humidifiers on a stat to and that seems to keep t fairly stable, the inlet fan and exhaust fan should be controlled by a controler that should keep temps and humidity at set levels, u can see by the graphs how the levels are doing (the dips in the middle of the day are where I’ve been in the tent messing about again, the float of the bucket got caught yesterday and the pots had over filled, I lost about 50 litres to the floor so had a right mare when I checked today) night time the humidity goes up quite a bit, thank uView attachment 5371363View attachment 5371364for the vpd do I need to measure the temp of the leaf? Or is it just assumed it’s 2 degrees lower than the air temp?
You will want to stabilise the temp and humidity so it’s even with no more than a 5 degree drop overnight.. if your humidity spikes like that overnight when your in flower you will struggle with mould.
Get these things stable and you will be more than half way there.. plants like a stable environment.
 

AnnFrank

Well-Known Member
You will want to stabilise the temp and humidity so it’s even with no more than a 5 degree drop overnight.. if your humidity spikes like that overnight when your in flower you will struggle with mould.
Get these things stable and you will be more than half way there.. plants like a stable environment.
yeh it’s odd I use a G.A.S climate controle it’s connected to both inlet and exhaust fans, it’s suppose to keep the temps and humidity at the set values, but still can’t get the humidity at night figured out and why it spikes so high, the last crop I put in the room was absolutely rammed (only 8 plants), they were lowryder autos and to be honest they got way out of hand size wise even tho they were supposed to be low growing things, but the humidity at night didn’t seem to be much of a problem, I’ve got good air flow but it’s something I’ll have a look at trying to figure out over the weekend as it should be making the fans work to keep things stable, i always thought the 10 degree difference at night was good for them in flower

picture of the autos c01593d2-66b9-4352-90f6-b65820054279.jpeg
 

Mumbeltypeg

Well-Known Member
yeh it’s odd I use a G.A.S climate controle it’s connected to both inlet and exhaust fans, it’s suppose to keep the temps and humidity at the set values, but still can’t get the humidity at night figured out and why it spikes so high, the last crop I put in the room was absolutely rammed (only 8 plants), they were lowryder autos and to be honest they got way out of hand size wise even tho they were supposed to be low growing things, but the humidity at night didn’t seem to be much of a problem, I’ve got good air flow but it’s something I’ll have a look at trying to figure out over the weekend as it should be making the fans work to keep things stable, i always thought the 10 degree difference at night was good for them in flower

picture of the autos View attachment 5371624
They looked nice n healthy tho..
 

AnnFrank

Well-Known Member
They looked nice n healthy tho..
yeh they were monsters, the climate controle was set the same so figured the air flow in the tent was good enough, it was the first time growing autos and was told to just let them grow from seed to finish, I did no pruning or defoliating either so it was a proper thick dense grow with no issues with mould anywhere it was a bit of a test crop and wasn’t expecting much apart from getting the room set up, outside humidity is high at the moment tho as the weathers crap, I’m not sure if the air being drawn in is having much affect due to heavy rain every day and night for the last 3 months, I wouldn't have thought it would be much different to the humidifier running in side, I’ll have a play around tho and try and figure it out
 

Mumbeltypeg

Well-Known Member
yeh they were monsters, the climate controle was set the same so figured the air flow in the tent was good enough, it was the first time growing autos and was told to just let them grow from seed to finish, I did no pruning or defoliating either so it was a proper thick dense grow with no issues with mould anywhere it was a bit of a test crop and wasn’t expecting much apart from getting the room set up, outside humidity is high at the moment tho as the weathers crap, I’m not sure if the air being drawn in is having much affect due to heavy rain every day and night for the last 3 months, I wouldn't have thought it would be much different to the humidifier running in side, I’ll have a play around tho and try and figure it out
How are you finding the alien RDWC setup?
Like how it operates so far?
 

AnnFrank

Well-Known Member
How are you finding the alien RDWC setup?
Like how it operates so far?
yeh, I have no issues, it’s clean and tidy, kinda wish I’d got the vortex system tho as the air pump I have running it is giving of a hum even tho I built a silencer box to house it in , where my tent is in the shed it’s in is about a foot from the pavement of a busy road for foot traffic and at night if the local bakery at the end of the road is quiet u can hear it, there was also a bit of vibration from the water pump but got some foam to sit all the pots on which sorted that, but as a system it find it was worth it, saved me messing round building my own, I was looking at getting another 4 pot system with the quad lids and using it to veg in another tent and then just using the set up u see in the photos for flowering for a quicker turn around on things but I’m a bit skint at the moment, I was using the gravity fed bags before from alien, I studied hydroponics in collage about 15 years ago and always wanted the dwc set up, but maaaaan have I forgotten allot of stuff, it didn’t help it was a hazey 3 years in collage to, I’m happy for all the comments from everyone good or bad, for me it’s all about learning
 

bazoomer

Well-Known Member
Did some digging about, took some water out and replaced with clean got the ec down to
About 2.2 so gonna leave it a bit to mix properly, noticed the head on the pump wasn’t what it should be so checked the filter, the return (20mm) line was just as bad and blocked with gunk, I’ve never seen the filter so bad after so short a time View attachment 5370824View attachment 5370825
Leave the filters out in the alien rdwc, they do more harm than good.
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Another cheap & simple option is rubber banding small aquarium media/filter sacks around the inside lip of the inlet bulkheads in each container. Problem is.. besides having a sack floating around next to the roots.. is you can't really filter out the last containers in the line/rows unless you got big 2" or bigger pipes or return manifold that the bags can suck into a ways without getting constricted and clogging up. Well..

Some early systems I designed awhile back would use a sacrificial container (same height as the rest of the containers at least) without a plant at the end of the row/s, and then run the return line to the pump from that bucket. Just hang one giant filter sock inside it off the bulkhead to catch any and all debri without ever clogging. Best RDWC system filter money can't buy on the market for some reason, but can be made for cheap if you don't mind the extra sized container taking up a little more space.

Otherwise, I would say your better off installing another extra inline y-filter right along side the original. If you added a T or better yet a better flowing Y fitting and had 2 of the filters, both with their own inlet and outlet valves leading back into one line again, it would allow you to run both filters at the same time by opening all the valves if you want. Or you could even switch one filter off, and swap between them every week or whatever, or clean one out without stopping the whole system by leaving the other opened up, etc.

Might just be cheaper and more practical though to buy a big 2" y-strainer (with reducer fittings on each side to match the current plumbing) with a way bigger pickup screen tube for $50-60 that has double or triple the surface area to prevent clogs. I prefer the chonky Banjo 2" y-strainers. You would think alien would go ahead and provide a decent sized filter like that now days, made way cheaper for low pressure hydroponic systems like ours... ah well.
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Another trick, is that you can usually swap out the smaller drain cap on the y-filter housing for a ball valve. Technically, the irrigation y-filters are designed so the cap faces down for drainage, but for RDWC an exception is usually made to have it installed upside down and facing up. Anyway, even though its facing upwards, you can hook your shop\wet vac hose up, open the valve, and suck most of the the crap right out of the mesh tube, faster than the water can leak out onto the ground, and without even turning the system off or closing more valves if you got enough HP.. Slurp! Clean out in 10 seconds ;)
 

AnnFrank

Well-Known Member
Another trick, is that you can usually swap out the smaller drain cap on the y-filter housing for a ball valve. Technically, the irrigation y-filters are designed so the cap faces down for drainage, but for RDWC an exception is usually made to have it installed upside down and facing up. Anyway, even though its facing upwards, you can hook your shop\wet vac hose up, open the valve, and suck most of the the crap right out of the mesh tube, faster than the water can leak out onto the ground, and without even turning the system off or closing more valves if you got enough HP.. Slurp! Clean out in 10 seconds ;)
Yeh I made a right mess with it all there was a coco ball stuck in the close valve so when I closed it and grabbed the filter and turned to clean it when I came back it had slowly emptied it self over the floor of my tent, it was a pig to try and clean it all live, the 2 filter system (one closed one open) sounds easiest for me, or just sucking it out the top, I’m beyond skint at the moment so might try see about another filter and split when I get paid, reducing the nutes to might help, I had them on a heavy feeding schdual, and looking at what others have said I think most of it is just being wasted, I’m not sure where the gunk has come from weather it be the plugs I used from seeds or just organic matter and nutes congealing, I’ll figure it out tho and get something sorted
 
Top