Help please...Seedlings have stopped growing

jaibyrd7

Well-Known Member
Lmao! I ain't in that, but i will say that every bean I've popped over the last 11 years, I popped under CFL and t5 that are always rated 5000 to 6500k. They then stay under that spectrum until flower and they then go under 2700 to 3000k. Blue light is what all seedlings prefer, that I've grown. I get healthier plants than when I tried the yellow bulbs my t5 came with.. You can veg under 3000k just fine. You can flower under 6500k just fine. But I get better results vegging under 6500k.
Transplant to an airy soil and let them dry a bit.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
You dont believe from what ive shown that blue light makes the stomata open more?
You dont believe stomata effect transpiration?
You dont believe transpiration effects translocation?
You dont believe suffocating roots restrict osmosis, and translocation?
You dont believe low humidy causes higher transpiration?
You dont believe these things makes a plant thirsty?
You dont believe all these things would have a relationship between each other?

You still haven't shown me any evidence to show otherwise.

Put up or shut up.

You literally are about to be the first person i ignore..

All i stated was spectrum can have an added affect. I never said it was the cause. Do some reading about vipar blurples. The blue in them is notorious for causing issues.

I also stated they were stretching. Do you not believe in light quality?

We both agree that the major cause is overwatering. Like EVERYONE here has said.

Show me your evidence, or leave me TF alone.
You are out of your damn head.

I just proved what I said.

The light had zero effect on this problem.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
http://ursalighting.com/effect-red-light-plants/

Supplement blue light. Sure.
But I prefer more red.
It's a personal choice. A choice I discovered using a crappy blurple.
They grew better with bloom switch only.
An observation. So far evidence to support the claim as well.
Last thing I'm saying.

**COPIED
It’s clear that red light is key for vegetative growth. The addition of blue light and other colors of light further increase photosynthesis rate and plant size.

P.S.
Its all about the spectrum. Its as simple as that.
All i ever said.
Its an overwatering issue. Lets leave it there.

:peace:
 
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Keith Tyrion

New Member
Thanks to all for your great advice - really appreciate the insights.
For next set of seedlings I will use a fluro tube with potting mix/perlite. I thought i was doing the right thing with a seedling mix but obviously it doesn't suit.

I've transferred the current batch into new potting mix/perlite in a slightly larger pot. I haven't watered the surrounding new soil and am hoping this will dry it all out effectively.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Thanks to all for your great advice - really appreciate the insights.
For next set of seedlings I will use a fluro tube with potting mix/perlite. I thought i was doing the right thing with a seedling mix but obviously it doesn't suit.

I've transferred the current batch into new potting mix/perlite in a slightly larger pot. I haven't watered the surrounding new soil and am hoping this will dry it all out effectively.
Good luck OP

Hope they turn around.

Best of luck.

:peace:
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
An easier fix ...

( you may not want to hear ) ....

1. Scott brand mix like MG
2. Wetting agents and crystals to HOLD MOISTURE.
( crystals are similar to vermiculite in moisture retention )
3. PRECHARGED mix with slow release nutes
( which explains burn / purp stem / etc. )
4. Not very aerated SEEDLING MIX


5. Clear them out ... Get a better " aerated " mix .... Other than Scott's , MG or Kellogg.
Quality swings wide on these bags , bio solids , PRECHARGED perlite ( mg ) , wetting
agents / fillers .

Try sunshine #4 / Dr. Earth veg garden or HOME GROWN / Happy Frog / Pro Mix
Black Gold / Light Warrior .... FOF " is good " but can ALSO BURN SOME SEEDLINGS , but can be tempered by cutting in a milder potting mix or peat admendment / perlite.
Your soil looks compacted , so emerging roots struggle.

5000k / 5500k /6400k / 6500k are good starter spectrums ... Which aid in tighter nodes and good veg growth. But ..... Good veg growth can happen with 3000k/3500k/4000k.
I am doing grows from start to finish with either 3000k and another running a 3500k/4000k blend seed to harvest .

Flouro type lights are a good gentle STARTER light to get the seedlings started.
A simple CFL can do it ... Here are 5500k 100w bulbs starting some girls. Simple ECOSMART spirals , Feint Electric are 6400k.

image.jpeg

Watering :
No matter what the size pot you sowed your seed into , there is NO REASON to fully saturate the seedling. Seedlings can and do end up DAMPING OFF or stunting because of overwatering. At best I would have put a small amount around emerging stalk and or mist the seedling only. A seedling is BORN with a small of amount of internal nutes to begin growth and a water only beginning would be sufficient.

image.jpeg

Start over and use a different medium choice. And stop watering every 3-4 days .
Water small for a seedling.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
For sure after 15 years drop and harvest more than 100.000seeds (outdoor ) the sun is ☀
But i see more good results under florosent on seeding
For sure.

Some LEDs work great as well.

I'm not going to argue anymore. It's assinine to think red is better for veg. Maybe if you want stretch. Blue makes compact nodes.

I use an led with Cree and osram diodes. With the veg on it uses white and blue diodes and it makes tighter nodes than my t5 ever did. I'll start them in a solo cup and at 6 or 8 inches tall they will have as just as many nodes.

In cfl or tube fluro lights either red or blue can be used. A 3000k bulb will have plenty of blue and 6500k will have plenty of red. Meaning either one you choose will have red and blue in them.

http://ursalighting.com/effect-red-light-plants/

Supplement blue light. Sure.
But I prefer more red.
It's a personal choice. A choice I discovered using a crappy blurple.
They grew better with bloom switch only.
An observation. So far evidence to support the claim as well.
Last thing I'm saying.

**COPIED
It’s clear that red light is key for vegetative growth. The addition of blue light and other colors of light further increase photosynthesis rate and plant size.

P.S.
Its all about the spectrum. Its as simple as that.
All i ever said.
Its an overwatering issue. Lets leave it there.

:peace:
It's not about the spectrum man. It's not.

It's not about preference. You grasp at things that sort of support what you are saying but not really.

If you use red for veg it's because you prefer taller plants with more space between nodes. Blue in veg makes compact plants with tight nodes so when you put them in flower they do out grow your space.

I'll stick with what the manufacturers of agriculture bulbs have to say.

Check out these agromax bulbs. These are not bulbs meant for factory lights like most lights. These are horticulture specific with a lot of research behind them. If you look up hortilux t5 bulbs meant for horticulture they same thing.

Here click on some of the bulbs and look at the spectrums and what they are for.

https://www.htgsupply.com/categories/grow-light-parts/grow-light-bulbs/t5-bulbs

Here is a snippet if you don't want to read.
Screenshot_20180624-121759.png
Wow. 2700-3000 is for bloom and 5000- and up is for veg.


Actually if a person want the best results they will mimic the sun and that means running mixed spectrum. I ran a mix of t5 tubes including uv.

At least run a 50/50 mix of bloom and veg.

Bottom line you tried to blame the spectrum for the problem and it had nothing to do with it.
 

neved

Well-Known Member

neved

Well-Known Member
An easier fix ...

( you may not want to hear ) ....

1. Scott brand mix like MG
2. Wetting agents and crystals to HOLD MOISTURE.
( crystals are similar to vermiculite in moisture retention )
3. PRECHARGED mix with slow release nutes
( which explains burn / purp stem / etc. )
4. Not very aerated SEEDLING MIX


5. Clear them out ... Get a better " aerated " mix .... Other than Scott's , MG or Kellogg.
Quality swings wide on these bags , bio solids , PRECHARGED perlite ( mg ) , wetting
agents / fillers .

Try sunshine #4 / Dr. Earth veg garden or HOME GROWN / Happy Frog / Pro Mix
Black Gold / Light Warrior .... FOF " is good " but can ALSO BURN SOME SEEDLINGS , but can be tempered by cutting in a milder potting mix or peat admendment / perlite.
Your soil looks compacted , so emerging roots struggle.

5000k / 5500k /6400k / 6500k are good starter spectrums ... Which aid in tighter nodes and good veg growth. But ..... Good veg growth can happen with 3000k/3500k/4000k.
I am doing grows from start to finish with either 3000k and another running a 3500k/4000k blend seed to harvest .

Flouro type lights are a good gentle STARTER light to get the seedlings started.
A simple CFL can do it ... Here are 5500k 100w bulbs starting some girls. Simple ECOSMART spirals , Feint Electric are 6400k.

View attachment 4155267

Watering :
No matter what the size pot you sowed your seed into , there is NO REASON to fully saturate the seedling. Seedlings can and do end up DAMPING OFF or stunting because of overwatering. At best I would have put a small amount around emerging stalk and or mist the seedling only. A seedling is BORN with a small of amount of internal nutes to begin growth and a water only beginning would be sufficient.

View attachment 4155269

Start over and use a different medium choice. And stop watering every 3-4 days .
Water small for a seedling.
Really one of the completed reply I’ve read in this thread if you wanna successful seeding
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Mmmm
They looks fruity and i can smell them from here
There are lots of good information by the way in this thread .
Really thanks for your great job on this thread
❤
Thank you.

No problem.

I'm not even saying that 3000 or 4000 can't be used from start to finish. Plenty of cob growers doing it. My cob light is 4000k.

My point was that spectrum had nothing to do with this case.

When it comes down to it anything from 3000k to about 7500k will grow pot from start to finish. The reason why is that even though that 3000k leans red it still includes some blue and even though 6500k leans blue it still contains red.

When growing indoors we want to mimic the best that mother nature has to offer and leave out the worst he has to offer.

Mixed spectrum will always be better than a single spectrum because mixed is closer to the actual sun.

Those pics of the t5 bud had a 10,000k+uva that ran from seedling until finished and never hurt the plant.

I will admit the first time I use a 4ft 8 bulb t5 I ruined a batch of seedlings. I listened to what everyone said about t5. Run them close. Bull. I fired those plants.

Almost any light will burn a plant. My cool to the touch cobs will fry a plant.

We don't solve the problem by changing spectrum. We raise the light up.

I've always said to each thier own. Grow how you know.

I won't however let a guy buy a new light just because they drowned some seedlings.

I would even be willing to bet the op had the light too close.
 

neved

Well-Known Member
Thank you.

No problem.

I'm not even saying that 3000 or 4000 can't be used from start to finish. Plenty of cob growers doing it. My cob light is 4000k.

My point was that spectrum had nothing to do with this case.

When it comes down to it anything from 3000k to about 7500k will grow pot from start to finish. The reason why is that even though that 3000k leans red it still includes some blue and even though 6500k leans blue it still contains red.

When growing indoors we want to mimic the best that mother nature has to offer and leave out the worst he has to offer.

Mixed spectrum will always be better than a single spectrum because mixed is closer to the actual sun.

Those pics of the t5 bud had a 10,000k+uva that ran from seedling until finished and never hurt the plant.

I will admit the first time I use a 4ft 8 bulb t5 I ruined a batch of seedlings. I listened to what everyone said about t5. Run them close. Bull. I fired those plants.

Almost any light will burn a plant. My cool to the touch cobs will fry a plant.

We don't solve the problem by changing spectrum. We raise the light up.

I've always said to each thier own. Grow how you know.

I won't however let a guy buy a new light just because they drowned some seedlings.

I would even be willing to bet the op had the light too close.
WOw
Really interesting on CoB lights But always afraid of heating prOblem with them .
Now im using Migrow reallt one of the most effective led lights I’ve ever seen .its almost works like 600w MH for me in vegg even in lower light volume.
How’s cob heat ? Could you please explain some about them ? I wanna know how much they going to heat your tent by during the day?
I attach my test nutrients closet tent .Any recommendations?
Thanks again
 

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whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
WOw
Really interesting on CoB lights But always afraid of heating prOblem with them .
Now im using Migrow reallt one of the most effective led lights I’ve ever seen .its almost works like 600w MH for me in vegg even in lower light volume.
How’s cob heat ? Could you please explain some about them ? I wanna know how much they going to heat your tent by during the day?
I attach my test nutrients closet tent .Any recommendations?
Thanks again
The cob light has four citizen cobs a 50 watts each and does almost as good as 432 watts of t5.

They run cool to the touch. It can be a problem in cool weather. Sometimes my grow area does get cool. They are intense and will burn plants if too close.

I also have a unit farm ufo 80. It pulls about 175 watts full power and runs a bit warmer.

Cobs are a bit more full spectrum.

I've used various lights from hid to t5 to cobs to single diode led.

The cobs are the most efficient and run the coolest. Hid are the least effecient and run a bit hotter and you get more ir heat from them.

Cobs mean chip on board led. Many LEDs on one board. They look like honey comb. They literally run cool to the touch. Some can get warm but not hot. They add very little heat to the grow area.

Those plants look good. I don't have much advice. I see a couple leaves that are a bit dark. Could be a little high on nitrogen or could just be the strain.

The cob lights can be found from a few sponsors. Timber grow lights, cobkits.com, tasty led and there are a few more.

I would get Cree, Vero or citizen cobs. They are more effecient than cheaper LEDs. When it comes to single diode led most use crappy diodes. A few companies make single diode lamps with Cree or osram diodes.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
I want to make it clear to this thread, that PAR is a tiny part of the spectrum.
Every grow light we buy, has a large spectrum.
It just depends WHERE on the spectrum the light sits.
Maybe one has more blue. Maybe one has more red.
Maybe one is more white.
It's spectrum. All grow lights emit SOME red, and SOME blue. All of which will grow a plant.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_spectrum

https://www.khanacademy.org/science/physics/light-waves/introduction-to-light-waves/a/light-and-the-electromagnetic-spectrum


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photomorphogenesis


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grow_light

https://www.maximumyield.com/how-spectral-light-influences-plant-growth/2/3421

Which light choice?
There are millions. Take your pic.
They all perform differently as well.

An example was my shitty blurple. Which grew better plants with flower only on.
It's clear plants NEED a full spectrum to grow. Which nearly all grow lights have.

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/its-alright-white-youre-led-grow-light-christopher-sloper

I also want to say both hps and mh emit uv light too.
Just different amounts. Red light too.
Led's are usually no different.
It's SPECTRUM.

5000k in a COB, has to be different in strength than a long fluorescent tube at 5000k. Does it not?
 

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