Have A Plant Problem? Check Here First
- Thread starter justatoker
- Start date
I did a SOG outside to just try a few thousand seeds they came up really nice did it late in season but at some point the top leaves got wilted and looked burnt now all the bud sites are all purple leaves think its a fungas or just lack of nutes? did another site jus like it with just a few hundred have 60 now and none of those turned purple outside of some of the stems.... Used real wood ash over the soil with some compost didnt add any nutes until recently..
topfuel29
Well-Known Member
Collection of information to help those with plant problems.
Some of it has all ready been posted in other places. trying to bring it all together in this post.
Even if your new to growing you can match up pictures with your problems.
Have faith in yourself. Start a new thread in the plant problems section. RIU Members Love to Help fellow Growers
Considering most growers these days use 2 or 3 part nutrients, most of these problems shouldn't appear...more than likely the problem will be a pH imbalance which can result in the plant showing problems that you can easily confuse with with other problems or deficiences. So i found 2 pH charts that are very usefull and show the correct pH ranges for cannabis and what nutrients will be available at certain pH ranges :smoke
Improper pH can look like this
But in some cases, the plants can be in all the correct ranges but still be dying, lacking in growth, etc. and if you dont know what your looking for and how to fix these problems, your entire crop can go to waste so i hope the following helps fellow growers and newbies alike
Nitrogen
Nitrogen is a key Element in the production of Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. Many plant hormones contain Nitrogen as well as Chlorophyll, DNA and RNA (Genetic materials), and a myriad of enzymes that help control and regulate growth. Nitrogen is the most mobile element.
Plants suffering from this deficiency are distinct in their pattern of yellowing. Yellowing starts on the older leaves and progresses upward, leaving the top parts of the plant green.
Notice that the large fan leaves are yellowing and turning purple-ish. from the bottom up.
Feeding with a high N fert will clear it up, like an emulsion of fish at 5-1-1.
NOTE: Leaves will turn pale green, then yellow evenly. There are no intervenial striping or yellow patches. Color is uniform over the entire leaf. Yellowing is expected during flushing, as the plant is using up all available internal nutrients...
Phosphorous
Phosphorous deficiencies are distinct. Purple stems, leaf stems, leaf veins and stunted growth are a sure sign of a Phosphorous deficiency. Leaves will also tend to be smaller and dark green, and may or may not include necrotic patches. Bud size will be smaller and underdeveloped, as will the root mass.
Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration, and vegetative growth.
A good all-around fertilizer like Peter's 20-20-20 will clear this up.
Potassium
Potassium deficiencies are identified by necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves. Necrotic patches can be seen on the leaves as well. Leaves will eventually turn yellow, brown and die off. Most of the plants that show signs of a Potassium deficiency are going to be the tallest and best looking plants you have.
Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in its life stage will keep your seedlings from falling over.
Again, feeding with a good all-around fertilizer will clear it up as well. You can also use wood ashes and water them into your soil to fix this. You'll need to replace your soil's holding capacity of Potassium, and have a surplus before it will become available to the roots again.
Magnesium
A magnesium deficient plant is identified by intervenial chlorosis, necrosis, and eventually a lockout of plant nutrients. The problems starts at the bottom of the plants and works its way up.
Chlorophyll has the same structure as Hemoglobin, except that it has a magnesium atom in place of the Iron atom. Chlorophyll is how plants make sugars to feed the process of building ATP through the Krebs cycle.
Treating with an Epsom salts mix will clear this right up.
Sulphur
If you ever see this in your plants, then you can be assured that you have this deficiency. Look for yellowing starting from the top, and progressing down, including the veins of the leaves. Treat the same as a Mg deficiency.
Sulphur is an important element in the structures of amino acids and proteins, and is needed for normal plant respiration and metabolism of sugars and other compounds.
Calcium
https://cannabis.community.forums.ozstoners.com/cannaversity/uploads/14planthlpr.jpg[//IMG]
Calcium is an important co-enzyme in the production of fatty acids, cell membranes, and is necessary for normal mitosis/cell division. A Ca deficiency will stunt plant growth. Acidic soils may increase the risk of a Ca def. Treat with limestone.
Boron
[IMG]https://cannabis.community.forums.ozstoners.com/cannaversity/uploads/15planthlpr.jpg
This is a rare occurrence and is exemplified by small gray or necrotic patches on the growing shoots which eventually die.
Fixing this is done easily by applying a foliar spray of eyewash containing Boric Acid. That picture is not really the best IMO, but it shows a gray patch on a leaf that is indicative of what to look for. This will most likely occur in outdoor grows.
Copper
A copper deficiency is commonly mistaken for an over fertilization problem, but it is set apart by the growing tips dieing off first along with the crispy leaves. The new shoots will die from the tips and margins first, often going brown or even white before they die.
A foliar feeding with a commercial fungicide containing Copper (ie. Copper Sulphate) will clear it up, but the damaged leaves may never recover.
Iron
An Iron deficiency will mask a Magnesium deficiency. If you look at the newer growth, that will be where the plant exhibits the intervenial chlorosis typically differentiating it from a Magnesium deficiency.
Notice how the top of the plant is exhibiting intervenial chlorosis and the lower part is unaffected.
Manganese
A Manganese deficiency exhibits a general chlorosis, followed by yellowing patches and necrotic patches between the veins of the larger fan leaves.
Molybdenum
A Molybdenum deficient plant will exhibit yellowing necrotic leaves from the tips inward, with necrotic lesions present from the tips inward. A very distinctive feature is that it occurs in the middle of the plant. It also may spread to the rest of the plant if not stopped, eventually killing your plant.
Fritted Trace Elements may be added to your soil mix as you prepare it for planting. A good Hydroponic nutrient should contain ample micros to get your plant through its lifecycle.
Zinc
A Zinc deficient plant is obvious from the wispy new growth with twisted leaflets at 90°. There is also intervenial chlorosis at the top of the plant that is commonly confused with an Iron deficiency.
Notice in this picture that the older grown leaves are relatively unaffected and healthy.
Over Fertilization
This is a very common problem that can be disguised as an improper pH, or light burning, as well as a myriad of other problems.
The first picture masks as over Nitrification, but notice how the entire leaf is curled under, not just the tip.
The second photo displays many problems associated with overferting, some of which could be a simple imbalance of pH and a certain nutrient/micro lockout at the given pH.
Over watering / lack of Dissolved Oxygen
Droopy leaves and lower leaf yellowing are indications of persistent over watering problems.
Over Nitrification
The above picture shows the claw: indicative of over Nitrification. Some growers loadup their plants with Nitrogen prior to flowering. This will prepare them for the stretch to follow, and will increase bud production if induced a few weeks prior to blooming the plant.
Radiant Heat
Radiant heat is also called light burn. Typically, topmost leaves will become pale green, then turn brown as the burn progresses. Plants on the outmost edge of the garden will remain a healthy dark green, with light burned plants directly underneath the reflectors in a circular pattern.
NITROGEN (N)
Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.
POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.
CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.
SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.
IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.
MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.
BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.
MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.
ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.
OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Cannabis Nutrient Disorders
Cannabis nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake.
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Nutrients: Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro- nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients.
*NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution.
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Macro-nutrients Nitrogen (N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.
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Phosphorus (P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots.
NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.
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Potassium (K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.
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Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.
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Calcium (Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.
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Trace Elements Sulphur (S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.
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Iron (Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.
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Manganese (Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.
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Zinc (Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.
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Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and
causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.
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Boron (B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in
pollination and seed production.
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Molybdenum (Mn) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A
deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.
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These nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the
nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is
dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs.
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Key on Nutrient Disorders
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes. 1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8
a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.
9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.
13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not You may just have a weak plant.
Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies
The Nutrients: Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use
chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the
nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water
- Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up. General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison. PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) . Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it. Other Things
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could. Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2. Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine. Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean. Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites underneath. Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions. Insufficient light -- tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight. Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
Some of it has all ready been posted in other places. trying to bring it all together in this post.
Even if your new to growing you can match up pictures with your problems.
Have faith in yourself. Start a new thread in the plant problems section. RIU Members Love to Help fellow Growers
Considering most growers these days use 2 or 3 part nutrients, most of these problems shouldn't appear...more than likely the problem will be a pH imbalance which can result in the plant showing problems that you can easily confuse with with other problems or deficiences. So i found 2 pH charts that are very usefull and show the correct pH ranges for cannabis and what nutrients will be available at certain pH ranges :smoke
Improper pH can look like this
But in some cases, the plants can be in all the correct ranges but still be dying, lacking in growth, etc. and if you dont know what your looking for and how to fix these problems, your entire crop can go to waste so i hope the following helps fellow growers and newbies alike
Nitrogen
Nitrogen is a key Element in the production of Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. Many plant hormones contain Nitrogen as well as Chlorophyll, DNA and RNA (Genetic materials), and a myriad of enzymes that help control and regulate growth. Nitrogen is the most mobile element.
Plants suffering from this deficiency are distinct in their pattern of yellowing. Yellowing starts on the older leaves and progresses upward, leaving the top parts of the plant green.
Notice that the large fan leaves are yellowing and turning purple-ish. from the bottom up.
Feeding with a high N fert will clear it up, like an emulsion of fish at 5-1-1.
NOTE: Leaves will turn pale green, then yellow evenly. There are no intervenial striping or yellow patches. Color is uniform over the entire leaf. Yellowing is expected during flushing, as the plant is using up all available internal nutrients...
Phosphorous
Phosphorous deficiencies are distinct. Purple stems, leaf stems, leaf veins and stunted growth are a sure sign of a Phosphorous deficiency. Leaves will also tend to be smaller and dark green, and may or may not include necrotic patches. Bud size will be smaller and underdeveloped, as will the root mass.
Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration, and vegetative growth.
A good all-around fertilizer like Peter's 20-20-20 will clear this up.
Potassium
Potassium deficiencies are identified by necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves. Necrotic patches can be seen on the leaves as well. Leaves will eventually turn yellow, brown and die off. Most of the plants that show signs of a Potassium deficiency are going to be the tallest and best looking plants you have.
Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in its life stage will keep your seedlings from falling over.
Again, feeding with a good all-around fertilizer will clear it up as well. You can also use wood ashes and water them into your soil to fix this. You'll need to replace your soil's holding capacity of Potassium, and have a surplus before it will become available to the roots again.
Magnesium
A magnesium deficient plant is identified by intervenial chlorosis, necrosis, and eventually a lockout of plant nutrients. The problems starts at the bottom of the plants and works its way up.
Chlorophyll has the same structure as Hemoglobin, except that it has a magnesium atom in place of the Iron atom. Chlorophyll is how plants make sugars to feed the process of building ATP through the Krebs cycle.
Treating with an Epsom salts mix will clear this right up.
Sulphur
If you ever see this in your plants, then you can be assured that you have this deficiency. Look for yellowing starting from the top, and progressing down, including the veins of the leaves. Treat the same as a Mg deficiency.
Sulphur is an important element in the structures of amino acids and proteins, and is needed for normal plant respiration and metabolism of sugars and other compounds.
Calcium
https://cannabis.community.forums.ozstoners.com/cannaversity/uploads/14planthlpr.jpg[//IMG]
Calcium is an important co-enzyme in the production of fatty acids, cell membranes, and is necessary for normal mitosis/cell division. A Ca deficiency will stunt plant growth. Acidic soils may increase the risk of a Ca def. Treat with limestone.
Boron
[IMG]https://cannabis.community.forums.ozstoners.com/cannaversity/uploads/15planthlpr.jpg
This is a rare occurrence and is exemplified by small gray or necrotic patches on the growing shoots which eventually die.
Fixing this is done easily by applying a foliar spray of eyewash containing Boric Acid. That picture is not really the best IMO, but it shows a gray patch on a leaf that is indicative of what to look for. This will most likely occur in outdoor grows.
Copper
A copper deficiency is commonly mistaken for an over fertilization problem, but it is set apart by the growing tips dieing off first along with the crispy leaves. The new shoots will die from the tips and margins first, often going brown or even white before they die.
A foliar feeding with a commercial fungicide containing Copper (ie. Copper Sulphate) will clear it up, but the damaged leaves may never recover.
Iron
An Iron deficiency will mask a Magnesium deficiency. If you look at the newer growth, that will be where the plant exhibits the intervenial chlorosis typically differentiating it from a Magnesium deficiency.
Notice how the top of the plant is exhibiting intervenial chlorosis and the lower part is unaffected.
Manganese
A Manganese deficiency exhibits a general chlorosis, followed by yellowing patches and necrotic patches between the veins of the larger fan leaves.
Molybdenum
A Molybdenum deficient plant will exhibit yellowing necrotic leaves from the tips inward, with necrotic lesions present from the tips inward. A very distinctive feature is that it occurs in the middle of the plant. It also may spread to the rest of the plant if not stopped, eventually killing your plant.
Fritted Trace Elements may be added to your soil mix as you prepare it for planting. A good Hydroponic nutrient should contain ample micros to get your plant through its lifecycle.
Zinc
A Zinc deficient plant is obvious from the wispy new growth with twisted leaflets at 90°. There is also intervenial chlorosis at the top of the plant that is commonly confused with an Iron deficiency.
Notice in this picture that the older grown leaves are relatively unaffected and healthy.
Over Fertilization
This is a very common problem that can be disguised as an improper pH, or light burning, as well as a myriad of other problems.
The first picture masks as over Nitrification, but notice how the entire leaf is curled under, not just the tip.
The second photo displays many problems associated with overferting, some of which could be a simple imbalance of pH and a certain nutrient/micro lockout at the given pH.
Over watering / lack of Dissolved Oxygen
Droopy leaves and lower leaf yellowing are indications of persistent over watering problems.
Over Nitrification
The above picture shows the claw: indicative of over Nitrification. Some growers loadup their plants with Nitrogen prior to flowering. This will prepare them for the stretch to follow, and will increase bud production if induced a few weeks prior to blooming the plant.
Radiant Heat
Radiant heat is also called light burn. Typically, topmost leaves will become pale green, then turn brown as the burn progresses. Plants on the outmost edge of the garden will remain a healthy dark green, with light burned plants directly underneath the reflectors in a circular pattern.
NITROGEN (N)
Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.
POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.
CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.
SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.
IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.
MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.
BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.
MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.
ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.
OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Cannabis Nutrient Disorders
Cannabis nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake.
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Nutrients: Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro- nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients.
*NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution.
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Macro-nutrients Nitrogen (N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.
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Phosphorus (P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots.
NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.
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Potassium (K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.
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Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.
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Calcium (Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.
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Trace Elements Sulphur (S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.
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Iron (Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.
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Manganese (Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.
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Zinc (Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.
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Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and
causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.
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Boron (B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in
pollination and seed production.
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Molybdenum (Mn) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A
deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.
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These nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the
nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is
dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs.
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Key on Nutrient Disorders
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes. 1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8
a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).b) If not, go to #9.
9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.
13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not You may just have a weak plant.
Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies
The Nutrients: Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use
chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the
nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water
- Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up. General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison. PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) . Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it. Other Things
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could. Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2. Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine. Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean. Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites underneath. Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions. Insufficient light -- tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight. Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
VTMi'kmaq
Well-Known Member
excellent post topfuel! Was wondering if you could give me your insight on this plant in week 4 of flower, the only one doing this btw, I took pics of the gage pe pe le dank right next to it to compare. I haven't seen any insects at ALL so it leads me to think this particular plant isn't liking the 13 inches from the cooltube maybe? I would appreciate your insight.
Hi guys HELP ME PLEASEEEEEE
I have a cannabis (6 weeks old) and today I saw She have some stain on her 4 leaf ...
She Live in my Apartment but in out of room near the window - And use SUN Light .
So I think , I watering she to much !! everyday so. but I am not sure she have virus and i should change the soil or what.
please help me
i have some picture if you need .
Zoom In:
Zoom out:
I have a cannabis (6 weeks old) and today I saw She have some stain on her 4 leaf ...
She Live in my Apartment but in out of room near the window - And use SUN Light .
So I think , I watering she to much !! everyday so. but I am not sure she have virus and i should change the soil or what.
please help me
i have some picture if you need .Zoom In:
Zoom out:CreteKeene
New Member
lol ok. I figured out how to upload my pics. This is my plant. this is about 3 weeks, indoor, 6 50w CFL lights. every couple days they get about 4 hrs tropical sun. I water them about 1.5 times per day (enough so water comes out at bottom). I spray the leaves every 2-3 hrs. Are my mid leaves and bottom leaves drooping from over watering the leaves? They are always like that. Top leaves usually nice and perky buy lower leaves droop. I'm pretty sure I don't over water the soil. So wondering why they droop. And my major question is what's causing my top leaves to get brown tips and sometimes brown edges? This just started yesterday, I think while they were in the sun. Tropical country so pretty hot sun. Also my cfl lights are 2-5 inches away (usually 2-3 inches) from the leaves. Hope thats enough info. Thanks so much for any help. My first time growing.
420rhino
Member
Hi there folks this Only One White-Rhino Out Door Grow I started in July we in October its On the Final Stage of Flowering should I water it One gallon a day or One day yes & One day Noo First time Grower lol, or water it One gallon a day or does not Matter the time I water it could it be in Morning or Afternoon Or evening or Late-Night
indooraloka
Member
why aren't their any pictures on the original post, they just say
Figure'?
Figure'?
CosbyKryptonite
New Member
why can i not see the pictures?
CosbyKryptonite
New Member
pretty fucking lame pretty useless w/out pics. thanks for nothing
View attachment 2867763View attachment 2867764View attachment 2867765View attachment 2867766View attachment 2867767View attachment 2867768View attachment 2867769View attachment 2867770View attachment 2867771View attachment 2867772Can anyone help me with this problem not sure what is happening never had this problem before been under 12/12 for 46 days ph is 5.9-6.2 ppm is 130 x10 run off is normally 150-160x10 there's no light leak temp is steady at 34 deg C is it regrowth,foxtailing,dreading or........doesn't seem even close to harvesting strains are both feminized one is grapefruit and the other is motivation grown in 60 parts per-lite 40 premium potting soil top feed recycled drip irrigation
djeptoria91
Well-Known Member
Gotta turn off that light bro, cant help without a better view of your girls 
cheers for the reply tho bro with the lights off this time Oldcourierguy
Member
Original post broken. No pics.
Sixpounder
New Member
Hello friends,
This is my first grow of this beautiful plant and i'm having a problem and really appreciate any help.
So i got 17 day from seed blue mystic auto under 250 hps lamp with and got some yellow spots on plants and now some brown dots starting to appear, i have tried and searched the internet for answers didn't really find the description of my problem so there's the pictures thank you for you help! (sorry for mistakes English isn't my native language).
2 plants with the same problem.
This is my first grow of this beautiful plant and i'm having a problem and really appreciate any help.
So i got 17 day from seed blue mystic auto under 250 hps lamp with and got some yellow spots on plants and now some brown dots starting to appear, i have tried and searched the internet for answers didn't really find the description of my problem so there's the pictures thank you for you help! (sorry for mistakes English isn't my native language).
2 plants with the same problem.
Stoned Drifter
Well-Known Member
can anyone help me out. started to show deficiencies after 12/12 switch. im growing in amended soil.my guess is mg. or p. dont know really how to treat it.
