Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

repvip said:
Thanks andyman!! +rep 4 u my friend:hump:

Where can we get a contactor? Lowes?
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maybe lowes. mine was for ac/havc I think. If not there any home elecrical store or radio shack could get one. I bet lowes has them. they make them in 24v 120v 240v so be sure to get the right one. and the higher the amp the better.:-D
 
Hey Stink or anyone that can remember. Im gettin my fence posts for the Aero/NFT system and I cant remember the length of them. I know they r 4x4 posts but just cant remember the length. Also I couldnt remember what the distance between each 2" whole for the pots. This might sound to specific but whatever the distance is between the whole's, is it measured from the center of each whole or from the outside diameter of each whole?

Thanks guys I hope you understand!
 
GringoLoco said:
LR, if you've spent anytime reading these threads, you'll find that many variables come into play when growing this wonderful plant, more than just lights and the system, you have genetics, nutrients, environment, plant husbandry skills, and the list goes on.

Any "guess-timate" you'd receive, would be just that, a guess. They only way to truly know what your yield would be is to pick a strain, pick a system, pick some nutes, and run with it. Once you harvest you would then have your answer.

Peace!
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Hey Gringo Thanks for the reply. I hear what you are saying about the different variables and such as i have read the entire thread along with a bunch of others but there has got to be somebody out there that can give me an educated guess vs just a guess and i would be more then happy because it is more knowledge then i currently posses.
I think the whole point of my question is to see if it may be more beneficial to the plants alternating them in the manner i posted above without too much of a loss of production. My train of thought is telling me that by doing this more light will penetrate to the lower branches of the full plants and hopefully you can get a hugh ass single cola on the others because all that plants energy is going to produce just that. I am just looking into ways to maximize yield in limited space with SB system. Thanks for your replies.
 
Jgoasnhja said:
Hey Stink or anyone that can remember. Im gettin my fence posts for the Aero/NFT system and I cant remember the length of them. I know they r 4x4 posts but just cant remember the length. Also I couldnt remember what the distance between each 2" whole for the pots. This might sound to specific but whatever the distance is between the whole's, is it measured from the center of each whole or from the outside diameter of each whole?

Thanks guys I hope you understand!
Click to expand...
I think the posts are basically 96" long. I made my holes 10" apart center to center (that also works out edge to edge if you use the same side of the edges).
 
LionsRoor said:
Nice work, AndyMan.

Yo Dirt -(from what I understand) it has to do with the initial draw the pumps take upon start up - can be as high as 8 amps each... while they operate at less than 1 amp. I think this is the general issue... understandably - if you are maxing a 10 or 15 amp circuit with 3 or more pumps there may be issues in the form of pump failure - or worse - fire? I think I have this issue correct... I currently use 1 pump in my flower room - so I have zero hands-on experience with this issue -but as I look to running multiple pumps I want to have my bases covered... wife hates it when I burn the house down - I hate when I don't have medicine to burn the house down!
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You should be wired into a circuit breaker/breaker box. If the three pumps draw too much power it will trip the breaker. Not a big deal as for the electrical goes but if that happens and you don't know it your plants might be dead before you find out. IMHO, if you got the three pumps into one plug and it has been working, you should be fine. Electrical motors will draw more at start up than what they draw to run, but if they don't have enough juice they tend to hum and turn slowly (not good for them). What's most likely happening in the course of one or two seconds is one motor starts and the other two hesitate. Then the second starts and then the third.

I think, again IMHO, the bigger deal that I haven't heard mentioned here is running all of the grow room circuits off of a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). GFCI is needed in any room with water and it has been pretty standard over the last twenty years to put them in kitchens and bathrooms.
 
andyman said:
here they are. this is to use if you only want one timer and multiple pumps. could use to of these on one timer to run even more pumps.
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I have a question for Andy

With the drawing you have and the contactor you are using, and i may be wrong here, but couldn't you tie the neutrals(White) wires together on the load side and just connect the hot(Black) wires to the contactor? Meaning in the picture of the contactor you have you don't have to connect the white through the contactor but instead you could possibly power another power strip using the space where the white wires are connected??? I mean in basic electrical connections the neutrals are tied together and only the hots get interrupted through a circuit if this make sense???

In other words if i only wanted to run 1 power strip through this set up i would only need a single pole 120V at say 30 amps instead of a double which may be cheaper? or for those that need more get a 3 pole unit to do more?
 
latinrascal said:
I have a question for Andy

With the drawing you have and the contactor you are using, and i may be wrong here, but couldn't you tie the neutrals(White) wires together on the load side and just connect the hot(Black) wires to the contactor? Meaning in the picture of the contactor you have you don't have to connect the white through the contactor but instead you could possibly power another power strip using the space where the white wires are connected??? I mean in basic electrical connections the neutrals are tied together and only the hots get interrupted through a circuit if this make sense???

In other words if i only wanted to run 1 power strip through this set up i would only need a single pole 120V at say 30 amps instead of a double which may be cheaper? or for those that need more get a 3 pole unit to do more?
Click to expand...
you are correct
you could do it like you said and run 2 sets of power strips:bigjoint:
I just had a double pole at work. a single pole would work fine for what I made
 
westmich said:
You should be wired into a circuit breaker/breaker box. If the three pumps draw too much power it will trip the breaker. Not a big deal as for the electrical goes but if that happens and you don't know it your plants might be dead before you find out. IMHO, if you got the three pumps into one plug and it has been working, you should be fine. Electrical motors will draw more at start up than what they draw to run, but if they don't have enough juice they tend to hum and turn slowly (not good for them). What's most likely happening in the course of one or two seconds is one motor starts and the other two hesitate. Then the second starts and then the third.

I think, again IMHO, the bigger deal that I haven't heard mentioned here is running all of the grow room circuits off of a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). GFCI is needed in any room with water and it has been pretty standard over the last twenty years to put them in kitchens and bathrooms.
Click to expand...

All the power will be coming from a breaker first.
this is just to protect the expensive timer, rather than overloading it when say 3-6 pumps all kick on at the same time, and initally draw to much power for the timer (rated at 15amps) not to much for the breaker or anything else, just the timer. all that slow start and amp drawing will make a timer go before its time if your using it on multiple pumps. I just didnt want to buy a bunch of timers. now I only have to buy multiple pumps. unless I made a larger res and ran one big pump that was mounted outside the res so it wouldnt make too much heat.

the gfci is a good idea but not really needed uless your gettin real wet, like my girlfriend.
unless your washing dishes or taking a bath while blow drying you shouldnt need it. be safe though:bigjoint:
 
Sorry, andy, I wasn't speaking so much for your invention as the original concern of multiple timers on one circuit. If you're running three pumps on one circuit and don't have any problems you should be fine. If the breaker is popping then you need another circuit or add something like your set up.

Couple points - please don't take personally or offensively.

1) I would think you are at greater risk of fire from home made electrical appliances than anything you might buy. That's not to say you're not doing a good job of it, but anything you buy has most likely gone through rigorous design review, UL testing, and real world use. When you have all these electrical devices running with multiple splitters and power strips and then add a home made device into the mix it would make me really nervous.

2) Standing water and electrical equipment in the same room more than justifies GFCI. If pot growing were legal and you needed a permit to build a grow room like putting a deck on your house, I am sure the inspector would require it. Think about it - you have multiple elecrtic motors submerged in tubs of water. What if there were a crakced seal or something inside one of them.
 
Jgoasnhja said:
Hey Stink or anyone that can remember. Im gettin my fence posts for the Aero/NFT system and I cant remember the length of them. I know they r 4x4 posts but just cant remember the length. Also I couldnt remember what the distance between each 2" whole for the pots. This might sound to specific but whatever the distance is between the whole's, is it measured from the center of each whole or from the outside diameter of each whole?

Thanks guys I hope you understand!
Click to expand...

I believe per the plans on page 75 the posts are 48" long and the holes are 7" center to center with a 3" gap between the last hold and the end of the fencepost.

Hope that helps,
DP
 
I think its great that you all are taking percautions with this, but stink has been using one timer for all 5 of his pumps with no problems. Thats not to say that something could go wrong and you know murphys law~ he has done all the groundwork for us and until he comments , im stickin with what has proven to work just fine.
 
westmich said:
Sorry, andy, I wasn't speaking so much for your invention as the original concern of multiple timers on one circuit. If you're running three pumps on one circuit and don't have any problems you should be fine. If the breaker is popping then you need another circuit or add something like your set up.

Couple points - please don't take personally or offensively.

1) I would think you are at greater risk of fire from home made electrical appliances than anything you might buy. That's not to say you're not doing a good job of it, but anything you buy has most likely gone through rigorous design review, UL testing, and real world use. When you have all these electrical devices running with multiple splitters and power strips and then add a home made device into the mix it would make me really nervous.

2) Standing water and electrical equipment in the same room more than justifies GFCI. If pot growing were legal and you needed a permit to build a grow room like putting a deck on your house, I am sure the inspector would require it. Think about it - you have multiple elecrtic motors submerged in tubs of water. What if there were a crakced seal or something inside one of them.
Click to expand...

No problem I understand were you were going.
but as for the homemade job I sell appliance parts and repair them for a living. belive it or not I would be affraid of the cheap china junk catching my house on fire rather than what i build. The piece I put together is a lot beefier than most timers you get from a hardware store or wallyworld. or most other electric parts from walleyworld or lowes. Just for example the light fixtures they sell at lows are not UL approve. they use to be but our zoneing here just cut them off. also the lowes gfci and regular outlets have been giving my electricians problems and are in some sort of class action suit rt now. so ive been told. So if lowes is selling stuff that might burn down houses than im not real conserned on something I built myself and know is heavy duty. I plan on puttin it in a sealed box also. the way I took the pics was just so people got the idea. also submersable pumps are made so that they dont catch on fire (underwater for one) if they malfunction I think they just quit. the cords are made to be underwater. like in a fishtank.
hope this helps, no offence taken, sorry for the rambling
and if they do ever legalize it then I will have to put the gfci in. but untill then those bean counters who do zoning can kiss it.
the regular outlets have been working for years with no problems.

Zoneing is like Comunizim. :wall:
 
This probably is not a coincidence but I've got three pumps plugged into a CAP NFT timer. It's the fixed 1 minute on / 4 minute off timer. I've had issues with the timer and it stays on for several minutes at a time. I can't say how long it stays on for because every time I catch it I time it for like 4 minutes that it's on before I unplug it. I bought a new one yesterday actually and replaced the original and I'll return it. If this happens with the new one then I might have to try this device that andy shared with us.

Hey andy - is there any way you could clean up the schematic drawing and provide a parts list?

Thanks,
DP
 
I just put my foot in my mouth..lol i was searching around the thread looking for the first comments on andys design and i found that stink actually did have a problem with his timer and he thought it was agreat idea. so.. yes i wanna build this thing!!

and like dragon said above~ for the lame electrician ducks..clean that up a little so we can get to work..

THANKS ANDY a great contribution to the fam.
 
DIRTHAWKER said:
I just put my foot in my mouth..lol i was searching around the thread looking for the first comments on andys design and i found that stink actually did have a problem with his timer and he thought it was agreat idea. so.. yes i wanna build this thing!!

and like dragon said above~ for the lame electrician ducks..clean that up a little so we can get to work..

THANKS ANDY a great contribution to the fam.
Click to expand...

I plan on doing a better schematic and a build list soon. Prob will have time to do it cause of the holiday season. also I plan on doing the build for my timer I posted in previous post with pic.
thanks everyone and happy growingbongsmilie
 
Bit off subject but I just got a 4bag bubble bag kit. Its from fleabay and is not canvas on the side just the netting material. I forget what the micron size is for the larger one but the smaller ones are 100uf, 55uf, and 35uf .
the problem Im haveing is after the hash is dry and pressed in a press kinda thing. it doesnt bubble when you smoke it. shouldnt it do that, from what i read. any help will help. the stuff caught in the 100uf screen sucks and taste like ass. so I dont smoke it. could I use it for cannabutter?
thanks all
 
andyman said:
Bit off subject but I just got a 4bag bubble bag kit. Its from fleabay and is not canvas on the side just the netting material. I forget what the micron size is for the larger one but the smaller ones are 100uf, 55uf, and 35uf .
the problem Im haveing is after the hash is dry and pressed in a press kinda thing. it doesnt bubble when you smoke it. shouldnt it do that, from what i read. any help will help. the stuff caught in the 100uf screen sucks and taste like ass. so I dont smoke it. could I use it for cannabutter?
thanks all
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as for the stuff that sucks make butter or oil out of it but as far as it bubbling when you smoke. my bubble hash,finger hash,or cream hash (pressed kief) dont bubble while smoking . correct me if im wrong but i think its just called bubble hash cause thats the way you make it hope this helps happy growing
 
Bubble hash... pure should bubble when burned and leave little residue.. What was the quality of the finest grade that you got? What was the color?
A lot has to due with the quality of plant you are using, as well as how the trim is prepared (super crispy dry vs dollar-bill-yall) and of the course the extraction... I'm also guessing it has a lot to do with skill/technique that you will get with practice. Just because it doesn't bubble.. doesn't mean it isn't "almost" bubble grade :bigjoint: I bet you will get it with a little time..

And definitely make canna butter out of that foul hash!!
 
repvip said:
Bubble hash... pure should bubble when burned and leave little residue.. What was the quality of the finest grade that you got? What was the color?
A lot has to due with the quality of plant you are using, as well as how the trim is prepared (super crispy dry vs dollar-bill-yall) and of the course the extraction... I'm also guessing it has a lot to do with skill/technique that you will get with practice. Just because it doesn't bubble.. doesn't mean it isn't "almost" bubble grade :bigjoint: I bet you will get it with a little time..

And definitely make canna butter out of that foul hash!!
Click to expand...

Thats just what I thought. several batches were made. some ok quality from my first outdoor grow. and some from my 2nd (this year). both outdoor. 2nd major grow was awsome and great quality. now the little bit of oil/tar looking substance I scraped out of my press afterwards bubbled and had killer taste. but the rest is lacking. this was all made from close leaf trimming that was crispy dry. all was a light brown/tan color(the hash). I allmost drank the water from the bucket it smelled so good. lol
water was green/brown . after i pressed the light brown bit from the bags and set the press on a little heater over night. it turned into little darker brown cakes. Its probly cause I only used leaf trim and no bud. but the leaf had many crystals on it and was only the close up leaves , not any large fan leaves that had no crystals. I also pressed the kief from my rolling tray that has a mirror and screen on it. they call them "suger shacks" I got one last year on fleebay and it catches a lot of trics.
them cakes taste even better cause they are from dry kief.
thanks for your help, sorry about the ramlbing:weed:
 
andyman said:
here they are. this is to use if you only want one timer and multiple pumps. could use to of these on one timer to run even more pumps.
Click to expand...

Oh, the andyman can ;)

Not too difficult! I bought my contactor at an "electrical wholesale supply" store for $26. I got the 120vAC 20A two pole. I should have got the 30A...

It's a cool and simple concept now that I understand it :) The contactor has an electromagnetic coil that is powered by the "trigger". The magnet pulls the contactor down to complete the circuit of the extension cord, which is powered by it's own outlet, not the timer.

I changed the trigger cord since taking these pics to a three wire cord... and I also plan on getting some sort of metal or plastic case to enclose it in.
 

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