Grow tents kill plants

OregonMeds said:

Everything else I've read says it's the glue used to bond the different layers of plastic. Toxic recycled plastic would get some media attention I would think, since more than grow tents would be at risk.

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yup...reread up on it...

but it still leads us to the same conclusion in any case...HYDROHUTS SUCK...stick with the darkroom if youre using tents

starsailor said:

I have a BudBox and have had no problems at all. Its heatproof, fireproof, lightproof. I solves every growroom problem at once. The only thing that is crucial is extraction.

I grow under a 400w Sodium. Its gives off a lot of heat. Plants need ventilation. They wont get any in a growtent without ventilation. I have a 1mX1mX2m BudBox, its the Large size. With the right ventilation you can have perfect growing conditions. Check out my grow journal.

My set up is here: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/109857-my-grow-room.html

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sounds like you and me have the same setup (large budbox with 400w sodium). i have a 100mm fan extracting hot air and a household desk fan pushing in new air. i have had slight yellowing but i have now flushed my plants so just waiting to see if nutes were the problem.

ripz said:

when you decide to buy fans for your tent get the biggest ducting that will fit your baffles then get fans the next size up with reducers to fit the ducting add speed controller for two fans and your sorted, the fans will run quieter as they arent being run at full speed and they will be more than adequete to deal with the hottest summers and the coldest winters thanks to the speed controller, add a thermostat into it and its automated just leave it to do its thing. takes all the hassle out and gives you perfect temps constantly.
plus if you ever decide to enlarge your op and get another tent chances are the fans could be run on a splitter and cool both tents
ripz

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i already have a 100mm extractor kit and another fan pushing in new air, but you are quite right, using a bigger fan than your ducting will pull air through like crazy. i would have done this if my kit did,nt come as a complete setup. a friend of mine does the same and it works very well.

i would upgrade to 5" extractor with a 400w m8 its not too bad this time of year but in the summer it will get hot

ripz said:

i would upgrade to 5" extractor with a 400w m8 its not too bad this time of year but in the summer it will get hot

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i,m probably gonna go big as possible sometime after christmas. was thinking about getting a cool tube and a new fan for it. that way i can keep the old fan and filter going.

IMO, cooltubes are one of the best air cooled reflectors you can buy for your buck. Ideal for keeping temps down on your growlight, and streamlined so no air gets trapped in the corner somewhere in a more conventional square hood. Although, the cooltube doesnt provide that same light coverage that a square hood would, forcing every single lumen downward and spread out to cover a bigger space though. i dont know really what the technical difference would be as far as lumens lost or anything like that. All i DO know is that cooltubes work brilliantly. In my tent man, i have the light fixed to the cieling of the tent now, and the plants just keep on beefin up bigger n better man. about 100% difference than when i used my last setup without the tube.

I love my budboxx. I got the htg "euro hood", a 400 watt hps, a valueline 6 inch inline (110$), a 6 inch charcoal filter, and a normal house fan for circulation. It stays the same on average as the ambient tempt. In winter and at night it has been getting cooler and now, lol, i got a little thrift shop heater. In summer to keep it cool if out side temp gets hotter than 85 you are gonna need an air conditioner outside in the room or a portable one hooked up to vent. No way around that. Also i use passive vent cuz its winter but a 30 4 inch fan would help a few degrees i bet.

I love my tent. Ten times easier to cool than a closet, bathroom, and a normal room. Keeps the smell contained so i can filter that shit.

I got the cheap tent, 4x4x6.5 for 130 plus shipping off ebay. My only complaint is that it has 3 vents instrad of 4. Easy fix! I gonna buy that 99 dollar plus free shipping next. I love to ebay!!! rofl. you see i feel like this is an add, a crappy add.

K1Ng5p4d3 said:

IMO, cooltubes are one of the best air cooled reflectors you can buy for your buck. Ideal for keeping temps down on your growlight, and streamlined so no air gets trapped in the corner somewhere in a more conventional square hood. Although, the cooltube doesnt provide that same light coverage that a square hood would, forcing every single lumen downward and spread out to cover a bigger space though. i dont know really what the technical difference would be as far as lumens lost or anything like that. All i DO know is that cooltubes work brilliantly. In my tent man, i have the light fixed to the cieling of the tent now, and the plants just keep on beefin up bigger n better man. about 100% difference than when i used my last setup without the tube.

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nah the coolstar/sputnik reflectors are much better check my grow thread. you lose something like 30% of your lumens with the reflector on the cooltube without you lose about 40% so your basically turning your 600 into a 400 or 400 into a 250, the plants will grow better because of the better enviornmental conditions and your yield could well improve depending on how bad the conditions were before but if you used the sputnik you would have all the benefits with none of the negatives so your yield would go up in a massive way.

cool tubes ov any sort are a bad idea they suck the light up so if your getting a cool tube just get a lower watt Light cool tubes are just lazy quick fix that lower your watts on your light more electric for less wattage you guys must be mad lol

are you saying all air cooled reflectors are shit cos i've got one running next to a standard one and the light output is not affected at all.

Cool tubes dont suck up the light...

The problems is probably more to do with the types of small reflecters that come with the cool tubes. Just pop another standard reflector over the top like the one in this pic.

ONEeyedWILLY444 said:

sounds like you and me have the same setup (large budbox with 400w sodium). i have a 100mm fan extracting hot air and a household desk fan pushing in new air. i have had slight yellowing but i have now flushed my plants so just waiting to see if nutes were the problem.

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Yeah, set up is almost identical.

When I had yellowing, i searched everything to work out what was wrong.
Turned out the pots were too small! Put them in bigger pots, they rocketted!

it dont matter what reflector you use it will still leech valuble light thats what they do
i got a 600 watt hps my light if i put a cool tube next to it would be like a 400 and thats fact difference is noticiable when harvest comes ive noticed as the good old saying goes a gram per watt so why use a cool tube witch leachs ya light it pointless a good extracotor and your away ask any professional grower and most will say cool tubes are affective but downgrade your light setup if you really need one then fair anuff but other wise keep away or if you wanna werl get a test going and il prove ther
not worth the money
if any one wanna test this fact by doing a journal one with one without
i have a 600 watt hps i use for both veg and flower so if you have same light lets go
and also we shud use same nutes ect

I see no difference with my two 400s except I can get them quite close to the tops. Yield is the same, heat is less. [shrugs] we obviously have different experiences with them.

Are you attempting to say that just the light loss of glass is 30%, because there are scientific technical data sheet thingies that all seem to say otherwise.

Note also that some HID bulbs come in versions that don't have an outer glass shell, so in turn they must be 30% brighter than the bulbs almost all of us are using right now.

Thanks for pointing that out, my 250 will soon be equal to a 400.
(wink for the sarcasm challenged)

grow tents are ok,but they are not light proof,i pretty much had to build a panda poly room around mine.when you have the passive intake vents opening it lets in all kinds of light,those are the flaps on the bottom were the new air comes in when old air is exausted,before this i used just 1x2 and panda poly and velcro,it worked just as well as my tent probably better,but it depends on your set up.i thought the tent was going to be easier and better to use,i was wrong,but like i say it depends on your set up,my tents 2 months old and it already has problems with the zippers,and its starting to have more and more holes become visible.

also the smell it gives off when hot smells like burnt hair and rubber.

Burnt hair and rubber smell? People will be thinking you're having some rather interesting sex.

Yeah trapper that is pretty much how the earlier ones acted. Apparently they have fixed those issues with the mylar version of the tents where there was light leaks in the seams and little speckled holes, as well as not having that toxic smell when theyre hot which was apparently associated with the white plastic liner.

Does anyone have the mylar tent, if so do they still have those little light leak pin holes and the smell when theyre hot?

OregonMeds said:

Burnt hair and rubber smell? People will be thinking you're having some rather interesting sex.

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i wish,my traps have not bared much fruit lately lol,like an old trapper once said,"my roman days are over my lights are going out,what used to be my candle light is now my water spout".