Just my 2 cents if you have tried a couple different ways of getting your water then there is another factor at work and I suspect it is your nute combination. I would cut the nutes in half and go from there. I have a buddy who had this happen, he changed up his feeding and didnt have a problem since..
God damn PH!!
- Thread starter W N L
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Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
The cal/mag is fine, keep using that. I wouldn't switch nutes just yet, they're not the issue. And regarding the guy telling you the pH is fine, it's not, not for hydro.
iPACKEDthisBOWL4TWO
Well-Known Member
I never stated the that a HIGH Ph is fine sir. What I DID say was fluctuating Ph IS FINE. Do not misquote me again please.
W N L
Active Member
yea, PH should be at 5.5 to 6.5 right? Its not good to have it at 7.. I have thought that fromt he start. Thanks again man for your input, you know its appreciated, still can't rep you though, must have to spread 1k rep before re reppng for gods sake
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
Ok then, fluctuation is ok, but not up to 7 in hydro it isn't. Better?
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
Don't worry about it, reps really don't mean anything anyhow.
the plumber
Active Member
Total alkalinity is important for stable PH. you may need to increase the total alkalinity of your water. Important to get total alkalinity right THEN adjust ph.
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
This is correct, and why I recommended cutting your water with 20% tap. Don't confuse alkalinity with alkaline pH value, in this regard it refers to the waters' resistance to pH change.
Blankfeeler
Active Member
I have bad experiences with some ph downs! They seem like poison to plants! Find an organic downer like he said "cider-vinegar"! Also not good to bring your ph that low that fast, bring it down gradually!
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
Earth Juice makes organic up and down, they work well, though I don't even have to use them anymore. The bottles I own have lasted me almost five years now, and they're not even halfway gone.
sk8disgruntled
Well-Known Member
same hear ive had ej up and down for 3 years still got half or more left
Snow Crash
Well-Known Member
I would like to address how the nutrient solution is being prepared.
What process are you using to mix everything up WNL. How long are you allowing it to rest?
I find that pH fluctuations are normal and should be expected and anticipated. To alleviate large swings in pH it is important to allow your nutrient solution time to rest before using it on your plants. To prepare my own solution I will mix my A+B solutions in water and allow them to rest for 1 hour before adding the rest of the nutrients. I would then allow this solution to balance for another 30 minutes. Then pH to the right level. Then rest for 1-2 hours. Then pH again. Then rest overnight, or 8 to 12 hours. Then pH balance one last time.
By the third balancing in 12 hours I find my nutrient solution will not deviate more than 0.1pH in a day when resting in the reservoir. When applied to the plants you need to be aware that the removal of elements from the solution as the plant consumes them is going to alter the pH, so you will always need to be very mindful of your pH in hydroponics. I wouldn't even think about hydro without a pH meter, much less a constant monitoring.
Nitric Acid pH down from Technaflora holds pH much more stable, but it has a greater impact on my measured EC than GH phosphoric acid pH down. As a result, I reduce my projected N ratio in relation to PK and Ca levels in order to compensate for the nitrates and nitrites provided by the acid.
Some systems are pH balanced and stable when you run all the stuff and you have reasonably clean water to begin with. Having a better nutrient system could improve your stability. Consider Botanicare CNS 17 Hydro, GH FloraDuo, or AN Sensi A+B pH perfect.
What process are you using to mix everything up WNL. How long are you allowing it to rest?
I find that pH fluctuations are normal and should be expected and anticipated. To alleviate large swings in pH it is important to allow your nutrient solution time to rest before using it on your plants. To prepare my own solution I will mix my A+B solutions in water and allow them to rest for 1 hour before adding the rest of the nutrients. I would then allow this solution to balance for another 30 minutes. Then pH to the right level. Then rest for 1-2 hours. Then pH again. Then rest overnight, or 8 to 12 hours. Then pH balance one last time.
By the third balancing in 12 hours I find my nutrient solution will not deviate more than 0.1pH in a day when resting in the reservoir. When applied to the plants you need to be aware that the removal of elements from the solution as the plant consumes them is going to alter the pH, so you will always need to be very mindful of your pH in hydroponics. I wouldn't even think about hydro without a pH meter, much less a constant monitoring.
Nitric Acid pH down from Technaflora holds pH much more stable, but it has a greater impact on my measured EC than GH phosphoric acid pH down. As a result, I reduce my projected N ratio in relation to PK and Ca levels in order to compensate for the nitrates and nitrites provided by the acid.
Some systems are pH balanced and stable when you run all the stuff and you have reasonably clean water to begin with. Having a better nutrient system could improve your stability. Consider Botanicare CNS 17 Hydro, GH FloraDuo, or AN Sensi A+B pH perfect.
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
This is all very good advice, and makes me want to redact my comment about not changing your nutrient line just yet. I won't, but again this is all very solid information. You say you're using Fox Farm nutrients, but are you using their hydro line, or the soil line? There is a difference in all of the ratio's, and you don't use the Big Bloom in hydro.
I don't go that far when balancing my solution, but that's only because I don't need to. My pH is always on point, and I'm in soil using organics, so it's less of a concern for me.
Snow Crash
Well-Known Member
I've been running Coco for a long time and despite being very forgiving in pH I still try to stay dialed. I've also been running DynaGro ProTekt at 3-4ml per gallon which takes my pH up quite a bit requiring me to use about 1.5ml per gallon of Technaflora pH down on a 1.0ec solution. It usually balances out around 6.7 which would be fine if I were in soil but unfortunately I need that extra little bit for the hydroponic treatment of the media.
I could probably remove a step or two from the equation, but I like to ensure that my A+B nutrients mix properly. People on one part systems, or with few additional additives (like Fox Farms), shouldn't really have an issue so long as periods of time are allotted between pH balancing prior to using it.
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I've just worked out a good formula for me that balances itself and stays that way. I use most of the GO line, along with Silica Blast, Calmag+, molasses, a little Hydroplex at times, Hygrozyme and Cannazyme (alternated), and when the mood hits me a little Purple Maxx (new formula). I'm experimenting on a few plants with Shooting Powder. The jury is still out, but so far I like what I see.
Really though, I don't feed a whole lot even though you'd think so with the above list but I make my own soil that has a lot of goodies already. I really like the results, my yield is pretty consistently around 1gram/watt with a month or so veg. The quality is outstanding, it burns completely clean and the flavors are great.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
ive grown in soil for over a 15 years and just in the last several months went to hydro and will never go back to soil lol
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
If I could do true hydro-organic I would. I have been considering setting up a flood and drain using a coir based medium similar to Roots but airier, using Smart Pots. If I get bored (which happens a lot) I'll give it a go.