getting rid of apical dominance could bring higher yields?

dank smoker420

dank smoker420

Well-Known Member
I'm class we learned about apical dominance and that IAA is produced and sent town the stem. lateral shoots only start to grow after after they are a certain distance(minimal IAA) from the apical meristem. if there way away to stop the production of IAA after about the 3rd or 4th node. we could get plants that have minimal apical growth and maximum or a lot of axillary growth. I understand that it would be similar to what is already being done which is mainlining but that takes a couple weeks longer for the plants to react and grow with little mass above the soil. i feel this would be faster, but more advanced. just a thought
 
MrEDuck

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
LST works quite well for me. Bend the growth shoot under where you want the branch to start and keep the tip below it. It will grow. Some strains react faster than others to this.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
MrEDuck said:
LST works quite well for me. Bend the growth shoot under where you want the branch to start and keep the tip below it. It will grow. Some strains react faster than others to this.
Click to expand...
That's just redistributing the auxins. You can't get rid of a plant's auxins just like you can't get rid of its amino acids. It is what it is. Now, you can manipulate those hormones by topping and applications of certain hormones.

Ever grafted citrus? The trick to getting the new scion bud to break, to push foliage, is to take the rootstock and bend it over and tie it to the pot with a rubber band, BELOW the newly grafted bud, the scion wood. As soon as the cambium tissues join between the rootstock and the scion, the bud will push based on a redistribution of auxins that once collected in the apex of the rootstock.

If you want good yields, learn what makes a plant tick which means producing (and keeping) the most amount of root and foliage mass you can. It's just that simple.

UB
 
P

plaguedog

Active Member
I've had much better success by tying clones down to keep an even canopy then topping. For plants from seed, I usually top. Clones I tie down the main shoot and then tie down any shoots that are growing quicker. 14-20 days later they are ready to flower and I usually have a very even plant with 4-8 main branches. I'll cut clones from the clone on the slower, smaller shoots.
 
woodsmantoker

woodsmantoker

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
That's just redistributing the auxins. You can't get rid of a plant's auxins just like you can't get rid of its amino acids. It is what it is. Now, you can manipulate those hormones by topping and applications of certain hormones.

Ever grafted citrus? The trick to getting the new scion bud to break, to push foliage, is to take the rootstock and bend it over and tie it to the pot with a rubber band, BELOW the newly grafted bud, the scion wood. As soon as the cambium tissues join between the rootstock and the scion, the bud will push based on a redistribution of auxins that once collected in the apex of the rootstock.

If you want good yields, learn what makes a plant tick which means producing (and keeping) the most amount of root and foliage mass you can. It's just that simple.

UB
Click to expand...
"Now, what you can do is manipulate those hormones"

Though topping and "application of" are not all... JS.. carry on. Too weak to debate however, too awake not to poke at ol brother buck. ;) love ya pal. Take care folks
 
P

plaguedog

Active Member
Thecouchlock said:
I top clones all the time and it works... I don't know why you aren't having luck with it.
Click to expand...
It's not that I dont have luck with it, I can control the canopy level much more then topping them. And I feel it saves up to a week of time so I can flower more plants.
 
twostrokenut

twostrokenut

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
You have to have a plant with opposing nodes to get 4 uniform tops, see my thread.
Click to expand...
Oh I have and link it often....admittedly not the entire thread though its pretty long. I was speaking of the sexually mature plant needing 2 cuts for the 4 tops....rather than your thread that achieves 4 tops from the 1 snip of the seed plant.....correct?
 
ProdigalSun

ProdigalSun

Well-Known Member
Correct. Top above the second true node. I just did this, and I'm considering making this standard operating procedure for all my plants.
 
M

MidwestUnderground

Member
plaguedog said:
I've had much better success by tying clones down to keep an even canopy then topping. For plants from seed, I usually top. Clones I tie down the main shoot and then tie down any shoots that are growing quicker. 14-20 days later they are ready to flower and I usually have a very even plant with 4-8 main branches. I'll cut clones from the clone on the slower, smaller shoots.
Click to expand...
The location you cut clones from May be the reason why you’ve gotten poorer results from topping clones vs lst
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top