I want to see Als answer, but yeah you can do it. I did. And my clones are flowering. And I know Al has said. No veg time for clones. So you are rooted lets go. I even root in my 12/12 box cause I don't have a dual stage box set up. I am working on my veg chamber now, I just need to buy the lighting, the rest is done. And I need to get the ventialtion done on my flowerin closet and I am good to go.
Your plants look pretty good, aside from being a little nitrogen and phosphorus deficient- see purpling stems and yellowing lower leaves. Always better to shoot low with ferts than high! The problems I see are fixable.
These pics appear earlier in this thread, but I'll repeat them for your convenience. If you go through the admittedly very long thread, you will find these pics and others.
When I wrote the the lead post, I was getting about 13-16z per tray every 2 weeks. The 2lb figure would be for a month at that time. Those citations are in the first page of the thread.hey al...
sorry for the redundancy, but i dont feel like scavenging through 100 pages to find the answer..
on average, what is one plant yielding dry?
i think you said your harvesting around 2 lbs per tray??? and you have aprox 25 plants per tray???? so 32oz/25=~1.25 oz per plant?
whats your figures again?
ty
Thanks, but some days I feel less like 'da man' and more like 'DUH man.'
All Sweet Tooth #4 from Spice of Life Seeds.
2 things; a) you probably won't get your best production until you've been running it for a few months, and b) I can't speak to the production ability of a 400 in flowering, haven't used one to flower for about 7 years- been using 1000s. Things would have to be going pretty badly for you to get under 1/2z per, though.
Thanks for your kindness, VV. And thanks for looking after the thread for a spell when I'd had about a gutful of internet cannabis forums.
Oh, I reckon you'll work it out.
Ignore the advice in the cloning thread about putting weak veg nutes in the watering soln given to clones before they set root. I found that the N caused slowed rooting. Just tapwater, pH adj to 5.8 & add 50% grade H2O2 @ 1ml/litre.
You can use CO2 to murder any bug in the op by raising the room concentration to 10,000ppm and closing up the room for an hour or two. If you were in the room, you'd meet the fate of your bugs. Be careful. CO2 is colourless and odourless.
Yep, you have lots of material for cuttings- but have you sexed them yet?
For the same reason H2O2 is not compatible with organic nutes. H2O2 is a powerful oxidiser and will break bonds in dead organic materials' molecular structures. If you break the bonds, the material goes back to the carbon cycle- in little bits made up of materials that H2O2 can't break down (ie. materials already oxidised), if there's any such material in what you're oxidising with your H2O2.
Of course, taking some cuttings is a great way to sex your donors. Just make sure you mark your cuttings so you know which plant they came from.
. i hope that made sense
Do you know anyone who works with any of the native Aussie fish or reptiles?Now, if you want a finicky plant, try raising some Australian natives, which keel over dead when there's a box of ferts with any phosphorus in it within the same time zone...
do you have to use aircon or can you just get C.A.P. 2 Timer Temp/Humidity/CO2 Controller which will disable CO2 injection if the temperature or humidity levels that you specify are exceeded, activating an exhaust outlet which can control ventilation equipment. Once again I know we have covered this a few times but earlier you said someone should only use aircon as a last resort.Yep, CO2, done properly, will bump your op's output 20-50%.
The operative word is properly.
By properly, I mean a sealed grow room, mainly cooled by aircon and CO2 from a tank, metered and measured with a controller device. Cooltubes reduce the thermal load while keeping CO2 in the room.
With CO2, you can run your room temps at 32C, otherwise waaaaay too hot. I'd hold it to 30C, myself. The combination of a CO2 enriched atmosphere, high humidity (70-80%) and higher temp makes for much faster growth- you could probably take a week out of an 8 week flowering sked and yield the same as w/o CO2, or you can just run for 8wks and get more weight.
It's killer stuff, done right. It is killer stuff done wrong, too.
That's how I did it. I sent 13 plants to flower (6F, 6M, 1H). Cut clones from all pre-flower, tossed the H and M clones and vwalah, got future moms + next round of plants to go into flower, plus I've got bud on the way soonerhow many weeks in,from seed, do you start to take clones to sex?
i think it would be easier to just take the clone(s) and then start to flower the donor plant, so you keep the plant(s) short- and toss any males you might have you along with your clones ,unless you are going to be breeding
then you keep the clone(s) from your best plant after you harvest!!!!
i just started some seed and i think i will try this technique when the plants are one month in....
whats your thought on this al?
and thanks in advance
. Some rooted faster/better than others (Also taking that into consideration when choosing mum). 2 different strains, 4 very different plants.
Hmmm I was thinking that it was the temperatures at night that were getting to them (as low as 61F). I was under the impression that that could turn stalks purple as well, but I may be wrong on this. Either way, I gave them a nice feeding, and I'm sure they'll appreciate it!
What do you think about clipping off the new growth on the sides from the veg time and throwing them straight into flower? That is to say, trim them down to look like how your clones look on day 1. Essentially they'd be at the same point as your clones with only one growth tip. Would this solve the issue of fluffy buds? I'm hoping so, cuz that's what I did last night =P
I chose the four bushiest as mothers and am vegging those (2 Chrystal, 1 Indica-dominant Satori, 1 Sativa-dominant satori). In case my previous plan doesn't work out, I'll still have a plan B!