Foxtailing

Father Ramirez

Well-Known Member
I think autos are a disservice to the cannabis gene pool. Nasty ruderalis genes in the mix. I consider them retards. Can't clone them, pointless.

Rant completed. lol
HEAR HEAR!! The rush to auto-fy every f’ing strain reminds me of my favorite line in The Hunt For The Red October when the Russian ensign says to the submarine captain after the captain has removed the safeties from his torpedoes, and they lock onto his own heat signal, ensuring their demise, “You arrogant ass. You’ve killed us”
 
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Renfro

Well-Known Member
I am new here. Can you explain to me the steps, how to give someone 'thumbs up' for their post? I couldn't figure out. I don't know where this button is located.
It will just take you a minute to get the privilege. Then it will show in the bottom right hand corner of each post. I will give you some likes on your posts to help speed that along.
 

kiwisunset

Active Member
I think autos are a disservice to the cannabis gene pool. Nasty ruderalis genes in the mix. I consider them retards. Can't clone them, pointless.

Rant completed. lol

Here Here mate.. I've not said too much on forums regarding autos as I uderstand folks reasons for using them ..But all you're really doing is contributing to the decline in genetic diversity.. Imagine in say 10 -15 yrs time when all you can buy from breeders is autos.. No regs or fems, just autos.. Reminds me of a certain company with their terminator seeds (monsanto).
 

eakeeper

Active Member
It will just take you a minute to get the privilege. Then it will show in the bottom right hand corner of each post. I will give you some likes on your posts to help speed that along.
Ah! Make sense. Thanks for the explanation and also big thanks to you for pressing that 'like' button!
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Also postulated that many sativa varieties evolved in humid climates as the less dense bud structure wasn't as prone to botrytis.
Also aequatorial sativa grows in a climate of high rH under intense light and much rain. Sativa buds are more flurry and less dense when compared to indica and foxtailing will make this matter more worse. Maybe such a bud structure is actually helpful in this climate?

I actually like foxtailing alot.
It seems to me that instead of the buds getting old (evolving) constant new sites grow and trichomes on these new spots don't show amber until later, so if you harvest at your usual time the smoke will be more uplifting and less stoneing. But you could as well choose to delay harvest by 1-2 weeks to get more weight.

I also believe that foxtailing will increase potency by offering more surface for trichomes instead of big heavy nugs, that actually add more weight but decrease surface-to-weight-ratio.
It's also said that generally Sativa-buds have a tendency to produce stronger weed than typical Indica-buds, so this may be another hint that the form and structure of the bud has something to do with its potency.

Foxtails just look so special:weed:

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IMG_20191007_205434.jpg
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Here Here mate.. I've not said too much on forums regarding autos as I uderstand folks reasons for using them ..But all you're really doing is contributing to the decline in genetic diversity.. Imagine in say 10 -15 yrs time when all you can buy from breeders is autos.. No regs or fems, just autos.. Reminds me of a certain company with their terminator seeds (monsanto).
But there are so many homegrowers which make seeds on their own, and sometimes with outstanding results, and these traits gain entrance into the market via cut, seeds, new lines etc if you take a look at seedfinder.eu they've listed more than 10 thousand recorded Cannabis strains bred by thousands of different people - you have all freedom to get what you want.
Well, there are people who ask reasenably about autofems - for example guerilla outdoor grows, and ofc the disability to take clones will result in more selling of seeds... but as long as reg seeds are being asked from specific enlightened customers otherwise they won't sell a shit. Auto's indoor? No thanks!
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Exactly what I was saying.
You know, since I've started reading RIU on a daily basis I have to say you seem to be one of the most reasonable and experienced grower here around. Coudl I perhaps just ask you about something that came up here, too:
Keep in mind that with the organic soil and bottled nutrients it is easy to overdo nitrogen. With organic soil you want to wait until you actually see a deficiency starting before you feed anything and then feed gently only what is missing so no adding nitrogen if only potassium is lacking for example.
In another forum there are a boatload of ppl the opinion that you should always feed organic grows at maximal recommended strength because "you can't overfeed". I've had a terrible long 6 week veg due to reduced nearly stunted growth because of N overloaded clawing darkgreen leaves... and they said you shouldn't flush... hell, only when I changed the pattern and went back to EC + pH meter, and generally lowered EC in soil, could I get the plants back to healthy green and swift vegetative growth. So from my own experience I can say they're wrong when they say that in an organic grow a plant can actively choose to take what it wants... but why are they claiming this? Maybe there is a indeed a mechanism at largw which could do so?
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
You know, since I've started reading RIU on a daily basis I have to say you seem to be one of the most reasonable and experienced grower here around. Coudl I perhaps just ask you about something that came up here, too:

In another forum there are a boatload of ppl the opinion that you should always feed organic grows at maximal recommended strength because "you can't overfeed". I've had a terrible long 6 week veg due to reduced nearly stunted growth because of N overloaded clawing darkgreen leaves... and they said you shouldn't flush... hell, only when I changed the pattern and went back to EC + pH meter, and generally lowered EC in soil, could I get the plants back to healthy green and swift vegetative growth. So from my own experience I can say they're wrong when they say that in an organic grow a plant can actively choose to take what it wants... but why are they claiming this? Maybe there is a indeed a mechanism at largw which could do so?
I am by no means an organic expert, not even a novice as I have never once grown organically. With that out of the way I will say my thoughts on the subject but take it with a grain of salt, this isn't something I have spent any time thinking about and this is all spur of the moment postulations that don't even have any real world organic experience to back it up. No proof, not even any pudding. lol

For starters I will say that it is more difficult to overfeed with organics. That said, it can be done, especially with nitrogen.

Some "organic" nutrients are minerals and others are organic plant material / animal waste that are broken down / decomposed by bacteria, thus chelated for easy uptake. With the minerals we are relying on the compound itself, say gypsum, to break down at a predictable rate, but one could still have too much. With the organics that are broken down by bacteria we are relying on the bacteria to regulate the rate of availability.

Another factor is warmer soil will allow the bacteria to work faster, therefore providing nutrients at a faster rate than cooler soil.

Bottled "organic" nutrients are often already broken down fully or in part and therefore regulation is up to the grower.

pH is also of course a factor, not only in nutrient availability for many of the mineral sourced nutrients but also in the growth of the bacteria that will chelate nutrients for uptake. Different bacteria will multiply faster and therefore work harder when the pH is in their Goldilocks zone.

Those are just my thoughts on the matter, and I just made it all up right now off the top of my head using the grey matter. So take it with a grain of salt please.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Bacteria are also responsible for chelating some of the mineral nutrients I just have no clue exactly what ones, phosphorous though, would likely be one IMO.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
For starters I will say that it is more difficult to overfeed with organics. That said, it can be done, especially with nitrogen.

Some "organic" nutrients are minerals and others are organic plant material / animal waste that are broken down / decomposed by bacteria, thus chelated for easy uptake. With the minerals we are relying on the compound itself, say gypsum, to break down at a predictable rate, but one could still have too much. With the organics that are broken down by bacteria we are relying on the bacteria to regulate the rate of availability.

Another factor is warmer soil will allow the bacteria to work faster, therefore providing nutrients at a faster rate than cooler soil.

Bottled "organic" nutrients are often already broken down fully or in part and therefore regulation is up to the grower.

pH is also of course a factor, not only in nutrient availability for many of the mineral sourced nutrients but also in the growth of the bacteria that will chelate nutrients for uptake. Different bacteria will multiply faster and therefore work harder when the pH is in their Goldilocks zone.
Well I can agree with all of this. :clap:
I also find that the present of proper mykkorhiza will greatly increase the availability of the plant to have access to nutes/ the soil in general.

The BioBizz organic fert line offers 30% instant bio-availability on their products. The rest have to do the bacteria which thrive better in warm and more humid soil. I like to isolate the pots and care in advance for a good airsupport, so I can always water sooner w/o signs of overwatering.
 
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