For All Cap Ebb and Grow Users

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
how about trying this, disconnect your hood from the cold air window right, leave it open ended but leave your fan on the other side of the hoods so it sucks hot air from the hood and room. actually you can have your fan blow/push air thru the hoods or suck, as long as its open ended on one side you will achieve amazing negative pressure, the negative pressure will draw a very strong breese thru your duct and will circulate thru your grow tent and exit thru the hoods, so instead of using that nice 35F air to Only cool your hoods it will cool the entire room. that 435cfm is at its limits with 2000w, i bet you struggle to keep it under 87 right? this is only an issue if your injecting co2, but i suggest you shut off the co2 if you have it and let the fresh air whirl around in your grow, for a little added safty you can go to home depot or lowes and pick up a HEPA filter replacement for an air purifier, they are like $13. problem solved and enjoy your 75F room =)
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
You're sucking air from the window, warming it up by putting it through the hoods, then blowing that hot air into your house? Is that right? Where is your carbon filter?

I will assume that you have a carbon filter inside the top of the tent sucking out hot air? Put your hood in between the carbon filter and the exhaust fan. Then blow that air outside. Your intake fan doesn't need to be that big, but you can put a speed controller on it to adjust the amount of cold air your blowing into your house. Inside your tent should be about 5 degrees warmer than outside the tent if you set it up like that.

Here is a VERY good guide of various configurations that will work. Some good illustrations too. http://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/exhaust-fan-setup.html
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
Amateur question. But the rockwool is always to be above the flood line never below right? So it never gets wet.
yes, a freshly rooted clone or seedling is most likely dependant on the starting media(RW) for water, if it is constantly soaked it will deprive that very fragile and young root system of oxygen, a good 1/2inch isnt much, but think about it, your plant wouldnt be ready for transplant unless it has an inch or 2 of roots, just as important roots act like scavengers, this will encourage them to go and seek out water sources, with the water coming to the roots too often will slow down root growth and in essence become lazy
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
Boxing, dont go run out and spend money on my account, i used GH flora series too and i seen so many people have good results, i hate the stuff and i tried lucas, label dose and another recipe, all i ever had were unstable PHand PPM, nute burns and deficiencies, and found myself with a new issue every week which led to a flush, within 10hours the PH would go from 5.5. to 7.0 and i would have salt everywhere. for my exact recipe i go.....

new rooted clones

10ml/gal PBP grow
5ml/gal Cal-Mag
10ML/gal Liquid Karma
8ML/gal Hygrozyme
First res is 900ppm but 500ppm of this is PBP grow, everything else is soft, LK wont harm your plants and that cal-mag doesnt add much ppm anyways

once growth starts going faster i go by judgment, my plants speak to me so i add only 5ml/gal of PBP grow and if i see a little yellowing depending on plant size i may have to up the cal-mag to 10ML/gal, but after first res i dont use LK

Mid size Veg
these numbers are bare minimums, strain dependant may want more food

15ml/gal PBP grow
5ml cal-mag
5ml sweet
8ml hygrozyme
keep in mind sweet is $70 a gallon plus PBP has raw cane sugar in it, so i dont use much of it yet, i kick it up a notch during larger veg max out at 10ml/gal, and i only use hygrozyme on res changeouts, i dont top of with it or addback, when i need to addback i do so at 25% of my original mix only if ppms go down, if ppms rise i use plain water.
ppm still around 900 but its like 700ppm of PBP the rest is soft stuff

by the time flower starts i would like to be at 1200ppm, i also run PBP grow for the first 2 weeks of bloom, its no biggie you can go with the bloom nutes as the NPK numbers are very similar, at this point its still strain dependant and may need 10ml/gal if they are heavy feeds, this cal-mag will prevent early yellowing

so we are at late veg (i go 4 weeks)

to get our 1200ppm we need

20ml PBP grow
atleast 5ml cal-mag
and 5 sweet

this is all interchangable, during flower you can go 25ml bloom and 10 callmag or 30bloom 5 cal-mag..regardless for the whole bloom cycle i like to run atleast 10ml of sweet, sweet has magnesium in it is will help you lay off the cal-mag if you like, my whole point is you can run your mixes in 5ml increments of each of the 3 different bottles and not harm your plants
****please note : calcium is an immoble element, this means it takes a while for it to travel through the plant, so if you are running R/O water or tap water less than 100ppm add atleast 5ml/gal of cal-mag, its easier to add it than to correct the calcium deficiency you cheap bastard! calcium starts at the edges of the serrated tips of the leaf looking like small rust spots, then works its way between the viens of the leaf towards the center vien, leaves will not recover. from my own exp. i know magnesium is an easier fix and leaves may or may not recover.
i did not include any bloom boosters because i dont think you need it, i always used cha ching at the6th week till 8th week with 9th week being flush week, i just recently incorperated beastie bloomz into the mix but i havent noticed any difference, to me cha ching seriously increases resin production, like NOTICABLY . botanicare is making a heavy push with Hydroplex, this is a 0-10-6 late flower bloom booster with gaurenteed analysis of micro nutrients at around $70/gal, i prefer the FF powders cus at 1/4 tsp they are much more economical and jesus! did i tell you how much resin cha chings adds? game changer!
 
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boxing119

Active Member
thank you for all your help i disconnected my out take ducting so the freezing air is going through the cool tubes than out into the tent making it have a much lower temp and i can finally zip it up. i dont have to much more GH products so thats why im so interested in making the switch i dont really like how the plants are growing with the nutes
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
wait what did you do with your duct? let me see if i understand....cold air from window ----->fan----->cooltube--->into tent?

thats not what i first meant for you to try.

disconnected duct hangin/cold air supply ---->fan blows into cooltube---->from cooltube ducted out tent. that fan being strong and the size of your tent should almost make your ear drums pop, this pressure will suck fresh air from any hole, pin sized or that duct that you disconnected, the cold outside air will flow in from the duct, whirl around your tent and gets sucked into the fan, from the fan blows into the cooltube that is directly connected to a duct that goes straight outside. you originally started out with a "closed loop" system to cool the lights right>?
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
the whole reason why i wanted you to suck the air out of the room is for humidty control aswell, if you have a carbon filter for smells all you need to do is hook it up to the fan that blows into the tube
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
off topic, since theres many people old members and new ones who are literally coming from all angles with this system, who thinks this thread should be made a sticky? im sure many of us found this thread by accident and theres nothing else on RIU for CAP/multi-flow users
 

justsmoking

Active Member
Yes what I did was ran the system for a couple days then while it's flooding I dug out the hydroton till I saw water just over the clay then I placed the rockwool just on top of that then poured the rest hydroton around the top. I flood two times a day and it almost looks like the rockwool is too dry? But as soon as it floods again it soaks up and it's wet !! I'm seeing growth and there on day 8. So far it looks good . I did add some hygrozyme to the resivor . Will see what happns at next flood!!!
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
off topic, since theres many people old members and new ones who are literally coming from all angles with this system, who thinks this thread should be made a sticky? im sure many of us found this thread by accident and theres nothing else on RIU for CAP/multi-flow users
The thread is perfectly named.

Unfortunately, the thread starter seems to have abandoned interest. I just added some tags, you should do the same.

I found this thread by searching for it.:hump:

So let's make it more searchable.

Reading back, there IS really great information in here from lots of posters.
 

boxing119

Active Member
so i have tried these two ways... i had it set so it went from the window with the frezzing air through the fan than both cool tubes than in to the tent, so basiclly i just disconnected the exhaust from it so the cool air would stay in my tent, this worked very well i could close the doors on the tent and it would stay around 78.... than i tried disconnecting the intake so it went fan cool tubes than exuasted the hot air into my house, but still that is too hold it went up to like 83 degrees with the doors closed and was gonna keep going up. im not sure if i did it right but it worked best when i was bringin cold air into the tent
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
You're sucking air from the window, warming it up by putting it through the hoods, then blowing that hot air into your house? Is that right? Where is your carbon filter?

I will assume that you have a carbon filter inside the top of the tent sucking out hot air? Put your hood in between the carbon filter and the exhaust fan. Then blow that air outside. Your intake fan doesn't need to be that big, but you can put a speed controller on it to adjust the amount of cold air your blowing into your house. Inside your tent should be about 5 degrees warmer than outside the tent if you set it up like that.

Here is a VERY good guide of various configurations that will work. Some good illustrations too. http://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/exhaust-fan-setup.html
I will say it again for you. "Put your hood in between the carbon filter and the exhaust fan. Then blow that air outside."
 

boxing119

Active Member
i dont have a carbon filter yet, and i have two hoods. so now in my tent the top goes inline fan through one cool tube than the other the pushing the hot air out of my grow room? is that what you mean smoking ruber? i think its how your saying just with out the carbon filter
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
Suck the hot air out of the hoods and blow it outside. It will fuggn stink pretty bad, pretty soon. If smell is going to be an issue, get a good carbon filter and duct it to the other end of the hoods.

You have an oversized fan already, so get one of these. I saw one for $109 on ebay. http://www.grozonecontrol.com/TV2_en.html That will speed up the fan when it gets too hot, automatically cooling your tent.

I use one for my 2000w tent.
 

boxing119

Active Member
by sucking all the air out it still would not keep my tent cool enough, my tent looked completley sunk in... but in a good way but i still couldnt get the temp below 82
 

boxing119

Active Member
Smoking rubber, was it hard to install your water filter? im till running tap water but wanting to switch to RO just not sure what ill need and how hard it is?
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
The RO was pretty easy to install. At least it looked easy when my friend the plumber did it ;) I didn't need a plumber, but when your friend IS one ... well he would have been offended if I hadnt asked.

Your are exhausting to OUTSIDE the house, right? That's crucial.
 

smokingrubber

Well-Known Member
i could... does it just hook up to a normal garden hose? and how long does it take to fill the rez?
Yes, mine came with an attachment to hook up to the garden hose. Mine takes approx 5 hours to fill 40 gallons. I wait till after the last feeding of the night, disconnect everything and clean it out back in the dark. Then I hook it all back up, turn the water on and go to bed. The float valve shuts the water off, and the barrel is ready for nutes when I wake up.
 

xceptional

Active Member
Nice video xceptional, +rep.

Couple questions:
1. How long did you veg? Seed or Clone?
2. Nute system?
3. Strain?
4. Supercrop? FEM? Top? They look pretty natural.

That looks like a great height for this system. Thanks for the lighter tip.

1. from clone, veg to 22-24"
2. i followed GreenThumbSuckers nutes he used in his journal here so Lucas with Flora and H202 along with some Magical that came with the system
3. NL#5
4. all natural plants.
 
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