TheWiseInfidel
Active Member
I am planning on starting my first grow hopefully next month and have a SHITLOAD of questions. I've done about a month of research but theres ALOT of information pertaining to the particular stages and techniques, equipment that I really can't find the answer to. With this post I will make as detailed an outline as I can of what I plan on doing and how I will go about doing it and asking questions along the way where I feel is necessary.As I progress through the outline I will put a # and three *** next to it to signify the question so whoever has an answer to that particular question can just type the number then their answer for reference. I hope that the veterans will see my process and be able to correct my mistakes as well as give me advice on how to go about making my grow op. more efficient. anyways on to the outline
I PLAN ON DOING THIS ON A $300 BUDGET MAX! TRYING TO MAKE IT $250 HOWEVER!
For starters I am planning to do a THREE PLANT indoor pure organic closet grow(36inX7ft). the closet space is very thin but long in width. 1***Will having such a thin width stunt the growth of the plant as the leaves probably won't have a terrible amount of space to spread?***
The lights I plan on using are t5 fluorescents on a sunblaze reflector set up @ 6500k throughout the entire process. i will more than likely have two or three fixtures to give the plants enough lightsource throughout. However, I want to get the maximum yield for my plants(5-8 oskies) and have considered investing in getting a 4 bulb hood or a 200-300w HPS or MH setup though I think its a bit exxagerated for two or 3 lolely plants. 2*** What is the most cost-effective option but also the best option for the my desired yield and would it be necessary to have different lighting setups for different stages(vegetative, flowering) or can I do as planned and use the single setup throught the entire process? Will the t5 sunblaze option give me a decent 4-5 oskie yield if i go that route?***
At about a week and a half/2 weeks into the seedling stage i will transfer it to its final pot which will more than likely be a 2-3 gallon container. I will more than likely use a nitrogen-rich topsoil from miracle grow from the beginning and throughout feeding it strictly water until the mid vegetative state(depending on my ppm reading for nitrogen of course). I will start at 200ppm then work up to aboutt 700-800ppm until the end of the vegetative state. I am aware that nitrogen is needed throughout the seedling and vegetative states but for the flowering stage one should change to a phosphorous/potassium-rich fertilizer that also includes magnesium and some sulfer. ***2 assuming that i need to fertilize with nitrogen before reaching the flowering stage as the plant will be using up alot of the nitrogen early would i use a 20-20-20 or should i up the nitrogen to 30-10-10?. do i completely stop feeding nitrogen to the now flowering plant or do i i use a low nitrogen high phospherous diet such as a 10-30-10 mix. would i need to add more potassium on top of the 10-30-10 fertilizer during this time if i go that route. What is the suggested ppm to keep the runoff water at once the plant reaches flowering stage? and do ppm meters measure multiple nutrients, or just nitrogen? do you suggest I make my own potting mix as many guides advise? i.e using topsoil, moss, vermiculite, worm castings etc. or would it be a little out of my league as a first time grower? would that make a significant difference than just going with the nitrogen-rich soil for the seedling stage?***
as for watering my plant i am well aware that this is a very delicate process, however there is a lot of perspective involved as to how to water your plants. i have some equipment questions as well. ***3 would i water the plant till the top of the soil becomes saturated or until i can see runoff water coming from the bottom of the pot? what is the recommended ppm level once my plant reaches the flowering stage? would a Co2 tank aid in growth significantly or would talking to my plants for an hour or so have the same effect? does Co2 simulation create a SIGNIFICANTLY higher yield?***
for harvesting my plant i will probably do so 8-9 weeks after flowering has started feeding it only water at about 7 1/2 weeks for at least a week to "flush" the nutrients. apparently the harvesting process is as follows. trim the leaves and excess leaves from the buds and stem leaving only the buds then cut them at the roots and hang them upside down on a hangar<<<<<<wtf u serious? it says to leave them in a well ventillated dry area for about 1-2 weeks then to cure them inside mason jars for another two weeks making sure to check for mold, over humidity etc. for another 2 weeks. ***4 would i be able to hang them inside the closet with the doors halfway opened and the fan blowing medium strength facing the walls?***
I might be leaving out major details that i've overlooked since i've spent an hour making this little mini outline. i know i tackled the major questions, however, and hopefully i can get some informative answers and corrections to my outline as to not make mistakes when i actually put my grow in operation. i'm dreaming big but i want my first grow to be as good as a professional grow. any and all input is appreciated.
I PLAN ON DOING THIS ON A $300 BUDGET MAX! TRYING TO MAKE IT $250 HOWEVER!
For starters I am planning to do a THREE PLANT indoor pure organic closet grow(36inX7ft). the closet space is very thin but long in width. 1***Will having such a thin width stunt the growth of the plant as the leaves probably won't have a terrible amount of space to spread?***
The lights I plan on using are t5 fluorescents on a sunblaze reflector set up @ 6500k throughout the entire process. i will more than likely have two or three fixtures to give the plants enough lightsource throughout. However, I want to get the maximum yield for my plants(5-8 oskies) and have considered investing in getting a 4 bulb hood or a 200-300w HPS or MH setup though I think its a bit exxagerated for two or 3 lolely plants. 2*** What is the most cost-effective option but also the best option for the my desired yield and would it be necessary to have different lighting setups for different stages(vegetative, flowering) or can I do as planned and use the single setup throught the entire process? Will the t5 sunblaze option give me a decent 4-5 oskie yield if i go that route?***
At about a week and a half/2 weeks into the seedling stage i will transfer it to its final pot which will more than likely be a 2-3 gallon container. I will more than likely use a nitrogen-rich topsoil from miracle grow from the beginning and throughout feeding it strictly water until the mid vegetative state(depending on my ppm reading for nitrogen of course). I will start at 200ppm then work up to aboutt 700-800ppm until the end of the vegetative state. I am aware that nitrogen is needed throughout the seedling and vegetative states but for the flowering stage one should change to a phosphorous/potassium-rich fertilizer that also includes magnesium and some sulfer. ***2 assuming that i need to fertilize with nitrogen before reaching the flowering stage as the plant will be using up alot of the nitrogen early would i use a 20-20-20 or should i up the nitrogen to 30-10-10?. do i completely stop feeding nitrogen to the now flowering plant or do i i use a low nitrogen high phospherous diet such as a 10-30-10 mix. would i need to add more potassium on top of the 10-30-10 fertilizer during this time if i go that route. What is the suggested ppm to keep the runoff water at once the plant reaches flowering stage? and do ppm meters measure multiple nutrients, or just nitrogen? do you suggest I make my own potting mix as many guides advise? i.e using topsoil, moss, vermiculite, worm castings etc. or would it be a little out of my league as a first time grower? would that make a significant difference than just going with the nitrogen-rich soil for the seedling stage?***
as for watering my plant i am well aware that this is a very delicate process, however there is a lot of perspective involved as to how to water your plants. i have some equipment questions as well. ***3 would i water the plant till the top of the soil becomes saturated or until i can see runoff water coming from the bottom of the pot? what is the recommended ppm level once my plant reaches the flowering stage? would a Co2 tank aid in growth significantly or would talking to my plants for an hour or so have the same effect? does Co2 simulation create a SIGNIFICANTLY higher yield?***
for harvesting my plant i will probably do so 8-9 weeks after flowering has started feeding it only water at about 7 1/2 weeks for at least a week to "flush" the nutrients. apparently the harvesting process is as follows. trim the leaves and excess leaves from the buds and stem leaving only the buds then cut them at the roots and hang them upside down on a hangar<<<<<<wtf u serious? it says to leave them in a well ventillated dry area for about 1-2 weeks then to cure them inside mason jars for another two weeks making sure to check for mold, over humidity etc. for another 2 weeks. ***4 would i be able to hang them inside the closet with the doors halfway opened and the fan blowing medium strength facing the walls?***
I might be leaving out major details that i've overlooked since i've spent an hour making this little mini outline. i know i tackled the major questions, however, and hopefully i can get some informative answers and corrections to my outline as to not make mistakes when i actually put my grow in operation. i'm dreaming big but i want my first grow to be as good as a professional grow. any and all input is appreciated.
