I'll have to try that out next time.... are the benefits of this way better and how? I'm quite interested lol
Do have a day to read?
In short
Ideally it is nice to have 15-20% of blue in flower. The 2700k warm whites do have small peak in blue, but maybe only 5-10%.
A good tradeoff recently has been using 3500k and 3000k ww spectrums which have anywhere from 15-25% blue wavelengths usually in the 430-470nm range. 6500k and 5000k cfls both use these as dominant wavelengths.
Usually people in the LED world add 450nm deep blues and 630,660 and 670nm's to the white spectrums to achieve a sort of "full spectrum", we are tricking the plant after all, not trying to replicate the sun.
Why do we even care about specific wavelengths. i.e. nanometers [nm]?
well because we are trying to mimic photosynthesis and enhance chlorophyll production throughout the grow cycle. Notice where the area of both sides of the peaks for Chloro A and B are, one side is between 430-470nm and the other is between 630-700nm.
This is also the chart for PAR, photosynthetically active radiation.
This has caused a shit storm of cheap LEd lights however, because people are focusing only on red and blue and typically forget the rest inbetween. Enter white's, which typically have a fuller spectrum encompassing a larger portion of the PAR spectrum [which is also the diagram]...
Green is a bastard child and white cfl's and led's, both have moderate amounts. Green will penetrate up to 50% of the amount of light under heavy light concentrations [think large bottom buds], and is not generally adsorbed by the very top structures of the plant.
So....adding a touch of a bluer white cfl [15% of overall wattage for shit n' giggle] added to your ww cfl's should really help increase plant growth and at least health.
Told yah...its a bit much