East Coast Gen simple, cheap, No-Till Theory

Day 21 & end of week 3. The only update is, I stripped the fan leaves and gave them the last tea.
Cal-Mag (Emerald Harvest)
Liquid Fish Hydrolysate (Kelp 4 Less) 2-3-0
Amino Acid (Raw Nutrients) 7-0-0
Enzymes (Raw Nutrients)
Grow Stage Microbes (Raw Nutrients)
Bloom Stage Microbes (Raw Nutrients)
Kelp (Raw Nutrients) 0-0-1
Cane Molasses (Raw Nutrients) 0-0-1
Humic Acid (Raw Nutrients) 0-0-4
Certified Organic Fulvic Acid (Power Grown) .56-0-0
Potassium 0-0-50 (Raw Nutrients)* used at a very very light rate

(Tent #2)


(Tent #3)

I said i was going to do it and i did it lol, working in a kitchen really comes in handy. But, Avocado Tech...... kinda lol. The spin I'm putting on it is, im going to mash my food scraps with some worm chow,egg shells, and dry organic amendments. To be honest, for the way i understand it and plan to use it. Its just a worm breeding kinda thing. Yeah you get the benefits of the vermicompost but for me its about drawing the worms together for breeding.
I started with 250 red wiggles divided between 3 tents. So i need to get them to really really multiply so i can start to compost in the beds like i want!

Avocado shag pad works a treat lol

Wk 3 Day 24 of flower. Nothing has really happened. The girls look great, showing no signs of stress. I have one more top dressing to do next week and its just plain water from here on out. The cover crop is filling back in strongly. Its not my first time with trellis netting, it just my first time using it to train plant and boy do i like what I'm seeing.

(Tent #2)


(Tent #3)

The new mom has been potted. My favorites are in the biggest pots and the others are in smaller ones.

Slurricane IX (@dan_kizzay cut) is my favorite in my little library. Purple, berry,gassy,kush profile. Its everything i love, in one!

Hazmat OG (A.T.G's cut) first time running it. But A.T.G has never steered me wrong with selections. He's been my go to for years with elite cuts, breeders cuts, and cuts he hunted. I potted it up big because the way she reeks in veg! She's the only reason i need a filter in the veg area.

Unsure about the others. I'll know if im keeping more after this run.
Grape Stomper OG
J.M.O (slowest to flower)
Sour D Wilson (fastest flowering)


Out of the many plants i tried to reveg, only one came through. Sundae Driver (blacksheepfarmerz cut), i finally have a really good run with her last round. I got to she her branching, flower profile, cure, and smoke. I was definitely impressed. I never liked the peppery terps but after cure it wasn't as strong but blended in nicely when smoked that i didn't even notice it. So I'm glad she decided to stick around with me.

(I started a new job monday so the updates might only happen once a week)

So here we are already at day 34 of flower.
All tents were given just straight tap water. I been trying to push the QB96 Elites V2's harder than i did with the last round. And i found the limits lol. Slurricane IX definitely prefers less light intensity. Other than the learning curve with the LEDs, everything is rocking solid. The leaf stripping at day 21 did help. I finally achieved getting the canopy structure like i wanted. I wanted a sea of all colas.
(Tent #2- All Slurricane IX)


(Tent#3 mixed strains)
Only Slurricane the few Slurricane IX in this bed is doing the same thing. Plus im starting to see the same signs on Hazmat OG. So im going to back off the intensity slightly and monitor. Might need to do another round of light leaf stripping.

Looking good man how did the avocado tec go ?

Tent #1 looks like a hot ass mess! I mean its the first cycle through this bed but damn it looks pitiful compared to my first cycle in tent #2 & #3. The cover crop definitely caught up to the runt clones in the bed. So i guess a quick smash of the cover crop is in order but I'm just gonna toss a net in and send it. I'll train the bigger plants to allow the runts to catch up but what ever happens happens but i need to kinda stay on schedule. Im also getting consistent signs in all my tents that i need to back off the light intensity.

Leeski said:

Looking good man how did the avocado tec go ?

Click to expand...

I didn't even check them since i put them in there last week. Give me a few minutes and I'll post pictures of it.

Leeski said:

Looking good man how did the avocado tec go ?

Click to expand...

So im guessing it went well lol the shell that i could find in arms reach was empty and abandoned lol. So i didn't get to see any worm action but everything inside the shell is gone. The microbes and mycelium are also going to town on the shell too!

(This is the shell and mycelium is building across the surface)



This is what's left of the inside of the shell. Its nothing lol it doesn't even hold its structure anymore.


Plus two more things. Between the shade leaves and the last smash down of the cover crop i did. It Usinformed a nice little layer of mulch under my cover crop. I personally just hate to see straw used as a mulch layer. Its just a pet peeve that i have with the no till world. I understand for initially using it as a barrier when you get started and sowing cover for the first time, after that i just dont get it. (Sorry for the quick rant). Secondly, mycelium is already working on composting the leaves and cover that died. This is the focus for people who follow the (ex. Gro-Kashi) or Probiotic type of way.

They have soon got through that I don’t know what it is about avocado that gets them so hungry and horny but there great for checking worm population - I have even seen night crawlers come up to get a piece of the action when I use halfs of avocado I move them round on a daily basis which in my mind must help with Soil structure I guess
Not a huge fan of straw mulch either tbf only time I have ever had issues with gnats is when I have mulched with straw
Hope your new jobs going well have a great Christmas

Check this out. Hypothetically speaking. If i keep working and recording the progression of my beds, using my twist on a No-Till. I could in all honesty claim my method as a
-Probiotic (using mycelium to compost and also feed the plants)
-vermicomposting (using red red wigglers for composting certain food scraps and they eat the dead cover crop)

NO-TILL BABY!!!

Once i start adding the minerals and next round of worms man.....

So the loading up the soil with minerals right now would add another little dog tag to list being fancy lol. So, this understanding of it is based of Doc Bud's Hi-Brix grow he documented and eventually took his method and recipe to the market.
But he noted that in trying to achieve a higher brix reading, he saw better results with higher minerals and lower amounts of fertilizers and organic material in the soil.
That translated to me that the perfect time to add the mineral going to be between the second and third run. Since I'm always going to keep changing cover crops, my organic matter is only going to increase and i planned to scale back on inputs each round. So, I'm kinda following Doc Bud's method but he didn't do No-Till!

-High Brix (its just another way of measuring plant health through the sugar content in the sap. In food, it would mean that it would be real nutritious and flavorful. For any grower, after a certain level pest wont attack your plants. When pest attack plants they suck the water. When your plant has high sugar content it forms a sticky sap that bugs dont care for. If you focus on this type of style, usually you do soil samples regularly and make adjustments based off lab results. Regularly you would need to do leaf samples and test the resuluts on a refactor meter.)

So to some it up, this could potentially be considered (pending multiple rounds of results) a
High Brix, Probiotic, Vermicomposting, No-Till style. Right? But say that 3 times fast! It still all my theories organized into a no-till bed. Truth be told..... i did plan this to be like this but you have to read my past post!

Leeski said:

They have soon got through that I don’t know what it is about avocado that gets them so hungry and horny but there great for checking worm population - I have even seen night crawlers come up to get a piece of the action when I use halfs of avocado I move them round on a daily basis which in my mind must help with Soil structure I guess
Not a huge fan of straw mulch either tbf only time I have ever had issues with gnats is when I have mulched with straw
Hope your new jobs going well have a great Christmas

Click to expand...

Thank you, its going well so far. Merry Christmas brother.

I’m not familiar with Doc Bud's methods but will defo do some research I have only just scratched the surface in my journey down the organic rabbit hole I’m kinda mixing/free styling a combination of shit at the min with long term goal being water only
Look forward to your next update

Day 2 of flower for Tent #1. After almost a week after i turned down the lights, there finally growing again. These QB96 Elite v2 's aren't a joke! I have them on a HLG-240H-54A and i have never been able to get above a 60-70'ish percentage range before i have problems with too much light.
But anyways, i dropped the netting in and flipped her for Christmas lol. I probably will mix up a batch of my tea today or tomorrow for them like i did for Tent 2 & 3. I'll do it once a week until week 3, just like the others. I also did a leaf stripping the day before i flipped and started tucking any tops that above the canopy. I will keep doing it until the stretch is over between week 3 and 4.
Tent #1 Strains:
(1) MS-13 [Mac Stomper #13 @dan_kizzay cut]
(2) J.M.O [A.T.G cut]
(1) Hazmat OG [A.T.G cut]
(6) Sour Diesel Wilson [A.T.G cut]
( GSOG#2 [Grape Stomper OG @dan_kizzay cut]

(Tent #1)


Im in day 40 of flowering for Tents #2&3. In tent #2, the outer perimeter of the beds were effected by the intensity of the LEDs. Since backing off the light, i haven't had anymore scorched leaves and there back to the program. So for Christmas, i did some leaf stripping. It was quite a few tops the were being shaded. But most of all i was impressed with the canopy. Stick on sticks of colas forming. The frost and berry terp is starting to develop.
(Tent #2)



Tent #3 wasn't affected by the light intensity to much. The most i had, was some edges were turning up and becoming discolored but i didn't have scorched leaves like tent #2 did. So they got the same treatment for Christmas..... leaf stripping. Between tent 2 & 3. Tent 3 needed leaf stripping the worse. Mainly dude to Hazmat! But after the leaf stripping, i was amazed again at the structure of the canopy. Colas on cola are in my future. Add a easy harvest to the list too!
(Tent #3)

Just a little bit of nug porn for the record.

Slurricane IX in tent #2

(TENT #3)
Hazmat OG


Sour Diesel Wilson


J.M.O


Slurricane IX in tent #3

@EastCoastGenetix said:

I personally just hate to see straw used as a mulch layer. Its just a pet peeve that i have with the no till world.

Click to expand...

Why do you hate straw (or hay?). Mostly I use timothy grass hay, just because it's got a little bit more N than straw. But basically I think either is a great source of carbon that doesn't contribute many nutrients that could otherwise cause things to accumulate or go off-balance in future grow cycles. Plus the fact that you can throw cover crop seeds over a mulch of straw/hay, and because it's mostly stems the cover grows up right through it. When the cover crop dies from shading (I don't defoliate as much as you do), the dying green cover adds a shot of N and keeps the straw/hay moist underneath it, and the fungi go nuts, then the bacteria move in to finish it off - then it's gone.

Northwood said:

Why do you hate straw (or hay?). Mostly I use timothy grass hay, just because it's got a little bit more N than straw. But basically I think either is a great source of carbon that doesn't contribute many nutrients that could otherwise cause things to accumulate or go off-balance in future grow cycles. Plus the fact that you can throw cover crop seeds over a mulch of straw/hay, and because it's mostly stems the cover grows up right through it. When the cover crop dies from shading (I don't defoliate as much as you do), the dying green cover adds a shot of N and keeps the straw/hay moist underneath it, and the fungi go nuts, then the bacteria move in to finish it off - then it's gone.

Click to expand...

Using it to start a bed is cool. After that its just a waste. Im going to post pictures of my cover crop. But basically everytime you smash the cover crop you form a layer of mulch. New growth shoots up too, after a couple of rounds of smashing the cover loses its vigor and that when im going sow some cover seeds and just smash a layer of it and water it. It only takes me a week to get nice carpet of cover from the day i sowed the seeds. Plus its just a cautionary approach, no unwanted freeloaders!

@EastCoastGenetix said:

Using it to start a bed is cool. After that its just a waste. Im going to post pictures of my cover crop. But basically everytime you smash the cover crop you form a layer of mulch. New growth shoots up too, after a couple of rounds of smashing the cover loses its vigor and that when im going sow some cover seeds and just smash a layer of it and water it. It only takes me a week to get nice carpet of cover from the day i sowed the seeds. Plus its just a cautionary approach, no unwanted freeloaders!

Click to expand...

The issue is that a cover crop of clover is going to supply a lot of nitrogen, but not an incredibly amount of carbon. The C:N ratio definitely is towards the N with fresh green clover cover. That's not a bad thing lol, but to ensure that the N that's produced doesn't escape out your tent exhaust fan means having a proper balance of C.

From my understanding organic matter can consist of plant and or animal waste at various stages of decomposition, cells and tissues of soil microbes, and substances that soil microbes synthesize with. So when i smash the cover crop, some dies off and creates a brown mulch. I know my microbes are active and is balancing my beds. Mycelium is adding in composting brown matter and the red wiggers has been munching on the fresh greens.