Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)

BudHound said:

Sup Homebrewer,

Major thanks on recommending Dyna Nuts, I don't plan to switch over to anything else endless I am doing organic outdoor. Major success using Dyna in ebb and flo. My concern is do you need to PH in flushing using ro water? (I currently do ph it in flushing, I only ad hygrozyme and H2O2 to get the resvoir and equip cleaned or try to!) I'm sure answer is here somewhere, but I have read you thread twice and wrote down many notes, spent last hour trying to look for answer. Anyhow, If you can provide to some valuable info as to why or why not.. Thanks in advance.

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I don't flush. Instead, I just lower the amount of food to what the plant is taking in during the last week or two.

Hey Homebrewer, great little experiment and thanks for doing it. I am sold on Dyna-Gro for sure. Did you end up using the floralicious plus in conjunction? And did you use Pro-tekt too? Sorry, my reading of this thread from last night is a bit hazy!

Also, i'd like to get your feedback on this regimen:

Dyna-Gro grow and bloom
Floralicious Plus
Botanicare Silica Blast (or would Pro-tekt be a better option?)
Dutch Masters Gold Zone
FloraNectar

YouLookAdopted said:

Hey Homebrewer, great little experiment and thanks for doing it. I am sold on Dyna-Gro for sure. Did you end up using the floralicious plus in conjunction? And did you use Pro-tekt too? Sorry, my reading of this thread from last night is a bit hazy!

Also, i'd like to get your feedback on this regimen:

Dyna-Gro grow and bloom
Floralicious Plus
Botanicare Silica Blast (or would Pro-tekt be a better option?)
Dutch Masters Gold Zone
FloraNectar

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Grow and bloom are great in hydro, I also like floralicious plus. Protekt is a better value than silica blast as it has 4 times the amount of silica for the same price. DM zone and floranectar are not needed.

homebrewer said:

Grow and bloom are great in hydro, I also like floralicious plus. Protekt is a better value than silica blast as it has 4 times the amount of silica for the same price. DM zone and floranectar are not needed.

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You can make tea for quite a bit cheaper. It seems to work a long time too... I just put some hummus, fungus, fish emulsion, kelp, and thats it in there. I do it once every water change (2 weeks). It seems to keep the roots white, and not stinky. Keeps bugs away etc. I also use some mosquito dunks, but they are just crumbs. I put it in the bottom of the pot before i transplant. to hydro.

Hey HB thank you! Off to read testing beneficials its quite amazing 2-3ml of gro in veg is enough and how powerful these nutes are. Im in coco and have recently lowered my ec from 1.0 in veg down to .7 and in flower from 1.4-1.6 down to 1.1 1.2 and everybody is much happier now.


peace
BG

i have a question if using RO or a mix of RO and bubbled tap bringing the ec down to .01.
Should Magpro be used regularly @ .5 or 1ml per gal in veg and bloom or as a booster only during certain weeks in bloom because of the boost in P? Thanks

blazedgeek said:

i have a question if using RO or a mix of RO and bubbled tap bringing the ec down to .01.
Should Magpro be used regularly @ .5 or 1ml per gal in veg and bloom or as a booster only during certain weeks in bloom because of the boost in P? Thanks

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I don't use magpro in the 'dirt' and I can't imagine you'd need it in coco.

That probually explains the tip burns, i dropped calmag+ and went mag pro @.5ml per gal. Using ro water im going to drop it
thanks for the quick response and help HB!

take it easy
BG

Off topic, but look into Primordial Solutions. I currently use all Dyna nuts in ebb and flow and add Liquid Karma along with Primordial. Stuff gets my res tanks all foamy using airstones, active life at work in the water! I get good results using sythetic dyna and Primordial/LK for any life activity. Stuff helps for transplanting and shock! Gluck and Jah bless

hey hb, I've used dynagro/bloom off and on for years. Never used protekt or magpro before. My local store doesn't carry em. I'm experimenting w/ionic series now but not really happy w/it so far. It is a little less concentrated than dyna so much more needs to be used.

I run a 50/50 mix of RO and straight well water. This gets my ppm to around 200. How much protekt would you recomend per gallon if running dynabloom/gro? It also seems like I could never get a full two weeks on a waterchange while running dyna. 10-12 days seemed best. This sound bout right to you? I always felt like the bloom alone was a little short on potassium. It seems like it needs a little phosphorus late in flower too. The protekt should help this some tho right?

Do you think I would benefit from running mag pro or eliminating the ro altogether? It seems when I run straight well water I get an excessive amount of calcium deposits. My well water runs around 300-400 at a ph of 7.2. Lots of Iron and calcium. Even after running it through several prefilters.

I've got bout a months worth of the ionic series left so I have time to decide. I did order some magpro, and protekt already as I'm probably going back to dyna anyways.

.. Edit. I run sog and ebb and grow to flower my mums.
I'm interested to hear any opinions or advice you have on this. You are one of the few ppl. who really likes the dyna series. I always was happy with it overall, just a few things I didn't like.

thanks..

joe macclennan said:

I run a 50/50 mix of RO and straight well water. This gets my ppm to around 200. How much protekt would you recomend per gallon if running dynabloom/gro? It also seems like I could never get a full two weeks on a waterchange while running dyna. 10-12 days seemed best. This sound bout right to you? I always felt like the bloom alone was a little short on potassium. It seems like it needs a little phosphorus late in flower too. The protekt should help this some tho right?

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Protekt; I use 1/2-1 tsp/gal. I change my res each week no matter what food I'm using. Bloom has plenty of potassium and probably too much phosphorus relative to nitrogen. I'm actually experimenting right now with using no bloom during flower.

Do you think I would benefit from running mag pro or eliminating the ro altogether? It seems when I run straight well water I get an excessive amount of calcium deposits. My well water runs around 300-400 at a ph of 7.2. Lots of Iron and calcium. Even after running it through several prefilters.

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If anything, you should use more RO. But if you're getting good results with your 50/50 split then stick with that. After I finish my 'no bloom tests', I'll be playing with magpro. I remember finding that with RO magpro is beneficial but I want to revisit that. Magpro is just a supplement, you shouldn't be using a lot of it anyways.

homebrewer said:

If anything, you should use more RO. But if you're getting good results with your 50/50 split then stick with that. After I finish my 'no bloom tests', I'll be playing with magpro. I remember finding that with RO magpro is beneficial but I want to revisit that. Magpro is just a supplement, you shouldn't be using a lot of it anyways.

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Why do you say I should use more ro? I was using a 60 RO/40 WW ratio. I recently went to 50/50. I also was adding 4oz of botanicare calmag per 50 gallons. I am interested to see how this magpro does.

joe macclennan said:

Why do you say I should use more ro? I was using a 60 RO/40 WW ratio. I recently went to 50/50. I also was adding 4oz of botanicare calmag per 50 gallons. I am interested to see how this magpro does.

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I said 'if anything, you should use more Ro' as opposed to using more well water. RO is a clean slate and well water is crap shoot. Like I said though, if 50/50 is working, stick with it.

I cant thank you enough for the knowledge you have given me and everyone else for that matter. I have studied all your grows so far and I'm taking the plunge into hydro. I live in the U.S. and I am trying to use tap water. Just bought the bluelab ph and ppm pen. If I may ask you opinion. My Tap water on the 500 scale is 240ppm on the 700 scale its 340 and the ec is .5 would it be okay to use this water in a nft set up? Also you mentioned if I remember correctly something about a 440 scale? My freakin brain is hurting. Please help. I was tought at a very young age to copy to the tee a successful person and in return I would become a successful. Now homebrewer I know you hate to spoon feed people but could you PLEASE get out the spoon for me? What scale should I be using?

necbyter said:

I cant thank you enough for the knowledge you have given me and everyone else for that matter. I have studied all your grows so far and I'm taking the plunge into hydro. I live in the U.S. and I am trying to use tap water. Just bought the bluelab ph and ppm pen. If I may ask you opinion. My Tap water on the 500 scale is 240ppm on the 700 scale its 340 and the ec is .5 would it be okay to use this water in a nft set up? Also you mentioned if I remember correctly something about a 440 scale? My freakin brain is hurting. Please help. I was tought at a very young age to copy to the tee a successful person and in return I would become a successful. Now homebrewer I know you hate to spoon feed people but could you PLEASE get out the spoon for me? What scale should I be using?

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When talking about feeding levels or nutrient concentrations on forums, it's helpful to use EC, but if you use ppm and say '.7 scale' or '.5 scale', halfway educated growers will know what you mean. All that's important is that you can work between the different ppm scales and know what EC equals what ppm as it pertains to you. Like when you said, 'My Tap water on the 500 scale is 240ppm...', I knew exactly what you meant and so would anyone else. That's some hard water you've got there and I'd recommend an RO filter. You don't have to use 100% RO but something in the ballpark of 75% RO / 25% tap will make your future in hydro a lot easier.

Thank you kind Sir. RO it is. So from what I gather ec is the same all over the world its not on any particular scale like ppm is.

necbyter said:

Thank you kind Sir. RO it is. So from what I gather ec is the same all over the world its not on any particular scale like ppm is.

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Exactly. PPM is based off of EC and EC is universal.

Is there any benefit to adding a bloom booster prior to or recently after begining to flower? In my mind it seems reasonable that it the additional P-K could help produce more bud sites and give the bud growth a healthy start. After the initial addition of a bloom booster such as Beastie Bloomz to the feeding, continue feeding with booster as directed.

Thoughts from anyone more experienced than I? Maybe someone has tried this?

NietzscheKeen said:

Is there any benefit to adding a bloom booster prior to or recently after begining to flower? In my mind it seems reasonable that it the additional P-K could help produce more bud sites and give the bud growth a healthy start. After the initial addition of a bloom booster such as Beastie Bloomz to the feeding, continue feeding with booster as directed.

Thoughts from anyone more experienced than I? Maybe someone has tried this?

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I'm running a test right now where I'm not using any of DG's bloom, just Grow and a little magpro. I question how much P is actually needed.

homebrewer said:

I'm running a test right now where I'm not using any of DG's bloom, just Grow and a little magpro. I question how much P is actually needed.

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Just finished a grow using only jack's 20-20-20 and I'm kinda pissed at UB. I have so much bud to trim it's ridiculous. My plants where so happy all the way thru to the end and I got more than when I was using all the additives and bloom nutes. I am now freed from bloom nutes and additives.