DIY with Quantum Boards

daveybc said:
HLG 185H 54A or B is recommended. Yes you can do a 240H 54A but the lights may need a fan on the heatsink depending on wattage. Invertronics is another supplier of quality drivers but they will cost you as well. Others on this thread pulled up those same drivers and the consensus was "no". I don't have deep pockets but doing it the right way pays off in safety, failure etc. I was running 1 185h per qb96e but find now that 2 qb96e per 1 185h driver more than enough power w my footprint and light count.
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I can dig it. The reason I want to run them like that is because HLG is selling it in kit form to replace a 315 CMH. Using the QB96 and driving it at 224 watt. Flower coverage is 3'x3'. I have 8 3x3 tents, 3 2x2 (definitely would dim it down), and a 10x5.
 
@EastCoastGenetix said:
I can dig it. The reason I want to run them like that is because HLG is selling it in kit form to replace a 315 CMH. Using the QB96 and driving it at 224 watt. Flower coverage is 3'x3'. I have 8 3x3 tents, 3 2x2 (definitely would dim it down), and a 10x5.
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The HLG 225 uses a larger heatsink than what the typical QB96 kits come with (SSTX heatsink), which is not recommended to go above 200 watts..

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chinaCat86 said:
4. Bonus: could someone explain the difference between a and b models? I don’t plan to dim them more than once, so saving money on an additional remote dimmer would be ideal.
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The difference between A and B models is that the B models have leads to connect a dimmer. On the A model you have to pop out the rubber plug and use a screwdriver to dim it manually
 
chinaCat86 said:
could someone explain the difference between a and b models? I don’t plan to dim them more than once, so saving money on an additional remote dimmer would be ideal.
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SCJedi said:
The difference between A and B models is that the B models have leads to connect a dimmer. On the A model you have to pop out the rubber plug and use a screwdriver to dim it manually
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Having just priced the HLG240 myself (slightly different model but should be similar pricing), its actually not a savings to get the A. It was exactly $6 more than the B. I then got the dimmer that @SCJedi recommended a few posts ago at RapidLED for exactly $6. Since it comes with wires attached I am just gonna connect it using a wagos i already have, and now I can dim much easier and more precisely.
 
chinaCat86 said:
I am purchasing 4x Qb132 and have a question about the driver. The manufacturer along with most discussions are powering them with some variation of HLG-240H-36 or HLG-240H-C1400. But this would mean 60watt per board instead of 75w for which they are rated. Why?

Could I not purchase the HLG-320h-36 and a dim it down about 5-10%?

I ask because I am already under powering my 4x4 grow area. With only these 4 qb132s and one qb120 that I already have. I plan to add more in the future, but I like to make the most of what I’m purchasing.

Finally, I’m not seeing good options for these drivers on amazon. Is mouser a good alternative? It says products in stock so I can ignore the lead time?

Recap:
1. Why do most people seem to run these at 60w instead of 75?

2. Can I safely power 4 of these with a hlg-320h-36 and just dim it slightly?

3. Is mouser a reputable place? Does this community have a preferred driver vendor? (Time is of the essence, would like to switch to 12/12 ASAP)

4. Bonus: could someone explain the difference between a and b models? I don’t plan to dim them more than once, so saving money on an additional remote dimmer would be ideal.

5. Bonus: I grok the difference between series and parallel but what do most of you prefer. Series seems the safer option.
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1) 2)There's really not a perfect driver for four QB 132's wattage wise. If you power them at 60 watts per board, the efficiency and efficacy numbers will be slightly higher than if powered at 75 watts per board. You can power four QB 132's in parallel on an HLG-320H-36 and just dim it slightly. A Kill-a-watt meter will give you a volts, current and watts reading on the AC side. You can use an inline meter or a multimeter to figure it out from the DC side.

3. I have heard that Mouser is reputable. I've had good experience with TRC Electronics for drivers.

4. The A version constant current HLG drivers have internal current adjustment. The A version constant current, constant voltage (the HLG-320H-36 is a constant current, constant voltage driver) HLG drivers have internal current and voltage adjustment. They have an IP65 rating.
The B version HLG drivers have a closed case and an IP67 rating. They have dimmer leads to attach an external potentiometer.
 
chinaCat86 said:
I am purchasing 4x Qb132 and have a question about the driver. The manufacturer along with most discussions are powering them with some variation of HLG-240H-36 or HLG-240H-C1400. But this would mean 60watt per board instead of 75w for which they are rated. Why?

Could I not purchase the HLG-320h-36 and a dim it down about 5-10%?

I ask because I am already under powering my 4x4 grow area. With only these 4 qb132s and one qb120 that I already have. I plan to add more in the future, but I like to make the most of what I’m purchasing.

Finally, I’m not seeing good options for these drivers on amazon. Is mouser a good alternative? It says products in stock so I can ignore the lead time?

Recap:
1. Why do most people seem to run these at 60w instead of 75?

2. Can I safely power 4 of these with a hlg-320h-36 and just dim it slightly?

3. Is mouser a reputable place? Does this community have a preferred driver vendor? (Time is of the essence, would like to switch to 12/12 ASAP)

4. Bonus: could someone explain the difference between a and b models? I don’t plan to dim them more than once, so saving money on an additional remote dimmer would be ideal.

5. Bonus: I grok the difference between series and parallel but what do most of you prefer. Series seems the safer option.
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4. Bonus: If you can find an HLG-320H-36AB in stock somewhere, that will give you the ability to adjust current on the driver or connect an external current dimmer. That will give you more flexibility, although since a lead time may be involved, you may want to go with the A or B.
5. Bonus: I use an HLG-320H-C2100AB to power each group of four QB 132's in series. Either way you go, series or parallel, should work well. If you wire in parallel, I wouldn't worry about thermal runaway. Whichever way you go just try not to overdrive the boards.
 
@EastCoastGenetix said:
Just checked I did post the specs about the qb96 but you didnt realize I didnt know how to read the information and interpret it. That's different then like you said "IF" I would've read the information. I would've known. And just so you know,that driver is meanwell LRS series. Just because I'm trying to save a few dollars doesn't mean I won't keep a standard and go for cheap unbranded chinese stuff.
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I don't think the LRS power supplies are available over 48v. You could try looking at meanwells latest addition the xlg driver, which is cheaper than HLG drivers but will be more expensive than an LRS power supply.
Look for the data sheet for xlg-240.
 
@Barristan Whitebeard I am pretty sure "parallel wiring is more prone to thermal runaway. According to Stephen at HLG to prevent thermal runaway you use you "Voltage" V pot ( constant Voltage driver ) and turn it down a tad until you see the light begin to dim. Then you use the IO pot to further adjust. Both "constant voltage" or "constant current" has its advantages and disadvantages.

Check out the "Led Gardner" Vids on the HLG website. He explains drivers ( cv and cc ) and thermal runaway. This guy is on point with his explanation.
 
Re this whole driver discussion: A versions main advantage is voltage dimming. If you use this right you can set a current ceilling per board so that you dont burn your chips by overfeeding current to the rest of your parallel connected chips in case you had a failure.
With fair availability of AB drivers i dont know why anyone would pass on these for a few coins, best of both worlds, onboard current and voltage adjustment (for cv) and off board current adjustment with dimmer. Your psu will be with you for quite some time dont make unnecessary short cuts unless you reaaaaaaaaally have to.
 
Rocket Soul said:
Re this whole driver discussion: A versions main advantage is voltage dimming. If you use this right you can set a current ceilling per board so that you dont burn your chips by overfeeding current to the rest of your parallel connected chips in case you had a failure.
With fair availability of AB drivers i dont know why anyone would pass on these for a few coins, best of both worlds, onboard current and voltage adjustment (for cv) and off board current adjustment with dimmer. Your psu will be with you for quite some time dont make unnecessary short cuts unless you reaaaaaaaaally have to.
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The A version drivers also give a little more juice than the B models (though efficiency hounds probably don't care much about that). Is that also true for the ABs?
 
Im not sure. And i believe the b-driver can still reach the extra watts if you use something like 110 instead of 100 ohms (or is kilo-ohms, cant remember)

Not sure how this would work on ABs but going to meanwells report section of driver in question might give u an answer.
 
Beautiful growth and color on my budget qb132 build. No idea what im going to do with all this basil. Getting little warm in the tent at times, when its sealed and i have the heater on. I'm interested in seeing how well i can grow some winter crops with cool temperatures. I tried spinach before under a HPS and they came out so weird, like 1 set of leaves and went to seed. I chalked that up to IR and overall spectrum. Im starting a new "experiment" with purple "heirloom" plants. Ive got about 100 plants in 10 varieties. Im betting that the QB spectrum and low IR/Heat bring out purpling very well. Later on i will clone them and put some outside in the sun as a control.
 

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Jqwerty1 said:
Beautiful growth and color on my budget qb132 build. No idea what im going to do with all this basil. Getting little warm in the tent at times, when its sealed and i have the heater on. I'm interested in seeing how well i can grow some winter crops with cool temperatures. I tried spinach before under a HPS and they came out so weird, like 1 set of leaves and went to seed. I chalked that up to IR and overall spectrum. Im starting a new "experiment" with purple "heirloom" plants. Ive got about 100 plants in 10 varieties. Im betting that the QB spectrum and low IR/Heat bring out purpling very well. Later on i will clone them and put some outside in the sun as a control.
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my next project is to get a couple veggie tents setup to offset the grocery budget. has anyone done microgreens under QBs?
 
What’s going on everybody? Quick question should I go with 4 qb 132s on a HLG-240H-C1750 or 2 288 V1’s on a HLG-240H-C2100 in a 4x4 veg tent?
 
ilovereggae said:
my next project is to get a couple veggie tents setup to offset the grocery budget. has anyone done microgreens under QBs?
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probably some over kill. Lettuce likes about 300 ppfd. If your doing leafy greens I'd strongly consider addition of far red. Makes lettuce 3 times bigger. You could check out Bruce Bugbee on youtube. Its called far red the forgotten photon or something. Guy is a genius.
 
Yodaweed said:
They are old tech that will not live up to the hype, you probably made that par chart up to sell more products, so sad what the LED world is all lies and deceptive practices. Bet the next thing is that is a 1000w hps replacement.
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That's bullshit I'll smoke a de hps with 635w of led at 3.1 umols! Strips!
 
ilovereggae said:
my next project is to get a couple veggie tents setup to offset the grocery budget. has anyone done microgreens under QBs?
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You don't even really need light for microgreens. From the results im seeing with these qb132 v2's, youd get great microgreens with 2 boards on a 80w driver in a 2x4. Idk how low you can run a qb132 amd what drivers would work. Thought about it for years but I dont see it being worth it unless your prepared to make some large upfront investments.
 
christopher jordan said:
probably some over kill. Lettuce likes about 300 ppfd. If your doing leafy greens I'd strongly consider addition of far red. Makes lettuce 3 times bigger. You could check out Bruce Bugbee on youtube. Its called far red the forgotten photon or something. Guy is a genius.
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Nice I will check it out. We dont eat much lettuce but would like some kale and swiss chard.. although more likely will do microgreens for the higher nutrient content. As far as a regular veggies tent I am planning on trying some potatoes, peppers, and and maybe carrots havent decided yet.

Jqwerty1 said:
You don't even really need light for microgreens. From the results im seeing with these qb132 v2's, youd get great microgreens with 2 boards on a 80w driver in a 2x4. Idk how low you can run a qb132 amd what drivers would work. Thought about it for years but I dont see it being worth it unless your prepared to make some large upfront investments.
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Cool that sounds about right for the veggies tent, I agree on microgreens might be overkill but these v1 288s are so cheap right now im tempted to try it and run 3 of those at 40w each on an HLG120. I have some wire shelving i think I could make work if I do 1 board per shelf. Maybe strips would work better in this situation though?
 
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