MMJ Dreaming 99
Well-Known Member
May we ask what driver or drivers you have on each board? If you don't want to disclose it then that is cool too. Sweet set up.
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
May we ask what driver or drivers you have on each board? If you don't want to disclose it then that is cool too. Sweet set up.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Those are what I ordered it seemed like it was 1 optic per row but it's actually 3 so I have to order 16 more optics a link to the proper glue would be a nice addition to the site as well.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Yes that's the one.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Here is the glue that I used (have super glue remover and cotton balls handy)
http://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/rapid-fuse-all-purpose-adhesive/
It takes 8 optics per board. The optics are in 3 sections fused. So they can be snapped info 3 pieces.
Then I guess they shipped my the wrong order I ordered 8 using your link and got 8 small pieces doesn't even cover half the board. Also that part where you can snap them apart seems to be covering an led so 16 leds would be covered all together
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
We ordered ours in bulk. Sorry for the confusion.
LarsVegasNirvana
Well-Known Member
Just do the math. There is a table on the quantum board page at northern grow lights that shows the lumens per watt for various drive currents. A 1000w is about 130k lumens. So 130000/170 lumens per watt = 764.7 watts. Plus a little more for the driver loss.
If you change it to 180lm/w then it would be 722.2 watts.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Lots to quibble about here; first, why doesn't anyone ever include driver losses of the HID fixture? Second, how about reflector and glazing losses for it? Third, while I'm the first to admit that is difficult to mathematically account for, there is no doubt that multiple sources of light are far better than just one. Fourth, there is a substantial difference in the quality of the spectrum output, another variable unaccounted for in your analysis.
My conclusion is that you give the streetlight way too much credit here, and that my 670W fixture is going to beat that thouie handily- and indeed will be serious competition for even a DE HPS fixture on its 1150W setting.
Finally there's no mention of the difference in AC tonnage required, nor the watts expended on it. Factor THAT in and there's no contest.
MMJ Dreaming 99
Well-Known Member
Cynoacrylates? Oh - Super Glue. Do not use Super Glue around LEDs. VOCs? Is that like VD?
I was thinking it was an Aussie thing for a second. Something about Aussies obsessing over Abba.
MMJ Dreaming 99
Well-Known Member
I am really curious to see how hot your boards get. I can tell you that six 1000 watt HPS (not even DE too) in a not that well insulated garage in CO when it is -5 to -10 below F outside still gets very hot.
1150 W DE HPS fixture? I have a Nanolux DE that someone got for me that I will be testing.
My guess is those DE's will cause "liquid hot magma."
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
I don't think you mean 'all' ,as the blurple lights are multiple single diodes... there is no doubt that multiple sources of light are far better than just one.
Now, that quibble/correction aside, YES, I am pretty sure that taking a, say, Cree 3070 CoB apart and spreading it over a ~ 8 x 8 area would provide a much more homogeneous light spread (a 3590 even wider) which SHOULD be superior
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Oh, it is.
LarsVegasNirvana
Well-Known Member
The main reason it's not fair to compare with HPS stated lumen values is because of reflector losses. Most people don't grow vertically.
It was just a rough back of the napkin calculation. You're going to get much higher yields because of all the reasons people mentioned already, but also because the heat is lower, so you can place these boards much closer to the plants, so you lose less to the inverse square law. EXPONENTIAL LOSSES ARE A BIG DEAL!
This is how induction lights at 1/2 the efficacy can still provide more yield watt-for-watt compared to HPS. You can run them twice as close, which means they're 4x as bright.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse-square_law
It was just a rough back of the napkin calculation. You're going to get much higher yields because of all the reasons people mentioned already, but also because the heat is lower, so you can place these boards much closer to the plants, so you lose less to the inverse square law. EXPONENTIAL LOSSES ARE A BIG DEAL!
This is how induction lights at 1/2 the efficacy can still provide more yield watt-for-watt compared to HPS. You can run them twice as close, which means they're 4x as bright.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse-square_law
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Quite so. Yet another reason why it's high time to shitcan the streetlights once and for all.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Also Lumens are only good for comparing two light sources with almost exact spectrum.
A good example is 80 CRI vs 90 CRI. You'll get a lot less lumens with 90 CRI but will have very similar amounts of actual light.
welight
Well-Known Member
well theres no denying agnetha was a total honey, VOC=volatile organic compounds simply put this shit will turn your leds blacker that the keys on bennys keyboardCynoacrylates? Oh - Super Glue. Do not use Super Glue around LEDs. VOCs? Is that like VD?
I was thinking it was an Aussie thing for a second. Something about Aussies obsessing over Abba.
Cheers
Mark