robincnn
Well-Known Member
@Nutes and Nugs Boards will work great for that low height tent. 3x2x4
I like this arrangement better. Good luck
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
@Nutes and Nugs Boards will work great for that low height tent. 3x2x4
I like this arrangement better. Good luck
robincnn
Well-Known Member
No ladies under tha lamp.
ohh i mean in front of the lamp....
Nice job @Stephenj37826
He is requesting you to make a PAR chart if you get time.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Driver info Updated on website
https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/diy/products/quantum-boards?variant=27684088712
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Y'all got the Lighting Passport, not me!No ladies under tha lamp.
ohh i mean in front of the lamp....
Nice job @Stephenj37826
He is requesting you to make a PAR chart if you get time.
They'll be over plants soon, that's just a quick pic to show them off.
@Stephenj37826 did a great job with the lenses, very even!
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
I have some 1n5406 in the shop. 600v 3a. I retire in 25 days so I can get my shop opened back up. When I get all of my parts I will check the current on each and try to equalize the best I can. 4 are coming to test. I will put 1.5 amp picofuses in each panel leg as well.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Steve was too tired when he built those lamps.
Boards may have small variations. All drivers are not same too. Since they are type A drivers you can remove the black cover and use a screw driver and check if the driver current is all the way clockwise to max.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I'll play with the screw - It's something I'm good at, lolSteve was too tired when he built those lamps.
Boards may have small variations. All drivers are not same too. Since they are type A drivers you can remove the black cover and use a screw driver and check if the driver current is all the way clockwise to max.
View attachment 3856441
No way, man - he did good work.
As mentioned, 3% is fine with me, thanks for the education!
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Congrats on retirement.
Please share your build details. I am sure I will learn something new
Last time i used diodes was when i used transformers and built rectifier bridge to get DC.
If i am looking right at the datasheets, 1n5406 may help if the boards Vf different by more than 0.7V
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Check pot screws lol. I know they are different as one I adjusted testing the other I left stock lol.
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
High speed switching diodes have a bit smaller drop. Schottky even lower.Congrats on retirement.
Please share your build details. I am sure I will learn something new
Last time i used diodes was when i used transformers and built rectifier bridge to get DC.
If i am looking right at the datasheets, 1n5406 may help if the boards Vf different by more than 0.7V
View attachment 3856443
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
And you can series up as many as you like.Congrats on retirement.
Please share your build details. I am sure I will learn something new
Last time i used diodes was when i used transformers and built rectifier bridge to get DC.
If i am looking right at the datasheets, 1n5406 may help if the boards Vf different by more than 0.7V
View attachment 3856443
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I do plan to make them slide for even distribution across the floor to start with.
I found a Lux meter app for my phone which is a cheap way to determine light spread for us non-scientists.
You gave me an idea to use the center holes and attach a piece of either steel or aluminum flat stock
with longer screws and nuts on top of the flat bar to mount it in the frame.
(the frame I had pictured was an example)
I also must apologize and thought the LED panel took up all the space of the heatsink.
By the pix above and actually putting the two together I see there is a mounting lip around the whole heatsink.
I would have to grind a bit of the fins on the ends to fit it in my frame or go with my other idea of the flat stock.
Keep up the good work!
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
ChaosHunter
Well-Known Member
Bare wire just pushes in and locks. To unlock push down the tab to release.
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
Solid? Say 18 gage?
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
I'll get my magnifiers out and look tomorrow after work. I just unboxed them and took them out to the shop. It's been a long day at work.
shadow_moose
Well-Known Member
I've designed a light that can move on rails using these boards to lay the groundwork. The idea is, I can build the light thin enough that it can move through an adjustable height slot with rails going through it. Not sure how I'm gonna light proof the slot, but theoretically, I could use these boards to help double my flowering area while buying the same amount of lighting. I can use the light in one room, then as the light timer flips, instead of the light turning off, an automatic gate or door opener (I can get one of these for cheap) pulls the light along rails (like the ones your screen door rides on) through the slot to the next room over. I'm gonna build the slot using two projector screens so the slot between the projector screens can raise and lower depending on plant height. The rails on which the light runs will go through this slot and raise and lower with it. The slot will be light proofed, but I'm not sure with what. The light will moved with a an electric door opener or something like it, which will be controlled by a separate timer.
Each room is going to be the same size, and will receive 12 hours of light. Instead of having 2 lights, both of them off for 12 hours a day, I will have one thin light that moves between rooms every 12 hours. I can grow staggered in this way with a separate veg room of the same size. I would start new clones in veg every 30 days, harvest one room every 30 days, and start plants flowering. This would be like my current setup, except instead of lighting my current 8x4 flowering space I would technically only need enough light for a 4x4.
Really cool stuff, the only thing left to decide is whether this extension is gonna be an 8x4 SCROG or a vertical grow. I'm tempted to go with vert to start, but I might need some guidance. @ttystikk mind if I pm you a couple questions?
I'm gonna be getting one light to cover a 4x4 at about 1100 average ppfd if I'm going scrog. If I'm running vertical, I'll be getting two lights to each cover two 4x7 spaces.
Each room is going to be the same size, and will receive 12 hours of light. Instead of having 2 lights, both of them off for 12 hours a day, I will have one thin light that moves between rooms every 12 hours. I can grow staggered in this way with a separate veg room of the same size. I would start new clones in veg every 30 days, harvest one room every 30 days, and start plants flowering. This would be like my current setup, except instead of lighting my current 8x4 flowering space I would technically only need enough light for a 4x4.
Really cool stuff, the only thing left to decide is whether this extension is gonna be an 8x4 SCROG or a vertical grow. I'm tempted to go with vert to start, but I might need some guidance. @ttystikk mind if I pm you a couple questions?
I'm gonna be getting one light to cover a 4x4 at about 1100 average ppfd if I'm going scrog. If I'm running vertical, I'll be getting two lights to each cover two 4x7 spaces.
I thought of doing something similar but it seemed like more of a pain than its worth. If you do it please make a journal I'd love to see it. you could save money on drivers if you bought enough panels for both sides but only one set of drivers light each side for half the day.