ttystikk
Well-Known Member
@Stephenj37826 nice work on the optics, i can't wait to get them mounted and running to see what the ladies think of them!
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
zypheruk
Well-Known Member
The ladies will love it so much they will flash their tits for a photo lol.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Thermal paste is not required.
T1 is temperature of center of board.
T2 is temperature of center of heatsink directly behind the board.
This test was done at 1050ma so 115 watts and temperature difference of board and heatsink is only 1.5C
Not much to gain here by using thermal paste or other TIM
@LarsVegasNirvana thanks for sharing the pics of your DIY
Last edited:
robincnn
Well-Known Member
I tested the vertical orientation. Did not see any significant temperature differences. Will repeat test again soon.
In vertical orientation the bottom of the heatsink is cooler than the top of the heatsink. Hot air rises up so top is more hot.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
We buy Samsung general bin and Vf ranges from 2.7-2.9 Volts. I am seeing boards of different batches have up to 3% difference in voltages.
This means if you use boards from different batches in parallel then some boards(lower Voltage) could pull up to 50% more current than the other boards(Higher Voltage).
I test the boards before shipping and i also verify the voltage. For orders of multiple boards I ship from same batch and check to ensure voltage is similar. However if you order multiple boards separately then they may be different batches and voltage could be different.
For boards in different batches it is best to mount boards in series to avoid issues. Note that only max 2 boards in series.
I apologize I did not share this information earlier. I just received a new batch 2 days back and I wanted to share this finding as soon as i could.
I will update product listing to reflect this as soon as possible.
Which optics did you get? I ordered the 90 degree that was suggested on northern grow lights is there other options?
robincnn
Well-Known Member
He got F14344_FLORENCE-1R-ZT25
They are asymmetric and can be a tricky to work with. May required different orientations to be tested to see what works best for your space. Hard to do when you have to glue down the optics.
90 is good and easy option.
I was curious about mounting them what type of glue? Hopefully i don't mess this up haha
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
pop22
Well-Known Member
Good to know, thank you!
will an HLG-185H -c1050b drive 2 boards? I see by spec its a bit over voltage
will an HLG-185H -c1050b drive 2 boards? I see by spec its a bit over voltage
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Sounds like an awesome idea to try
I think you need a 240 1050 to run them in series
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
Would it be possible to series diodes (.6 v drop per junction) in series with a board with lower forward voltage. I've done this with 7805 regulators in the ground leg to change the voltage out. It may take several in series. Possibly mark boards for future reference?
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
I don't know how I got doubles but I did.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
With a driver say - HLG 185h 1400b ( from a previous cob build )
How many boards would best utilize this ?
Looking into a 3x3 space or do have to do a 2 driver 2 board build ?
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Is the 6" spacing between boards provide the best overlap ?
Curious if 3 boards arraigned as shown is too much ( or if it is required spacing between boards )
Looking for a 3x3 coverage
Maybe 4 ?
Curious if 3 boards arraigned as shown is too much ( or if it is required spacing between boards )
Looking for a 3x3 coverage
Maybe 4 ?
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
Got all my parts , now to put it all together.
The problem I'm having is how to mount the heatsinks.
I have this nifty track aluminum with a notch cut inside but the heatsink plus LED panel
is too thick to fit in the notch as well as being too crowded.
I was thinking of getting some flat strips of aluminum and mounting it in the notches but
not sure how to attach it to the heatsink. Maybe drill larger holes through both panel and heatsink with longer screws?
The problem I'm having is how to mount the heatsinks.
I have this nifty track aluminum with a notch cut inside but the heatsink plus LED panel
is too thick to fit in the notch as well as being too crowded.
I was thinking of getting some flat strips of aluminum and mounting it in the notches but
not sure how to attach it to the heatsink. Maybe drill larger holes through both panel and heatsink with longer screws?
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
Question 2
My room is 3 feet long - 2feet 4 inches wide - and 4feet 3 inches high. Basically 3x2x4
I'm into passive hydroponics. I have 2 plastic storage totes that the pots sit in and I water the totes
and the plants suck up the water. They fill up the room width wise.
So would it be best to place my panels like this
Or turn the one in the center like this
or it's gonna be so bright it doesnt matter.
I'll be glad to get away from my 10 bulb CFL set up in this short room.
I'll be posting some pix as I build the frame.
Merry Christmas
My room is 3 feet long - 2feet 4 inches wide - and 4feet 3 inches high. Basically 3x2x4
I'm into passive hydroponics. I have 2 plastic storage totes that the pots sit in and I water the totes
and the plants suck up the water. They fill up the room width wise.
So would it be best to place my panels like this
Or turn the one in the center like this
or it's gonna be so bright it doesnt matter.
I'll be glad to get away from my 10 bulb CFL set up in this short room.
I'll be posting some pix as I build the frame.
Merry Christmas