DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
DarthPlagueis
Well-Known Member
Would one quantum board be good for side lighting in veg/flower? I want to convert a mars 300, it came with two drivers pushes 60-101v, .635A each
or would it be better to buy a 36w, 300mA, 60-120v?
or would it be better to buy a 36w, 300mA, 60-120v?
ChaosHunter
Well-Known Member
Chef are you in a tent ? If so you need none, optics for open area grows. Reflective floors and walls act as the optics. Look at the tent grows "mine included" and look at the growth at the bottoms.
ChefKimbo
Well-Known Member
Not a tent, but i do have flat white walls. Thanks i was hoping i didnt need any optics or sidelighting.
RainDan
Well-Known Member
Hi @Stephenj37826 and @robincnn
Just wanted to drop in and say congrats. I've spoke with quite a few customers who are using your QB product and are very pleased. Keep up the great work - the fact they sold out so quickly speaks volumes.
Take care,
Dan
MMJ Dreaming 99
Well-Known Member
Top guys - Dan, Stephen and Robin
Top Lights - Timber Grow Lights and Northern Grow Lights
Top Lights - Timber Grow Lights and Northern Grow Lights
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Starting the Quantum Deep Red Experiment this weekend - 12/12 cycle.
15 min start prior to Main QB RIG power on -
run cycle with Deep Red then Main Rig off -
15 min Deep Red to off.
I'm bored and faded ... So time to experiment ..
15 min start prior to Main QB RIG power on -
run cycle with Deep Red then Main Rig off -
15 min Deep Red to off.
I'm bored and faded ... So time to experiment ..
qballizhere
Well-Known Member
Are you running 660 nm and 730? or just the 730?
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
It runs 630nm AND 660nm .
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Sweet.
Warpedpassage
Well-Known Member
if im reading you correctly, you are running the deep reds for 15 mins after your main lights go out for the day? I was under the impression it was the FAR reds (730nm) that were supposed to be run after lights out. Are you going to run any far reds? Just curious, not saying that what you are doing is incorrect.
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Its only an experiment to see if the addition of a deep red led to the quantum board spectrum is an added benefit for builders now scrambling to grab these boards. Whether colored leds are needed. I have access to another all blue - royal blue ( 447 nm ) light ( DIY ) - not mine but a friends homemade strip light build. But am more interested in any improvement to available light made by the quantums. I want to do UV maybe a strip light as a switchable add-on to my main build but since i have the 2 G8 lights ready to be brought back in , i figured it couldn't hurt to experiment.
I am brainstorming another build ( 3 panel ) rail and want to see if adding a red spec. to the build's design is warranted.
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
Finally got my panels up.
Made a frame from channeled aluminum but had to cut the heat sinks a bit to get them to fit.
Put two plastic electrical boxes on the frame, one to connect the AC input. This box also serves as auxiliary timer switched outlet for more lights or heat bulbs.
I also grounded the frame here.
The other box will house fuses for each panel and the dimmer control.
Took down the old 10 bulb CFL fixture.
It would draw about 200 Watts.
WIred the dimmer control for parallel operation and fuses can act like switches. I was thinking of turning off the middle panel the first week to 10 days of flower then on again after stretch takes place.
Wish I would have ordered a bigger driver. Got the HGL-120-C1400 (I think) but cranked up all the way it only draws 162 Watts but is so friggin bright.
Before switching the lights I took my phone with a Lux meter app and took readings from 16 places on the floor.
I couldn't believe my eyes when Lux jumped 4 times the reading of the CFL's.
Hard to see but this says 5980 (not sure what scale the app uses.
Testing the LED panel in the same place this number went to 20541. !!!!!!!!!
Still have some fine tuning to do then get some plants under this thing.
Thanks for the help and ideas. @Stephenj37826 and @robincnn
More to come someday...
Made a frame from channeled aluminum but had to cut the heat sinks a bit to get them to fit.
Put two plastic electrical boxes on the frame, one to connect the AC input. This box also serves as auxiliary timer switched outlet for more lights or heat bulbs.
I also grounded the frame here.
The other box will house fuses for each panel and the dimmer control.
Took down the old 10 bulb CFL fixture.
It would draw about 200 Watts.
WIred the dimmer control for parallel operation and fuses can act like switches. I was thinking of turning off the middle panel the first week to 10 days of flower then on again after stretch takes place.
Wish I would have ordered a bigger driver. Got the HGL-120-C1400 (I think) but cranked up all the way it only draws 162 Watts but is so friggin bright.
Before switching the lights I took my phone with a Lux meter app and took readings from 16 places on the floor.
I couldn't believe my eyes when Lux jumped 4 times the reading of the CFL's.
Hard to see but this says 5980 (not sure what scale the app uses.
Testing the LED panel in the same place this number went to 20541. !!!!!!!!!
Still have some fine tuning to do then get some plants under this thing.
Thanks for the help and ideas. @Stephenj37826 and @robincnn
More to come someday...
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
CFL to quantum boards, talk about stepping out of the Stone Age!
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
Nice build clean look
yep your under powered
frica
Well-Known Member
This is why I'm so hard against CFL these days.
I've already seen that generic LED bulbs that are 80-90 lm/w can get the same yield as CFL with only 1/3rd the wattage.
Just makes no sense to use CFL anymore.
ChaosHunter
Well-Known Member
GrowUrOwnDank
Well-Known Member
You know. Plants just need light and Feed it is all you have to do. Light, nutrients, air. Am I wrong?