diy stealth tutorial

There use to be a really good video tutorial on how to turn an old chest of drawers into a stealth cab. I can't find the video for the life of me
Can anyone point me on the right direction, was an awesome vid

rosswaa said:

There use to be a really good video tutorial on how to turn an old chest of drawers into a stealth cab. I can't find the video for the life of me
Can anyone point me on the right direction, was an awesome vid

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There is still alot of nice vids. What did you need help with? What do you already have?

I have this, but wanted to see how to turn the drawers into a door and make it light proof. The video I saw showed perfect but I can't seem to find any that show how to turn drawers into a door and still be lightproof

cool little grow space. best of luck with the build. what light or lights are you planning on using in it?

I'm gunna use cfl for this as iv already got a load but planning on getting some cree cxa3070s. They seem the best option for the available space

I would recommend getting ply wood cut to the size you need and then take the face of the draws and glue/screw or however you want to get it on there, and the find some hinges lol

But that sounds way to easy so there must be something wrong with my idea lol

You could ghetto that door with duct tape and cardboard or you can just buy a piece of 1/4" or 1/2" ply or any wood as twitch stated up there, buy a set of door hinges and some thick tape of some sort to seal the cracks. Then buy one of those cheap pad lock hinges. Thats all you need for an enclosed air tight box. Now for ventilation,multiply length x width x height = cubic feet. To replace the air inside the internal volume once every two minuits you would start your calculation by cubic feet devided by 2. Example. 3X3X3=27/2 = 13.5cfm. You will need a minimum just for a 3x3x3 space an intake and exhaust vent that is capable of 13.5cfm(dont forget to give some headroom to count for efficiency or turbulent loss) when you add lights, try to double the cfm per every 15 degrees of increase and give even more headroom if your trying to use a carbon filter. You could have more then 1 fan, and just keep only one on while the lights are off if its too cold where you live. Remember, intake low and exhaust high on the other side. For lights, well pretty easy. Paint the entire inside white or fabricate the walls with mylar, then use cfl's or LED's. You will probably have to bring your cubic foot formula to cubic foot devided by 1 if you want yo use some type of HID lighting.

Sounds good, cheers for that. If I got ply and made a door, would I need to trim the inside to make a lip? Not sure how it would seal it so its still accessible?

Yes, I would make the ply to be able to fit just on the inside where the drawers use to be so it has the lip

Either an interior door that had a lip like you said, or an exterior door that covers the outside of the box basically sandwiched in between some adhesive tape. The lip is the better way.

Was thinking that draft stuff for doors around the lip ( the weird stick on foamy strips) or make a zip tent type sheet on the inside so when you open it you then just unzip and you're in just to seal 100%

You are on the right track there. I would take plywood and mount the shelve faces to it. Then get a pair of 'concealed hinges' which are just hinges that mount on the inside of a cabinet. If you use a regular hinge it will be exposed and look more like a door. The concealed hinge will allow the door to overlap the boarder of the cabinet, where you can put weather striping. If you look up how to install a concealed hinge it should make more sense... You my need to attach some 1x2s around the inside that will allow a little more overlap on the side with the hinges. I'll get some pics of mine a little later .

Zoltan32 said:

You are on the right track there. I would take plywood and mount the shelve faces to it. Then get a pair of 'concealed hinges' which are just hinges that mount on the inside of a cabinet. If you use a regular hinge it will be exposed and look more like a door. The concealed hinge will allow the door to overlap the boarder of the cabinet, where you can put weather striping. If you look up how to install a concealed hinge it should make more sense... You my need to attach some 1x2s around the inside that will allow a little more overlap on the side with the hinges. I'll get some pics of mine a little later .

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That would be awesome buddy, I really want to make this look as standard as possible and not leak any smells, the last one I did was useless and made the whole house stink lol