MostlyCrazy
New Member
If you ain't got ph problems at some point in hydro you ain't tryin'. If it were mine I would use a clothes pin/paperclip as a flow control but remember I'm mostly crazy! LOL!
Diy bubbleponics
- Thread starter Roseman
- Start date
flogger
Active Member
Well that crazy idea might work. I will definitely try that.
I use a PH Down solution that I got from petsmart. You think that is cool to use. I mean it drops the PH, but then the next day the PH has crept up again. I am wondering if I use a PH down from a hydro store it might work better.
What do you think?
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I'm thinking ph down is ph down but don;t know for sure. I do have the same problems with my ph. Works like this for me on a res change. Add water - tap water is 7.5 ph with 400ppm -yes that sucks but kind of fun in a mad scientist sort of way. PH down the water to 6.2, add nutes - PH at 6.1, add additives - liquid karma, cal mag, cannazyme and superthrive - PH at 6.0. Add to tank. Within one hour it is back to 6.8-7.0. Add 5ml of down to my 6 gal of water. PH to 6.5. Next day - back up to 7.0. 5ml of down again. back to 6.4, back up next day to 6.8, 5ml down to 6.2. 6.7 next day, 5 ml of down to 6.2. Stays that way the until the next res change. In veg I run around 5.8 to 5.9 so I add 5 ml down the next day if in veg and it stays there. In flower I run 6.2-6.3. I think the secret is to do it in small steps. If my end result is betwwen 5-5 and 6-5 I don't stress. Different nutrients are better absorded at different ph levels so skating around a little isn;t all that bad unless you do it all at once. Ain't natural I tell ya! LOL
flogger
Active Member
OK. So it looks like that is just the way it goes then. I can chill a little then cause the same happens to me although my seedling are too small right now for nutes.
Thanks MostlyCrazy for clearing all this up for me.
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
Ok, so i've been lookin up every bit of growing info i can find, and to be honest, it's wayyyy too much to handle, from the million different watering systems, to mediums, to reflectors, to fans and ducting and the the nutes and g per watt and my god my head could explode...
I believe i've come to the conclusion i will do a DWC grow, but there's just a few questions and or suggestions im lookin to have answered... thanks!
1. i'd like to grow 3-5 plants and flower them when they fill a 4 'x6 'Screen for SCROG, i will be using either 2x 600W HPs or 1x 1000W and 1x 600, i just see it being a pain in the ass to have two different strength lights going in the same flower room.. so basically, i'd like to know roughly how long id have to veg an average indica to fill that screen with this method?? from seed with either of those set ups
2. for the size im sure i will need to grow them to, theres about no way i can fit all of em in one of those 10Gal rez, so aside from having 4 x 5gal buckets, 4 x air pump, 4x water pump, 4 rez to clean, is there anyway i can go about this to set it up more conveniently for what im aiming for?? perhaps using a 500Gph water pump in a large rez, drillin a drainage hole in each bucket at top approx 2-3in below net pot so it doenst over fill? while adding drain at bottom of each when re-fillin the rez and re-nuting every 2weeks?
or would i better to go with another system altogether?? like an aero or something?? im just thinkin maybe this set up doesnt suit my needs.. and lastly, assuming i grew em out nice, the filled the screen perfect,i had no nute problems, no light probs, even canopy, no pest probs, no nothing but perfect growin conditions... what would be the max yield i could expect to get?? even as newbie grower would .5G per Watt be askin too much? should i really invest in CO2 and regulator and controller? i know it's supposed to yield approx 30% more, but, is that assuming youre dr greenthumb and you MAXIMIZE everything, and that a newb might make some mistakes along the way and cause that 30% to be like 3%?
lots of questions, and i got a shitload more im sure, but i;ll leave it at that, this is my first post ever so, thanks to all the people who take the time (and for some, the risk) to post and help other people out, particularly roseman, al b fuct, and whoever the other apparent more experienced people on this forum are
oh, also, Roseman, i read several times about his its superior to drip because it 'trickles'.. but, how do you get the trickle effect? is it because the pump you're using only puts out that much pressure or is there some kind of valve somewher eyou open / close to adjust flow?
I believe i've come to the conclusion i will do a DWC grow, but there's just a few questions and or suggestions im lookin to have answered... thanks!
1. i'd like to grow 3-5 plants and flower them when they fill a 4 'x6 'Screen for SCROG, i will be using either 2x 600W HPs or 1x 1000W and 1x 600, i just see it being a pain in the ass to have two different strength lights going in the same flower room.. so basically, i'd like to know roughly how long id have to veg an average indica to fill that screen with this method?? from seed with either of those set ups
2. for the size im sure i will need to grow them to, theres about no way i can fit all of em in one of those 10Gal rez, so aside from having 4 x 5gal buckets, 4 x air pump, 4x water pump, 4 rez to clean, is there anyway i can go about this to set it up more conveniently for what im aiming for?? perhaps using a 500Gph water pump in a large rez, drillin a drainage hole in each bucket at top approx 2-3in below net pot so it doenst over fill? while adding drain at bottom of each when re-fillin the rez and re-nuting every 2weeks?
or would i better to go with another system altogether?? like an aero or something?? im just thinkin maybe this set up doesnt suit my needs.. and lastly, assuming i grew em out nice, the filled the screen perfect,i had no nute problems, no light probs, even canopy, no pest probs, no nothing but perfect growin conditions... what would be the max yield i could expect to get?? even as newbie grower would .5G per Watt be askin too much? should i really invest in CO2 and regulator and controller? i know it's supposed to yield approx 30% more, but, is that assuming youre dr greenthumb and you MAXIMIZE everything, and that a newb might make some mistakes along the way and cause that 30% to be like 3%?
lots of questions, and i got a shitload more im sure, but i;ll leave it at that, this is my first post ever so, thanks to all the people who take the time (and for some, the risk) to post and help other people out, particularly roseman, al b fuct, and whoever the other apparent more experienced people on this forum are
oh, also, Roseman, i read several times about his its superior to drip because it 'trickles'.. but, how do you get the trickle effect? is it because the pump you're using only puts out that much pressure or is there some kind of valve somewher eyou open / close to adjust flow?
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
permalink
First you have to realize that the pH is going to change daily as the nutrients are eaten. That means adjusting it daily. Goal is that those daily changes be slight and not major. And too, different sources of water yield different pH problems.
You have to have pH balanced nutes, or a buffer or a stabilizer in the water to keep it from roller coasting and spiking up and down.
I've done some research on pH Control and I 'd like to offer some advice and my opinion.
NEW growers worry about it too too much, and the biggest mistake they make is trying for a perfect contstant same pH.
You will do better, to just try to keep it between 5.6 and 6.8 without changing it often. Plants eat more nitrogen at 5.7 to 5.9 than at 6.7 to 6.9. But they eat more iron and magnesium at 6.5 to 6.8. You need a fluctuating pH level for your plants to absorb different nutes at different levels.
When you get your water, add nutes and pH test it, no matter what the results, if it is between 5.6 and 6.4, leave it alone or only adjust it slightly by .1 to .2 down.
DO NOT PLAY the pH Game.
Do NOT ride the pH Roller Coaster.
It is better to be off, too high, or too low, than to adjust it too much at one time.
Drastic or FAST adjustments really mess up the entire system.
Adjust gradually, and slowly.
The pH should not vary more than .5 to .7 everyday, and if it does flucuate alot more up OR down daily, something is wrong.
First, ask yourself, IF growing in HYDRO, what is going into the tank? Water, Nutes, pH UP and Down should be it. Adding anything else, WHEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM, is not the wisest thing to do. (Yes, sometimes some small amount of peroxide or hydrozyme might be needed, but I've done 7 grows without it.)
And if you are making NUTE SOUP, ( a nute mix and supplement mix) I can not advise you about your pH.
Except for the very first time you add the water to the tank, You should pH balance your water FIRST, everytime, outside of the tank, then add the nutes, pH balance it again, then add it to the tank. It should not go up more than .5 within one day or 1.0 in two days.
If it does go up more in one day or two days, you got to do something to stabilize it. After the first two or 3 weeks pass, and the plants are drinking a gallon a day, you can add one gallon back that is over adjusted or over compensated, to get it back down. FOR EXAMPLE, If the tank is reading 7.2, then add one gallon of 6.0, and you'll get it down SOME, without it being too drastic.
DRASTIC pH CHANGES WITHIN 24 HOURS ARE VERY DANGEROUS.
OR
Try adding a lump of charcoal or two, tied in a panty hose or nylon stocking to the tank.
Go to Walmart or PetSmart to the Aquarium Dept, next to the fish food, filters and additives and sea salts, and get those little packages of Ammonia Control absorbent packets. They look like little sponges in a wrapper. I can not remember what they are called, but they work great to stabilize the pH. Or get the Ammonia control pellets and add a few to the tank.
Get everything in your tank like you want it, (except the roots or plants,) and add two heaping tablespoons of baking soda to a gallon of water,Stir it good, then add it to the tank. Wait ten or 15 minutes, then pH adjust it again. Then it should stay stabilized until the next Drain and Replenish.
A buffer solution is an aqueous solution consisting of a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base or a weak base and its conjugate acid. It has the property that the pH of the solution changes very little when a small amount of acid or base is added to it. Buffer solutions are used as a means of keeping pH at a nearly constant value in a wide variety of chemical applications.
You can simply add two heaping table spoons of baking soda to your water, (before yu put it in the tank). Yes, it will wreck the pH, but then you adjust it with pH Down, and then it will stay more stable for a few days.
Primarily what one needs to add to the water are neutralizers and buffers that will stabilize the acid and alkaline levels to the degree that is required for the plants. Most of these stabilizing products are sold in great volume at any pet store that specialized in aquariums and tropical fish and if one is not familiar with what product to purchase, then one should consult with the qualified salespeople so as to arrive at a specific product that will properly address the specific needs of the fish and their owner. You want something that rduces the acid.
instead of buying a buffer, you can simply put a cube of charcoal, or a lump of peat moss tied up in a nylon stocking, and add it to your tank.
First you have to realize that the pH is going to change daily as the nutrients are eaten. That means adjusting it daily. Goal is that those daily changes be slight and not major. And too, different sources of water yield different pH problems.
You have to have pH balanced nutes, or a buffer or a stabilizer in the water to keep it from roller coasting and spiking up and down.
I've done some research on pH Control and I 'd like to offer some advice and my opinion.
NEW growers worry about it too too much, and the biggest mistake they make is trying for a perfect contstant same pH.
You will do better, to just try to keep it between 5.6 and 6.8 without changing it often. Plants eat more nitrogen at 5.7 to 5.9 than at 6.7 to 6.9. But they eat more iron and magnesium at 6.5 to 6.8. You need a fluctuating pH level for your plants to absorb different nutes at different levels.
When you get your water, add nutes and pH test it, no matter what the results, if it is between 5.6 and 6.4, leave it alone or only adjust it slightly by .1 to .2 down.
DO NOT PLAY the pH Game.
Do NOT ride the pH Roller Coaster.
It is better to be off, too high, or too low, than to adjust it too much at one time.
Drastic or FAST adjustments really mess up the entire system.
Adjust gradually, and slowly.
The pH should not vary more than .5 to .7 everyday, and if it does flucuate alot more up OR down daily, something is wrong.
First, ask yourself, IF growing in HYDRO, what is going into the tank? Water, Nutes, pH UP and Down should be it. Adding anything else, WHEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM, is not the wisest thing to do. (Yes, sometimes some small amount of peroxide or hydrozyme might be needed, but I've done 7 grows without it.)
And if you are making NUTE SOUP, ( a nute mix and supplement mix) I can not advise you about your pH.
Except for the very first time you add the water to the tank, You should pH balance your water FIRST, everytime, outside of the tank, then add the nutes, pH balance it again, then add it to the tank. It should not go up more than .5 within one day or 1.0 in two days.
If it does go up more in one day or two days, you got to do something to stabilize it. After the first two or 3 weeks pass, and the plants are drinking a gallon a day, you can add one gallon back that is over adjusted or over compensated, to get it back down. FOR EXAMPLE, If the tank is reading 7.2, then add one gallon of 6.0, and you'll get it down SOME, without it being too drastic.
DRASTIC pH CHANGES WITHIN 24 HOURS ARE VERY DANGEROUS.
OR
Try adding a lump of charcoal or two, tied in a panty hose or nylon stocking to the tank.
Go to Walmart or PetSmart to the Aquarium Dept, next to the fish food, filters and additives and sea salts, and get those little packages of Ammonia Control absorbent packets. They look like little sponges in a wrapper. I can not remember what they are called, but they work great to stabilize the pH. Or get the Ammonia control pellets and add a few to the tank.
Get everything in your tank like you want it, (except the roots or plants,) and add two heaping tablespoons of baking soda to a gallon of water,Stir it good, then add it to the tank. Wait ten or 15 minutes, then pH adjust it again. Then it should stay stabilized until the next Drain and Replenish.
A buffer solution is an aqueous solution consisting of a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base or a weak base and its conjugate acid. It has the property that the pH of the solution changes very little when a small amount of acid or base is added to it. Buffer solutions are used as a means of keeping pH at a nearly constant value in a wide variety of chemical applications.
You can simply add two heaping table spoons of baking soda to your water, (before yu put it in the tank). Yes, it will wreck the pH, but then you adjust it with pH Down, and then it will stay more stable for a few days.
Primarily what one needs to add to the water are neutralizers and buffers that will stabilize the acid and alkaline levels to the degree that is required for the plants. Most of these stabilizing products are sold in great volume at any pet store that specialized in aquariums and tropical fish and if one is not familiar with what product to purchase, then one should consult with the qualified salespeople so as to arrive at a specific product that will properly address the specific needs of the fish and their owner. You want something that rduces the acid.
instead of buying a buffer, you can simply put a cube of charcoal, or a lump of peat moss tied up in a nylon stocking, and add it to your tank.
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
If you have a flow of water, a stram of water, it has to be on a Timer, even a DRIP, or they will drown. They can not be in jsut SOLID water.Ok, so i've been lookin up every bit of growing info i can find, and to be honest, it's wayyyy too much to handle, from the million different watering systems, to mediums, to reflectors, to fans and ducting and the the nutes and g per watt and my god my head could explode...
I believe i've come to the conclusion i will do a DWC grow, but there's just a few questions and or suggestions im lookin to have answered... thanks!
1. i'd like to grow 3-5 plants and flower them when they fill a 4 'x6 'Screen for SCROG, i will be using either 2x 600W HPs or 1x 1000W and 1x 600, i just see it being a pain in the ass to have two different strength lights going in the same flower room.. so basically, i'd like to know roughly how long id have to veg an average indica to fill that screen with this method?? from seed with either of those set ups
a SOG and a SCROG are normally very small grows. Most SOGs are plants crowded and only about 15 to 18 inches tall. Why buy the BIG lights for a SMALL grow?
2. for the size im sure i will need to grow them to, theres about no way i can fit all of em in one of those 10Gal rez,
Look at mine, one up to 46 inches tall, in a 8 gallon tank with 6 gallons of water:
so aside from having 4 x 5gal buckets, 4 x air pump, 4x water pump, 4 rez to clean, is there anyway i can go about this to set it up more conveniently for what im aiming for?? perhaps using a 500Gph water pump in a large rez, TOO BIG drillin a drainage hole in each bucket at top approx 2-3in below net pot so it doenst over fill? while adding drain at bottom of each when re-fillin the rez and re-nuting every 2weeks?
Bro, you're really thinking TOO BIG for a first time Hydro grow. You talk about doing a SOG (very small plants) then you talk about a giant tank, (Major big Work) then you talk about 5 gallon buckets???? (No one does SOGin buckets)
or would i better to go with another system altogether?? like an aero or something?? im just thinkin maybe this set up doesnt suit my needs.. and lastly, assuming i grew em out nice, the filled the screen perfect,i had no nute problems, no light probs, even canopy, no pest probs, no nothing but perfect growin conditions... what would be the max yield i could expect to get??
IN a small SOG, or a 5 gallon bucket or in a giant tank?
even as newbie grower would .5G per Watt be askin too much? should i really invest in CO2 and regulator and controller? i know it's supposed to yield approx 30% more, but, is that assuming youre dr greenthumb and you MAXIMIZE everything, and that a newb might make some mistakes along the way and cause that 30% to be like 3%?
lots of questions, and i got a shitload more im sure, but i;ll leave it at that, this is my first post ever so, thanks to all the people who take the time (and for some, the risk) to post and help other people out, particularly roseman, al b fuct, and whoever the other apparent more experienced people on this forum are
oh, also, Roseman, i read several times about his its superior to drip because it 'trickles'.. but, how do you get the trickle effect? is it because the pump you're using only puts out that much pressure or is there some kind of valve somewher eyou open / close to adjust flow?
The BubbleHeads all use a TRICKLE that is a mix of Water, Oxygen, and nutes, that is so bubbley, they do not drown. We use a 185 gph up to a 240 gph. NOT a 500 gph like you mentioned.
Dr. Greenhorn
Well-Known Member
Awesome thread!
tdkharmsway
Member
hey roseman, i just got my bubbleponic system in yesterday. i set everything up and my seeds have germinated. i planted them and they are now under 24 hr fluorescent lights.
my question is to how long should i run the water and air pump?
my question is to how long should i run the water and air pump?
MostlyCrazy
New Member
All the time. 24/7.
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
Roseman,
thanks for the timely response, although I'm not sure what you mean??i think you were slightly confused... I was saying SCROG not SOG, from what ive seen some people fill relatively large screen with only 1-2 plants, so i figured 4-5 if i planned on vegging them out nice n wide under the screen .. but figured this setup might not work for the surface area i wanna cover...seems like they would be too close together to sprawl that much.... when i said i nthe post 'either of those setups' i wasnt implying SOG or SCROg i meant the two light combinations i was considering previously.. i actually never mentioned SOG at all... and i was lookin to know if it's a hassle to have a 1000watt and 600 next to each other in flower because of the different heights they will be then the 600 getting in the way etc etc.. i didnt directly ask but figured someone would chime in if it was not a good idea..
i dont see why you're insisting it's so big, i mean.. 3-5 plants is minimal, granted i dont want to do some 60 watt cfl mini closet grow, but it's hardly .. BIG, i mean, i really plan on the two 600w so thats only 1200w in 4' x 6' isnt that optimal?? 50w per sq ft? i thought that was the norm...
As for the 5 gallon tank confusion, i was suggesting that IF i cannot put 5 big plants in you diy setup, with the intent of vegging them nice and long to fill up the screen....for whatever reason like because of root space or something god knows what, thats why i was asking, cause i dont know.. to be honest you almost seem offended or something... as for my suggestion of 500gph pump it was just random number i chose approx 2-3x yours because i was picturing having the big rez (maybe 20-22 gal) pumping to the seperate 5gal buckets each (lets say 4 of them ) , so i figure i'd need more flow to get to all of them than you need to pump in your diy .. hopefully you see my logic now... i was planning to have the bubblers going in the rez and keeping it carbonated THEN sending it to all the different buckets.. but i didnt realize that doin it that way, it would be impossible because the water would stagnate in the 5gal while it sits there waiting to overflow back to the rez... other than putting bubblers in every individual bucket i dont see another way.. i can draw you a picture if you really still dont understand what im trying to say but i feel its more clear now... should be anyway
And i understand the principle of why they can survive the way they do because of the oxygen and nutes, always intended on having them get it, just what i was proposing would not be enough, unless like i just said i put bubblers in every bucket AND the rez to keep all the water breathable.. as for ppm and ph problems and what not, that you may be referring to ask 'major big work' from having a big rez, i had no idea, again, the reason i was asking..
thanks for the timely response, although I'm not sure what you mean??i think you were slightly confused... I was saying SCROG not SOG, from what ive seen some people fill relatively large screen with only 1-2 plants, so i figured 4-5 if i planned on vegging them out nice n wide under the screen .. but figured this setup might not work for the surface area i wanna cover...seems like they would be too close together to sprawl that much.... when i said i nthe post 'either of those setups' i wasnt implying SOG or SCROg i meant the two light combinations i was considering previously.. i actually never mentioned SOG at all... and i was lookin to know if it's a hassle to have a 1000watt and 600 next to each other in flower because of the different heights they will be then the 600 getting in the way etc etc.. i didnt directly ask but figured someone would chime in if it was not a good idea..
i dont see why you're insisting it's so big, i mean.. 3-5 plants is minimal, granted i dont want to do some 60 watt cfl mini closet grow, but it's hardly .. BIG, i mean, i really plan on the two 600w so thats only 1200w in 4' x 6' isnt that optimal?? 50w per sq ft? i thought that was the norm...
As for the 5 gallon tank confusion, i was suggesting that IF i cannot put 5 big plants in you diy setup, with the intent of vegging them nice and long to fill up the screen....for whatever reason like because of root space or something god knows what, thats why i was asking, cause i dont know.. to be honest you almost seem offended or something... as for my suggestion of 500gph pump it was just random number i chose approx 2-3x yours because i was picturing having the big rez (maybe 20-22 gal) pumping to the seperate 5gal buckets each (lets say 4 of them ) , so i figure i'd need more flow to get to all of them than you need to pump in your diy .. hopefully you see my logic now... i was planning to have the bubblers going in the rez and keeping it carbonated THEN sending it to all the different buckets.. but i didnt realize that doin it that way, it would be impossible because the water would stagnate in the 5gal while it sits there waiting to overflow back to the rez... other than putting bubblers in every individual bucket i dont see another way.. i can draw you a picture if you really still dont understand what im trying to say but i feel its more clear now... should be anyway
And i understand the principle of why they can survive the way they do because of the oxygen and nutes, always intended on having them get it, just what i was proposing would not be enough, unless like i just said i put bubblers in every bucket AND the rez to keep all the water breathable.. as for ppm and ph problems and what not, that you may be referring to ask 'major big work' from having a big rez, i had no idea, again, the reason i was asking..
JonnyBtreed
Well-Known Member
welcome to the thread man...
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jonny,
i appreciate the answers, as for your ventilation cost that sucks, but in my climate i will have no such problem, if anything i'll be using a space heater to keep things warmer! im talkin -20 -30C as an average..
as for what im looking for yield wise, yours sounds just about right, but the more the merrier, anything over 448 and im all smiles.. but if i can turn 448 into 700 or even more by using scrog method, a decent light set up, im sure i could get away fine with 600W but what am i looking at? maybe maybe 224G if im lucky.. .. as im not too worried to spend a few bucks on the important things that are worth it in the end.. im sure a lot of people aren't as fortunate in that dept.
oh, ive also been contemplating odour control, given what im lpannin on doing, should i go with real can filter combo type or will diy be able to actually handle cleaning the air (i read the diy one with pencil cups and a nylon, that was some smart stuff.. but i can only ask myself.. what kind of cfm does that thing allow, 3cfm lol.. let me know if you got a clue, i plan on going at least 3x bigger than whatever my room 'needs' in terms of fan cfm.. so i can run it on a speed controller at like 40% keep noise down.. you think in a climate like mine, if passive intake from outside in those temps, i would even really need the ventialtion for anythin other than air circulation?? then again i could make then air cooled hoods and with the cold air id be pulling in they'd be running REALLLL cool no worries of burning anything.. thats the problem, so many options, and you cant try em all at once.. and im really tempted to try the co2, but i can hold off one if need be..
i appreciate the answers, as for your ventilation cost that sucks, but in my climate i will have no such problem, if anything i'll be using a space heater to keep things warmer! im talkin -20 -30C as an average..
as for what im looking for yield wise, yours sounds just about right, but the more the merrier, anything over 448 and im all smiles.. but if i can turn 448 into 700 or even more by using scrog method, a decent light set up, im sure i could get away fine with 600W but what am i looking at? maybe maybe 224G if im lucky.. .. as im not too worried to spend a few bucks on the important things that are worth it in the end.. im sure a lot of people aren't as fortunate in that dept.
oh, ive also been contemplating odour control, given what im lpannin on doing, should i go with real can filter combo type or will diy be able to actually handle cleaning the air (i read the diy one with pencil cups and a nylon, that was some smart stuff.. but i can only ask myself.. what kind of cfm does that thing allow, 3cfm lol.. let me know if you got a clue, i plan on going at least 3x bigger than whatever my room 'needs' in terms of fan cfm.. so i can run it on a speed controller at like 40% keep noise down.. you think in a climate like mine, if passive intake from outside in those temps, i would even really need the ventialtion for anythin other than air circulation?? then again i could make then air cooled hoods and with the cold air id be pulling in they'd be running REALLLL cool no worries of burning anything.. thats the problem, so many options, and you cant try em all at once.. and im really tempted to try the co2, but i can hold off one if need be..
tSunami13
Active Member
Depending on cost issues you can't beat a good fan. You can make a filter out of a 5 gallon bucket. Drill holes in the bottom for airflow, cover it with a prefilter (fish stores are a good place for this), get a furnace airfilter (preferable hepa) cut it to fit, fill with carbon (from fish store) if enough furnace filter left cut a second cover carbon, and cover with prefilter, cut 3-5 inch hole in lid and run duct into it. Homemade filter cheap! If smell is an issue a filter of some sort is needed.
ShaneGully
Member
Roseman nice setup i was wondering if you could flower using bubbleponics systems ? or would it be easier to just have 1 bucket per 1 plant and have a air stone to each bucket hooked up to a 4 way air pump so 4 buckets 1 4 way output air pump
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I've done 5 grows seed pop to flower and get about 3oz per plant on average.
Solcyn26
Well-Known Member
i just recently had some busts go down in the neighborhood and i had to shut down shop...i think its probably a better idea for me to keep my plant numbers low..i was at 27 when the busts went down....they went to my neighbors house too close for comfort...anyway my point is im gonna have to build maybe a 2-3 plant unit...whats the smallest container size u recomend...10 gals right....does anybody have a rough idea what 2-3 plants under a 600w in a 10gal bubbleponics unit would yield...im just lookin for a rough high low number.. thank alot for all the help guys and pray for me the pigs dont come back
MostlyCrazy
New Member
Rough idea for me in a BP is about 3z's dried per plant depending on strain. 600w should make that happen easy. Be safe!
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
I do the entire grow, in the system.
It might be easier to use individual buckets, but I don't.
tSunami13
Active Member
IMO, just my exp with buckets.
If it is the same strain go with the BP setup, makes it nice and easy. If your doing different strains at the same time, buckets are the way. Buckets allow for individual adjustments for each plant. I have 5 different strains, and there are two of them that I can throw everything at them and they keep getting bigger, while I have others that just keep plugging along, not demanding very much at all. Some strains will out grow others, not good having multi strains in the BP. Buckets are easier for a perpetual grow.
Consider space, strains of weed, and what your goal is. It is all to easy to get sidetracked trying different things. Set your goal and stick to it. Then plan accordingly. Best of luck.