Did tap water killed my plant ?

I was thinking about trying this recipe. Maybe I should cut on the dolomite if I keep using hard water ?
What do you guys think about it from your experience ?
25 Liters used soil*
  • 10 Liters fermented bokashi compost*
  • 10 Liters worm castings*
  • 5 Liters perlite
  • 1 cup fish meal 5-5-6
  • 1 cup alfalfa meal 2.5-0.4-2.5*
  • 1 cup organico pellets 6-4-1*
  • 1 cup potassium powder 2-0-20*
  • 1 cup kelp meal*
  • 1 cup Lava rock meal*
  • 1 cup dolomite powder*
  • 1 cup epsom salt*
  • 1 cup humic acid*

To add ? Bat Guano, Rockphosphate, betonite
 
juansensor said:
Hello guys,

my Wedding cheesecake auto started overall yellowing during week 2 of flower. Since then nothing nothing I did made anything better and the damage are now reaching the sugar leaves. I’m kind of hopeless now.

I’m growing in soil with 1/3 compost, 15% worm castings and organic soil (cellmax bio soil). I have been top dressing with worm castings and giving it microorganism to maintain some life in it.
I was thinking i was dealing with potassium deficiency as the symptoms may suggest but after giving them cellmax bio organic bloom fertilizer, it even got worst.

i had a look at my tap water analysis. 110 mg/l calcium, 11 mg/l. Is it possible that the plant suffers from excess of calcium which cause the potassium etc deficiency ?

thanks for your help.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Wow there is a lot of chaff in these threads!

OP it's not complicated if you step back and consider. When running organic, some plants use more nutrients than others. I do organic water only and often can see some make it the distance and others need help along the way. Unless you use very large pots it is almost impossible to get through a run without supplementing.

What happened imo, is that plant used its nutrition up faster and needed supplementation (bottle or topdress). Stretch goes so fast that fast growing plants can use up a ton of nutes. I dont think chasing Ca or trying to see if it's your water makes sense. The other plant looks good.

As for all the look at my plants posts or worse, those posting other peoples plants, grow the fxxx up already.

Those posts are precisely why these threads suck. Nobody gives a sxxx about your feuds and perceived sleights!
 
Thanks for all the tipps. I’ve used 11 liter container which was definitely a bad idea. Next time i try with 25L at least or even 40L.

to be honest I didn’t expect the plant would grow so big under the 150W led light. It’s very possible that not enough amendment, a too small container and lack of real top dressing caused the overall sickness
 
juansensor said:
I was thinking about trying this recipe. Maybe I should cut on the dolomite if I keep using hard water ?
What do you guys think about it from your experience ?
25 Liters used soil*
  • 10 Liters fermented bokashi compost*
  • 10 Liters worm castings*
  • 5 Liters perlite
  • 1 cup fish meal 5-5-6
  • 1 cup alfalfa meal 2.5-0.4-2.5*
  • 1 cup organico pellets 6-4-1*
  • 1 cup potassium powder 2-0-20*
  • 1 cup kelp meal*
  • 1 cup Lava rock meal*
  • 1 cup dolomite powder*
  • 1 cup epsom salt*
  • 1 cup humic acid*

To add ? Bat Guano, Rockphosphate, betonite
Click to expand...
reads like a recipe for disaster

do you want to plant in only fertilizer ingredients and even further amend it with mineral salts and what not else...
 
What would you change ? Or may i ask if you have a recipe I can start with ?

for this one I tried to adapt the subcool with the supply I have access to
 
Kass can reply but I think he is suggesting using a premade organic fertilizer i.e. Epsoma, Down to Earth. You can mix an amendment mix of your own too and mix with the organic fertilizer. The stronger the overall mix, the longer it needs to cook to be useable.
 
ComfortCreator said:
Kass can reply but I think he is suggesting using a premade organic fertilizer i.e. Epsoma, Down to Earth. You can mix an amendment mix of your own too and mix with the organic fertilizer. The stronger the overall mix, the longer it needs to cook to be useable.
Click to expand...
yeah exactly, the fertilizer is the important part and if you screw that up your plant won't grow well at all.

Peat, EWC, Dolomite vary slightly in content so you gotta make shure to arrive at a balanced NPK with a tendency of N & K higher.
There's also BB Premix... or any organic tomato fert that should be high in K, mediocre P and low N, so you'd need some slow release N source like horn scraps/meal though your fishmeal may do that job, too.

2:1 calcitic to dolomite for buffer Ca, Mg & micros. The EWC contains lots of plantfood, too, that just needs to be imbued with myks, MO's, "Recharge" etc or a compost tea, tiny amount of molasses/carbs.
 
larfybudz said:
Hence why I said I’m new?

Shame people like you ruin such a good forum like this.

@sunni i see nothing but trolling from this member always.
Click to expand...
yes they both have issues constantly at eachother derailing threads. its fucking annoying for everyone its being handled
 
You should think about just getting some Gaia green all purpose 444 and power bloom 284 dry amendments and just mix at recommended rates for container gardens with promix or something similar let cook 3-4 weeks.
Done,super easy.
You can either just mix the all purpose for your mix and top dress during flowering with all purpose and power bloom.
You can also mix 3/4 all purpose 1/4 power bloom in your original mix or some similar ratio.
No matter what you need to top dress unless your growing in really big pots/bed. I've always had to top dress. If I didn't I would have deficiencies big time.

As for top dressing I top dress starting at 2 weeks or before if I think it might need it. I usually start with 3/4 all purpose 1/4 power bloom then second top dress I do 1/2 all purpose - 1/2 power bloom and so on till I'm just giving power bloom last top dress or 2.

This time I'm just gonna give 50/50 mix for all top dressings and see how it goes.
 
Hello back friends, it’s been 3 weeks now and I harvested the plants.

The cbd fix went very well after adding 4-5ml/ liter of cellmax bio bloom and the buds really got swollen and frosty. Right after I stopped feeding it before harvest, the yellowing started immediately so the soil was definitely totally out of gas.
Unfortunately the wedding cheesecake kept looking more deficient every week even with the feeding. As the buds seemed like they were as rippen as they would get, I decided to harvest even tho they don’t look so nice. moke test will show the rest.

For the next grow I’m planning to use the green house feeding bio nutrient line as it sounds like it satisfies many people. Just order the starter kit and 2 bags of light mix and I’ll see how it does.

The first photo is from 21.4 and the rest from yesterday.
 

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