Coco Growers Unite!

Jug Stomper

Well-Known Member
Oh, and wth a drip system or auto waterer, is the rez supposed to have the nutes already in it or do I do that by hand.
 

asaph

Well-Known Member
Oh, and wth a drip system or auto waterer, is the rez supposed to have the nutes already in it or do I do that by hand.

TDS is less hard to get than pH - it may well be that the cheap ones will do the trick for you - but I wouldn't know, I only have the HM one.

Some do water/feed/water/feed in coco, I prefer to feed every time. Also depends on your method - with drips 4 times a day I guess you don't have to feed every time.
If you use a res, you want the nutes to be in it, be defeating the purpose without it...

the thing about coco is that feeding and getting runoff (that cleans it) every time allows you to keep a more or less constant medium content - ppms and ph. This makes it a lot more like hydro (DWC for instance) than like soil, only with the benefit of using pots and being able to water by hand, and the more important benefit of not having to keep your water saturated with oxygen - the coco will do that for you (unless you water it constantly). It can never be overwatered (unless the plants are small still and have not filled the medium with roots).
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
TDS is less hard to get than pH - it may well be that the cheap ones will do the trick for you - but I wouldn't know, I only have the HM one.

Some do water/feed/water/feed in coco, I prefer to feed every time. Also depends on your method - with drips 4 times a day I guess you don't have to feed every time.
If you use a res, you want the nutes to be in it, be defeating the purpose without it...

the thing about coco is that feeding and getting runoff (that cleans it) every time allows you to keep a more or less constant medium content - ppms and ph. This makes it a lot more like hydro (DWC for instance) than like soil, only with the benefit of using pots and being able to water by hand, and the more important benefit of not having to keep your water saturated with oxygen - the coco will do that for you (unless you water it constantly). It can never be overwatered (unless the plants are small still and have not filled the medium with roots).
Plus you get all the micro life in coco that you get in soil :)
 

lambofgod

Well-Known Member
Plus you get all the micro life in coco that you get in soil :)
I've been using this



But not that....the 3oz packages with NO ferts...just the myco.


mixing 2 tsp per gal of coco. We'll see how it works, was made by the dude who grows the worlds largest pumpkins or something. My buddy who grows coco is swearing by this stuff.
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
I use canna coco pro its got some trichoderma already present, and then cannazym to keep them goin...................defo a thought for the future added some different kinds to my coco tho!
 

lambofgod

Well-Known Member
I use canna coco pro its got some trichoderma already present, and then cannazym to keep them goin...................defo a thought for the future added some different kinds to my coco tho!
I haven't used cannazyme for a couple couple grows now. Just haven't re ordered it. The stuff for sure breaks down roots though. I fed it to 3 monsters the whole way through. after I pulled the root ball, I let the 3 gal bags sit for a couple days.

After I chucked the bags all I found was coco and perilite....maybe 5% roots. And it smelled so fresh and earthy.

Gonna have to buy some more.
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
I haven't used cannazyme for a couple couple grows now. Just haven't re ordered it. The stuff for sure breaks down roots though. I fed it to 3 monsters the whole way through. after I pulled the root ball, I let the 3 gal bags sit for a couple days.

After I chucked the bags all I found was coco and perilite....maybe 5% roots. And it smelled so fresh and earthy.

Gonna have to buy some more.
Yeh mate defo a must if your re-usin the coco................i only use every 3rd feed once ive stopped usin the rhiz so goes a long way too.
 

lambofgod

Well-Known Member
Yeh mate defo a must if your re-usin the coco................i only use every 3rd feed once ive stopped usin the rhiz so goes a long way too.
I used it all the way through, from start to finish. I havnt noticed much of a difference without it, just the roots being non existent once the plant is harvested.
 

Jug Stomper

Well-Known Member
So, say I go ahead and use canna nutrients and canna coco, and I water by hand until there is 30% run off, I would water every day and use the nutes every day? And also, if I have my pots on trays, do I to get rid of the run off or let it evaporate and suck back up into the coco? Sorry for so many questions it has just been hard finding and sorting through every ones methods to get all of the questions I need answered. But as far as that meter goes, I need one that reads ppm's right? I have ph drops.
Oh and one more thing, do I plant the seedlings straight into the coco or can I pop the bean after it cracks in there, and how soon to start feeding nutes?
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
So, say I go ahead and use canna nutrients and canna coco, and I water by hand until there is 30% run off, I would water every day and use the nutes every day? And also, if I have my pots on trays, do I to get rid of the run off or let it evaporate and suck back up into the coco? Sorry for so many questions it has just been hard finding and sorting through every ones methods to get all of the questions I need answered. But as far as that meter goes, I need one that reads ppm's right? I have ph drops.
Oh and one more thing, do I plant the seedlings straight into the coco or can I pop the bean after it cracks in there, and how soon to start feeding nutes?
Hi mate this info is off the thread below, it helped me alot when i was startin in canna coco, ................use nutes every day and yes get rid of the run off, and i have planted a cracked seed in coco and it germed but now i use root riots then stright to coco hope this helps mate good luck

The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread


Canna Notes:

Rhizotonic: - Develops roots and can be used as foliar spray after transplanting or to reduce stress. Use the Rhizotonic at the high end of the spectrum (10ml-15ml per gallon) during the early stages of veg. Once the root system is big and established and you are in your final size container, then you can drop the dose down a bit, and once you are a week or 2 into 12/12, then u can drop it down to 2ml per gallon until about week 5 or six. For foliar feeding (until flowering starts), mix the Rhizotonic at 2ml per gallon. Spray it right when the lights come on, while the room and plant temps are still low, and so the leaves have time to dry before dark. Use it 3x per week, or every other day.

Cannaboost: - Kind of useless, but good as foliar spray. Use it at the low rate, 8 ml/gal applied every other day. It has little EC and will not affect the plant to much. Also, only adjust the pH if it is way out of bounds but if between 5.2 and 7.9 don't worry about it. Apply from the point of photoperiod change (12/12) to about 1 week prior to harvest if possible.

Cannazym: - Stimulates bio life - rinse coco with double dose cannazym after harvesting to use the coco up to 3 times. let it soak for a day, then replant. it decomposes old roots and stuff, then turns it into nutrients

PK 13/14: - Tends to be best used in a 7 - 10 day window starting about the time you see first flower formation. This typically, on an 8 week flower response group, to be about 5 weeks before harvest or 2-3 weeks after flower initiation (not light change). Adding it early will not advance or benefit flower initiation, only the amount of dark the plant sees will initiation flowering. Adding too early could result in phosphate accumulation and ratio issues involving Ca and Mg. If using A/B at full strength, cut it back a little as you introduce the PK. The best way to dial in the PK takes some trial and error work. This can be anything from 3 - 10 days after switching light cycle or the natural trigger for flower is received by the plant. Remember a plant has to convert to flower in most cases which takes a little time from the moment the dark cycle increases or decreases based on the species of plant being grown. Use PK for about a 3 week window at each irrigation along with the other components. Then you can stop. You really can not use PK too long except in the final week or so, or giving it too early. You want to use it when the buds are forming and just starting to kind of wrap around the branch (right before they start linking together)

Nutrient schedule for seedlings: - 1ml a+b and 1 mil rhizo - go a bit higher with every watering till you get to the normal chart level. PH to 5.2-6.2 (5.8 is a safe spot). Canna nutrient chart: http://www.cannagardening.com/growguide

Nutrient schedule for clones: - Start with 8ml (each A/B bottle) per gallon and if there is no sight of burn, quickly move up to 10-12 ml per gallon. PH to 5.2-6.2 (5.8 is a safe spot). Use solution within 4 days.

Nutrient Mix Order: - Cal/Mag (if using), then Rhizotonic, then A/B etc.. - let sit for a couple hours or overnight if possible. Then adjust PH to 5.2-6.2 (5.8 is a good middle) and use it. Always add anything with Calcium first. Probably no need for cal mag until flowering if using non RO (city) water. If you use any product with silica in it then it should be added to your feed water before adding other nutes or you'll get nutrient lockout/dropout in the mix.

Watering: - Never use just plain water with coco. Use the A/B with EVERY watering except during the final flush. During the flush, just use Cannazym. If you want to reuse the coco (up to 3 times), then use a double dose of Cannazym during the flush. After plant removal, soak coco in double dose rhizotonic once more and let it soak for 24 hours, then it's ready to re-use. Re-using canna coco is good because the micro life gets built up from the previous grow.

PH: - Stay between 5.2 and 6.2. 5.8 is a good safe spot

Magnesium deficiencies: - Show as yellowing in-between the veins on the leaf and sometimes rust spots
Calcium deficiencies: - Show as brown edges on the sides of the leaves, and eventually twist and curl up and die. Calcium is important for cell density. A steady supply will increase yields.
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
Any comments regarding using coco coir or coco chunks for flood and drain system? I'm considering this for my next setup. Thanks in advance.
 

ActionHanks

Well-Known Member
Cant get my seedlings to do the right things in coco guys :/
I am a MURDERER.
I think i've directly/indirectly done away with 10-12 over the last month.
So. I've got 100 actual W of 6500k cfls in a 2x2x3 rubbermaid, 2 fans, one 125 exhaust and an axial inside moving air, temps 69-83.

Couple of questions about coco and about seedlings.
-I rinse the coco until the runoff is pretty clear right?
-Should the coco stay pretty damp? Not like saturated but moist?
-I am using really small 3in diameter net pots, i should probably water 1-2 times a day, 3-8 tblspoons?
-Do you guys use heating mats in your seedling's first week or so? I've had a few break soil, but they've all damped off, or just growing unbelievably slow.
 

BeaverHuntr

Well-Known Member
Hows it workin out for you mate the top drippin in airpots?.....thinkin about doin it myself, im allready in airpots what size do you use?
The hydro store here in my town only had the 5 liter air pots for sale ( 1.25 gallons) . I love using top drip recirculating its easy and not much maintenance .
 

Paperhouse

Active Member
Has anyone here ever transplanted from soil to coco late in veg? How should I go about doing it? Just rinsing all the peat moss off the rootball and dropping it directly into the coco?
 
Top