Can't solve Powdery Mildew after week 4 of bloom. Need advice

colonuggs

Well-Known Member
I tried the milk spray tonight just before lights out so we'll see how things go over the next few days.

Is spraying once a week enough, or will I need to spray more frequently?
The OP doesnt.... thats who i was talking too
 

panrod

Member
30 mls of 3 percent h2o2 plus 20mls isapropal alcohol per liter. Add a few drops of sunlights as a wetting agent and mist mist mist. Eliminate any standing water in your room, reservoirs etc and watch your humidity in the off cycle when it gets bad. this recipe can be sprayed while lights are on due the quick drying time of the alcohol and should be mixed fresh every day as h2o2 breaks down in water. Test on one plant first!!!
 

Buggins

Active Member
The OP doesnt.... thats who i was talking too
The lights go off, but the ventilation and fans remain on for half an hour or so after lights out. The plants are completely dry within an hour so I don't have any problem with bud mold spraying before lights out.
 

Zoltan44x

Active Member
Did You try UV-C ? Germicidal aquarium bulbs can kill mold.
Here's a video of Thomas from Serious seeds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s45L5h4HCro

I have a simple DIY version of this.
It was able to kill gray-black mold in the bathroom.
Never had a reason to use on my plants yet. But I think it will help.
If it works , this is the cleanest option to go (unless You're exposed to the light, its dangerous)

uvc.jpg


More discussion here .. https://gagegreen.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=630
 

george xxx

Active Member
Did You try UV-C ? Germicidal aquarium bulbs can kill mold.
Here's a video of Thomas from Serious seeds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s45L5h4HCro

I have a simple DIY version of this.
It was able to kill gray-black mold in the bathroom.
Never had a reason to use on my plants yet. But I think it will help.
If it works , this is the cleanest option to go (unless You're exposed to the light, its dangerous)

View attachment 2313320


More discussion here .. https://gagegreen.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=630

Good for some basic info. Germicidal lamps are nothing new. Very effective for bacterial growth in difficult to treat places. Did not view vid but I've read some. Do a search on germicidal lamps. They are not a mainstream item because they can be Downright Hazzardous :!: The harm they can do is not reversable.


untitled.JPG
 

Zoltan44x

Active Member
Zoltan, this is entirely new info to me. I will check it out, thank you.
You're welcome. Please let us know if You try and works for You.


Good for some basic info. Germicidal lamps are nothing new. Very effective for bacterial growth in difficult to treat places. Did not view vid but I've read some. Do a search on germicidal lamps. They are not a mainstream item because they can be Downright Hazzardous :!: The harm they can do is not reversable.
View attachment 2314207
Thanks for Your input.
Yes they are really dangerous. But can also be a great weapon, if used carefully.
I don't have PM. But it will be the first thing to try for me if I have it.
 

Sencha

Active Member
The lights go off, but the ventilation and fans remain on for half an hour or so after lights out. The plants are completely dry within an hour so I don't have any problem with bud mold spraying before lights out.
If you ventilation goes off after your lights shut down, what's your RH at night? Must be through the roof.

Ever try a sulfur burner?
 

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
From now on I will always spray my plants in Veg and clones with Eagle 20 in the fall and winter months before flipping to flower to prevent PM. Eagle 20 systematically breaks down the fungal cell tissue and kills it completely. You can try other solutions and fail time and time again. Nearly anything else you try will suppress PM, not kill it. It does not take long for it to re surface as it lives inside the plant. The baking soda and potassium bicarbonate sprays only lower the surface PH of the plant causing PM to temporarily disappear. A single treatment of Eagle 20 and the stuff is gone for good. Use 2tsp per gallon and spray the entire plant.

http://www.pestmall.com/eagle-20ew-fungicide-1-pint.html
 

smallclosetgrowr

Well-Known Member
no time to read all the posts sorry put i have a horticulture degree, if u are getting powderery mildew u SHOULD NOT foliar feed AT ALL.keep humidty down and make sure the foliage stays dry and keep the humidity down, also dont waste your time on the next grown until u completly make sure your grow room if clean of this mildew, i suggest your bleach your grow area
 

Buggins

Active Member
So far so good Jaydub. One application provided a substantial reduction in the visible mildew on the affected plants. I'm going to apply a second application this evening. I ended up using a dilution of 1 part skim milk to 5 parts water. I also added a few drops of organic hemp soap into a 1 litre sprayer and this worked well and gave me excellent coverage and contact on my leaf surfaces.

As for smallclosetgrower - not to be rude, but if you took the time to read the thread you would already know that I bleached the room on a regular basis, it doesn't make a difference here. My humidity levels are always in check too - my ventilation is probably overkill for the size of my room. The only time humidity creeps up over 50% is after a feeding, but my extraction fan easily exhausts the humid air within about an hour. Humidity is back to normal dry levels shortly after watering/feeding.

It comes down to the surrounding environment. I live in an area of the pacific northwest where pm is just unavoidable due to the environment. I could have better than laboratory standards with my sterilization, and a simple stroll from my door to my grow room would be all it take to re-infect the room.

In veg it's easily controlled with regular neem oil and Green Cure treatments (alternating), it's half way through flowering when I stop using neem and green cure that the problem comes back. The milk so far is working well. This may be my solution.
 

Buggins

Active Member
From now on I will always spray my plants in Veg and clones with Eagle 20 in the fall and winter months before flipping to flower to prevent PM. Eagle 20 systematically breaks down the fungal cell tissue and kills it completely. You can try other solutions and fail time and time again. Nearly anything else you try will suppress PM, not kill it. It does not take long for it to re surface as it lives inside the plant. The baking soda and potassium bicarbonate sprays only lower the surface PH of the plant causing PM to temporarily disappear. A single treatment of Eagle 20 and the stuff is gone for good. Use 2tsp per gallon and spray the entire plant.

http://www.pestmall.com/eagle-20ew-fungicide-1-pint.html
I refuse to use this poison on my plants.
 

Sencha

Active Member
Sucks man. I wish you luck.

Maybe a hepa filter on your intake? Keep a pair of sandals outside your grow (I do this.)?
 

Buggins

Active Member
Update: Using skim milk at 100ml/L, spraying the entire plant buds and all, every three days, has been keeping my plants mildew free just before harvest. If I stop spraying, it returns after about a week. No problem, the milk seems to have no negative effect on the plant, and it even gives the leaf a nice sheen to it like neem oil. However, unlike neem oil which cannot be washed off with water, the milk residue just rinses away. Just before harvest I spray it down good with purified water, stick it in front of a fan for an hour, and it's dry and ready to chop.

There have been no foul rotten milk smells like I expected, and no pistil burn like I get with green cure. As long as the plants are dry within an hour of spraying (which mine are) the moisture doesn't stick around long enough to cause mold.
 

gaztron3030

Active Member
no time to read all the posts sorry put i have a horticulture degree, if u are getting powderery mildew u SHOULD NOT foliar feed AT ALL.keep humidty down and make sure the foliage stays dry and keep the humidity down, also dont waste your time on the next grown until u completly make sure your grow room if clean of this mildew, i suggest your bleach your grow area

Glad I didn't go to your Education Institute!
 

Irie Genetics

Active Member
If you have mildew you need to find the cause. you are simply masking the problem. UNTIL YOU CORRECT THE CAUSE IT WILL NEVER STOP.Why would you spray MORE moisture onto a problematic plant? Moisture is the cause of your mildew. Im glad I wont be smoking your contaminated weed. Giving mildewed weed to sick people is bad karma.
 

gaztron3030

Active Member
If you have mildew you need to find the cause. you are simply masking the problem. UNTIL YOU CORRECT THE CAUSE IT WILL NEVER STOP.Why would you spray MORE moisture onto a problematic plant? Moisture is the cause of your mildew. Im glad I wont be smoking your contaminated weed. Giving mildewed weed to sick people is bad karma.

Moisture is not always the cause of mildew. Some methods of control state to wet the leaves with alkaline water to create an unsuitable environment for the mildew.
Powdery Mildew does not like wet conditions! It's worst when the weather is dry
 
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