CalMag deficiency? RDWC

So I’ve had this problem for a few days. The lower fan leaves developed these yellowish spots, then they turned tan, then eventually brown. This is my first hydro grow so I’m a bit confused. Plants are a about three weeks old, maybe someone here can tell me what the problem is

Strain: Huckleberry (75% indica/25% sativa)
Medium: Hydroponic
Room temp: 68-72F
RH: 40-45
Water temp: 65-69F
Water: RO
PH: 5.8
Feed strength: 550 EC
Nutrients:
CalMag: 3ml/gal
FloraMicro: 0.5ml/gal
FloraGrow: 0.5ml/gal
FloraBloom: 0.5ml/gal
Floralicious plus: 1ml/gal
Rapid start: 1ml/gal
Hydro Guard: 2ml/gal

Possible PH?
How often do you change res? Topoff?

TintEastwood said:

Possible PH?
How often do you change res? Topoff?

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sorry, meant to post PH is 5.8. I check it very often. I haven’t had to top off much because they don’t drink much cuz they’re so young. But I have done it a couple of times. Haven’t done a res change yet tho. Meaning to do one soon but having problems with my RO filter. Afraid to use tap cuz my water is like 200ppms and has fluoride/chlorine in it.

ddeck96 said:

sorry, meant to post PH is 5.8. I check it very often. I haven’t had to top off much because they don’t drink much cuz they’re so young. But I have done it a couple of times. Haven’t done a res change yet tho. Meaning to do one soon but having problems with my RO filter. Afraid to use tap cuz my water is like 200ppms and has fluoride/chlorine in it.

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I find the flouride keeps the cavities away lol. I always have used city tap water just make sure to sit for 24 hrs and make sure its room temp first. Only thing i see is your temps and humidity is pretty low i find i get nutrient issues if i run to low with a low ph. I run at 6.2-6.3 with letting ph fluctuate cause with my low res and air temps it doesnt move nutes as good is my best guess everytime i try running lower ph i have defficiencies. Have u calibrated your ph pen lately? How do the roots look but to me it looks like what happens when roots are small it may move mobile nutes from low fan leaves but its shouldnt do it as plants roots get bigger.

ddeck96 said:

sorry, meant to post PH is 5.8. I check it very often. I haven’t had to top off much because they don’t drink much cuz they’re so young. But I have done it a couple of times. Haven’t done a res change yet tho. Meaning to do one soon but having problems with my RO filter. Afraid to use tap cuz my water is like 200ppms and has fluoride/chlorine in it.

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My first grow was DWC with tap. That was early this year.(late January-mid june)I just found out last week my ppm out the tap is 620. My plant did great surprisingly with very little knowledge into it. I'm switching to RO because I think it was a fluke that it worked out as well as it did

rkron0413 said:

My first grow was DWC with tap. That was early this year.(late January-mid june)I just found out last week my ppm out the tap is 620. My plant did great surprisingly with very little knowledge into it. I'm switching to RO because I think it was a fluke that it worked out as well as it did

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or maybe theres alot of hype put into ppm and ph and temps thats doesnt really affect weed quality and quantity hmm cause i do everything except more light power than the avg guy and im all different from “norms” and have great crops.

Kdoggy said:

I find the flouride keeps the cavities away lol. I always have used city tap water just make sure to sit for 24 hrs and make sure its room temp first. Only thing i see is your temps and humidity is pretty low i find i get nutrient issues if i run to low with a low ph. I run at 6.2-6.3 with letting ph fluctuate cause with my low res and air temps it doesnt move nutes as good is my best guess everytime i try running lower ph i have defficiencies. Have u calibrated your ph pen lately? How do the roots look but to me it looks like what happens when roots are small it may move mobile nutes from low fan leaves but its shouldnt do it as plants roots get bigger.

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i can give that a try. I calibrate my pen regularly. Roots look good, no sign of slime or rot. I upped my dose of CalMag cuz I thought it might be a calcium deficiency. That was about 12 hours ago now, it ha spread since then though. This is my first hydro grow, not really sure how long it should take for her to uptake the nutes and for the spread to stop?? (If cal/mag is indeed the culprit)

ddeck96 said:

i can give that a try. I calibrate my pen regularly. Roots look good, no sign of slime or rot. I upped my dose of CalMag cuz I thought it might be a calcium deficiency. That was about 12 hours ago now, it ha spread since then though. This is my first hydro grow, not really sure how long it should take for her to uptake the nutes and for the spread to stop?? (If cal/mag is indeed the culprit)

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Usually u gotta see improvement in 24 hrs or thats not the problem. I always have spare reservoir change water if in 1.5 days looking worse i do a complete res nute change and raise the lights up and that seems to always fix it. I only run flora series 3 part nothing else. I do 1/3 reccomended on bottle for nutes all the extra stuff isnt needed tbh its all in the flora series. But i dont use cal mag cause i use tap water. Did u add cal mag first then micro?

Kdoggy said:

Usually u gotta see improvement in 24 hrs or thats not the problem. I always have spare reservoir change water if in 1.5 days looking worse i do a complete res nute change and raise the lights up and that seems to always fix it. I only run flora series 3 part nothing else. I do 1/3 reccomended on bottle for nutes all the extra stuff isnt needed tbh its all in the flora series. But i dont use cal mag cause i use tap water. Did u add cal mag first then micro?

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yeah it’s time for a res change definitely. Having problems with my RO system so I may have to just use tap water for a week or so. Yeah I add my nutrients in the order listed in the original post.

Kdoggy said:

Usually u gotta see improvement in 24 hrs or thats not the problem. I always have spare reservoir change water if in 1.5 days looking worse i do a complete res nute change and raise the lights up and that seems to always fix it. I only run flora series 3 part nothing else. I do 1/3 reccomended on bottle for nutes all the extra stuff isnt needed tbh its all in the flora series. But i dont use cal mag cause i use tap water. Did u add cal mag first then micro?

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Im so new to hydro (first run ever) and may be in a bit over my head here. It sounded so fun I just wanted to jump right into it haha. So far I do like it much better than soil/coco. Much less work IMO!

Do you have any advice for a first timer? It doesn’t have to pertain to the topic of the thread. Just maybe things I haven’t thought of or don’t know about that could make things easier for me? You don’t have to, of course. It would be much appreciated, though!!!

ddeck96 said:

yeah it’s time for a res change definitely. Having problems with my RO system so I may have to just use tap water for a week or so. Yeah I add my nutrients in the order listed in the original post.

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Ya deff wirth doing it thats the great thing of hydro things are recovered easy with a nute change.

ddeck96 said:

Im so new to hydro (first run ever) and may be in a bit over my head here. It sounded so fun I just wanted to jump right into it haha. So far I do like it much better than soil/coco. Much less work IMO!

Do you have any advice for a first timer? It doesn’t have to pertain to the topic of the thread. Just maybe things I haven’t thought of or don’t know about that could make things easier for me? You don’t have to, of course. It would be much appreciated, though!!!

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Ya i find it way easier too. This is what i do. I check my ph daily on any flowering plant. My seedlings and early vegging i dont much worry about phing after first check with res change. My ph in flowering always aim for 6.2 but as nutes get used up my ph drops till i hit 5.5 then i change reservoir(now my buddy just tops up with 1/3 dosage nutes and he never changes reservoirs but he gets way less poundage so i think its wrth the wasted reservoir nute costs). I run 1000w hps in one room and leds stacked in other and cfls and flourescents for seedlings and veg. Like i said i only use 3 part flora series nothing else excelt flushing i put a couple mls of flush for 2 day end flush. Just make sure you have more water than a complete res change just incase shit goes bad for some unknown reason and if ur plant is having issues raise the lights up a bit. If leaves are not praying but drooping its lack of o2 in water add air stone. Keep ur res temp at 65. Tent temp at 74-75 is what i do. And i get rid of any big leaf thats covering a bud site or if the leaf is half dead its gone. Thats kinda how i do it and honestly just sent a sample to some bc stoners i know for christmas and all 4 varieties were best they ever had and these guys ran ops so thats a deff compliment. Attention to ph in flower is all that matters i think having two ph pens to verify has saved my butt even on one of my plants this time my ph pen was 0.5 off and i had a 30 leaf dieoff in 24 hrs just happened to be on my low swing of ph just before res change. Thats kinda the short of it. Ive been doing indoor veg gardens before weed was legal to grow i used to do soil but once i learned hydro i dont buy veggies or weed lol. BIggest thing is never bring another plant in your indoor garden no clones nothing bugs destroy

have yuo checked for bugs? some of that damage looks like it was eaten

rkymtnman said:

have yuo checked for bugs? some of that damage looks like it was eaten

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I haven’t checked yet, you’re the first person who’s suggested it may be bugs. Which damage are you referring to btw? And what kind of bugs should I be looking for? I’ll check for all species under a 30-60x micro right now, but it would be nice to know what to look for (I.e. thrips, mites, aphids, etc.)?

I found this info helpful. The first section espesh...

Just do a res change for sure. Fresh nutes

oill said:

Just do a res change for sure. Fresh nutes

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I’ll have to wait at least til the 1st to do a res change cuz my RO system broke. Will my plants suffer a lot until then?
I thought about using tap water (200ppm with fluoride, chlorine/chloramine) but that’s makes me a bit nervous.
I’m currently letting about 10 gallons of tap sit out so the chloramine will gas off. It’s also raining pretty hard here right now, so I’m hoping to collect at least 10 gallons of rain water. I also have about 10 gallons of RO left, which altogether should be enough to fill my 30gal system (with the added benefit of diluting the impurities of the tap water)
Does this sound like a good idea?

ddeck96 said:

I’ll have to wait at least til the 1st to do a res change cuz my RO system broke. Will my plants suffer a lot until then?
I thought about using tap water (200ppm with fluoride, chlorine/chloramine) but that’s makes me a bit nervous.
I’m currently letting about 10 gallons of tap sit out so the chloramine will gas off. It’s also raining pretty hard here right now, so I’m hoping to collect at least 10 gallons of rain water. I also have about 10 gallons of RO left, which altogether should be enough to fill my 30gal system (with the added benefit of diluting the impurities of the tap water)
Does this sound like a good idea?

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Fluoride shouldn't effect
Chlorine evaporates in 24 hours... so leave it standing for a day. You'll be fine

Kdoggy said:

or maybe theres alot of hype put into ppm and ph and temps thats doesnt really affect weed quality and quantity hmm cause i do everything except more light power than the avg guy and im all different from “norms” and have great crops.

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Science disagrees my guy

Hey everything looks good otherwise!
I'm assuming you ment 550 PPM? if so, that looks good.
Make sure you are mixing your nutrients very well in between different parts. If they are too concentrated when you mix it might become locked out. It also matters the order you add the nutrients.
I would reccomend raising your PH. Vegetative stage, more cal/mag is consumed, and less phosphorus, so your plant will thrive better closer to 6.1 or even 6.3 (this is the optimal ph for cal/mag uptake)
I would also reccomend a light foliar feed of Epson salts for immediate relief to the plants