Best LED's For The Money

Hey hey, I like what I see! Very clean build! Nice!

And to your questions I can give you the following recommendations:


1. Wago clamps with 2, 3 or 5 connectors, easy to use and safe
2. yes, each type of switch should work as long as it tolerates V and A off the HLG-600
3. poti's needs a 8mm hole to mount. Drill one in the frame or use a small project box from ebay
4. I would not, instead isolite them and band them down to the backside. Maybe use them later!
5. PAR meter(129$+) or Lux meter(13$+), but 16-24" OC is safer, 12" can easily cause stress or bleaching on sensitive strains
6. Rope Ratchets, you got a pair for 6-7$ (ebay) or (10-12$) amazon
I still have an old project box with mounted poti lying around from an earlier open frame build, here are a few photos.
In the last photo you see what I have built last. If you are interested there are a few more ..

That driver appears to only be c/c adjustable from 8A to 16A. How are you going to overcome that?
http://www.meanwellusa.com/productPdf.aspx?i=339

Randomblame said:

Hey hey, I like what I see! Very clean build! Nice!

And to your questions I can give you the following recommendations:


1. Wago clamps with 2, 3 or 5 connectors, easy to use and safe
2. yes, each type of switch should work as long as it tolerates V and A off the HLG-600
3. poti's needs a 8mm hole to mount. Drill one in the frame or use a small project box from ebay
4. I would not, instead isolite them and band them down to the backside. Maybe use them later!
5. PAR meter(129$+) or Lux meter(13$+), but 16-24" OC is safer, 12" can easily cause stress or bleaching on sensitive strains
6. Rope Ratchets, you got a pair for 6-7$ (ebay) or (10-12$) amazon
I still have an old project box with mounted poti lying around from an earlier open frame build, here are a few photos.
In the last photo you see what I have built last. If you are interested there are a few more ..

Click to expand...

Thanks Random! Much appreciated.

5. I thought I had read in a few places that COB's were good for 1 ft square typically. That would be 12" OC spacing and a lot of people saying that (16) lights fills a 4' x 4' space well which would also be 16 square ft or 12" OC spacing on (16) COB's.
6. I am definitely leaning towards mounting the POT in a box to keep everything clean and protected.

Were you planning on running them in parallel?

Boatguy said:

That driver appears to only be c/c adjustable from 8A to 16A. How are you going to overcome that?
http://www.meanwellusa.com/productPdf.aspx?i=339

Click to expand...

Not sure I follow. Isn't that what the POT is for? To adjust the amperage?

What would be installed on the remote on / off wires if used? A switch? If not being used, would you connect them together or cap off? I'm going to be looking to start it up tonight so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Boatguy said:

Were you planning on running them in parallel?

Click to expand...

Series. I put a little wiring diagram together in prior post.

If wiring in a series you will need a constant current driver with an output of 288v at 2.7amps to drive a string of 8.
In parallel you would need 36v at around 24amps.
You should read the datasheet i linked above.

I have read the data sheet many times but I'm not an electrician. See the website image from Cobkits. Definitely lists that this driver can handle (16) 1212's at 1.04 amps a piece within the total 16.7 amp driver max. What am I missing here? Your saying I would need 24 amps.

Boatguy said:

Were you planning on running them in parallel?

Click to expand...

Thank you for correcting my stupidness Boatguy! You saved me an awful lot of wasted effort tonight. Adjusted the game plan a little bit and wired them all out in parallel today. See pictures below and let me know what you think.

Questions:
1. I now need to figure out which way to make DC connections: 10 port terminal blocks (really need 9) x 4 mounted inside junction boxes, marine terminal blocks, twist and solder or something else? Best terminal blocks?
2. Can I wire in a toggle switch to the RC +/-on / off wires for an on / off switch? See driver picture.
3. I need to install some quick disconnects to the AC power wires to allow driver to be separated from fixture. What type do you recommend?

Thanks!

Boatguy said:

If wiring in a series you will need a constant current driver with an output of 288v at 2.7amps to drive a string of 8.
In parallel you would need 36v at around 24amps.
You should read the datasheet i linked above.

Click to expand...

2,7A for a strings of 8x clu048-1212? Do you drive them so hard..?

BTW,
Such a driver (288v / 2,7a) would deliver 777 watts, LOL!
Have you read the datasheet...?

Hurdbird said:

I have read the data sheet many times but I'm not an electrician. See the website image from Cobkits. Definitely lists that this driver can handle (16) 1212's at 1.04 amps a piece within the total 16.7 amp driver max. What am I missing here? Your saying I would need 24 amps.

Click to expand...

You don't need 24A. The current is always divided by the number of consumers if wired in parallel, 16A:16COB's = 1A per COB, 24A:16 = 1.5A.
It depends on how hard you want to drive them.
@ 1.044A seems very good and quite efficient! ~ 154lm / w for gen.6!

You can also use Wago's for parallel wiring. A few 5-port Wago's will do the job. Connect 4 COB's in parallel to 4 parallel Strings then connect the 4 strings in parallel again and your are done.

Randomblame said:

You don't need 24A. The current is always divided by the number of consumers if wired in parallel, 16A:16COB's = 1A per COB, 24A:16 = 1.5A.
It depends on how hard you want to drive them.
@ 1.044A seems very good and quite efficient! ~ 154lm / w for gen.6!

You can also use Wago's for parallel wiring. A few 5-port Wago's will do the job. Connect 4 COB's in parallel to 4 parallel Strings then connect the 4 strings in parallel again and your are done.

Click to expand...

I'm using pc inlets with inbuilt switch, recovering fuse and additional filter and simple male outlets to realize daisy chain in my lamps but you need only one of the inlets. They are available with different fuse so choose one big enough. But there are a few other ways to connect the AC side of the driver.

Randomblame said:

2,7A for a strings of 8x clu048-1212? Do you drive them so hard..?

BTW,
Such a driver (288v / 2,7a) would deliver 777 watts, LOL!
Have you read the datasheet...?

Click to expand...

I did read the datasheet on the 1212's, and 2.7amps is there maximum operating voltage. I dont know from personal experience.
I am running 10 cree 1507's at around 300ma with two drivers. They are 36v chips.
Originally i was running two parallel strings off a single driver to keep voltage down, now i am using two drivers.
Wiring in parallel isnt a great idea with multiple cobs

Hurdbird said:

Thank you for correcting my stupidness Boatguy! You saved me an awful lot of wasted effort tonight. Adjusted the game plan a little bit and wired them all out in parallel today. See pictures below and let me know what you think.

Questions:
1. I now need to figure out which way to make DC connections: 10 port terminal blocks (really need 9) x 4 mounted inside junction boxes, marine terminal blocks, twist and solder or something else? Best terminal blocks?
2. Can I wire in a toggle switch to the RC +/-on / off wires for an on / off switch? See driver picture.
3. I need to install some quick disconnects to the AC power wires to allow driver to be separated from fixture. What type do you recommend?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I use terminal blocks at work all the time. You can buy them with covers and skip the boxes unless you're looking for water tight. Mcmaster carr sells waterproof plastic boxes if you feel you need them.

Im not sure about the remote on/off function, no experience messing with one.

For quick connects all ive ever used are deutch connectors on stranded wire. The automotive style tool is pretty cheap and gives you water tight connections, im not sure if they are rated for ac though. You would have to research. I know nothing about wago's but i have heard alot of mention of them on this forum.

Hurdbird said:

Hello All:

First post from a first time grower so bare with me. I have a 4'x4' tent with seedlings progressing nicely towards veg. I started the seedlings on a Mars 300 when they were ready and planned on using between 2-4 Mars 300's for my grow as I was given them for free from a friend but I am quickly finding out that I will not be very happy with the results after reading through the forums a bit. I don't care about massive yields as I am growing for personal use but would obviously like to use something that will produce good results. What are your suggestions for the best LED's for the money? Budget would be approximately $500 for the 4'x4' tent if at all possible. I would like LED's that could provide light for both cycles. Thank you all in advance! It is much needed and appreciated.


Sean

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i switched from hps to ceramics a few years ago and fell in love with the 315 watt lec's,,that said i just bought 2 go green 100 watt citizen cobs and so far im really pleased,each 1 covers a 2ftx3ft area pretty well and im amazed at the penetration of these little cobs getting nice buds at the bottom of 3ft tall plants...i like lots of smaller than 1 large light fixture better coverage imo.. just like 3 400 watt hps can hit better yields than 2 600's in the same area,, 4 100 watt cobs work better than 1 400 watt cob trying to cover a 4x4 table.. just my opinion,,grow well n be well to all

Boatguy said:

I did read the datasheet on the 1212's, and 2.7amps is there maximum operating voltage. I dont know from personal experience.
I am running 10 cree 1507's at around 300ma with two drivers. They are 36v chips.
Originally i was running two parallel strings off a single driver to keep voltage down, now i am using two drivers.
Wiring in parallel isnt a great idea with multiple cobs

Click to expand...

Sorry, I did not want to annoy you or something...
It was only a joke because of your template...
And yeah, I know 1212‘s max. current but usually no one drive them so hard because of effiency. But I see you like to drive your COB's a bit harder(150%). If I remember right, the 1507 is rated for 200mA and it's max. is 375mA, right?
BTW,
I've also used a 8S2P circuit without problems, consisting of 16 CXA2540, V4 bin's on a HLG-185H-C700B to drive each COB with 350mA, 53% eff.. I gave it to a friend because I'm more a builder as a grower but it's been working good for almost a year without any problem.
I think, todays quality COB's are so uniform that you do not have to worry. Except if you have a partial defect COB in a row, this could cause problems, but since the driver in this case is only 700mA max. I'm not worried about thermal runaways and such things even if a string fails.
But this is different with a pure parallel circuit.
Here you should make sure that you do not exceed the current limit, even if several COB's fails. Therefore, I am against a parallel circuit, if the COB's should be operated hard or close to their limits. At least you should use some manual bimetall thermal switch with each COB/heatsink which interrupts the circuit when a certain heat sink temperature is exceeded. And if you take manual thermal switches with reset button, you can easily find the culprit.

TheChemist77 said:

i switched from hps to ceramics a few years ago and fell in love with the 315 watt lec's,,that said i just bought 2 go green 100 watt citizen cobs and so far im really pleased,each 1 covers a 2ftx3ft area pretty well and im amazed at the penetration of these little cobs getting nice buds at the bottom of 3ft tall plants...i like lots of smaller than 1 large light fixture better coverage imo.. just like 3 400 watt hps can hit better yields than 2 600's in the same area,, 4 100 watt cobs work better than 1 400 watt cob trying to cover a 4x4 table.. just my opinion,,grow well n be well to all

Click to expand...

Yepp, the more the better ..!

Randomblame said:

But I see you like to drive your COB's a bit harder(150%)

Click to expand...

Yeah, In flower im running them as hard as i can. My driver is adjustable from 200 to 350ma, ran them 200ma in veg, and dialed it up about halfway since flipping to 12/12. Never measured the exact current.
Im not using led for efficiency, It just suits my space better. Only have 29" top to bottom in my little cab. 1.7cubic feet total.

So I am looking to use these terminal blocks and plan to mount them in a waterproof box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J6ZLIS2/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
There only rated for 15A, 600V, am I going to run into trouble because the driver is rated for 16.7 amps max? Looks like WAGO's are rated for 20A but only 300V. Is that the better option?

Hopefully I can finish up next week and flip to flower!

im not sure the inividual numbered slots are connected together

heres what i mentioned on the phone

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/18/BusBars