MediheaLed
Well-Known Member
My memory is shite, but it was like a 3000k 70 cri won or something. Type in the search. Cri, member : rahz. For accurate info though.
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DesertHydro
Well-Known Member
that was my first SOG trial. i vegged for 2 weeks since i was still building my room and coudnt flower them sooner and the strain was a super stretchy hybrid. this round will get no veg time or only a few days and i will pack them in the table. the goal is a bunch of 1 foot tall colas. these are new strains this round so it will help me learn finish times, stretch, food requirements etc without risking them getting too big or overcrowding like the moms may get. its gonna be fun!
IhateLockDoors
Active Member
That's wonderful, I too am running a sog or going to start real soon, waiting on my superskunk to arrive by mail to start, but I have other clones ready to flower but its going outdoor
MediheaLed
Well-Known Member
The Dawg, also is doin a cri test grow.
IhateLockDoors
Active Member
Could you direct me to that?
MediheaLed
Well-Known Member
Search, cri,the dawg, cant link or quote, phone is old.
IhateLockDoors
Active Member
Thanks
Could you send it to me to? Looking to place an order asap. Thanks!
MediheaLed
Well-Known Member
on my comp now, DH meant you type in: RIU . In the coupon code/discount code in the checkout, before you pay.
IhateLockDoors
Active Member
Out of curiosity, how high is your ppm by the time you get to the last feeding?
Especially say you're doing it that short?
DesertHydro
Well-Known Member
I run the same feed from veg til flush. I run jacks, cal mag, liquid karma, drip clean and mammoth p. Sitting at 1.5 ec with everything
IhateLockDoors
Active Member
Awesome! That was helpful, wish I could like that comment but I don't know how lol
I know
Thank you
Haha
Thanks!
I am definitely going to build my own version of the timber framework 600W COB for my 4'x4' flower set up. A few final things to confirm before ordering:
A. (12) CLU048-1212's 80 CRI 3,000K or (12) 3,500K gen6 80CRI. I hear a lot of good things about the 3,000K and 3,500K. What is the difference with gen6? Good spacing between COB's for layout purposes?
B. Am I better off with (1) Meanwell HLG-600H-36B driver at around 50W or (2) Meanwell HLG-320H-36B drivers at around 53W or (3) of a different Meanwell (model?). Which is best? I don't understand how you set up dimmers for each driver quite yet but I definitely want to be able to dim if its as helpful as it seems.
C. What type of dimmers / potentiometers and where to get them?
D. Any idea where to get heat sinks other than COBKits or does anyone have any idea when they will be restocking?
E. Is 1/8" thick x 1" x 1" aluminum angle iron enough support? Frame will be tack welded together and painted. I believe Timber uses 1-1/4" 1/8".
Thank you in advance!
A. (12) CLU048-1212's 80 CRI 3,000K or (12) 3,500K gen6 80CRI. I hear a lot of good things about the 3,000K and 3,500K. What is the difference with gen6? Good spacing between COB's for layout purposes?
B. Am I better off with (1) Meanwell HLG-600H-36B driver at around 50W or (2) Meanwell HLG-320H-36B drivers at around 53W or (3) of a different Meanwell (model?). Which is best? I don't understand how you set up dimmers for each driver quite yet but I definitely want to be able to dim if its as helpful as it seems.
C. What type of dimmers / potentiometers and where to get them?
D. Any idea where to get heat sinks other than COBKits or does anyone have any idea when they will be restocking?
E. Is 1/8" thick x 1" x 1" aluminum angle iron enough support? Frame will be tack welded together and painted. I believe Timber uses 1-1/4" 1/8".
Thank you in advance!
DesertHydro
Well-Known Member
im just building mine right now. used 1.5" for my 4x4 and 3x3 arrays. i used 1" on my 2x4 and its plenty sturdy. northern grow lights will be stocked again on the 10th or so he said. i cant answer the POT q's as i dont use them, some of them have built in and thats what i have. im building a 4x8 of 1212's at ~1200w(37.5w each) and a 4x8 of cxm 22s at ~1600w(50w each)
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Awesome. What kind of 1212's did you go with? 3,000K or 3,500K and what CRI? Which driver models have built in potentiometers? Thanks!
DesertHydro
Well-Known Member
i believe the "A" models have the built in POT that you have to use a tiny screwdriver on to dim and the "B" models have open leads coming out where you can solder on the POT. i got 3000K 80 CRI on all mine. my veg ones are 6500K and kicking some ass at only 300W
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Awesome. Thanks! Is there any difference between using a large driver vs 2/3 smaller ones?
Mellodrama
Well-Known Member
I've noticed people mentioning one COB per square foot as a rough guideline. But as with everything else, don't consider that a hard & fast rule. If you're gonna run the COBs soft (my preference) you'll want to crowd 'em in a little bit.
A lot of people are bolting their COBs in place. I made mine so they can slide around on the rails, which is very helpful.
The little M3 screws will accept 1/8" X 1" fender washers. I bought a 100-count box at Home Depot.
Look at the flat face of your COBs. See the outer ring of screw holes? Screw four of the M3's, with one fender washer each, into that outer ring on the COBs. Place your rails so that the fender washers overlap the rail edges. This way the washers pinch the rail when you tighten the screws. I started out re-tightening the screws every time I moved a COB around, but soon realized there was no way they could fall off so I left the screws just a little bit loose.
Just one example of how handy this is. I started with four seeds. One never got past seedling stage (although I gave the poor little thing over a month to try) so it was down to three plants. I re-adjusted the COBs for the new reality without unbolting them and taking the risk of dropping anything.
Mellodrama
Well-Known Member
Depends. If you're sure you're gonna run small groups of lights at different intensities, it might make sense to use more drivers.
If that's not the case, then why introduce more wires and plugs? The COB holders (the Ideal ones anyway) aren't rated for more than 250V, so it appears to me that Timber and etc. are putting as many COBs in a string as they can without breaking that limit.
I think the prevailing logic in matching COBs to drivers is based on 1) serial or parallel wiring, 2) the driver's voltage limit and maximum amperage, 3) the COB voltage requirement.
And, yes, the Meanwell "A" models have an internal adjustment, but the "B" drivers offer a wider output range than the "A"'s when you add a pot. I had a hard time wrapping my head around this whole subject, but it's really simple. The pot connects to the two Dimmer wires on the "B" models. Then you plug it in, then you twist the pot. In real life it's easy. But it's all gotta be right - you can solder the wires to the wrong leads on the pot, for instance.