thats great! was really surprised when he threw it on the burner...!here is an afgan making some goodness.
Same - I don't think I'll be that brave (or have that much material - that was a huge cake)!thats great! was really surprised when he threw it on the burner...!
haha! man it looked tasty eh!I half expected him to throw a blanket over himself and hotbox it!
The whole process had me cringing. Really liked the look of the starting material. I would just be storing that in my freezer. But I guess the consolation is that after the nice man has added his own genetic material to the mix and oxidised constituents in the starting material, at least it should have a decent shelf life.haha! man it looked tasty eh!
the plastic seal had me cringing a bit tho lol
pahaha! fair do!The whole process had me cringing. Really liked the look of the starting material. I would just be storing that in my freezer. But I guess the consolation is that after the nice man has added his own genetic material to the mix and oxidised constituents in the starting material, at least it should have a decent shelf life.
Remember watching a Frenchy Cannoli example, much gentler. Whats the compound they discovered that is formed in hashes? Hashishene?
Maybe that's what's missing from modern hash........the nice man has added his own genetic material to the mix and oxidised constituents in the starting material...
This I don't doubt - smoking full melt has a few components to it that other concentrates seem to lack.Remember watching a Frenchy Cannoli example, much gentler. Whats the compound they discovered that is formed in hashes? Hashishene?
I might be mistaken but part of the take away I got from watching Frenchy was that the process of heating and forming balls or masses, improved long term storability. Only the outer rind is exposed and hinders oxidation of the inner content.Maybe that's what's missing from modern hash....
This I don't doubt - smoking full melt has a few components to it that other concentrates seem to lack.
I think I remember reading an article about Frenchy on the Ed Rosenthal blog.
Sad thing is that is a time and place that many, even in those particular countries, might find distant and foreign. I have seen examples of the charas harvesting method, and can only imagine what the yeilds or returns from plant matter must be. One thing for sure, fresh charas must be the equivalent of live resin/ fresh frozen types.When it comes to hash the best is imo is charas (hand rubbed off live plant). After that its hash from sifting, either hand pressed or Frenchy hot water rolling pin style.
This is probably the best book about Hash ever produced
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Wanted to post a few more pics but my camera battery died. Books from '79 and just gives you a whole new respect / inspiration for hash and the cultures that made and used it.
No but this guy probably does ...Do you by any chance have info on original type pipes used in narghile or hubble bubble apparatus? How they were packed, and how heat was delivered?
post me up some lovely afgan pics please.No but this guy probably does ...
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the only mention of narghile in the index and anywhere in the Great Books takes you to a pic of this happy guy
The Book called HASHISH by Robert Connell Clark has a bit more info but sadly not what you seek
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Actually, I ran a bunch of light simulations from dialux and it does create an elipse of intensity with the edges getting way less than the middle of the strips. That’s why progrowtech has extra diodes on the endAnd your light distribution as an ellipse is nonsense too. Each led spreads it's light in a circle. A row of circles does not create an ellipse. You are accounting for reflection losses, but that's not the point
Thank you. As I have repeated in this thread ad nauseam, just because you don't understand how a piece of software works doesn't mean it is any less legitimate. Anyone who knows how to use Dialux will reach the same conclusion.Actually, I ran a bunch of light simulations from dialux and it does create an elipse of intensity with the edges getting way less than the middle of the strips. That’s why progrowtech has extra diodes on the end
BUT ITS AN EASY FIX ANYWAY.
Just put a strip around the outer frame edge. Strips are better in my opinion they are cheap
Yes it is a simple argument. The better you can space your diodes, the more even the canopy. The closer you can put the LEDs to the canopy, the fewer wall losses there are. But the story doesn't end there . . .@Prawn Connery @wietefras its a really simple argument: take some boards over a space in a tent or out in the open. Put equal number of leds/power over the same space in strips and spread them better. Put a par meter under both. You get way better more even coverage with strips. That’s all we are really talking about here right, which setup will give you better more even canopy?
Not necessarily. it depends on the LED layout of the strips and boards. Most strips pack their LEDs very close together in a line along the strip. Some boards space their LEDs quite far apart.Put equal number of leds/power over the same space in strips and spread them better. Put a par meter under both. You get way better more even coverage with strips.
by any chance do u know what i would need to heat sink those fotops lolThank you. As I have repeated in this thread ad nauseam, just because you don't understand how a piece of software works doesn't mean it is any less legitimate. Anyone who knows how to use Dialux will reach the same conclusion.
Yes it is a simple argument. The better you can space your diodes, the more even the canopy. The closer you can put the LEDs to the canopy, the fewer wall losses there are. But the story doesn't end there . . .
You still need a certain amount of light to hit the canopy to be effective, so it's not just about light spread, but intensity also. And if you are not growing in a small space, then wall losses diminish exponentially as you increase your grow area.
Every time you double your room size, you effectively halve the amount of wall surface area (and wall losses, all else being equal).
Eventually you reach a point where wall losses become negligible compared to the total amount of light in the room.
So wall losses are not a major consideration in open-room and warehouse grows. You still need to be able to walk and work around your plants, so in a warehouse grow it is better to have your lights a little higher to allow access, and the overlapping light pattern means you don't lose much light by doing this. That's how bay lighting works.
By the same token, not everyone wants to keep their lights as close to the plants as possible because they don't want to be adjusting them every day.
In these cases, strips actually lead to more wall losses because they are closer to the walls in the first place. And that's why I said at the very beginning of this thread that it is "horses for courses". There is no "one size fits all".
Likewise, it is wrong to state "Led strips offer by far the best spread of light points and therefore the best light diffusion and thus light penetration" because that is not true in all cases.
Not necessarily. it depends on the LED layout of the strips and boards. Most strips pack their LEDs very close together in a line along the strip. Some boards space their LEDs quite far apart.
Here is a Fotop board
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Here is a Samsung F Series strip
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There is no way I am ever going to agree with you that if we place 3x Fotop boards in a 3'x3' or 1m x 1m (for example), that a similar number of Samsung strip LEDs is going to provide better coverage.
Why?
Because the Fotop boards (900mm x 280mm) will cover the entire roof of that tent and the LEDs will be evenly spaced at about 15mm between each and every diode, whilst the F Series strips will be in lines of tightly-packed LEDs that are only a few mm apart.
You have used Dialux, and so you know what I'm talking about.
Now look at it from a price perspective, and maybe things change . . . Or do they?
3x Fotop boards at US$80 have 2400 LEDs for $240
17x 560mm Samsung F Series strips are anywhere up to US$350+
Space them out over a 1m x 1m and I don't need Dialux to know which of the above configurations produces the more even spread with the fewest wall losses.
And let's not even talk about the amount of wiring required for those 17 strips vs 3x Fotop boards!
This is just one example – I could provide many more – of where "horses for courses" applies. No-one can sit behind their keyboard and categorically state that "strips are better" or "boards are better" because it depends on circumstance.
And that is my point.
Nothing, if you run tthem less tthan 200wby any chance do u know what i would need to heat sink those fotops lol
so just frame it and make a wall of diodes is def ok with me lolNothing, if you run tthem less tthan 200w