Ants….. nothing working!

Susanne

Well-Known Member
I posted recently about ants killing my plants.

Well, I tried
Cinnamon
corn meal (actually did the best)
Diatomaceous earth

I started with 33 plants. four are completely dead. Another 2-3 have the buds now dying. And the rest are ready for the trash heap.

This is my 8th year growing. dealt with a lot over the years.

This is doing me in. It’s been over 101 degrees every day (until today….99 ) And lows only around 80. The plants had heat stress... Nothing I could do with that but watch.

then, when the leaves started turning very brown, I posted photos & potassium was suggested. did not see any ants….but, they were there.

NO Aphids Found.


ANY help is appreciated. I saw molasses suggested. Any thoughts? I’ve combed through the threads on the search for ants, & I’m out of things I know may work before they’re ALL dead.

Thanks!
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Ants in your plants ?

Some ant activity can be beneficial at times since they help control other pesky insects , eggs , etc.
‘They also help oxygenate the soil with burrowing. They eat aphids and other types of insects since they are always scavenging for a meal.
However , if ant population is extreme - you have some options .

Terro as stated above or similar boric acid / sugar solution.
Vinegar spray to top soil ( deterrent )
Cedarcide ( ground cedar 100% ) - adding a thin top layer to container is a natural way to deal with not only ants but even mites !
Spinosad spray ( Capt. Jacks ) is a great RTU garden friendly spray for a host of common garden pests.

I would look for less heavy duty chemical methods like particular lawn granules or bifethrin loaded chemicals as many are for ornamental plant use only.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
I posted recently about ants killing my plants.

Well, I tried
Cinnamon
corn meal (actually did the best)
Diatomaceous earth

I started with 33 plants. four are completely dead. Another 2-3 have the buds now dying. And the rest are ready for the trash heap.

This is my 8th year growing. dealt with a lot over the years.

This is doing me in. It’s been over 101 degrees every day (until today….99 ) And lows only around 80. The plants had heat stress... Nothing I could do with that but watch.

then, when the leaves started turning very brown, I posted photos & potassium was suggested. did not see any ants….but, they were there.

NO Aphids Found.


ANY help is appreciated. I saw molasses suggested. Any thoughts? I’ve combed through the threads on the search for ants, & I’m out of things I know may work before they’re ALL dead.

Thanks!
to help we would need a real idea of the media/soil grown in and how you are feeding them
pics help alot!
I don't know if I'd advise molasses if ants were a real problem
maybe some pics of the ants in question would help, corn meal seems like it would feed the ants, but I also know it is good for feeding worms as well..

It is great to make journals so people can see your whole process instead of helping you with limited info
 

Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
Ants in your plants ?

Some ant activity can be beneficial at times since they help control other pesky insects , eggs , etc.
‘They also help oxygenate the soil with burrowing. They eat aphids and other types of insects since they are always scavenging for a meal.
However , if ant population is extreme - you have some options .

Terro as stated above or similar boric acid / sugar solution.
Vinegar spray to top soil ( deterrent )
Cedarcide ( ground cedar 100% ) - adding a thin top layer to container is a natural way to deal with not only ants but even mites !
Spinosad spray ( Capt. Jacks ) is a great RTU garden friendly spray for a host of common garden pests.

I would look for less heavy duty chemical methods like particular lawn granules or bifethrin loaded chemicals as many are for ornamental plant use only.
Ants don’t eat aphids, they will often protect them from predators. The aphids supply food to the ants in the form of “honeydew” that the aphids excrete, in return the ants protect them. That’s the strange thing, ants don’t normally swarm a plant unless something is attracting them
 
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Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Ants don’t eat aphids, they will often protect them from predators. The aphids supply food to the ants in the form of “honeydew” that the aphids excrete, in return the ants protect them. That’s the strange thing, ants don’t normally swarm a plant unless something is attracting them
You are correct - i am high officer
 

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
Talstar P.

Befrenthrin.

Both originally designed for ants, but kill a lot of other nasties. Food safe, and used in kitchens. I wouldn't spray my plants, but around them as an area preventative, hell yeah.
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
How to Get Rid of Ants on Weed Plants: Natural Solutions
Ant colonies are robust, but there’s only so much they can take until they decide to move to a more hospitable environment. Below, we’ll outline purely natural, organic ways to remove ants from a weed garden.

How to remove ants from yout marijuana crop

Cinnamon Powder or Ground Coffee
Ants are not fond of cinnamon nor ground coffee. Therefore, these household ingredients are one of the best ways to get rid of ants.

At first, if you see that the ants are just beginning to burrow into the soil, simply dump a spoonful of ground cinnamon or coffee wherever you see a large concentration. In many cases, the pungent aromas of these substances will be enough to deter them.
If this fails, all is not lost! Mix either ground coffee or cinnamon with water (you can use the same amount you’d normally water your plants with), then just evenly water the soil. As the cinnamon or coffee runs down into the soil, it should cause the ants to disperse.

Neem Oil
Neem oil is a precious ally of the organic cannabis grower. This essential oil comes from the neem tree and contains powerful insecticide compounds. It has been used in horticulture, and also in ethnomedicine, for centuries. It can be sprayed directly on plants as an immediate pesticide, or even every week or so as a preventative measure. Neem oil doesn’t harm beneficial animals like ladybugs, bees, and earthworms, and it can also be added to irrigated water to prevent root rot.

A good pesticide mix can be prepared with 1 teaspoon of neem oil and just 5 drops of surfactant per litre of water. A surfactant, such as dish soap, is useful because neem oil does not mix well with water. Using warm water makes the mixing process even easier. Just allow the mix to cool off before applying it on your plants. A sprayer with the finest possible setting will be necessary to mist the tops and bottoms of all the leaves.

Neem oil may not be the best solution if you have ants nesting in the soil, but it is perfect if you notice a colony of ants farming a colony of some other insect directly on your plants. The neem oil will deal with both at once.

How to get rid of ants on weed plants

Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth is a natural and safe pest control method that doesn’t harm plants or growers by releasing toxic chemicals. Instead, diatomaceous earth, also known as diatomite, is a siliceous rock originating from fossilised remains of small beings with a hard shell. It can be easily crumbled into a powder, and has many industrial applications. Diatomite is a beautiful mechanical insecticide, and this is what interests cannabis growers.

The abrasive nature of this “shell powder” scrapes away insects’ exoskeleton as they pass by, while its high porosity absorbs any critters’ vital fluids. Not exactly the environment ants will try to colonise, and not something a parasite can develop a resistance to, as opposed to chemicals. Plus, diatomite improves soil’s moisture retention, holding water, drying slowly, and increasing the oxygenation of the substrate.

Some caution is needed when handling diatomaceous earth because it can irritate the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract.

Beneficial Insects
There are certain insects that eat ants, including wasps, beneficial nematodes, spiders, and (surprisingly) certain species of butterfly. However, ants live in huge numbers, and inviting in beneficial insects won’t be enough to destroy a colony. What’s more, ants actually protect their livestock from other predatory insects.

That being said, having a rich garden that hosts these insects may make it more difficult for ants to set up shop in the first place.

Or, you could invest in a pet anteater?
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
with ants, its best to use multiple types of poison, as they suss what your useing out very quickly. so chop n change your poisons
the message that a new poison has entered the food chain is very quick, experimenters chose to die each poison with a differant colour, had a camera in the ants dumping station. each time a new colour was introduced, they waited for it to be dumped and a new poison was chosen.
i wish i could remember the best one to use.
but as has been mentioned, ants dont harm plants, its the bugs they farm that do that
 
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green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Pictures. Close up of ants interacting with plants.
where are you from? maybe different species of any that isn’t common?

Also picture of the whole plants affected.

maybe you have like termites and not ants?

Just for the record ants and ladybugs always help me find aphid pressure. Look at the base of the stalk and in mulch area around stems. Look under the healthy leaves.

I know you said “it’s not aphid” almost defensively in your first post here but I’dtripple
Check.

also, take away the food source, which is likely aphid honeydoo…. I’d be surprised if the ants are actually consuming yourweed plants. But I’ve been wrong before so let’s figure it out!
 
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