...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?


  • Total voters
    357

bicit

Well-Known Member
So, ppfd calculations will get us the total photons in a space. Can't a foot candle or lux meter be used to just check relative intensity across that space?
Yes a very basic lux meter would be good to compare relative intensities over a canopy. Say for instance measuring the intensity of a lamp at a given distance or with a different set of optics. It would NOT be a good way to compare the intensities of different CCT lights sources. For example, 2700k vs 5000k. That's where a quality spectroradiometer comes into play.
 
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Humanrob

Well-Known Member
I have an Optic (Vero 18 ) 120 light. I've read a few posts from people who were concerned that the magnifying lens that it comes with sits too close to allow ample airflow, and could create an issue with too much heat buildup. I've also seen comparisons of the light output with and without the lens, and the lens appears to offer a substantial amount of improvement.

Is the the consensus that in this application the lens presents a problem (or a highly likely potential for a problem)?

If so, can anyone recommend a reflector that could surface mount and be used instead of the lens on an Optic 120 running Vero18's?
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
Optic carries fixtures with Vero 18's now? ... :lol:
They originally used vero 18's in their lower power units. I think they phased them out when they added the CXB options.

Is the the consensus that in this application the lens presents a problem (or a highly likely potential for a problem)?
No, the lens should pose no issue what so ever in your situation. I wouldn't replace it with anything unless you've got a really strong itch to customize it.
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
They originally used vero 18's in their lower power units. I think they phased them out when they added the CXB options.

No, the lens should pose no issue what so ever in your situation. I wouldn't replace it with anything unless you've got a really strong itch to customize it.
Thanks for that. I'm not looking for a project, I'd just like the light to last as long as possible so I thought I'd look into this. As a side note, it's working really well -- the plant I have under it is very happy.
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. I'm not looking for a project, I'd just like the light to last as long as possible so I thought I'd look into this. As a side note, it's working really well -- the plant I have under it is very happy.
As is the light should outlast your need for it. Honestly, the drivers and fans are the weak points in that system. You'll probably have to replace those several times before you have to worry about your emitters.
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
As is the light should outlast your need for it. Honestly, the drivers and fans are the weak points in that system. You'll probably have to replace those several times before you have to worry about your emitters.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye out for failures. Sounds like you are not a fan of Optic Lighting?
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye out for failures. Sounds like you are not a fan of Optic Lighting?
It's not that at all, I have no issues with optic lighting or their products. As a general rule, fans and drivers are the weak points in any led panel, their rated life span is considerably lower than the emitters thus will fail eventually(most likely many many years down the road). The rest of the 'stuff' that composes a typical light (heatsink, wire, housing, ect) don't wear out under typical conditions.
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
It's not that at all, I have no issues with optic lighting or their products. As a general rule, fans and drivers are the weak points in any led panel, their rated life span is considerably lower than the emitters thus will fail eventually(most likely many many years down the road). The rest of the 'stuff' that composes a typical light (heatsink, wire, housing, ect) don't wear out under typical conditions.
Thanks for clarifying. I like everything about COBs; efficiency, size, durability, running cool... well, everything except it would of course be nice if they cost a lot less than they do. Lucky for me I'm still working in small spaces.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
>>>>Side note: When taking readings outside center, doesn't it make sense to angle the meter towards the emitter? That's what leaves do.

A little bit more pondering on this. When holding a meter element facing up directly under the light source the size of the light path is greatest. When held facing up at a point on an angle from the source the size of the light path touching the sensor is reduced. I don't have a sensor yet to test this out, so I'm curious to know how much difference it makes or if I'm totally off base.

Those measurements beside the Lambertian curve in the COB datasheet might reveal the accuracy of the better readings. I loosely based my first two multi emitter lamps off the datasheet and desired height above canopy, spacing them in hexagonals touching at the 50% mark. If my theory is relevant, in theory a sensor pointing up between 2 emitters at 45% angles might read 50% since the direct reading for each one would be 50% and the indirect reading would be 25% each.

Smokey thoughts.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
It really depends. I'm under the impression that some reflectors don't require a cob holder, that they rather screw in with the screws that hold down the COB. There's a whole bunch of optics out there, all a little different fro the next.
 

rosswaa

Well-Known Member
A pair of arctic 11 pros just turned up in eBay for £15 so I snapped them up, are they easy to drill and tap? Anyone know what size to tap? Or is it just whatever fits? Lol
 

Meinolf

Well-Known Member
A pair of arctic 11 pros just turned up in eBay for £15 so I snapped them up, are they easy to drill and tap? Anyone know what size to tap? Or is it just whatever fits? Lol
For drilling, a drill stand really helps, for it ensures perpendicularity and you can adjust max depth to not hit the fins. For the Veros, I drilled with M2.5 -To my suprise, this may take some time on 600RPM, I thought the material was softer. I'd then tap in three steps towards M3 (with quality taps!) while holding the heatsink in one hand, the "cordless screwdriver" (what a term) in the other. Tap in, set on reverse and screw out. For aluminium, you should use alcohol as a lube. I was kind of afraid of this process, because here is where you would ruin your material. After one or two heatsinks, you really get into the routine. Good luck!
 

rosswaa

Well-Known Member
IV got a practise heatsink to test out first so will try in that. Only got a hand drill so will see how straight I can get it. Depth is simple. Piece of tape lol
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I experimented with some stainless screws and it worked great without tapping. KISS method

>>>>Side note: When taking readings outside center, doesn't it make sense to angle the meter towards the emitter?.
You are correct, with my meter it makes a huge difference if you are measuring light from a single COB or measuring light on the edge of the canopy. It does make sense to point the sensor directly at the light source IMO although I am not if that is standard practice when making PAR maps..
 
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