Al B. FAQt

Thanks for that, iloveit.

Hey there Al just dropping in to say wud up!
Im trying again with the Blueberry grow this time with the magic "H2O2" germinated it yesterday and placed in RW Ill be very cautious with the watering & misting in the prop.
Oh & I thought Id let you know there is a new member to this forum his name is "Heath Robinson" hes a great humble & helpful grower who was currently a member of erm I dont know if Im allowed to state this site...its called GH420 but the first 2 characters the other way round (the site seems like its been shut down). Im just mentioning this because you 2 are the best growers I know, maybe you 2 can bounce ideas off each other.

Hey Al, I just wanted to revisit the cloning cut placement part.

So what I should do is cut a clone from the mainstem in order to make the plant bush out and thicken up?

Will these be the right cuts to do so?

Images are clickable again for bigger pics.




1-Cut off top area of mainstem
2-Cut off lower side shoots?
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Also, as far as cloning on the branches, would cutting at "3" force shoot growth at 1&2? I see little tiny things at the node but they haven't been growing.

http://s526.photobucket.com/albums/cc341/returnofthespork/Rollitup/?action=view¤t=Temp001.jpg

Hey thanks for the advice Al again, and no probs bout missing it you help so many people here its only natural, especially for us stoners lol, and yes i did mean the lowermost leaves and i have cut them off, im gonna update my jounal with some pics tomorrow if u fancy looking...

Thanks Fitzy and iloveit for the links for h202 i will be looking into that very soon.....

Anyways keep up the brilliant work Al and be lucky

iloveit said:

Im trying again with the Blueberry grow this time with the magic "H2O2" germinated it yesterday and placed in RW Ill be very cautious with the watering & misting in the prop.

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coolio.

Oh & I thought Id let you know there is a new member to this forum his name is "Heath Robinson"

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Will keep an eye out for him.

Return of the Spork said:

Will these be the right cuts to do so?

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yeffir, now you've got it.

Also, as far as cloning on the branches, would cutting at "3" force shoot growth at 1&2? I see little tiny things at the node but they haven't been growing.

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Yes, those nodes eventually will form branches, but cutting it as you depict will force them to get a move on.

WHAT DO YOU MAKE OF THESE SPOTS AL
all i did was put fresh ph'd water in there..i thought my prada sneakers would be the "good" ending of the dayafter shopping only to come home and see beige spots on my plant!!...wtf!!

Al B. Fuct said:

Completely off topic: When I drop $1000 on a new pair of spex, I expect they'll be assembled correctly and I'll pick them up without waiting or dicking around. No quibbling. That's not what has happened today. I got every excuse in the book for why the machine which is supposed to cut & polish lenses did a bad job. So, I'm trying to post on RIU wearing my driving glasses and it ain't working so well.

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Hey man, I used to service the edgers (longest 6 months of my life! SO happy to be back to lasers and *real* optics.). They don't polish/grind the prescription in, thats done at the lens factory. in an injection mold. The Optician only grinds the edge down to fit the glasses.

Now if they are progressive lenses (line-less bifocals) they need to be measured correctly and fitted correctly,other wise they will be junk. Johnson & Johnson had the best progressives out a couple years back.

The edgers really don't screw up that bad. If the lens wasn't blocked correctly, crap glasses.

Be picky and inspect everything. A pair of standard single vision lenses are only about $5. Frames $4-30. Even look at how even the bevel around the lens is.

(Now progressive and auto tinting lenses are a LOT LOT more)

hey al sorry \bout the unclarity of my questions

rainforest setup is an aeroponic system that is by general hydroponics company ....they do ok i guess nothin to spend 300 dollars on tho lol

i use metal halide conversion for vegetative type growth and i thoughts since they are still actively growin in first 3 weeks or so of bloom that they might benefit from blue spectrum that a MH gives

when i wrote because the bay is still growing leaves in it i meant the 4x4 tray in pic with MH bulb i mean that they are still activly kinda vegging for the first 3 weeks and i heard that MH is better to Vegetate plants than a HPS
when i say still growing leaves i meant that first couple of weeks that plants actively grow taller and aquire more leaves in bloom ....instead of like week 3 or 4 when they start to set flower

oh i am sorry bout the EC numbers i read somewhere that you liked the metric system or somethin and i was tryin to oblige you

so what i mean was that my first 4x4 tray has a PPm of 700-800
and second bay has PPm of like 1000 ....also these are general hydroponic nutes (3 Part grow,micro,bloom) and i also add about 200 PPm of Koolbloom from general hydroponics .....so i actually have like 500-600 PPm of 3 part and then additional 200 PPm of the kool bloom in tray 1


so tray 1 = 500-600 ppm of 3 part + 200 ppm of koolbloom
and tray 2= 800 ppm of 3 part + 200 ppm of koolbloom

ty and sorry for the sloppy posting i am very new to the whole posting and internet stuff hehe


thanks al you the bomb


Ps. this is a pic of the rainforest system

BigBudBalls said:

The Optician only grinds the edge down to fit the glasses.

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Yeah, that's what I''m talking about, the cut of the blank and the roll/polish of the edge. I'm a -4.75 to -5 so my lenses are thick. With a rough cut edge and no roll & polish, not only does it look bad, but high-index polycarbonate will chip easily unless an edge break is put on it.

Now if they are progressive lenses (line-less bifocals) they need to be measured correctly and fitted correctly,other wise they will be junk. Johnson & Johnson had the best progressives out a couple years back.

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Can't use those with the frame style I like- lens isn't big enough. I chose separate pairs of glasses for reading (manicuring, really ) & driving and I'm glad I did- the script can be optimised for the application with no intermediary stages.

The edgers really don't screw up that bad. If the lens wasn't blocked correctly, crap glasses.

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A bad workman blames the tools. That's what happened here.

Be picky and inspect everything. A pair of standard single vision lenses are only about $5. Frames $4-30. Even look at how even the bevel around the lens is.

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Oh yeah, I do- and they're not happy with me for doing so, either. I don't think it's too muckin' futch to ask to have the job done competently. Their polish wheel only did half the edge of the lens. Either the lens wasn't set in the machine properly or the machine is screwed up, but they never should have called me and said they were ready if they weren't. The person assembling the spex either didn't know what a good roll & polish looked like or didn't even check after taking the lens off the machine.

doktorgreenthumb420 said:

i use metal halide conversion for vegetative type growth and i thoughts since they are still actively growin in first 3 weeks or so of bloom that they might benefit from blue spectrum that a MH gives

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OK, I can see why you did that, but you're looking to shift the plant into flowering even though some veg growth does occur in wk1-4 of flowering. Providing the blue-biased spectrum isn't helping the cause of forcing flowering.

oh i am sorry bout the EC numbers i read somewhere that you liked the metric system or somethin and i was tryin to oblige you

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I do like metrics but most EC meters display in ppm instead of uS/cm.

so what i mean was that my first 4x4 tray has a PPm of 700-800
and second bay has PPm of like 1000 ....also these are general hydroponic nutes (3 Part grow,micro,bloom) and i also add about 200 PPm of Koolbloom from general hydroponics .....so i actually have like 500-600 PPm of 3 part and then additional 200 PPm of the kool bloom in tray 1

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KoolBloom is a P & K additive and should be used for 1 week only, in wk 5 of flowering.

hey al, i love your thread. i'm a newb and read through here whenever i have time to do research. i have a 3' x 3' flood table with a 1000w convertible ballast. i am about 4 weeks into vegging and have realized i need to control odor. i am looking to get a tent so i can conceal the setup as well. i'm looking for suggestions on filters and fan set ups. any suggestions as far as size, brand, etc would be helpful. i am looking at 4' x 4' x 6.5' tent. thanks

Thanks for the thanks, bert.

You might look at the Odorsok line of carbon filters.



They are available in several lengths and diameters, some are especially well suited to smaller grows and limited space applications. Carbon filters should be driven with a centrif blower.

I use UV fluoro ozone generators from Uvonair for odor control.



They work generally well but sometimes don't keep up with the airflow generated by my 600CFM exhaust blower, esp when tray #4 is in wk 8 of flowering. Every once in a while I can detect a tiny scent where I shouldn't. If my nearest neighbour wasn't 1km away, I'd get a carbon filter.

i guess u missed my quick question on page 175,sorry if im annoying you with noob questions

paperfetti said:

i guess u missed my quick question on page 175,sorry if im annoying you with noob questions

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I did miss it, sorry.

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/hydroponics-aeroponics/222136d1224544372-al-b-faqt-sspx0068.jpg

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Looks like heat damage. You're looking for 24-26C (75.2-78.8F). You have a peak-memory recording thermometer, don't you? What has the temp range been at plant level? What kind of light is over this plant and how close is it to the leaves?

Clones again...


I put them in 6 hours of dark and have it setup per your instructions. No real sign of leaf wilt, but some of the stems are all bending over from being top heavy. Not all of them are, but the thicker stem ones are just as affected as their less thick brothers. Will this correct itself in a couple days or should I stake them with support?

I just read a DIY carbon filter thread and I think I'm gonna give that a go. I do, however, still need to buy a fan. I am looking at a 273 cfm Dayton Blower on ebay for $100. Is this an appropriate size, and do you think this is a good fan? Also, should I use the same type of fan to bring air into the tent? Thanks again...

Return of the Spork said:

Will this correct itself in a couple days or should I stake them with support?

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If the stem cut is sterile and the medium is appropriately damp and not wet, they will all straighten up in a day or so. Stake them if you like, but they shouldn't really need it.

bertison99 said:

I am looking at a 273 cfm Dayton Blower on ebay for $100. Is this an appropriate size, and do you think this is a good fan? Also, should I use the same type of fan to bring air into the tent?

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Is that Dayton blower a centrifugal? You'll need a centrif if you are using a carbon filter. Axial blowers can't develop the pressure needed to overcome the obstruction of the filter. They will not come anywhere near their CFM rating if pushing into a high static pressure.

The size of the exhaust blower depends on the size of the room. If you are not using cooltubes, plan on 1CFM per cubic foot of room volume. If you are using cooltubes, the exhaust can be smaller, big enough to move the room volume in 2-3 mins.

The intake blower can be an axial, rated about 80-90% of the capacity of the exhaust. The slightly lower capacity of the intake blower will keep the room at negative pressure, so that any air leaks in the room construction leak inward. This keeps all air leaving your op going through the exhaust blower and thus your carbon filter, controlling scents better.

Hey Al,

I started a grow 7 days ago and have a picture of my plants at this stage. Everything looks good other than the center plant does not want to face upwards towards the lights for some reason. The smallest plant on the left already has a taproot out the bottom of the cube.

I have been feeding them tap water PH'd to 5.8 and keeping the cubes between 24-30 grams when wet and only watering when they are down to about 15 grams.

When do you recommend I start feeding them nutrients and when do you think I should lower the lighting for them? The lights are 3 42W(150) CFL's at about 7-8" currently.

I plan on putting them under a 250W MH light in a flood and drain setup probably in about a week.

I will be using the canna brand veging nutes for these plants which will be my mothers until enough cuttings to replace them in a perpetual grow like yours.



Thanks in advance.

Great...thanks for the advice. I will be getting things set up asap. I just ordered the tent and I'm looking online for a centrifugal fan. Should be able to get it all going in four or five days.