A Tale of 2 LED Tents Using DIY Mini-Me F & D
- Thread starter PetFlora
- Start date
Pass it Around
Well-Known Member
Top feeding is the way to go bro, you know what I am sayin.
So are you going to be using synthetic or natural oil for this biz.
So are you going to be using synthetic or natural oil for this biz.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
I think a flood tray that floods ~ half way up the net pot is comparable to top feed (hence a 4g tote per plant), but since bilge pumps are expensive and, I already have a 160 gph pump, top feed makes sense, though I could have just hung the fill tub over the tote lip
Today I added a 4 liter AP under the net pot lid just to get the roots out of the ~ 1/2" of nutes that are not draining out; a result of putting the bulkhead on the side as opposed to the bottom of the tote. I may do just that on the actual grow- this one being a test run on a reveg
Synthetic or natural oil? Do you mean nutes?
I have been happily using using Hydroponic Research Veg+ Bloom (one step complete formula) for several years now
Today I added a 4 liter AP under the net pot lid just to get the roots out of the ~ 1/2" of nutes that are not draining out; a result of putting the bulkhead on the side as opposed to the bottom of the tote. I may do just that on the actual grow- this one being a test run on a reveg
Synthetic or natural oil? Do you mean nutes?
I have been happily using using Hydroponic Research Veg+ Bloom (one step complete formula) for several years now
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Due to my installing the bulkhead drain on the side, abut a half inch of standing water remains after each 'flood', so roots are soaking in some nutes 24/7
To compensate, I plopped the net pot lid on top of a 4 liter Air Pot, effectively raising the roots above the standing water- for now. Eventually they will grow down, but can be trimmed
The AP is also wider than the netpot providing better stability once the plant fills out
This one won't as I will be using it for clones
To compensate, I plopped the net pot lid on top of a 4 liter Air Pot, effectively raising the roots above the standing water- for now. Eventually they will grow down, but can be trimmed
The AP is also wider than the netpot providing better stability once the plant fills out
This one won't as I will be using it for clones
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Round 2 officially begins based on Planting by the moon http://www.the-gardeners-calendar.co.uk ... anting.asp
Tossed 9 Med-Man Bx1+ Silver Skunk seeds into a diluted mineral water this morning (homemade mix of Mg + Him Salt sol)
Jar is then placed in a dark cabinet
I gave the + designation as these are Big Mex male pollen used to pollinate the Blue Berry Cheesecake female that I have been revegging
Hoping for 2 Big Mex females, one for each new tent
Tossed 9 Med-Man Bx1+ Silver Skunk seeds into a diluted mineral water this morning (homemade mix of Mg + Him Salt sol)
Jar is then placed in a dark cabinet
I gave the + designation as these are Big Mex male pollen used to pollinate the Blue Berry Cheesecake female that I have been revegging
Hoping for 2 Big Mex females, one for each new tent
shnkrmn
Well-Known Member
Subbed. You are going to hate that standing water in your tray over time. Also, why top feed? tubing and drip rings and clogs and your medium wet on top. On the other hand, your chosen medium really doesn't retain any water, does it? And you don't need expensive pumps to flood a tray. I use 160gph pumps, no problem.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
I'm seeing some algae, but I will be moving this plant out fairly soon, otherwise I would cover the open areas with tin foil
The rock drains quickly, only moisture left is between the stones
I flood every ~ 60 minutes and the plant is growing like crazy
I put the HH ring on yesterday to better distribute nutes around the roots
I can drill bigger holes which should minimize clogging
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
I will also post this in my Red/Blue: Humble Beginnings thread, but not everyone is following it, so...
There is much confusion regarding light efficiency. I know I mentally labored over the spectrums I chose for the S 600, thinking I might be overdoing the blue spectrums, but it flowered quite well
Below is paraphrased from conversations with the owner/designer of Solar Spec LED panels.
I should have a 100 and a 260 within 2 weeks
The McCree curve tells us everything u need to know about the PAR spectrum.
Plants are very efficient at what they do to conserve energy for their main priority, which is to flower, fruit, or producing seeds.
(Me) While I agree, the 3000K only COB diys are vegging nicely, with minimal stretch
If you're talking about just growth then yes, because u only need ~8-10% blues. The thing is blue also acts similar to uv-b in stimulating resin production. Blue will also boost photosynthesis since it sets the pace for the reds to follow. Why not set a fast pace?
Yeah, they might be vegging ok, but they also don't have anything to compare to for those grows, right? Are any of them comparing it to another spectrum say like mine, which is a more balanced, and tune spectrum vs. a single band spectrum.
I can guarantee, a multi-band spectrum with more blues and green will out veg and flower it (3000K) all day long. You have to remember vegging is very important since it establishes the platform on which flowering will take place. At high intensive apps like ours, green is (as much) a priority as reds and blues.
Red is used mostly by the upper canopy, while the intra-canopy relies on the blue and green since they penetrate the canopy better than other bands. The light spectrum the intra-canopy receives is totally different, and closely resembles to what underwater plants get due to the weaker bands being filtered by the canopy and water. The reflected and diffused light contains mostly blue and green, since the other weaker bands are filtered by the canopy.
Because of this, plants have learned how to effectively use blue and green light in shaded region of the plant. This is a fact that's completely overlooked by most of the makes, with exception of a few, mostly the white ones.
There is much confusion regarding light efficiency. I know I mentally labored over the spectrums I chose for the S 600, thinking I might be overdoing the blue spectrums, but it flowered quite well
Below is paraphrased from conversations with the owner/designer of Solar Spec LED panels.
I should have a 100 and a 260 within 2 weeks
The McCree curve tells us everything u need to know about the PAR spectrum.
Plants are very efficient at what they do to conserve energy for their main priority, which is to flower, fruit, or producing seeds.
(Me) While I agree, the 3000K only COB diys are vegging nicely, with minimal stretch
If you're talking about just growth then yes, because u only need ~8-10% blues. The thing is blue also acts similar to uv-b in stimulating resin production. Blue will also boost photosynthesis since it sets the pace for the reds to follow. Why not set a fast pace?
Yeah, they might be vegging ok, but they also don't have anything to compare to for those grows, right? Are any of them comparing it to another spectrum say like mine, which is a more balanced, and tune spectrum vs. a single band spectrum.
I can guarantee, a multi-band spectrum with more blues and green will out veg and flower it (3000K) all day long. You have to remember vegging is very important since it establishes the platform on which flowering will take place. At high intensive apps like ours, green is (as much) a priority as reds and blues.
Red is used mostly by the upper canopy, while the intra-canopy relies on the blue and green since they penetrate the canopy better than other bands. The light spectrum the intra-canopy receives is totally different, and closely resembles to what underwater plants get due to the weaker bands being filtered by the canopy and water. The reflected and diffused light contains mostly blue and green, since the other weaker bands are filtered by the canopy.
Because of this, plants have learned how to effectively use blue and green light in shaded region of the plant. This is a fact that's completely overlooked by most of the makes, with exception of a few, mostly the white ones.
cityworker415
Well-Known Member
Is this not the reason for canopy management.
Sent from my XT1060 using Rollitup mobile app
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Why cheap chinese panels fail
LED luminaires offer even more advancement in lower power consumption and expected life. However, if attention is not paid to the drivers and power supplies used to power LEDs, this new technology will also lower the life and reliability expectations.
http://www.electronicproducts.com/Power_Products/AC_DC_Power_Supplies/LED_lighting_reliability_More_than_just_the_LEDs.aspx
LED luminaires offer even more advancement in lower power consumption and expected life. However, if attention is not paid to the drivers and power supplies used to power LEDs, this new technology will also lower the life and reliability expectations.
http://www.electronicproducts.com/Power_Products/AC_DC_Power_Supplies/LED_lighting_reliability_More_than_just_the_LEDs.aspx
GroErr
Well-Known Member
Hey PetFLora, hope all's well. That re-veg is going well, tried one a while back but gave up on it after a couple of weeks of nothing. Don't usually have the lights/space available to try it. Yours is looking great though
Decided to throw in some beans myself over the last couple of weeks, some to grow (3 largest are my crosses), some to breed. Threw in a total of 12 and 11 are now popped and growing.
Pics: 4x Harlequin BX4, 2x Bubba Ripper (mine), 1x Bubba's Ace (mine), 2x THC Bomb, 1x Blue Pyramid, 1x Super Skunk
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GroErr
Well-Known Member
lol, no time for that through the summer, but things are slowing down, as soon as the cool weather starts up I'll get to building those. Those Chinese LG panels are fine for seeds and the one's in my veg cabinet did a fine job on the babies I just threw into the flower roomWTH? Not even using your own 3000K COB?
I do want those COB panels in the flower room though, seeing some great results in here with those 3070 COB's...