IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
yeah you might want to scale down your op to a single 600w...lol.. because all that stuff already on the circuit will give you problems.
A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions
- Thread starter IAm5toned
- Start date
Sadista
Member
I was afraid you were gonna say that...
before I decide thats its impossible to run a 2 x 1000w flower room would it perhaps be better to run the 2 lights at night from say 10pm - 10am when power consumption is lower, and have the fans on low during the day and crank them up at night also?
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
you could definitly try it..... i would say you might even be able to pull a single 1000w with it on.. maybe.I was afraid you were gonna say that...
before I decide thats its impossible to run a 2 x 1000w flower room would it perhaps be better to run the 2 lights at night from say 10pm - 10am when power consumption is lower, and have the fans on low during the day and crank them up at night also?
watercooled@
Active Member
Hey 5toned, hope all is well. I've put up a new thread in the design section showing a potential vertical grow I'll be building. Your opinion is valued, so check it out. I plan on running lifelines from a breaker box which will allow the owner to hook the trailer, unplug the lifeline and move if he needs to... 
this one should be fun! I was thinking of running an extra ground rod and attaching it to the trailer just in case, but that would be something else to unhook if the trailer needs to be moved. We'll see.
this one should be fun! I was thinking of running an extra ground rod and attaching it to the trailer just in case, but that would be something else to unhook if the trailer needs to be moved. We'll see.I hope you can give me a good suggestion Stoned. I'm trying to exhaust a very small box.
OK so I purchased two of these tiny squirrel cage case fans and wired them to the black universal AC adapter (3-12v 1300ma) and since they both say 2.1a on the label I was not surprised when they came on but were not very fast at all.
I then spent way to much money on the white universal AC adapter (6-12v 2.5a) hoping that uping the amperage 2 times would gimme some positive results but received the same speed/RPMs. Luckily I was able to use the adapter without cutting it and returned it later.
I know you can't see the fans in action but I I don't think they're working up to their there rated speed of 3500 RPMs and they are definitely not 50~ dba loud like they say.
Is there a way to utilize the white cord as a speed control or can I even go with maybe a larger 12v 5a adapter for a laptop or would that draw way to much?? or am I not on the right track at all??
Thanks in advance your thread has been a plethora of information to me already.
OK so I purchased two of these tiny squirrel cage case fans and wired them to the black universal AC adapter (3-12v 1300ma) and since they both say 2.1a on the label I was not surprised when they came on but were not very fast at all.
I then spent way to much money on the white universal AC adapter (6-12v 2.5a) hoping that uping the amperage 2 times would gimme some positive results but received the same speed/RPMs. Luckily I was able to use the adapter without cutting it and returned it later.
I know you can't see the fans in action but I I don't think they're working up to their there rated speed of 3500 RPMs and they are definitely not 50~ dba loud like they say.
Is there a way to utilize the white cord as a speed control or can I even go with maybe a larger 12v 5a adapter for a laptop or would that draw way to much?? or am I not on the right track at all??
Thanks in advance your thread has been a plethora of information to me already.Attachments
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
beleive it or not, you actually need a 6 amp power supply for those fans. unfortuntly, the fan motors may be damaged permamently from undervoltage/underamperage (not having enough power)I hope you can give me a good suggestion Stoned. I'm trying to exhaust a very small box.
OK so I purchased two of these tiny squirrel cage case fans and wired them to the black universal AC adapter (3-12v 1300ma) and since they both say 2.1a on the label I was not surprised when they came on but were not very fast at all.
I then spent way to much money on the white universal AC adapter (6-12v 2.5a) hoping that uping the amperage 2 times would gimme some positive results but received the same speed/RPMs. Luckily I was able to use the adapter without cutting it and returned it later.
I know you can't see the fans in action but I I don't think they're working up to their there rated speed of 3500 RPMs and they are definitely not 50~ dba loud like they say.
Is there a way to utilize the white cord as a speed control or can I even go with maybe a larger 12v 5a adapter for a laptop or would that draw way to much?? or am I not on the right track at all??
when rating electrical equipment for a grow op, it has to be rated for continuous duty.
this means, it must be sized 125% of the actual full load amperage.
sounds complicated, but its not-
you have 2 fans drawing 2.1 amps a peice.
2.1 x 2= 4.2
4.2 x 125% = 5.25
your power requirements for the fan motors is 5.25 amps. since you NEVER round down when dealing with power, you must round up. so a 6 amp power supply.
edit/ps-
also, some advice.... use both fans to exhaust... dont try using one fan to push, and the other to pull, it wont work right.... have them both exhausting hot air from the top of the box, and have passive intakes on the bottom of the box (fancy word for vent holes) that way, the fans remove hot air and force cooler air into the box, instead of fighting each other over pressure differentials....
Thanks so much I didn't think the 2.1 was actually what they draw from the circuit just the max amperage IDK. I have however planned everything like you said but instead of a passive intake I'm going to add one 80mm variable speed fan set to low blowing into the intake hole just to keep things moving. Can you recommend anything to supply power to these squirrel cage fans?? Thanks again.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
seriously, i wouldnt put a fan on the intake side of it...
it will make both fans noisy, and very inefficient. ever hear of cavitation?
cavitation occurs when there is a difference in pressure between a blades base and tip.
cavitation occurs because of backpressure
back pressure occurs when you are trying to push more air/liquid than can easily be moved.
fans hate back pressure.
air expands as it heats up. this expanding air increases the air pressure in your cab. you cannot prevent it from happening.
by forcing cool intake air into the cab, against this expanding air, you cause your fans to cavitate. the blades start vibrating like a mofo, get real noisy, and there ability to move air is greatly reduced.
the only way you can over come cavitation is to run pressurized ducts on a sealed venting system, or use series-start synchronized motors on the fans, and thats just rediculously expensive.
by having passive intakes, you eliminate cavitation from back pressure (unless your ducting is to small on the exhaust)
as far as my advice for the fans, try a model train speed controller
is a transformer with a speed control switch built in. make sure it is one with the 'pulse' option of running
trust me.
it will make both fans noisy, and very inefficient. ever hear of cavitation?
cavitation occurs when there is a difference in pressure between a blades base and tip.
cavitation occurs because of backpressure
back pressure occurs when you are trying to push more air/liquid than can easily be moved.
fans hate back pressure.
air expands as it heats up. this expanding air increases the air pressure in your cab. you cannot prevent it from happening.
by forcing cool intake air into the cab, against this expanding air, you cause your fans to cavitate. the blades start vibrating like a mofo, get real noisy, and there ability to move air is greatly reduced.
the only way you can over come cavitation is to run pressurized ducts on a sealed venting system, or use series-start synchronized motors on the fans, and thats just rediculously expensive.
by having passive intakes, you eliminate cavitation from back pressure (unless your ducting is to small on the exhaust)
as far as my advice for the fans, try a model train speed controller
is a transformer with a speed control switch built in. make sure it is one with the 'pulse' option of running
trust me.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
as long as your comfortable with it, and its not heating up or in any danger from being physically damaged, it should be fine.
DoctorGreen
Active Member
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You're the man.
watercooled@
Active Member
5toned, fan controllers worth using? Can you take a look at this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/308070-speedster-fan-growl.html
Also, can you point me in the right direction to a 220V 30 AMP contactor triggered by 110V? Also a 110V Contactor triggered by 110V?
I've looked through the thread and I know you've mentioned it, but can't find them.
thanks!
Also, can you point me in the right direction to a 220V 30 AMP contactor triggered by 110V? Also a 110V Contactor triggered by 110V?
I've looked through the thread and I know you've mentioned it, but can't find them.
thanks!
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
its more of a pain in the ass to do than its worth, but it is possible.
it would be easier to buy a fan that has a reversable motor, or, even easier, turn the fan 180 deg. a/c motors are a pain in the ass to reverse....
im not tpying up how to do it, lol... it takes too long.
here's a link to a step by step on how to do it, and you will see how much of a royal pain it is....
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/elec-mtr/elec-mtr.html
it would be easier to buy a fan that has a reversable motor, or, even easier, turn the fan 180 deg. a/c motors are a pain in the ass to reverse....
im not tpying up how to do it, lol... it takes too long.
here's a link to a step by step on how to do it, and you will see how much of a royal pain it is....
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/elec-mtr/elec-mtr.html