2nd Grow, 3 feminized Slippery Susan seeds in Happy Frog Soil

TankHankerous said:

This strain, Tina x Grease Monkey or Slippery Susan is sold by the well respected Exotic Genetix.

Read up on it here: https://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Slippery_Susan/Exotic_Genetix/

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Look up the definition of a "Slippery Susan.". It's like this strain I got some beans for. Banana Slammer. An RIU member just had to tell me to Google banana slammer.

TankHankerous said:

I did some research and looks like a phosphorous defieciency.... I used 5 ml per gallon of Flora bloom (high phosphorous supplement) a couple of days ago and still very yellow. Any idea when I can expect the leaves to turn back green again?

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Yes phosphorus deficiency and those damaged leaves are never going to look normal again.

TankHankerous said:

This strain, Tina x Grease Monkey or Slippery Susan is sold by the well respected Exotic Genetix.

Read up on it here: https://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Slippery_Susan/Exotic_Genetix/

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I don't care if they are well known or not....if I feel like a complete tool saying strain names there an issue lol.

I think Slippery Susan is a fine name for a strain!

Update: I transplanted from 1 gal into 3 gal pots 5 days ago. They were still moist so I didn't water them after transplant and waited 2 days.

I watered 3 days ago (Thursday) with 3 gal of tap water and 12ml of calmag Ph at 6.0 and under 120 ppms total. I figure I would just water without any nutes because this fox farm ocean forest should provide as long at the ph is at the right level. Its weird, time and time again I ph my water at 6.5 or even less but my runoff is always low 7s... I'm also showing a phosphorous deficiency in the lower leaves and now it seems the new growth is light green. I'm going to recalibrate my ph pen i guess, I'm stumped.

I guess they could be thirsty but the pots dont feel super light and i watered the shit out of them 3 days ago and they had just been transplanted into 3 gals, I figured I was good until at least Monday afternoon before any signs of droopage. I dont wanna over react but I dont wanna stress them out either if every 3 day watering is cool. Last thing I wanna do is over water these mugs

I'm going to water them, they look sadder in the last 15 min if thats even possible

First of all you are way over thinking all of this in growing. You are growing in soil so dont really need to be worrying about the ph of your water as the soil acts as a buffer for these issues. Secondly i would not use the happy frog soil as I used a few times and was not impressed with the results. I would also encourage you to keep it simple when growing. Use organic ferts like dr earth organics and you will see results in a couple of days and you wont have any issues with over fertilizing or burning. As for topping I usually top when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and have at least 4 nodes high. I then keep topping as soon as the next nodes on each part topped have a couple of nodes to grow and multiply from. For any lanky strains I will top down even further and even use that part as a clone that already has 2 main stems. I use fox farms soil and dr earths starter then the tomato herb one that also has calcium and then bud and bloom in flower. I usually use a couple of tablespoons and scratch into the soil and then just water. At each watering in flower I add soluble kelp powder. I defoliate once in flowering at about week 4 exposing all the bud sites so no energy is wasted on big fan leaves. I also do about 30% defoliation a few time during veg. I have also tried the flora series ferts and was not impressed. Whatever ails your plants use the dr earth products and transplant out of that happy frog garbage. Just my words of wisdom from someone who has grown for 40 years indoors and out.

TankHankerous said:

Update: I transplanted from 1 gal into 3 gal pots 5 days ago. They were still moist so I didn't water them after transplant and waited 2 days.

I watered 3 days ago (Thursday) with 3 gal of tap water and 12ml of calmag Ph at 6.0 and under 120 ppms total. I figure I would just water without any nutes because this fox farm ocean forest should provide as long at the ph is at the right level. Its weird, time and time again I ph my water at 6.5 or even less but my runoff is always low 7s... I'm also showing a phosphorous deficiency in the lower leaves and now it seems the new growth is light green. I'm going to recalibrate my ph pen i guess, I'm stumped.

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You are chasing rabbits that you will never catch. Chuck your ph pen as you are growing in soil. Are you letting your tap water sit for a few days before using so the chlorine dissipates?

Thanks for your help. I've been kind of winging it from youtube videos so far but the forums are just as helpful as back in the old days.... used to lurk in the old spaces but now I finally have my own place to garden so I'm trying to take full advantage. The forums continue to be my favorite place to learn so thanks again.

As far as the tap water yes I let it sit for a couple of days. When I water out of the watering can I fill up a 5 gal bucket for the next watering and let it sit. When its time to water I check the ph in the bucket its between 7 and 8.... I've been adding around 3ml per gallon of calmag per watering but after reading, it might turn out that tap water has enough minerals like calmag- and that calmag is more used for RO water. Anyway, This new shrubbery is small and kind of lime green. I understand that microbes can buffer the ph and transact nutrients with the root system. I guess my question is that I believe I identified a phosphorous deficiency but wasnt sure if it was because a lack of nutes in the the soil or a bad PH that locked out the roots ability. I appreciate your time OGD. Organic growing seemed a little intimidating as a 2nd time grower but I guess in anything you need to put the work in and learn a new system, adapt.

I'm going to play this grow out with the ocean forest because I have a huge bag left but any links or threads you can share, I'd love to read about organic growing more.

Good morrow!

TankHankerous said:

Thanks for your help. I've been kind of winging it from youtube videos so far but the forums are just as helpful as back in the old days.... used to lurk in the old spaces but now I finally have my own place to garden so I'm trying to take full advantage. The forums continue to be my favorite place to learn so thanks again.

As far as the tap water yes I let it sit for a couple of days. When I water out of the watering can I fill up a 5 gal bucket for the next watering and let it sit. When its time to water I check the ph in the bucket its between 7 and 8.... I've been adding around 3ml per gallon of calmag per watering but after reading, it might turn out that tap water has enough minerals like calmag- and that calmag is more used for RO water. Anyway, This new shrubbery is small and kind of lime green. I understand that microbes can buffer the ph and transact nutrients with the root system. I guess my question is that I believe I identified a phosphorous deficiency but wasnt sure if it was because a lack of nutes in the the soil or a bad PH that locked out the roots ability. I appreciate your time OGD. Organic growing seemed a little intimidating as a 2nd time grower but I guess in anything you need to put the work in and learn a new system, adapt.

I'm going to play this grow out with the ocean forest because I have a huge bag left but any links or threads you can share, I'd love to read about organic growing more.

Good morrow!

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A lot of times when you see things like this it is because the plant is taking energy from these leaves because it requires more and starts at the bottom. The dr earths organics are better than many other organics because they provide quick nutrients to the plant while others take longer. It could be phos deficiency or it could be a form of nute lockout. Like I said the happy frog is not that great a mix and could be having some ph issues. Can be resolved by using organic ferts so as not to burn the plant and the plant will only take what it needs without further harm. Just cut those leaves off as they are pointless and do not add any further chem nutes other than a small dose of cal mag. If things get worse you can always foliar feed although that is not preferred when in flower.

Here is an update before I flip to flower on Monday. Tomorrow I'll transfer these mugs into 5 gallon pots and water them Saturday with ph water at 6.5. One question I had was: is 3 gallons of water too much per watering for 3 plants? I water until runoff but then I was thinking maybe I water until too much runoff. Also is it important to water slowly? Maybe I'm pouring in too much at once and forcing it through...?

Anyway, I'm not happy at how not wide they are, I didn't do a very good job training them at all, aside from a couple of toppings. Next time I vow to try some low stress training and some stem manipulation to bend them down. Now, the stems are pretty rigid, not easy to bend without splitting. I think weaving them through the trellis will be a challenge.

Good evening ladies and germs, I'm glad to catch up again with you on this grow here. We're settling in here into the first week of flowering. Now, I've transplanted 3 feminized seeds from 3 gallons to 5 gallon pots 5 days ago. These mugs will be watered tomorrow with plain 6.2 ph water, into Ocean Forest. I recoken the minor tip burn isnt a problem but please critique anyway you can. I'm here to humbly learn with everyone. Thanks for taking the time to check out my garden.

I run three 10 gal pots & 3 gals for the entire grow is a bit much. I tend to poke holes thru the topsoil (2-3" deep), then water slowly.
If you just transplanted into FFOF then I would wait a good 3 weeks before feeding. FFOF typically runs hot.

Thanks for sharing your grow, I'll make sure to follow along.

Old Grower Dude said:

First of all you are way over thinking all of this in growing. You are growing in soil so dont really need to be worrying about the ph of your water as the soil acts as a buffer for these issues. Secondly i would not use the happy frog soil as I used a few times and was not impressed with the results. I would also encourage you to keep it simple when growing. Use organic ferts like dr earth organics and you will see results in a couple of days and you wont have any issues with over fertilizing or burning. As for topping I usually top when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and have at least 4 nodes high. I then keep topping as soon as the next nodes on each part topped have a couple of nodes to grow and multiply from. For any lanky strains I will top down even further and even use that part as a clone that already has 2 main stems. I use fox farms soil and dr earths starter then the tomato herb one that also has calcium and then bud and bloom in flower. I usually use a couple of tablespoons and scratch into the soil and then just water. At each watering in flower I add soluble kelp powder. I defoliate once in flowering at about week 4 exposing all the bud sites so no energy is wasted on big fan leaves. I also do about 30% defoliation a few time during veg. I have also tried the flora series ferts and was not impressed. Whatever ails your plants use the dr earth products and transplant out of that happy frog garbage. Just my words of wisdom from someone who has grown for 40 years indoors and out.

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Thanks for taking the time to respond, Old Grower Dude. These first 2 grows I'm following loosely- a fella by the name of Welcome To The Grow Tent on Youtube. Back in the forum days I used to roam, but now older and a means to grow- its good to get back to my message board roots. RIP overgrow.com

Syntax747 said:

I run three 10 gal pots & 3 gals for the entire grow is a bit much. I tend to poke holes thru the topsoil (2-3" deep), then water slowly.
If you just transplanted into FFOF then I would wait a good 3 weeks before feeding. FFOF typically runs hot.

Thanks for sharing your grow, I'll make sure to follow along.

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Thanks Syntax, much obliged!

Gotta admit I googled both slippery susan and banana slammer..urban dictionary had me rolling

It's day 34 since the switch to 12/12 light schedule. The Good: buds coming in nice for the most part, some trichome development especially on the tops. The Bad: dealing with what I believe is a phosphorous deficiency, just fed 3 part Flora Series with recharge and sweet raw-total of 540 ppms. The Ugly: I have to get better at nipping these deficiencies in the bud before they get out of hand. I'm very hesitant to add nutrients and supplements to plants because I'm in FFOF and don't want to over do it with the feedings.

Next grow I want to veg for a shorter time in a 2 x 4 tent and then transfer them into this 4 x 4 for flower. That way I can have a sort of perpetual grow cycle or as close as I can get to it.

I'm running the LED lights around 700-900 umols in the canopy with an average temp of 78 degrees Fahrenheit during lights on but could get as low as 65 with lights off. RH settles between 60 and 45 percent.

I have the 4 inch infinity exhaust on level 8 and that keeps RH in the low to mid 50s when the humidifier is on. It gets very dry in my apt in the winter.... Thinking about a bigger humidifier unit for room my tents are in, instead of putting a small unit in the tent that tends to leave calcium deposits on equipment.

Any tips or tricks or advice is appreciated! Thanks

Day 41 of Flower Update:

With about a month to go here are some recent observations: I've been getting some kind of deficiency or toxicity in some of the leaves turning yellow and dry. I think its because I waited too long to add any nutrients after the plant used up all the FFOF nutes. Then, I over compensated and fed in back to back waterings which was probably not smart. One thing I noticed is that I should add perlite into my next soil mix because the pot doesn't seem to fully dry out between waterings. My concern is I don't want the soil to dry out completely so to keep the microbes alive but also I don't want to over water either. Typically in these 5 gallon pots I water once every 3-4 days about 1 gallon of water in each pot. I've heard different opinions on watering until runoff in soil. One thing I will do from now on is water slower.

Pictures:


The closeups are pictures of the 3 plants. All of these are the same strain but this first got orange hairs before the other two. I read that could mean it was pollenated but all of these are fem seeds. I also read that it could be from wind. It makes sense because this plant is right in front of the main fan.




The second closeup is of the 2nd plant, the best looking of all 3. It has way more trichs than the other 2 plants, big tops too.



The last pic is the 3rd plant it also has orange hairs but not as much as the first one... the buds on these 2 plants arent as big as 2 and not as much trichs but pretty decent.



I will be sure to add perlite and earthworm castings to future mixes of Happy Frog and Ocean Forest. Thanks to anyone has any tips, tricks, critiques, advice, or links to good informative threads

I'm learning myself really and I wish I could help you because you have everything set up perfectly for those plants!!! It's a shame that they aren't filling that net up fully, that shit is tight!!!