Problem at 3 week of veg coco coir

dwc420letsgo

Well-Known Member
Roots follow the flow of water in a hydroponic setting. In Coco Coir a big dry back will only cause a heavy EC spike and pH being out of range. I still say drybacks are for soil grows, not hydro.

If you have a problem with over watering and/or lack of oxygen growing in Coco Coir you've chosen the wrong pot size for the size of plant you're transplanting.
If you are doing any sort of crop steering, the dry backs are very useful. Athena’s handbook is really good at explaining how to do vegetative stress vs generative stress, and when to use each one.
 

dwc420letsgo

Well-Known Member
Do you grow in coco?
I monitor my drybacks and substrate EC. Right now my plants are on week 2 of flower, so I’m aiming for bigger dryback, to develop more budsites and less stretch. On week 4-6 back to vegetative stress for bulking, then last weeks, generative stress for trichome development.

There are many ways to skin a cat, never said that your way will not work. Just said an initial dryback during transplant is helpful.
 

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Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
I learned the hard way too. Almost "steered" my first coco crop right into the compost bin.. Had a buddy grab a bag of "soil" from the grow shop on his way home from work one time. I didn't realize until a few weeks later what was really in the bag, and the clones I transplanted in it were looking very, very rough.. I was like wth. Checked out the bag after trying everything and finally figured out what was up. Thinking, what is this ammended soil looking "coco" BS? Then I found out it wasn't really soil at all, thanks to the internet. I started watering with feed daily, using PH down, and all the sudden they came back better than ever.. The hydro growth blew me away! It was the best mistake ever, and all the sudden coco was my jam!
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
If you are doing any sort of crop steering, the dry backs are very useful. Athena’s handbook is really good at explaining how to do vegetative stress vs generative stress, and when to use each one.
If you like to read real litterature explaining the subject further you should go down the cation exchange capacity(CEC) rabbit hole that explains how different mediums hold on to and releases minerals differently.

Athena doesn't mention anything regarding this very important aspect. Like other nutrient manufacturers they encourage drybacks and repeated flushes for profit. If you create salt buildup by doing drybacks you eventually need to flush to correct the mineral ratios being out of range.

They also explains EC stacking in the wrong sense saying that it comes from doing dry backs when it in reality comes from the cation exchange capacity and action of the medium from repeated feedings.
 

dwc420letsgo

Well-Known Member
If you like to read real litterature explaining the subject further you should go down the cation exchange capacity(CEC) rabbit hole that explains how different mediums hold on to and releases minerals differently.

Athena doesn't mention anything regarding this very important aspect. Like other nutrient manufacturers they encourage drybacks and repeated flushes for profit. If you create salt buildup by doing drybacks you eventually need to flush to correct the mineral ratios being out of range.

They also explains EC stacking in the wrong sense saying that it comes from doing dry backs when it in reality comes from the cation exchange capacity and action of the medium from repeated feedings.
I never “flush”, just water to runoff. I will read up on that tho, thx for the heads up.

my last run, I followed their guides (im running masterblend 0-20-42 tho) and had my best run yet. Anyways, towards the final weeks, they have you lowering EC of the feeds. You can check the runoff ec and pH but I didnt do that, no need since the plants were looking beautiful.
 

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