21st Century Drip Using 320 GPH Pump

PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Increased ppms to 800, also rez temp 82*+ so I will begin adding jugs of ice to get/keep it below 75*- should have been on top of this ~ 10 days ago
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Now this is interesting...

In the short period of a few hours from cooling down the rez temp (85>~70), the pistils all look like they have a hard on, star burst, if you will. Now it could be combination of that + increasing ppms to 800, but I increased ppm 3 feed cycles ago
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Had to some rearranging after placing my rez inside the 24 can cooler. This required me breaking down the system and cleaning the tote at the same time, so here is a pic of plants from the top as opposed to mostly semi-side views

I see stars

IMG_1556 (1024x526) (800x411) (640x329).jpg
 
Highocaine

Highocaine

Well-Known Member
Flora, your thread made me get all into automation - plus last grow I wasn't as attentive to watering as I should've been, even with wick hempies.

I'm going to try using adjustable mini-bubblers (drip, but 360 degrees) and adjustable multi-stream sprayers (8 streams, flow varies radius/arc) to provide optimum coverage. I don't have individual pumps/timers for each type, so I may just run one type in the end, but two per plant will hopefully work equally as good as a drip ring. They run 18 GPH each, so that's 144 GPH for 8.. I'll be using a 400, maybe try to get them to spray rather than stream.

Subbed up for this one.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Welcome Higho,

Automation is one of the keys, BUT, you have to check on everything every day.

Salts are known to clog the emitters. If they clog when you are gone for 8 hour work day, well... coming home to severely wilted plants is not a happy experience

This was a problem that turned me toward hpa ~ 5 years ago, but that method was extremely sensitive to the environment.

It was then that I began to develop my own version of spray bars from above instead of from below.

Medium selection became an important element. MMJ roots work best when roots are moist, not soaking

Keep us posted
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Well....I read it. A lot to not have to worry about.

no air pump
no chiller
no chiller coils
uses, passive, splash oxygen

No stinky ponds or tables
No maintaining total dark water tanks
All in a single reservoir.

Use air pots and smooth rock? Can you say more about your medium choice?

Is root rot solved for you now?

I'd say advanced. A hybrid and a lot to like here.

So, if I have it, this is thin film irrigation over smooth medium in a vertical setting, in air pots using constant spray from rings.

And it is set up in the ebb/flow config, to use gravity return for the spray pump.

My my. Bravo.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Doer Good to see you here!



All things have +-s. Although I find the UC capable, it has too many issues IMO...

Addressing some of your points

I live where it's damn hot in the summer. It would cost me $200 to recharge the ac on that side, + ~ $50/m in wall juice. I'm the chiller, rotating jugs of frozen water 4xs a day

Never had a stinky table or pot

One rez covered to prevent algae growing

I am pretty sure I discussed my rock choices early in this thread. If you can't find it, let me know

Air stones in the rez only. It's a good idea to oxygenate the rez (you are doing it by constant flow/splash of returning nutes to your rez). Small 2 outlet aquarium pump (~$10), uses very little wall juice

Currently running the automated feed system 35 seconds/hour to a 320 gph pump ($20), not much wall juice used here either. Pretty sure I am saving significant $$$$ over the juice a proper sized UC pump slurps, operating what...24/7?

In addition to those issues. IMO, UC presented potential problems as a DIY project- cutting proper holes in round buckets, grommets functioning properly over years.

As you read, the APs have lava rock on the bottom, with a top cap of river rock/ornamental stones, also, each AP has a grate on the bottom that drains quickly.

The entire root mass gets a good drink followed by a digestion/rest period vs only those roots hanging outside a net pot. Once they reach the water, they become water logged, and therefor inefficient. AND, unless rez temp is kept below 85*s you can hang out the welcome mat for root rot, worms... sick plants

But, if I was going to experiment with UC, I would strategically position a mound of lava rock large enough so that the inrushing water crashed into/over it, like a mini waterfall, creating an oxygenated splash. As I mentioned on the other site, I would offset the I/O to create an eddy current, which would be very beneficial to the roots

If you clicked on my other thread I am also doing a bubble system under leds. After several setbacks, those 2 clones are beginning to take off
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Well, thanks, you can investigate my trail of errors in UC, in my blog. I did look at the price of air pots, not bad. Not much more than a 5 gal bucket for a 3 gal air pot.

And you right about a lot of stuff here. 2 thumbs up! I'm planning a move into a room in the garage, and cutting the heat load is very important.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
OK, I read it again, and I still don't see why you are using 2 types of rocks. I can understand the lava rock, but the smooth stone?

Lava doesn't splash well, or doesn't drain well...maybe?
 
hellraizer30

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
Im just not seeing the worth of a system like this! I understand having minimal amount of medium but
this just strikes me as a problem waiting to happen :/

im following but just having a hard time seeing the worth.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Hellraiser Hmmmmmm. OK. You are certainly welcome to follow along. Feel free to ask questions. I recommend watching the Halo Drip Ring video a couple times

Doer

I use a top cap of ornamental rock for several reasons: it is more light tight than lava rock, plus, water pours/flows quickly over and around it - less potential for channeling = wider distribution of nutes over the 6" surface = more roots getting regular waterings= more plant mass = more and bigger buds
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Doer said:
OK, I read it again, and I still don't see why you are using 2 types of rocks. I can understand the lava rock, but the smooth stone?

Lava doesn't splash well, or doesn't drain well...maybe?
Click to expand...
the smoother surface area of the the smooth stones spreads the water out more than the lava rock would. falling around the sides instead of through the holes(taking the path of least resistance) of the lava rock.
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
hellraizer30 said:
Im just not seeing the worth of a system like this! I understand having minimal amount of medium but
this just strikes me as a problem waiting to happen :/

im following but just having a hard time seeing the worth.
Click to expand...
to each thier own, i personally like PF grows, i have to say they are not necessarialy the most effective, but PF is an innovator his ideas are feasible and can work. plus he is getting mass oxygen to the roots this way cant knock his style if it gets it done.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
^ They haven't always been 'the most effective', but I strive to find out why, and adjust. There should be no argument that Halo drip rings are a huge improvement over standard drip systems/rings. When these plants finish I will post pics of the root system growing all over the lava rock, like cob webs.

Noticed some minor leaf tip burn after 3 days @ ~800 ppms

Poly, I sent you a PM regarding seeds last week

Edit I have been R&Ding hydro methods for over 3 year, and feel I am now where I want to be.

Next grow (September) will be with BrandX G13 seeds (assuming they pop after also going through laundry). I will use my 21st C Hydro Halo in both tents (feeding from top down is most complete method, next to HPA)- Household LEDs v Multispectrum HOT5
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
[B]Update [/B]

I did some pruning so as to get more light to the lower buds- the lowest were cut off

Buds are swelling nicely

Sigh, I should have kept this at 14/10 for a 7-10 days longer, so the plants would grow taller, like their sibling on the right (3rd photo) in my other thread

IMG_1557.jpgIMG_1558.jpgView attachment 2680098

 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Decided to replace the ATI Blue and 2 UVL Aquasuns with a UVL Red Suns- virtual actinic ~ 620-650 red. The 633nm spectrum provides coral and Sea life a spectrum that will make remarkable colors stand out. The lamp is bright red in appearance and should be used as a supplement lamp. Specifically designed to enhance red, yellow and orange colors. It will grow plants and corals due to the high visible light spectrum that it produces.



Wow, I forgot that the AquaSuns had so much blue, no wonder the clones weren't growing:wall:

Changed bulb arrangement to compliment addition of reds

Also due to higher room heat, I decided to change feed cycle to 23 sec every 30 minutes. If I had a cycle timer that went lower, I would drop to ~ 10 seconds, but since I am using lava rock, it's not critical
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
took some pics for my other thread, so decided to update here, too.

Already seeing some older primary leafs getting bigger, although it is too late in the game for them, it is still a good sign that the spectrum blend is more balanced

Fortunately, it's been mostly overcast and rainy, which helps keep room temps below 88*


IMG_1563.jpgIMG_1564.jpgIMG_1565.jpg
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I got the ac fixed on this side of the house, and will run intermittently to keep temps/RH down

Hopefully, this will help buds to swell
 
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