20,000 Watt Medical Grow Op Construction

TheLastWood said:

Well I was referring to supercropping, where you pinch and turn and pinch as you described, but then you bend the branch till its hanging, in a few hours the growth tip will point upwards. Slowly over the next week it will start growing upwards again.

The side affects are a shorter, bushier plant, all growth tips below the "pinch point" get an auxin boost and grow. Also a hard knuckle forms where the bend was made, aNd as you mentioned, it kinda becomes a "super highway". The knuckle also helps support bud weight, as it becomes hard and bark-like.

I would imagine if you pinched until you hear the pop you mentioned, and don't bend that it would still have the added benefit of "oversozing the xylem and phloem on the rebuild" and I imagine that it would also slow down vertical growth while it healed. I have never done just a pinch with no bend, but now that you mention it, it sparks my curiosity.

Definately gonna test that. What have you noticed from just pinching? Does it grow into a thick hard stalk?

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Yeah the parts I pinch heal into a harder, thicker stem and there's a little bruise visible afterward. I've been doing it subconsciously since I started growing so I never thought about it, but this cycle I'm growing super silver haze, and I noticed it didn't stretch as crazily as everyone said it would. Granted I did a 12/12 from seed, but it not ever 2 ft tall.
I'll try and take some pics tomorrow when the lights go on.

TheLastWood said:

Bushmaster?!

Pinch and bend my friend, pinch and bend

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Yeah, if you read my original comment you'll see that I've always been die hard against using anything like that. This time is different, supercropping is what I do for a living, and it can only go so far. My plants are less than a foot from the lights already, and I just flipped. Pinch and bend aint gonna cut it, I may have to bite the bullet and severely top them which will reduce my yield overall at this stage. Anyway, just wanted to hear what dosage CG used...

Eek it woujld suck to top now!

I believe he uses 1 ml/gal

Wolverine97 said:

Yeah, if you read my original comment you'll see that I've always been die hard against using anything like that. This time is different, supercropping is what I do for a living, and it can only go so far. My plants are less than a foot from the lights already, and I just flipped. Pinch and bend aint gonna cut it, I may have to bite the bullet and severely top them which will reduce my yield overall at this stage. Anyway, just wanted to hear what dosage CG used...

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Sorry for delay. one half Ml per gallon MAX. Feed with plain water day before, day of, and day after treatment. Raise and dim lights treatment day and the next few days. My plants respond to just 1/3 ml per gallon. Best time to use is about 3 days before stretch starts in bloom. Plant will continue to age, but vertical growth stops. If you figure out the timing, you can get a plant that only stretches about 10% in bloom.

I ONLY use the BushFucker in emergencies, when I fuck the timing. I prefer some stretch for light penetration. Without the stretch, you'll need to seriously prune to get light down into the lower branches.

You can also use it in veg to guve you a week plus of no vertical growth. I do this when I KNOW I'm too early. It's like puting on the brakes for a week to 10 days. I have not noticed any quality difference when using the Bushmaster. It is a powerful tool that stunts the plants. If you use 5 Ml per gallon it would probably kill the plants. It's best to test one or 2 plants to get the right dosage prior to needing it on a whole crop. I would start with 1/4 Ml per gallon. You'll know when it works...it's very obvious.

collective gardener said:

Sorry for delay. one half Ml per gallon MAX. Feed with plain water day before, day of, and day after treatment. Raise and dim lights treatment day and the next few days. My plants respond to just 1/3 ml per gallon. Best time to use is about 3 days before stretch starts in bloom. Plant will continue to age, but vertical growth stops. If you figure out the timing, you can get a plant that only stretches about 10% in bloom.

I ONLY use the BushFucker in emergencies, when I fuck the timing. I prefer some stretch for light penetration. Without the stretch, you'll need to seriously prune to get light down into the lower branches.

You can also use it in veg to guve you a week plus of no vertical growth. I do this when I KNOW I'm too early. It's like puting on the brakes for a week to 10 days. I have not noticed any quality difference when using the Bushmaster. It is a powerful tool that stunts the plants. If you use 5 Ml per gallon it would probably kill the plants. It's best to test one or 2 plants to get the right dosage prior to needing it on a whole crop. I would start with 1/4 Ml per gallon. You'll know when it works...it's very obvious.

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Thanks man. I'll go on the low end for sure, mostly because I can't raise my lights. Can't dim them because I run mag ballasts. I'll probably go buy some shade cloth and install that above the canopy for a couple days. No noticeable yield reduction?

Wolverine97 said:

Thanks man. I'll go on the low end for sure, mostly because I can't raise my lights. Can't dim them because I run mag ballasts. I'll probably go buy some shade cloth and install that above the canopy for a couple days. No noticeable yield reduction?

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No yield reduction. In fact, potential for increased yield. If you use it in the stretch phase, the plants stay more compact. So much so, that you can fit more plants in a given area. However many plants you add will be your yield increase. The difference in finish size between a treated and un treated plant is, as always, strain dependant. It just depends on how much bigger the plant would normally get during the 7-10 days the treatment is regulating growth. With the Bubba the difference is between 35 plants and 50 plants. Treated, I get 50 plants a tray...untreated I get 35 plants per tray. The treated plants yield slightly less than un treated plants due to better light penetration in a stretched plant...but the additional plants MORE than make up for this tiny yield reduction.

I read an article in high times where a guy used bushmaster and swore by it. He said it increased his yeild noticeably.

^^^ I always gotta chime in when I hear notable yeild enhancement from a bottle with hormones not designed to affect yeild TOoo many factors contribute. To yeild... I have been playing cricket and bird sounds at 100 decibles an it opens the stoma and make foliar feeding really work proven with my microscope... Playing classical music increases yeild not magic potions that will stack shit so tight mold can be an issue on sativa crosses I know I have abused it ... Too much can and will perm fuck up plants.. Just my grain of salt fromthe last ten years

Joedank said:

^^^ I always gotta chime in when I hear notable yeild enhancement from a bottle with hormones not designed to affect yeild TOoo many factors contribute. To yeild... I have been playing cricket and bird sounds at 100 decibles an it opens the stoma and make foliar feeding really work proven with my microscope... Playing classical music increases yeild not magic potions that will stack shit so tight mold can be an issue on sativa crosses I know I have abused it ... Too much can and will perm fuck up plants.. Just my grain of salt from the last ten years

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You're probably right, and I would totally use mozart and birdies before I used, but I don't think the bottle claims to increase yeild. It was from a grower with a very impressive grow room so I wouldn't doubt the he/she had some time growing too. The man said it increased his yeild. It probably has something to do with the strain as he said some strains react to it a lot better than others. I don't believe in magic potions either, just thought it was worth mentioning.

Joedank said:

^^^ I always gotta chime in when I hear notable yeild enhancement from a bottle with hormones not designed to affect yeild TOoo many factors contribute. To yeild... I have been playing cricket and bird sounds at 100 decibles an it opens the stoma and make foliar feeding really work proven with my microscope... Playing classical music increases yeild not magic potions that will stack shit so tight mold can be an issue on sativa crosses I know I have abused it ... Too much can and will perm fuck up plants.. Just my grain of salt fromthe last ten years

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As I said, my experience with Bushmaster is that it DOES NOT increase yield. BUT, it may give you a more compact plant with THE SAME yield...allowing you more plants in a given area, and therefore more TOTAL yield in said area.

That being said. I do not use the stuff to increase yield. I use it once or twice per year when my bad timing results in the incoming crop being too tall. For me, it's just another tool. Suppercropping, topping in bloom, and/or LST is NOT an option for me. Any of those methods will dratically affect my carefully planned canopy shape and therefore fuck my yield all to hell. The Bushmaster allows me to control my plants height, while maintaining plant and canopy SHAPE. It just gives you the ability to look at your plants and say, "stay that height for 10 days"...and they obey.

OK well I'll find the article, and I'll type it up.

More plants same space is a definite increase in plants per sq ft and usally ups my yeild . I had ten sour crosses in my greenhouse like six feet tall last run . But the 20 apollo 13 in there now looks like way more product although they are only 3 ft...
I was not trying to pick a fight I really believe the hormones and other things work in bushmasters product as stated but yeild increase from a shorter plant is an amazing claim unless like you CG more plAnts are involved .. My best yeild was from plants flipped just after transplanting and heavy pruning. They shot up three feet in the stretch but filled all stacked colas;$

Joedank said:

More plants same space is a definite increase in plants per sq ft and usally ups my yeild . I had ten sour crosses in my greenhouse like six feet tall last run . But the 20 apollo 13 in there now looks like way more product although they are only 3 ft...
I was not trying to pick a fight I really believe the hormones and other things work in bushmasters product as stated but yeild increase from a shorter plant is an amazing claim unless like you CG more plants are involved .. My best yeild was from plants flipped just after transplanting and heavy pruning. They shot up three feet in the stretch but filled all stacked colas;$

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No fight. All's good.
I like a challenge that's all

CG and all other experienced DWC guys, can you please give some input on my thread..im having an issue with 2 of my plants in a multi DWC bubbleponic site, i need them to survive until harvest, please check out my sig all input is greatly appreciated!!

mastiffkush said:

CG and all other experienced DWC guys, can you please give some input on my thread..im having an issue with 2 of my plants in a multi DWC bubbleponic site, i need them to survive until harvest, please check out my sig all input is greatly appreciated!!

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I hit your thread bro hope it helps

hellraizer30 said:

I hit your thread bro hope it helps

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Thanks for the input +Rep!

collective gardener said:

Hate to change subject, BUT...I 'd like to hear what people are doing for spider mites. I have the spotted mite (thank god...the pure red mite is almost impossible to get rid of). They're in my bloom room, on plants about 4 weeks along. I am treating with Spinosad right now. I was using this for thrips, and it says good for mites, too. It worls wonders for thrips...I don't know about mites. I want to use 2 or 3 different products for a multi pronged attack. We'll bomb the veg room with Dr Doom, of course. All spider mite killing product info is welcome.

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Im still reading through the whole thing, so allow me a few days to catch up
but one of the best products for killing spider mites in my opinion is the Plant Vitality Plus, I live in So-Cal but bought it from a hydroshop in United Kingdom. I used the product 1 time and it killed the spidermites within the day. It's been 4 days since I did the application and I have not seen any signs of spider mites in my garden at all! Just to be thorough I went ahead and did a minor spray down on the plants today just incase of any larva or eggs that i might of missed.

On a side note I've been reading quite a bit and I notice you don't talk too much about your ppm's in flower. I did read at one point it said around 900 then you slowly drop it for harvesting time. So I'm alittle curious on what type of nutrients you like to stick with and your ppm's. Also I'm curious if you use any foliar spray during veg. I started to use the liquid light and saturator. Seems to be doing quite beautiful for me.

Hey gardener of the collective...
I wasnt able to read all 172 pages ...but i think its cool of you to share your adventures with us fellow riuer's...
Did u say u get cuts from clonervile ??? I would recoomend po in sfv... thats where i get most of mine....

The 99 plant rule is key ...even tho your a colectve .. shit happens... and underr 99 is better for reasons...

I have some descent genetics..... and a whole slu of medical patients...cliente'....that i can only maintain for so long... dont grow as much as you.... but their practically breaking down my door as we speak to get top shelves for 10 a gram...(only i an do this)...

So let me know were your club is.... i stay on the northeast side of la ...central to all the greatest dispenciaries...
I have many clubs i frequent and know many growers... if u ever need a certain elite strain ... im sure we could find it and verify it out....

let me know ....just a patient/grower...

Hey CG if you have free time could you swing by my thread and check it out, throw in some opinions. I love hearing new input from people or any tips that you might have to help me out. Thanks.

Joedank said:

More plants same space is a definite increase in plants per sq ft and usally ups my yeild . I had ten sour crosses in my greenhouse like six feet tall last run . But the 20 apollo 13 in there now looks like way more product although they are only 3 ft...
I was not trying to pick a fight I really believe the hormones and other things work in bushmasters product as stated but yeild increase from a shorter plant is an amazing claim unless like you CG more plAnts are involved .. My best yeild was from plants flipped just after transplanting and heavy pruning. They shot up three feet in the stretch but filled all stacked colas;$

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I think I have told this story here before. One of my best indoor yields was a 4x8 tray packed with 275 plants in 4x4x4 rockwool blocks. You read it right...275 plants, or 9 plants per sq ft. The table was a flood & drain. and was lit by a single 1000 watt HPS, Agrosun bulb, on a light mover that tracked the reflector back and forth. The plants were flipped to 12/'12 as soon as the majority of them showed sure signs of new growth for a couple days. The strain was Northern Lights #5. The plants made a nice sea of 7 gram donkey dicks. The yield ended up to be right around 2.5 ozs/sq ft...a record at the time. 1.92 grams per watt. 4 lbs from one 4x8 tray. All of these were, and still are, records for me. I believe it shows that higher plant density gives higher yield right up to insane plant numbers.

I would love to do this type of density today. Unfortunately, it would mean 1700+ plants in bloom, and times where I would have 3400+. That's way too many plants regardless of patient numbers. My attorney caps us on 10 plants per patient and a set total max amount of plants at any time, which I won't go into. If I could run that density now, it would mean over 30lbs every 2 months. Needless to say, I'm not getting that now. If I was growing closet or other small area, I would use the 9 plant per sq ft density.