20,000 Watt Medical Grow Op Construction

collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
NorthernLights#5 said:
ok so over the past few days Ive seen many posts about lighting change, What I wanna know is why? I mean i run them from seed/clone 24 on for 2 weeks, then to 16/8 for veg, and straight to 12/12. I guess Im asking am I doing something wrong there? It does work with good results.
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Most folks veg 18/6 rather than 16/8. Studies have shown that there are diminishing returns after 18hrs of light each day.
 
collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
It was a long wait...but so worth it. We've harvested 11 plants. The perpetual harvest has begun. The first 11 plants were is 5 gallon pots full of Sinshine #4. The next 20 or so plants are also in Sunshine #4, but in 10 gallon pots. They look to yield around double what the 5 gallon plants did. All plants after this first 30 are in pure coco, and will be in 10 gallon pots. We do have some small Laughganis in 5 gallons of coco, but they are only 18" tall. We could tell that the Bubbas in the 5 gallon pots were feeling their container. While they did get pretty big for an indoor Bubba, they were nowhere near the size of the 10 gallon plants. We may even try a couple 15-20 gallon containers to see what they do.

Anyways, here's a pic of the yield off of 1 - 5 gallon plant. The branches had been hung for about 5 days. Then the buds were stripped and placed in this drawer. They stay in the drawer overnight, then go onto a screen tray overnight. At that point, they are ready for the burping.Buds 1.jpgBuds 2.jpg
 
H

herbdoctor420

Member
this thread is awesome collective gardener..i have been looking and looking for one like this for awhile. im only at page 11 because there is so much useful information i stop and read some twice to take it all in and use it in my plans. i keep having questions but then they keep getting answered haha. so ill save them for when i finish =)
 
rosecitypapa

rosecitypapa

Active Member
collective gardener said:
On a side note, I have tried blooming plants using a 6 on/12 off lighting schedule. The net effect is smaller plants that finish 30% sooner. A 60 day plant will be done in 40 days. However, the plants are about 40% smaller. Obviously the shorter bloom duration is not worth it due to loss of yield exceeding shortening of time. BUT, when I used to highgrade alot, and was testing 100's of seeds, I had a small extra bloom room set up on this 6 on/12 off schedule. I could then see the results of each seed 20 days sooner! While highgrading I was not interested in obtaining maximum yield from each harvest. My only yield considerations were how much one seed yielded compared to another. Since they were all on the reduced daytime schedule, I could determine this. Using this method is a great way to find that "special lady" considerably faster than the traditional 12/12 bloom schedule. This technique was taught to me by an old So Cal commercial grower, who, after choosing to grow a new strain, would plant 100+ seeds, take 3 cuttings from every plant, and throw the original plant away. After the cuts were rooted well he would bloom one cut and save one cut in veg (the 3rd cut was in case of clone death). This Old Boy would cure and smoke EVERY ONE of those hundred plants to find the one with the best quality. He would then compare quality with yield to determine which one or 2 cuts in the veg stage were to be his new mothers. This demands much commitment. But, he was the most successful (read rich...LOL) commercial grower I have ever known. Today he spends his time relaxing is his not-so-humble home in Belize.
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Hey 'sup CG! Glad to see your grow coming along and for your first harvest out of that room. The NL discussion a couple of pages back really brought back some memories.

Thanks for the above tip, since my aspirations are to breed, that info is indispensable. Also good job on keeping the good vibe going in this thread, props to all the contributors.
 
collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
theexpress said:
really??? what studies have shown this??? care to link?
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LMAO! Too funny. Link. Sorry...this just cracks me up because I learned this before the web was a thing. I have no idea where I read it. Probably one of Ed's books circa late 80's early 90's.

Seriously, though, I have noticed it myself...especially with larger plants. The smaller plants seem to grow with every hour of light given to them. However, I don't see a huge difference with my larger plants between 24 and 18 hrs of light. I run my clones flouros and T-5's 24 hrs on. The T-5's cover plants that have just rooted for about the first 10 days of veg. If I were to run them 18 on, I would see a marked slow down in growth.
 
T

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
Yeah clones n seedlings get 24 till they go under my hid. Little babies don't need sleep they just ned to concentrate on growin some fatty roots. But when there vegging and obviously when flowering, they need a sleepy time to perform certain functions that only happen in darkness. Mostly foliage growth and cell growth processes. Been looking into light a lot more lately (sparked by riddleme) and its simply amazing, one could spend there entire life learning about light and its effects and never learn it all. Mostly been looking into the red spectrum, infrared, far red, which are examples of some things that happen or signal "night time"
 
collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Hate to change subject, BUT...I 'd like to hear what people are doing for spider mites. I have the spotted mite (thank god...the pure red mite is almost impossible to get rid of). They're in my bloom room, on plants about 4 weeks along. I am treating with Spinosad right now. I was using this for thrips, and it says good for mites, too. It worls wonders for thrips...I don't know about mites. I want to use 2 or 3 different products for a multi pronged attack. We'll bomb the veg room with Dr Doom, of course. All spider mite killing product info is welcome.
 
NorthernLights#5

NorthernLights#5

Active Member
I love azamax had an issue with mites once before from some clones I had gotton, You can spray infected area as well as add it to your watering once a week for three weeks and you should be A OK. I would also start hitting all your clones and vegging plants with it as a precaution. Ive also heard that if you put a random plant in the area were you have them and not treat it and treat the others that the mites will migrate to said random plant and then just take that plant out all together.
 
SCCA

SCCA

Active Member
i use azamax (or azatrol) supplemented with a 2 stage pyrethrin bomb during veg, cant remember the brand right now. avoid Avid, the mites become immune in a few generations. over use of avid is what lead to the evoloution of the mendo mite. there are several mixing strengths on the label, i start with the mid range of the low strength and work up from there. use the strongest dose your plants can handle. generally i use the stronger mid range and it works great. much stronger than that and the leaves curl and twist a bit.
 
Stoner.Barbie

Stoner.Barbie

Well-Known Member
vaccuume those fuckers off, just suck em right off and then use your spray. just a suggestion. seen a lot of peple do this.
 
mellokitty

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
good ol' neem + peppermint dr. bronner's for preventative, pyrethrin-based pesties if we have to. if you can still find the original safer's endall, (not endall2, which is a different formulation, apparently, we found that out the hard way -- thanks safers ;)), it's quite effective.

also d. earth on soil surface and around pot rims to prevent spread (no leaf touching either!) for crawlers.

in other news, my bestie has bedbugs. do you think spinosad would be good against them?
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
I've had success with neem oil in the past (Einstein Oil!), but Azamax works beautifully, for me it even dried up the eggs that were on the leaf undersides. I rarely have issues with mites because I'm a fucking nazi about how I handle new clones coming into my area, I spray or dip every one and they're isolated for a week before introduced to the garden. I've heard very good things about Ed Rosenthal's new "Zero Tolerance" spray, and it's made from natural oils too. I hate bombs and No Pest strips, I just don't feel they should be used on consumables.

I know you don't have co2 yet, but that's another option that leaves no residual but it only kills the live ones, not the eggs. Just raise your ambient levels over 4000ppm overnight and anything in there is going to die. Except the girls of course, they'll be fine.
 
ENDLSCYCLE

ENDLSCYCLE

Well-Known Member
mellokitty said:
good ol' neem + peppermint dr. bronner's for preventative, pyrethrin-based pesties if we have to. if you can still find the original safer's endall, (not endall2, which is a different formulation, apparently, we found that out the hard way -- thanks safers ;)), it's quite effective.

also d. earth on soil surface and around pot rims to prevent spread (no leaf touching either!) for crawlers.

in other news, my bestie has bedbugs. do you think spinosad would be good against them?
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Bedbugs????.....seriously????bedbugs????Thought they were bloodsuckers...not herbivores...LOL.....eeeewwwww....creepycrawly....their was an outbreak of bedbugs at hotels in my area a few months back....worst thing was I was working on the road staying in hotels.....talk about fkn itching all night long......I.....HATE.....BUGS!!!!!!
 
mellokitty

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
oh yeah, they are bloodsuckers all right. no, i meant like she has them. in her apartment. apparently there's 'issues' all over the building.
 
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