20,000 Watt Medical Grow Op Construction

tremend00oo

Active Member
hey collective gardener ... how big is the enitre warehouse? and did you have to disclose what your operation was going to be when leasing it? did they ask for special requirement ?
 

d6520

Well-Known Member
This is my bong. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My bong is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. My bong, without me, is useless. Without my bong, I am useless..... lol lmao
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
This is my bong. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My bong is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. My bong, without me, is useless. Without my bong, I am useless..... lol lmao
ok private d6520 where you hide the donuts!!
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
One penetration comment really warrants 11 posts? Damn, gang...I know it's been a couple days since I posted pics, but did we really need to go here? BTW, I am running 2 Adjusts a Wings now and the super spreader isn't necessary. Even without it, the light is much brighter below the perimeter of the reflector, as oposed to directly under the bulb. That's the beauty of these great reflectors. We place the plants we really want to cook directly under the perimeter.
 

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
One penetration comment really warrants 11 posts? Damn, gang...I know it's been a couple days since I posted pics, but did we really need to go here? BTW, I am running 2 Adjusts a Wings now and the super spreader isn't necessary. Even without it, the light is much brighter below the perimeter of the reflector, as oposed to directly under the bulb. That's the beauty of these great reflectors. We place the plants we really want to cook directly under the perimeter.
Sorry man, I'm a bit immature at times.
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
hey collective gardener ... how big is the enitre warehouse? and did you have to disclose what your operation was going to be when leasing it? did they ask for special requirement ?
Warehouse is about 1500 sq ft. Whether you disclose or not is up to you. There are grows in our complex that have disclosed and there are simple requirements that every legal collective has anyway. We chose not to disclose on this op. If we are asked we won't lie, as we have all the paperwork, insurance, etc...
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
IMG_0393.jpgDSC_0555.jpgIMG_0394.jpg
One penetration comment really warrants 11 posts? Damn, gang...I know it's been a couple days since I posted pics, but did we really need to go here? BTW, I am running 2 Adjusts a Wings now and the super spreader isn't necessary. Even without it, the light is much brighter below the perimeter of the reflector, as oposed to directly under the bulb. That's the beauty of these great reflectors. We place the plants we really want to cook directly under the perimeter.
here some pics for you collective left 2 are a local strain and far right is orange kush
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
We constructed the Rubermaid drying shack yesterday. It's basically a 4 x 8 x 7 feet tall plastic tool shed. We pulled tight wires across it for drying lines. I installed a 6" carbon filter and a 6" inline fan on a speed control for the exhaust. We also put a dehunidifier inside. The exhaust fan is set on a very slow speed...just enough to ensure slight negative air pressure inside. This controls any odor from leaving the shed since it's placed in the main warehouse section. The humidity is set at 60% right now and will stay there for the first 3 days. I like to stay as humid and cool as possible for the first 3 days to actually keep the plant tissue "alive". We keep it right on the edge of mildew and mold. I have found that this is the key to getting rid of all grass clipping smells. A wet towel is hung up with the plants if the outside air becomes too dry. The humidifier can then keep the RH just where we want it.

After a few days, the humidity will be dropped to 50%. We deviated a little from my standard drying/curing method on this grow. I usually only remove the large leaves at harvest...leaves with no crystals. Leaves with crystals stay on the plant until totally dry and cured a week. This time, we tried to do the final trim right off the bat. I' have done this before as have most people. I believe it's the most popular method. I prefer to leave some leaves on to better control the dry and protect the buds, but a friend convinced me to do it the old way. His view is #1 It's easier (which it clearly is) #2 When you final trim on dry buds, trichomes are lost and damaged. By doing the final trim right off the bat, there is less handling of the dry buds, which, we all know, is a good thing.

Once the stems almost snap, we remove the buds from the stems and go into boxes for the burping. I have to say that a regular old cardboard box works very well for this. At least it does for the first part. When it comes down to the last few burps, plastic or glass becomes necessary to better seal the buds between burps. Paper bags and cardboard boxes reduce the chances of mold and mildew greatly.

Anyways, I've got a plant or 2 with around 40 -50% cloudy trichomes. They are coming out today. I harvested one small one 2 days ago. I'll have pics tonight.
 

Bonzi Lighthouse

Well-Known Member
CG - What Humidity do you maintain in the Jars curing?

If I recall you don't do a Long (Months) cure, do to the nature of the collective. Do you harvest and dry different based on your short cure?
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
That is absolutely how I would be drying a large harvest... controlled smell, controlled air movement, controlled humidity and darkness :)
I'm absolutely loving it.
 

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
We constructed the Rubermaid drying shack yesterday. It's basically a 4 x 8 x 7 feet tall plastic tool shed. We pulled tight wires across it for drying lines. I installed a 6" carbon filter and a 6" inline fan on a speed control for the exhaust. We also put a dehunidifier inside. The exhaust fan is set on a very slow speed...just enough to ensure slight negative air pressure inside. This controls any odor from leaving the shed since it's placed in the main warehouse section. The humidity is set at 60% right now and will stay there for the first 3 days. I like to stay as humid and cool as possible for the first 3 days to actually keep the plant tissue "alive". We keep it right on the edge of mildew and mold. I have found that this is the key to getting rid of all grass clipping smells. A wet towel is hung up with the plants if the outside air becomes too dry. The humidifier can then keep the RH just where we want it.

After a few days, the humidity will be dropped to 50%. We deviated a little from my standard drying/curing method on this grow. I usually only remove the large leaves at harvest...leaves with no crystals. Leaves with crystals stay on the plant until totally dry and cured a week. This time, we tried to do the final trim right off the bat. I' have done this before as have most people. I believe it's the most popular method. I prefer to leave some leaves on to better control the dry and protect the buds, but a friend convinced me to do it the old way. His view is #1 It's easier (which it clearly is) #2 When you final trim on dry buds, trichomes are lost and damaged. By doing the final trim right off the bat, there is less handling of the dry buds, which, we all know, is a good thing.

Once the stems almost snap, we remove the buds from the stems and go into boxes for the burping. I have to say that a regular old cardboard box works very well for this. At least it does for the first part. When it comes down to the last few burps, plastic or glass becomes necessary to better seal the buds between burps. Paper bags and cardboard boxes reduce the chances of mold and mildew greatly.

Anyways, I've got a plant or 2 with around 40 -50% cloudy trichomes. They are coming out today. I harvested one small one 2 days ago. I'll have pics tonight.
This is the method I typically use for exactly the same reason as your friend, less trichome damage. I've got a Trim Reaper sitting in my garage that I won't use for that same reason too...
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Here's some random pics:

These 2 pics are 6 week bubbas in 10 gallon pots. The bud size and overall plant size of the 10 gallon plants are quite a bit larger than the 5's. Of course the 10's were also vegged 2 weeks longer. We did have to thin these quite a bit due to excessive mid plant growth. Without thinning they would have yielded abunch of nice tops, but the product would have stopped about 10" into the canopy. By trimming most large fan leaves and some smaller shoots, we were able to get good solid nugs 24" deep into the canopy.
6 week bubbas 2.jpg
6 week bubbas.jpg

These are the bubbas ready for harvest. I cut down one to have an early sample for our patients. The extra few days made a big difference on the yield on the remaining 10. The trichs are around 40% cloudy. As soon as we see 50% they will come down. We're at 7 weeks right now. There's not 1 amber trich to be found so I'm ok waiting a little longer. We'll either take them at 50% cloudy or at the first sign of amber. The plants have been flushed with pure RO for the last week and the leaves show it. The Cutting Edge nutes we use kept the leaves green right up to the flush. These plants were fed at 1000ppm. We've started feeding the 10 gallon pots at 1250ppm due to some light green leaves. I am not a fan of pushing the plants with nutes. I know many like to see some claw to know that they are maxing out the nutes. I've found that when this is done, the flush needs to be 2 or more weeks. I would rather get steady growth and a 1 week flush.
Bubba Ready For Harvest.jpg
Bubba Ready for Harvest 2.jpg
Bubba Top.jpg
Bubba Top 2.jpg
Bubba Nugs.jpg
Bubba Nug 2.jpg


Here's another pic of Godzilla in bloom. I've done no training on this bad ol' boy. We just wanted to see what it would do in the DWC bucket naturally. Well, the growth will all be up top. Not topping Bubba's is not a good idea if you're growing big plants. For some reason, it's taking quite a bit longer to show signs of flowers than the coco plants. Today, Helper D changed the water and gave it 1500ppm of some heavy bloom mix. He cut out almost all N in the hopes of giving her a little nudge into bloom. I may just put her in a dark room for 24 hrs if she can't get her shit together.
Godzilla.jpg


These 4 Lavander cross's are in our "overflow" bloom section. This is supposed to be a walkway. I just couldn't wait to get some more into bloom after seeing what the first test plant was doing. Once we do some harvesting and hang up the last 1000, we'll get em out of the walkway. I've accepted that there's just so much available bloom room. It's a sad truth. I'll use the 2 - 600 watt ballasts to power a couple free hanging vertical bare bulbs. We'll just move them around as side lighting along the edge of the plants. OR, I may suroud one with 4 or 5 small plants to see what that does. As you all know, I've been dying to try the vertical bare bulb thing. This, of course, will take place in the walkway again. Helper D is getting a little pissed off at me for crowding his working area. I had to promise him a couple of those plants for himself for the extra effort.
Overflow Lavs Under 600.jpg


This is the new drying shack. Until we can settup an offsite drying room, this will have to due. It's a Rubbermaid garden shed. We drilled holes in the sides and pulled tight wires to hang branches on. I installed a 6" inline fan and carbon filter with a speed control to exhaust just enough air to keep slight negative pressure...eliminating odor leaks. There is a dehumidifier and a wet shirt hanging from a wire to make sure we can keep the humidity at 60% for these first few days. As new plants come in, we'll just have to settle on around 55% for the entire drying cycle. The bucket contains the sugar trim. After around a week on the wires, the buds get removed from the branch and go into carboard boxes. After 4-5 days in the boxes they'll go into plastic until we obtain 55% humidity inside the plastic container. We've found that 55% RH seems to be the sweet spot for long term storage. I'm not a fan of bags because the buds get smashed around too much. I like natural buds not compacted. Evertime I use bags they seem to get smashed a little. I know that many people like to compact their buds a little for bag appeal, but we like em natural, so the crystals can be seen deep into the bud.
Drying Room.jpg
BTW, the white thing above the dehumidifier is a sheet of plastic to deflect the breeze from the unit away from the hanging buds.
 

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
Ooo man I bet you can't wait to try some.... or have you?

I cut down 2 of my jack herers tonight n smoked 1 hit of scissor hash (just the resin and pistils stuck to the scissors) and got so ripped lol.

Those bubbas filled out a lot in the past few weeks, compared to how they were.
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
I, too, have some scissor hash stuck to a hose clamp. We keep 8" hose clamps on the trim table. The nice sharp ede on the hose clamp scrapes the hash right off the scissors. Then you just wipe the next bit next to the last. After a day of trimming, we end up with 5 or 6 hose clamps covered in it. We just scrape it off with a razor and have a nice big pile! I love that shit, too!

I want one of those pollen tumblers for the sugar trim. Dry kief in a vaporizor is my favorite smoke. I'll take it over any other concentrate. My friend trimmed 14 lbs last week and tumbled out over 2 ozs of super clean kief. To smell the jar of that stuff is a piece of heaven.
 
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