1st tent

DaDutchy

DaDutchy

Member
Hi There
New here, due to the climate started growing inside for medical purposes. CBD from the main street shop does not do it on fybro, but "normal" stuff does
I have a few different plants kicking of at different stages
A few auto AK47 ... , an Auto-duck .... a few Hollands Hope for the Garden and 2 photo's Kaline and Chili
(Keeping my light schedule on 18-6 which should not bother my autos)

But regarding that light ... I am confused

At the moment I am running 18/6 1200W Chinese LED Light

0 new items by Paddle Hands

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

Can someone explain in plain N00b English what those switches are for
Veg ON Bloom OFF is for Vegging stage and Veg OFF Bloom ON for Blooming stage seem logical
But I read BOTH on in either stage
What is the point in switching the light colour(frequencies) if you can have them all on all the time?
 
Ukulele Haze

Ukulele Haze

Well-Known Member
After researching, I gather the switches mimic Summer (Veg) and Fall (Flower) lighting. So, I think the intent is to have only the Veg switch on during Veg, and both switches on during Flower. I get the impression some people run them with both switches on all the time.

Truthfully, I believe your light is pretty under-powered for all the plants you are talking about. You can see on the label in your photograph it says "Actual Power Consumption: 135W ~ 150W." From my experience, that's only suitable Wattage for one, maybe two plants.
 
Last edited:
DaDutchy

DaDutchy

Member
Ukulele Haze said:
I think the idea with the switches is to mimic Summer (Veg) and Fall (Flower) lighting. So, I think the intent is to have only the Veg switch on during Veg, and both switches on during Flower. I get the impression some people run them with both switches on all the time.

Truthfully, I believe your light is pretty under-powered for all the plants you are talking about. You can see on the label in your photograph it says "Actual Power Consumption: 135W ~ 150W." From my experience, that's only suitable Wattage for one, maybe two plants.
Click to expand...
That wattage would be LED power consumption. Light "density" or brightness is not measured in Wattage.
130Watt compares to a 1300Watt "old system" but I might be wrong

Now it looks all fancy the pretty coloured lights but is it usefull or a gimmick?

Anyone that can explain me WHY
you would use a single setting for either state and why not both?

Is it a power issue 1/2 the lights is 1/2 the powerconsumption and "summer" full power is not needed till bloom and the colours are a gimmick?

All these light boxes seem to have two settings?



As for the ammount of plants
A good few are going to move outdoors soon
Aiming to leave 2 autos and 2 photos in the tent and be rid of the autos by the time the photos are ready for flipping.

(A friends crop failed last year completely so i am not putting all my eggs in one basket)
 
J

JimmyJackCorn

Well-Known Member
DaDutchy said:
That wattage would be LED power consumption. Light "density" or brightness is not measured in Wattage.
130Watt compares to a 1300Watt "old system" but I might be wrong

Now it looks all fancy the pretty coloured lights but is it usefull or a gimmick?
Click to expand...
It's a gimmick for sure. You will only get the power that is drawn from the wall.

At different stages, plants require different amounts of light. For a 130W blurple, I would have both switches on all the time, except maybe at the tiny seedling stage.
 
DaDutchy

DaDutchy

Member
JimmyJackCorn said:
It's a gimmick for sure. You will only get the power that is drawn from the wall.

At different stages, plants require different amounts of light. For a 130W blurple, I would have both switches on all the time, except maybe at the tiny seedling stage.
Click to expand...
120Leds at 10W is 1200W, Light is measured in Lumens ;)
These switches seem to be present on systems from $200 - $2000

Again anyone here with the biology or physics knowledge to make a coherent explanation?
 
C

Chapp

Active Member
Im currently using a blurple that draws 200w for one plant in a 2x2 and tbh it doesnt seem enough for flowering(ive ordered a hlg now).
As for the switches i kept them both on
 
Dank Bongula

Dank Bongula

Well-Known Member
DaDutchy said:
120Leds at 10W is 1200W, Light is measured in Lumens ;)
These switches seem to be present on systems from $200 - $2000

Again anyone here with the biology or physics knowledge to make a coherent explanation?
Click to expand...
You do not have a 1200watt light.

I don't know how many times you need to be told before it sinks in.

The actual powerdraw in wattage from your wall when you plug that light in is 135+- watts. Go get a watt meter and plug it in and see for yourself.

Your little math equation of 120 x 10 does not work like that. Each LED is not pulling 10watts from your wall. It is not comparable to an actual 1200w lamp no matter what the fucking box or ad for it says.

Turn both switches on and leave them on because you need all 135+- watts of that light to make your plants grow.

Blue Spectrum
The blue spectrum of light is very important for cannabis plant growth. This wavelength lies between 450nm and 495nm. This color of light is best used at the sprout and vegetative stage of growth as it promotes rapid growth and development of the plant.

Outdoors during spring blue light energy is abundant. This is a natural trigger for new growth. It also keeps marijuana plants stable by helping them grow a strong stem and aids in the process of photosynthesis. Plants that are blue light deficient often turn out pale or yellow and are often weak flopping over under their weight.

Blue light can easily and quickly be supplemented by using cool white fluorescent bulbs, but most LED and alternative grow lights will provide blue light as well.

Red Spectrum
The final color on the visible light spectrum is red. It has a wavelength that ranges from 620nm to 750nm. This light is necessary during the flowering stage of marijuana plants. Adding red light induces budding and flowering. Many cannabis growers will switch to a stronger red light source once their plant gets to the flowering stage. Red light mixed with blue gets the best response from cannabis plants.
 
C

Chapp

Active Member
Dank Bongula said:
You do not have a 1200watt light.

I don't know how many times you need to be told before it sinks in.

The actual powerdraw in wattage from your wall when you plug that light in is 135+- watts. Go get a watt meter and plug it in and see for yourself.

Your little math equation of 120 x 10 does not work like that. Each LED is not pulling 10watts from your wall. It is not comparable to an actual 1200w lamp no matter what the fucking box or ad for it says.

Turn both switches on and leave them on because you need all 135+- watts of that light to make your plants grow.

Blue Spectrum
The blue spectrum of light is very important for cannabis plant growth. This wavelength lies between 450nm and 495nm. This color of light is best used at the sprout and vegetative stage of growth as it promotes rapid growth and development of the plant.

Outdoors during spring blue light energy is abundant. This is a natural trigger for new growth. It also keeps marijuana plants stable by helping them grow a strong stem and aids in the process of photosynthesis. Plants that are blue light deficient often turn out pale or yellow and are often weak flopping over under their weight.

Blue light can easily and quickly be supplemented by using cool white fluorescent bulbs, but most LED and alternative grow lights will provide blue light as well.

Red Spectrum
The final color on the visible light spectrum is red. It has a wavelength that ranges from 620nm to 750nm. This light is necessary during the flowering stage of marijuana plants. Adding red light induces budding and flowering. Many cannabis growers will switch to a stronger red light source once their plant gets to the flowering stage. Red light mixed with blue gets the best response from cannabis plants.
Click to expand...
This guy is talking sense,my blurple is advertised as a 450w but it only pulls 200w from the wall
 
J

JimmyJackCorn

Well-Known Member
DaDutchy said:
120Leds at 10W is 1200W, Light is measured in Lumens ;)
These switches seem to be present on systems from $200 - $2000

Again anyone here with the biology or physics knowledge to make a coherent explanation?
Click to expand...
Light is measured in many ways (color, intensity, pressure, all governed by frequency, wavelength, and amplitude).

You have not done basic research. As such, you haven't the foundation to question the font of knowledge you can find on this forum.
 
DaDutchy

DaDutchy

Member
JimmyJackCorn said:
You have not done basic research. As such, you haven't the foundation to question the font of knowledge you can find on this forum.
Click to expand...
PMSL You sir are a joke. Well known members pointing out how little we know when we ask a question
And it is smoke and mirrors

But maybe to inspire some other people with some FACTS:
On a clear summer day, the sun gives off something close to 32,000-130,000 lux in the direct sun. This is relative where you are located on a longitudinal axis. The closer you are to the equator, the more direct sun your plants are getting. 5,000 lux is minimal for life of a ‘high energy” plant. 90,000 lux is considered the max Lux and anything more would damage the plant. 25,000-50,000 lux is optimal for fast growth.

WOW 25-50K is OPTIMAL.... and I am getting 18 with my 1 inferior lamp

@Dank Bongula : https://aquarium-digest.com/tag/lumenslux-requirements-of-a-cannabis-plant/
The maths on this hold up as well.
Yes my output in roughly in line with those maths

I am sorry to burts your bubble but light is not measured in watts... Energy is, ... the only time you would refer to sunlight in Watts is when you would convert it to solar electical energy ...and that wattage is dependent on the converter .....

Photosynthesis goes by lumen, not wattage

I am getting 18k at the moment, so I will get a second light in that brings me up to 36 Minimum
mount of luxPlant Growth
1000 – 5000 luxMin. necessary for life
10000 – 15000 luxMin. necessary for consistent but sparse growth
20000 – 25000 luxMin. necessary for robust growth
25000 – 30000 luxMax. Efficiency for Sub Tropical varieties
25000 – 50000 luxMax. Efficiency for Equatorial varieties


It still does not answer the question on light colours though....
Does the colour.= Amplitude and frequency (as someone wanted to sound important) have an effect on the growing stages?
Is there a Biologist on here who has still a functioning brain?
 
Lockedin

Lockedin

Well-Known Member
DaDutchy said:
120Leds at 10W is 1200W, Light is measured in Lumens ;)
These switches seem to be present on systems from $200 - $2000

Again anyone here with the biology or physics knowledge to make a coherent explanation?
Click to expand...
Yes, your light has the potential to run each diode at 10W --- with horrendous heat issues that would kill it in short order.
Just like my Viparspectra VA-1200 - which runs 260 at the wall, and will not flower a 4x4 (like the advertisement said) :wall:

Until recently I was running that Vipar AND four "300W" white boxes from Shenzhen (look familiar?) - actual watts range from 112 to 217(!)
That combo - 5 lights in total - would flower a 4x4 - but a GrowDaddy, Cobkits, HLG, or full-on DIY, etc. kit will blow them out of the water.)
I bought two 6 bar GrowDaddy panels recently (pic below). They walked me through everything short of how to strip a wire.
So far (week 5 of flower), my girls LOVE the new light, and my tent (a 4x8 now) runs a degree or two cooler even though I've added about 250W to the total power of the tent (a couple lights left for a veg room).
IF I was still in the 4x4, I would ditch the 2 red lights.
Note - wide bar spacing is intentional; additional bars to come.
20210424_221246.jpg

Edit - Just saw your question about the switches --- They are intended to mimic a blue-heavy, metal halide (MH) type of light for veg. The red is intended to mimic High Pressure Sodium (HPS) for bloom.
Most people with those switches (or dimmers like mine) find that both are required from about week 3 of veg (followed by more lights).
 
Lockedin

Lockedin

Well-Known Member
Original StinkyG said:
18000 lumens would equate to 150w hps by the way ! Look at what can be grown with 150w hps and you will have an idea of your light .
Click to expand...
Yeah - the whole "will replace XXX watts HPS" suckered me in.
The burps will grow great weed - mine is stonier than anything at the dispo - they just SUCK to look at, and coverage is uneven with hot & cold spots.
So far the bar set up is working well. I'm leaving the burps on one side of the tent to see if there is any diff. at the end of this grow.

@DaDutchy
A lot of us do that - I Swore I bought a 1200w light, right up until I read the label - 260-270W input.
All good - you can still grow some killer meds - just find some journals that match your setup and look at their outcome. My first two are in my sig; both under burples. Great harvests!
But, you can also watch me adding as I grow, so I know that I need more (almost there now - then I can do the other half of the tent! )
 
DaDutchy

DaDutchy

Member
Lockedin said:
Yes, your light has the potential to run each diode at 10W --- with horrendous heat issues that would kill it in short order.
Just like my Viparspectra VA-1200 - which runs 260 at the wall, and will not flower a 4x4 (like the advertisement said) :wall:

Until recently I was running that Vipar AND four "300W" white boxes from Shenzhen (look familiar?) - actual watts range from 112 to 217(!)
That combo - 5 lights in total - would flower a 4x4 - but a GrowDaddy, Cobkits, HLG, or full-on DIY, etc. kit will blow them out of the water.)
I bought two 6 bar GrowDaddy panels recently (pic below). They walked me through everything short of how to strip a wire.
So far (week 5 of flower), my girls LOVE the new light, and my tent (a 4x8 now) runs a degree or two cooler even though I've added about 250W to the total power of the tent (a couple lights left for a veg room).
IF I was still in the 4x4, I would ditch the 2 red lights.
Note - wide bar spacing is intentional; additional bars to come.
View attachment 4888962

Edit - Just saw your question about the switches --- They are intended to mimic a blue-heavy, metal halide (MH) type of light for veg. The red is intended to mimic High Pressure Sodium (HPS) for bloom.
Most people with those switches (or dimmers like mine) find that both are required from about week 3 of veg (followed by more lights).
Click to expand...
Thanks for that
Again I am only growing to make a bit of tincture.
Not looking to produce for selling though part of me would like to make some of the investment back......
So what I invest in the setup has to come out of what I "save" by not buying tincture via via

My tent is only a 120x60x150 (4x2x5) and being half the size 2 very familiar looking boxes, half yours, should suffice.... for now
I will look into the system you have there....

Running cost wise
You went from 4x 300 1200 Watt to 1500Wyoyr monthly running cost would have gone up by £25a month during Veg ;)
 
TheDifferenceX

TheDifferenceX

Well-Known Member
Run that "1200 watt" Chinese LED and then compare with a TRUE 1200 watt (at the wall) light.

Only then will you understand.
 
DaDutchy

DaDutchy

Member
Lockedin said:
Yes, your light has the potential to run each diode at 10W --- with horrendous heat issues that would kill it in short order.
Just like my Viparspectra VA-1200 - which runs 260 at the wall, and will not flower a 4x4 (like the advertisement said) :wall:

Until recently I was running that Vipar AND four "300W" white boxes from Shenzhen (look familiar?) - actual watts range from 112 to 217(!)
That combo - 5 lights in total - would flower a 4x4 - but a GrowDaddy, Cobkits, HLG, or full-on DIY, etc. kit will blow them out of the water.)
I bought two 6 bar GrowDaddy panels recently (pic below). They walked me through everything short of how to strip a wire.
So far (week 5 of flower), my girls LOVE the new light, and my tent (a 4x8 now) runs a degree or two cooler even though I've added about 250W to the total power of the tent (a couple lights left for a veg room).
IF I was still in the 4x4, I would ditch the 2 red lights.
Note - wide bar spacing is intentional; additional bars to come.
View attachment 4888962

Edit - Just saw your question about the switches --- They are intended to mimic a blue-heavy, metal halide (MH) type of light for veg. The red is intended to mimic High Pressure Sodium (HPS) for bloom.
Most people with those switches (or dimmers like mine) find that both are required from about week 3 of veg (followed by more lights).
Click to expand...
Thanks for that
Again I am only growing to make a bit of tincture.
Not looking to produce for selling though part of me would like to make some of the investment back......
So what I invest in the setup has to come out of what I "save" by not buying tincture via via

My tent is only a 120x60x150 (4x2x5) and being half the size 2 very familiar looking boxes, half yours, should suffice.... for now
I will look into the system you have there....

Running cost wise
You went from 4x 300 1200 Watt to 1500Wyoyr monthly running cost would have gone up by £25a month during Veg ;)
Lockedin said:
Yeah - the whole "will replace XXX watts HPS" suckered me in.
The burps will grow great weed - mine is stonier than anything at the dispo - they just SUCK to look at, and coverage is uneven with hot & cold spots.
So far the bar set up is working well. I'm leaving the burps on one side of the tent to see if there is any diff. at the end of this grow.

@DaDutchy
A lot of us do that - I Swore I bought a 1200w light, right up until I read the label - 260-270W input.
All good - you can still grow some killer meds - just find some journals that match your setup and look at their outcome. My first two are in my sig; both under burples. Great harvests!
But, you can also watch me adding as I grow, so I know that I need more (almost there now - then I can do the other half of the tent! )
Click to expand...
I know it is a trade off and I am only new to this some of the terminology *burps?) ...
But there is a science bit behind it too
Yes I am underlighting at the moment and that will be resolved tomorrow

I had a look at the 6 bar from GoDaddy and that is right out of my price range for now (Though 3 bar should be enough)

@Lockedin i presume that "blurp"of GD has the same issues as the chinese stuff or are we definitely talking better quality?

And then there is the 2 expences:
Buying and running
The once off cost of buying... well I either do or dont... its the running cost I am trying to keep down with a bit of research

We are ex smokers so this is tincture and maybe some cookies & butter..... Having heard what an ounce costs ... 2 ounces would get me my investments back in bud
 
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