1st Stealth CFL Hydroponic Grow

I am chronicling my first hydroponic stealth grow. Stealth and security were primary drivers. I considered several locations throughout my house to build an enclosed box for a personal grow.


One day, a neighbor was over visiting. We were sitting on the back porch smoking a couple Rocky Patel's when the perfect stealth box idea hit me. In fact, it was right in front of us both, had been for a couple years, but yet no one ever paid any attention to it, let alone go and open it up and play with it. For these reasons, I knew I had the perfect "skin" to construct my stealth grow box.


I have a stainless charbroil gas grill that I had retired for a good ole weber charcoal grill. I gutted the inside of the grill, opening up the space to build the flowering chamber. Right now, I am using it for both Vegging and Flowering on my first run. The bottom front doors are used to access the grow room, while the grill cover accesses the timers, thermostat, and other controls that automate the system.


GrowBox Specs


DIY Enclosed GrowBox Dimensions: 28"W x 18"D x 42"T
Total Grow Area: approximately 5sq/ft (the reservoir takes up some space)
Grow Lights: T5 & CFL
- (13) CFL 23w <1450 Lumens 6500k><1600 Lumens 2700k> canopy lighting
- (2) T5 14w <3000k - lumens unknown> side lighting
- (2) CFL 65w <3900 Lumens 2700k> canopy lighting
- (1) CFL UVB 23w 10% (using this during flowering to increase trichome production)
- Flowering Total Actual Wattage: 457w - <UVB not counted>
- Flowering Lumens: 28,600
(Veg Specs: 92w / 5800 Lumens per plant. Will go into this more later on, as this wont be the veg specs once my seeds arrive. I have 1 bag seed currently sprouted and losing its cotyledon today. I mounted a light fixture to a pulley system to raise/lower the lights, while in veg stage.
- Flowering 5 Plants: 91.4 watts and 5,720 lumens per plant
Compared to a HPS bulb, I am getting half the lumen output, so I've compensated by getting the wattage as close to 100w per plant. I will probably add additional lighting to the side canopy, but that's to be decided when the time comes. The 2 T5 lights are mounted virtically on the back wall, in each corner.


After flipping on (13) 23w 6500k CFLs, I learned the hard way that they do produce enough heat, in a small sealed space, to kill plants - had 6 bagseed sprouts die overnight. Anyhow, I added ventilation and solved the heat problems. CFLs do produce heat, so ventilation is a must, or it feels like a tanning bed inside of an oven, and far exceeds the 75F temp average plants prefer.


- 1 Intake Fan: CPU Fan - probably 23 CFM
- 2 Exhaust Fans: CPU Fan - each probably 23 CFM = appx 40 CFM Outake - 2:1 creating negative airflow
- DIY Carbon Filter: could reduce outtake by as much as 10 CFM, which is why I use 2 fans pulling on each end to keep the air pressure from decreasing too much. Carbon filter is a DIY plastic container I cut up to allow good airflow, while still remaining rigid enough to structure the carbon wrapped around the outside. I will use a carbon filter from either Lowes of PetsMart. I have not tested it yet, so more on the filter later.
- 1 Internal Fan: 3 speed fan for blowing on the canopy, mounted in the top left hand side of container
- Surge Protector with 135 minutes battery powered backup <just the pumps, fans, and temp controls would run off this backup, as the lights would drain the battery too quickly. From past experiences, we have a power outrage once every 3 months. Typically, power is restored quickly, but I've seen it take a couple hours. The backup power strip was bought at Office Depot and simply gives me peace of mind when I am away.


A Digital timer and thermostat control the light cycle and room temperature - taken at the canopy: sensor mounted just above the trellis. The thermostat will be used this winter to help keep the inside growing Enviroment stable. Keep in mind the grill is now stored inside my outdoor man cave, so temperature fluctutstions outside the box wont be Extreme, as i can hear and cool the area. Temperatures are good right now so ive got the intake and outtake fans running constantly to replace the air content 3 times per minute. When the temperatures drop, I will seal the chamber and pump CO2, and the only time the fans will turn on will be too regulate temperatures to a stable 75F. I anticipate a cycling to occur once every hour, while the lights are on.Typical daytime temps during the winter is in the 50s, nighttime rarely exceeds freezing. When it does, I will use propane heaters to warm the room - and circulate some fresh CO2 to the plants.


also, I am using a 300w aquarium heater inside the reservoir tank. I want the reservoir temps to be between 62-65F. I believe that by regulating the temperatures inside the box via the heat the CFLs release during the winter months will keep the reservoir from going outside of the 65F temp range.


Once temperatures drop, I will let the heat from the CFLs warm the temperature inside the box, so I can close the system and pump CO2. I will generate CO2 from fermenting yeast (I'm a home brewer so I might as well use the CO2. I only anticipate using CO2 supplementation during grow weeks 4-7. Once again, wht I actually end up doing will depend on the outdoor temps.


DIY Hybrid Hydroponic Setup: DWC & Drip System <possibly moving to Aeroponics>


The grow chamber is a plastic storage container covered in metal duct tape to prevent light penetration. Five 3" net pots adheres to the 1 plant per square foot rule for scrog, during flowering. Currently I am running a DWC & Drip method. The air pump fits 20 gallon tanks so it easily handles the 5 gallons currently in the reservoir, pumping O2 to two 6" stones pumping continuously. Also, I am using a small pond pump and drip feeders.


I am considering removing the drip system and replacing with a Aeroponic & DWC system, as I've noticed algae build up on the dripped heads(added Hydrogen Peroxide to the nute solution last night so it might clear it) Also, clogging was a concern, so I'm adding a 4 port manifold to help filter the nutes prior to it getting in the nozzle.


The other reason I'm considering moving to aeroponics is to help regulate drying the roots during the flower stage. This method would allow for 1/3rd of the root mass to be in the DWC at all times, with the other 2/3rds sprayed, on a timer set for something like 30 minutes on/off during lights on. Either way, it could provide better options of feeding the plants than the current setup.


i chose to use a 2 system method as a backup if one of the systems were to fail. Since my time is limited, the grow system has to be able to sustain itself for 3-4 days without me attending to it. If one of the pumps goes out, the other will sustain the plants till I can resolve the issue.


Feminized Seeds ordered yesterday from Attitude Seeds


1. Super Lemon Haze
2. Strawberry Blue
3. Bubba Kush
4. White Widow
5. Jack Herer
6. Pineapple Express
7. Liberty Haze
8. Blue Grape Dream
9. Chernobyl
10. OG Kush
11. Cannalope Kush


Currently have 1 unknown bag seed in its 2nd week from germination. 50/50 on it being a female. I'm not really concerned with the outcome of this plant as much as I will be with my new seeds. But hey, if it produces then its icing on the cale. Since I will only flower 5 at a time, I will use a separate veg and clone room. My goal is to rotate crops every 10-12 weeks with clones veg'd to 12 inches. Once I find the strain I want to keep for life, I will take the mother and plant it in soil to ttransplant to my outdoor garden during the spring/summer.


Based on my current consumption, I consume approximately 48 grams per month. My grow schedule will allow me to produce 4 annual harvests. Each harvest needs to produce 150 grams from 5 plants. I beleive 30 grams per plant is a little on the high side, so I will use the scraps from harvest to create canna buddar in order to compensate. My goal is to harvest a minimum of 20 grams per plant, per harvest. As I am able to take clones from strong plants, I believe it will increase my harvest yield, but that is several months away.


Nutrients


I decided to find products locally to use for the nute solution, for now. I am not ph testing my water yet. I leave it out for 24 hours or use a solution for fish to elminate the cholorine from the water.


For Veg, I will use the following at half recommended strength (note: I have started off at 1/5th of the half recommended strength now that the cotyls are falling off. I will slowly increase the strength over the next week and a half. I plan on adding a micro-nutrient additive in the next week or so. For my seeds and future clones, I will use a very small amount of miracle grow, superthrive, a root formula, and hydrogen peroxide in the mostly water solutution. After about 2 weeks from germinating, I will go to the nute solution described above.


1. Miracle Grow Patio
2. Fish Emulsion 5-1-1
3. Epsom Salt
4. Hydrogen Peroxide 3%
5. SuperThrive


For Bloom: I will purchase hydroponic nutes such as FoxFarm. I plan on using Liquid Bloom and a few other additives during the flowering stage. I will create a section later on when I get to that point.


I expect my seeds to come in next week, so I look forward to deciding which strains are going first.


I will post some pics of my setup later on this week, as well as a few pics of the unknown seedling.

Couple updates to the bagseed and growbox. The unknown bagseed suffered a little heat stress and nute burn on one of the leaves that was touching the drip feeder. I drained 3/4ths of the reservoir and added tap water that had sat out 24 hours to dilute the solution. Yesterday, I drained another 1/3rd and replaced with plain h2o. Water was left out for 24 hours, but was not ph'd. I have ordered a meter, along with other supplies I couldn't find in my hometown, so once everything gets in I will be able to optimize every process with growing my seeds. The seedling has responded well with flushing the solution in stages.


Heat is still an issue. I raised my hood to 5 inches and the seedling appears to appreciate this as it recovers. I am making modifications to my air circulation system, both inside and out. Since my canopy lights are fixed to the top of the growbox, I will be enclosing these lights with plexiglass and running 2 80mm pc fans for exhaust with passive intake drilled on the opposite end of the light box.


By enclosing my light box, containing approximately 400 watts of light and heat, I anticipate being able to control my grow chamber's temp and humidity more precisely throughout the year, especially during the winter and summer temp extreme's. The light box's exhaust fans will run at max power continuously. Right now, Im using 2 80mm pc fans, pulling somewhere around 35 CFM each. I haven't measured the exact dimensions of the light chamber, but I don't see any reason why these 2 fans can't exhaust the heat off from about 18 CFL's. The 6500k put off a lot of heat and from what I understand, the 2700k's will put off even more.


The grow chamber will run on a digital thermometer operating an intake and exhaust fans. Intake is an 80mm pc fan, with a 35 CFM rating. I will be building an air intake cover to keep bugs, light, and outside air out. Exhaust fan will have to be purchased. Since this fan will be pulling through my carbon filter and I am exploring a 4" inline fan pulling around 140+ CFM. Vibration and sound is not a concern, as I will mount the fan and filter via bungie cords inside the sealed and insulated chamber.


When these fans are not being run, the chamber will be sealed with co2 pumped in. Chamber temp of 75F is sought when exhaust fans are circulating fresh air. A 10 degree increase in room temp will occur when Im pumping co2 and fans are shut off.


The system is designed to intake outside air directly into the grow chamber during the spring/summer. Fall and winter will not always allow me to pull the cold air across my plants in the grow chamber, so I am now building an air intake through the light chamber to exhaust warm fresh air at the bottom of the grow chamber. By pulling the air into the grow chamber via the heat produced in the vented light chamber, I can warm the grow chamber much like a home heating system would.


Temperature Zone Setting:


zone 1 - cool grow chamber - maintain 75F
` Chamber Fans: Intake & Exhaust
zone 2 - heat grow chamber - maintain 75F
- Light Chamber-to-Grow Chamber Fan
- Exhaust Fan will remain off - passive exhaust during room heating.
- process requires co2
zone 3 - Light Chamber-to-Grow Chamber Fan engages, opening duct and releasing heat pumped to the bottom of the grow chamber via pvc and/or 4" flexi duct.
- Chamber Exhaust will engage.
- this method provides fresh air continuously if we are not engaging co2
- some outside air will be passively pulled from the higher CFM exhaust fan. This process will be tweaked later, but for now, I am assuming this "zone" function will be used more than co2 pumping


Keep in mind I havent tested this zone theory with a digital thermometer, especially a standard model that might not provide any zone or variance control. I will explore this later route over the weekend to find a thermostat that can provide automation features like the ones mentioned above.


My hope is that this method of sealing the light chamber to reduce the heat buildup Im currently experiencing will also serve as a method to heat the insulated grow chamber when it gets cold outside. I know that I will have to provide external A/C next summer, possibly external heat this winter too. Cross that bridge when/if it comes.




Heat Venting Assembly:


Inside the Light Chamber, on the same side as the exhaust vents, I will build a heat intake box with a 80mm high speed pc fan, 60CFM. The fan will be controlled by the thermostat and only engage to pull hot fresh air and push it down the pvc tubing I will run down the back corner where it will be evenly dispersed around the bottom of the plants.


Once the desired temp of 75F is reached, the heat fan will shutoff, thereby resealing an air duct manifold through the negative air pressure created by the 2 exhaust fans, blowing hot air out of the box. Keep in mind that the air intake in the light chamber is passive, so once the heating fan is shutoff, negative air pressure will cause the manifold to shut so we aren't accidently heating our plants next summer.


I just came up with these plans last night, so if I can remember, I will snap some pics of me putting this together. I ordered supplies I couldnt find locally, so Im waiting on it to arrive so I can finish up the main construction on the flowering box (which is currenly being used as a seedling/veg room). I will be using another piece of furniture for a mother/cloning and veg room.


*Revisions:
- I am going with 6 plants in 3" net pots for flowering chamber. Scrog method will be applied. Anticipating 21g or 3/4 of a ounce per plant
- Anticipating growing 0.23 grams per watt for first grow. This is expected to have each plant produce 21 grams for a 6 plant total of 126.5 grams per harvest - 6 harvests potential per year = 759 potential grams per year / 27 ounces per year.
- Anticipating appx. 550 actual watts & 34,000 lumens. From what Ive studied, I dont think we can get higher than 0.5g/w using CFL's, as those that have practiced this trade for a long time have the ability to get nearly 1g/w from their grow, and more than likely they're pushing a lot more power and lumens. Not trying to debate this topic, just projecting yield potential without any historical data to go off of. If I am able to get 0.5g/w, I would be more than happy.
- I will place the 26w UVB CFL Lamp inside the grow chamber, because from what I understand Plexiglass could reduce the UV rays. Since I will only be using the UVB lamp for a few weeks during flowering, I will fix the light at the top of the chamber. I am not worried about the plant growing into it because I wont be running the lamp by the time the plant gets anywhere near it.
- I anticipate using the UVB lamp for 6 hours per day, during the middle part of the lights on cycle. I will slowly introduce the plants to the light for the first 7 days, by starting out with it running for 2 hours, then increasing accordingly to how the plants respond. More than likely, I will only run the UVB lamp during flowering weeks 1-4. Weeks 5 & 6, should see maturity, with 7 & 8 being the flush period prior to harvest. I believe it will all boil down to the strain and its growing tendencies, so for now Im staying general on the approach.
- Since winter months are approaching, I will run the lights at night in order to keep the box warmer than the outside temperatures by at least 20 degrees, if needed. Since I am going to use the UVB 26w CFL inside the chamber, it should provide plenty of heat, that might even have to be vented twice an hour.
- In addition to the (2) 3000k T5 lamps and 2700k CFL's, I will mix in some 6500k cool CFLs into the mix for flowering. This method is expected to help reduce plant stretch. Likewise, I am using a mix of the 3000k T5's & 6500k CFLs when vegging.
- Since Im venting the sealed light chamber separately from the grow chamber, I expect to be able to run a higher amount of watts than I would be able to achieve in the same small space. Plus, since my lights are fixed to the top of the box, the plants will be able to touch the plexiglass, whereas they couldnt be within 2 inches of the top lights if it werent covered. Also, another major consideration of sealing the light and having them fixed is that access to the top of the grow space wont be possible once the plants are trained into the trellis. By letting them grow virtically as much as they want, and not having to worry about them burning is a major plus for me.


If I havent mentioned the grow space specs, here they are.


Total Internal Grow Chamber Measurements: 28"w x 18"d x 34" - Light Box consumes 8" of the total 42" internal box height.
Total Grow Chamber Square Feet: 9.786 sq/ft - ROUNDING TO 8 sq/ft - <see below for explanation>
Meters Cubed: 0.277m3 - If anyone knows how to take this measurement and apply it to the grow specs of meters squared, I would appreciate it.
Plant Height Space: 27.5"
Veg Height: 12"
Harvest Height: 2ft or 24"


Since I have not built the final light box, I may allocate an inch or 2 additional to it, so that I can increase the amount of space between the bulbs and the plexiglass. I do not want the glass to heat because I would prefer the top colas to be able to slightly start bending into the glass by harvest. If it doesnt get that tall, kudos.


Im going to deduce 2.5 sq/ft from 9.876 total sq footage for reservoir space, fan space, and to keep expectations low until actual numbers come in. Also, to make it simple, im calling it a flat 7 sq/ft of growing space. Scrog methods would allow me to grow 1 per sq/ft, or 7 total. Ive decided to go with 6 containers for a few reasons: 1) allow plenty of room for rootball growth since Im decreasing the tank depth to provide more virticle growth given my box height restrictions. Since Im not using a deep tank to allow the roots to hang or grow virtically, my roots will have to adjust by growing out. The tupperware reservoir is about 2 ft wide, by 15" long, by 6.5" deep. Total area comes out to be around 2.5 sq/ft.


Since the reservoir had to be modified, I am going to install sprayers and drip lines, and use a modified DWC. I will be using an external tank to pump the water into the chamber reservoir, where it will collect for only a few inches, with 2 dedicated airpumps, one for inside, the other for the external solution. Side note, I will be heating the water in the external heater and pumping warm water in. 63-65F is preferred for the chamber reservoir. Therefore, the water on the external reservoir will be heated 1-2 degrees warmer, so as it sits in the reservoir it only slightly cools. I will mount a drain line a few inches above the bottom of the tank to serve as a drain off as new water/nutes are continuously pumped into the system. More I think about it, I would just prefer to use another that I can adjust the flowrate for the return. Will revisit this later on.


Also, I like this idea because I can switch the pump off and dry out the roots during flowering. It provides redundancy if one pump goes out. So if the water pump goes out, the air pump and shallow reservoir will keep the plant stable until i can check in. Since Im using an airpump inside the chamber reservoir and the external reservoir, if either one were to go out, the other will more than compensate. If the power goes out, only 1 of the airpumps will be connected to the backup power source.


I'll be adding pics of the setup beginning this weekend. I am still anticipating on getting my seeds in this upcoming week, so I look forward to having my grow area finished, tested, and ready to go.

To be honest I got half way through your second post realized there were no pictures still and stopped reading. It all sounds very exciting and I wish you the best but I hope you can understand noone signed up for this website to read essays!

Hope your grow goes well. Will sub when you begin some weekly (picture guided!) updates. Look forward to seeing your SCROG.

P.S - I'm not sure about everyone but I know there's quite a few of us who would've enjoyed seeing the transformation of your grow space.. So I hope the fact that you arent completed isn't the reason you haven't started posting some pictures! Would've made the whole experience that much better seeing you start from scratch bro.

^^^What he said...
Plus... just because you've ordered seeds doesn't mean you're going to get them.
I tried Attitude twice and they never arrived.