Search results

It’s been a while since I posted. Just thought I’d share.

Indeed you did. I think we all learned that lesson at one point or another. Those fertilizer charts are developed using optimum perfect growing conditions with maximum lighting and then the sales and marketing department add 30% to boost sales. You really should get an EC and pH meter. It will...

Burnt and nutrient lock out! Post some pics under natural light. Just to clarify, you’re giving a Tablespoon (Tbsp) of Grow, a Tbsp of micros, a Tbsp of Bloom, and a Tbsp of Tigerbloom And a Tbsp of Calmagic? What is the EC of the fertilizer solution? I’m guessing 3 plus. According to my...

I’d guess thrip too, as jjgrow420 said.

Start by bringing your temperature up to 78-80. They look like then need fertilizer. My experience with FFOF soil is it runs out of pH buffer around week 7-8 and then the pH drops off a cliff. With FFOF you can get away without pHing your fert solution early on but it’s not good practice...

Roger that. Thanks, appreciate the input.

Rather than daily inputs, you might want to consider using a WiFi temp and rh data recorder. There are a lot of them out there that download to any device. I use SensorPush

I was just reading the Seedmans blog about making and using lactobacillus to increase terpenes. Has anyone tried this? https://blog.seedsman.com/improve-terpene-production-with-this-recipe/

There is a separate VPD chart for flower and bloom. Are you using the bloom chart. Mine bloom chart shows 1.5-1.6 VPD for 78F and 44%rh. Just at the edge of the acceptable green zone. fYI my chart is set for 1.5 degrees F for leaf temp differential. LEDs.

What are your temperatures?

I use a 12/12 schedule and add far red light end of day (EOD) for 5 minutes pre and post lights out to jump start the sleep cycle. In my experience, 12/12 with far red EOD is shortening the flowering cycle at the expense of some yield. For typical 9-10 week strains probably not worth the yield...

Truly

If you’re going to go by trichome color you have to check the ones on the calyxs not the sugar leaves. And so you have to wait for them to swell up in order to check them. She is going to put on a lot more weight in the next 2-3 weeks.

You need around 30-35 actual watt of high quality LEDs per square foot for flowering. So that light should be good for flowering 10-12 square feet.

Roll it up in baggy and drop in random places, play grounds, school yards, park benches.

Hey thanks for your advertising dollars that keep us all running, but you do know that P stands for phosphorus not Potassium (K) right?

Greetings from CT shoreline. Well done for your first go.

Interesting. What ratio of NH4 to NO3 are you using? I’d be worried about the other cations K, Ca and Mg uptake with high amounts of NH4.

I am truly sorry to you and Brazy if my comment above made you angry. It wasn’t meant to make fun or criticize. I was simply answering the question in the original post. “when can I start giving them veg type light output?” Seedling can take a lot more light than we give them credit for...

You should be checking the trichcomes on the calyx not the sugar leaves.