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Its been posted many times. They get the lowest voltage bin. I made a thread elsewhere explaining binning and how low voltage bins effect efficiency. Pm me if you want a link.

Do you ever actually know the answers to questions you answer, or just have a random guess. Dont wire different spectrums in parallel @M0e b1unt5 Unless you can check that all the FV are the same, but i doubt they will be.

Yes they do.

The specified output is never right, and the test report can be off too "CH1： 4.45A ~ 8.9A I/P： 230 VAC I/P： 115 VAC O/P：FULL LOAD Ta：25℃ 4.327 4.324 A~ A~ 9.785 9.783 A/ 230 VAC A/ 115 VAC" 10amp i would rate that driver at just to be on the safe side. Either turn the driver down to 8amp...

@TEKNIK Id like to see what this machine you talk of, can do. Where you located? PM?

Why people use the LRS drivers for our use is beyond my understanding. Splash one of them and its dead. LPC driver for that board is 10, LPF is 18, ELG is 22 even a HLG-60h is only 27.

I agree with certain forms, like cobs and strips. But look at the success of the quantum boards, the simplicity of them is part key to the success.

"better" is quite vague. Yes cmh will outperform 80% of the lights on the market and to buy a light at the same price per PPF, isnt going to be easy. But DIY kits will outperform cmh in both quality and yield and are often cheaper on a pricer per PPF bases.

Earthing the DC side of a driver is pointless, the AC is earthed via input. The AC side is also isolated from the DC side. I still do it as most folk just don't understand it.

Its not thats the data is inaccurate, its just how its being presented. A lot of what hes saying has substance but the way he forces it down the throat, no lube, just take that fucking info and force it right down there. I don't like that way of presenting data. Hes obviously working, or paid...

Some good info in that. Some absolute bollocks too.

I like these. Not everybody wants to drill a load of metal and do all the wiring. Having a light engine predone with the 2020 mounts and wiring is something ive been working on myself for a long time. Its far from a bit of angle bar and some thermal tape. Im sure this data will be provided. :)

They run from half the rated voltage. Any led with a FV of 27-54V would work on that driver. 128 watts is bang on what it should be at. not the more efficient way but the savings in cost buying a new driver, outweighs a percent in system efficiency.

Shouldn't do that. Can you screen shot it please.

Now you're giving me advise?:wall: You're always giving advised based off assumptions or what youve red. I actually own and have done extensive testing on every samsung strip on the market. I know what im doing.

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en?keywords=SL-B8V4N90LAWW https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en?keywords=hlg-480h-48a The rest is custom manufactured

Not every samsung led on a board, or strip. Is called a quantum board.

lol i thought you were an expert @Airwalker16 Each strip runs at 45.5v 1.34a - 1.37a ( all meanwells are not the same) . 2 strips per heatsink wired in parallel end to end, then the 4 strings connected in parallel to the driver. Its 118cm x 90cm in size. Its 527w on startup.

Do you ever read the posts you are replying too?

Im not sure whats hard to understand about 8 L09 strips at 1.34a on a hlg-480H-48a