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Blood meal simply isn't necessary, I've never used it. The alfalfa and neem meals are good sources of nitrogen, and when I am doing transplants with larger plants I put seabird guano into one of the soil layers. I also continue to use Alaskan fish fertilizer on occasion to add some additional...

Base mix: 50% Sunshine Adv. Mix #4 - e.g. 4 gallons ~25% Coco coir - e.g. 2 gallons ~25% compost or castings - e.g. 2 gallons Calcitic/dolomitic lime - Half cup (~8 tbsp) Eggshell meal - 4 tbsp Use the best quality compost or earthworm castings you...

It looks like the taproot broke away... seedlings aren't going to grow without cotyledons. BTW you can germinate seeds directly in potting mix.

Most coir these days comes pre-rinsed.

Those look mostly cloudy to me but those aren't the clearest pics. It is definitely close. It's really a matter of personal preference too though. Brand new calyxes wont be swollen.

What do you mean like... by punished by your parents or something? :lol:

You're looking for mostly cloudy and some amber trichomes, or really more/less amber trichomes depending on your tastes. The further along you let it (more amber heads) the more sedating the stone will be, in general. Some consider additional factors, i.e. more hairs that have turned brownish...

I always veg for 24 hours. If I was doing more than 600 watts of HID for veg I would probably do 20/4 to save a bit of energy/costs. With 20-24 hours you really do get nice compact growth though, other factors permitting. Less lighting = more stretch, less growth early on.

Yeah, with bagged products under most circumstances more lime is necessary. That way the potting mix will resist any sudden fluctuation in pH, with no need for adjusting water/fertigation solutions. Any pH between 6-7 is fine in soil and lime is very forgiving.

Distilled water isn't great for plants, it is absolutely devoid of minerals. And the pH of it still wouldn't be enough to bring your soil pH up enough. Plus that could get expensive depending how many plants you're growing. Please, I am begging you, use your tap water as is and check the...

omg why does everyone misread me? I never said soil was easier, even if I personally think it is. I said it's easy to grow in soil without getting pests. And yes, IPM definitely helps prevent spider mites and other pests... that would be the very point of it. It entails spraying your plants...

Yeah that will work fine. You want to use a slightly heaping tablespoon per gallon of mix, especially if you're going to use rain water which is practically devoid of dissolved minerals.

I'm not sure there is a difference really. They just started using the Resilience, which is a silicon supplement AFAIK. Unless they decided to split the product into two variants. I haven't seen new batches with the Resilience at any of my local grow shops yet. BTW you can make SAM#4 even...

It's just as easy to grow in soil and never see a pest either. It's called system acquired resistance. Then of course there's always IPM. In my "soil" I have live predators, beneficial mites that eat other mites, fungus gnats and various other pests. Spider mites would not survive in my soil.

Most bagged potting soil contains absolutely no "soil" or dirt whatsoever. Ocean Forest is actually one of the only well-known brands on the market that technically does because it contains sandy loam. Even if the manufacturing process is as controlled as can be, potting soil needs to be bagged...

I'm just saying man, you grew a plant in soil and it got spider mites so soil must = spider mites = is twisted logic. You don't know where the mites came from regardless of the location or floor of your house. Spider mites can literally blow in your house through the screen of an open window. I...

And I haven't had sex since I knocked a girl up. What's your point? Spider mite eggs can come from any person or thing large enough to carry them, even house flies potentially. I'm sure they can climb stairs too, like ants, though it might take them a while. You're probably more likely to carry...

Yeah it's real easy actually, first you cut off the top third or whatever buds have matured, then you wait a week or two and chop what remains. Not trying to sound like a dick but it really is pretty straightforward, I don't even think you'll find an expanded explanation.

If there's only a few I'd say a pyrethrin bomb is unnecessary (until after harvest). Just get on top of them with something and apply multiple times, about every 5 days to get any newly hatched eggs. If you ARE going to use a bomb, you need to keep some distance between it and the plants. In...

I'm going to make this real easy for you: disregard what everyone else is telling you. Stop using pH down. Your tap water is 7.8 because it is hard water; it has stuff like calcium and magnesium bicarbonate dissolved in it already. Water in your tap water as is, WITH NO PH DOWN. Then check your...